• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.787-798
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• 2004

This research was designed to compare clothing fabric images between on- and off-line by fabric types and its characteristics. 125 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the fabric image of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. Frequency, x2-test, t-test, and Pearson correlation were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The advantage of on-line shopping includes low price and purchasing convenience, etc. On-line shoppers mostly purchase clothing items, such as T-shirt and slacks. In most cases, texture of fabrics provides a main cause for the shoppers' discontentment with internet shopping. 2. The results of t-test for the difference of the evaluation score show that plain or pile weave and highly thick or thin fabrics-for example, Organdy, Corduroy, Nylon Taffeta, Plush, etc.-have a large difference between on-and off-line image. On the other hand, medium-thick twill weave-for example, Tweed, Flannel, etc.-or patterned weave-Chiffon, Dobby fabric, etc.-shows a small difference. 3. The results of correlation of the evaluation score indicate that wool twill fabrics like Tweed, Saxony, and Polafleece show a high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. In texture preference, no correlation exists between on-line and off-line. 4. With an analysis on fabric image evaluation by fabric characteristics, smooth, shiny pink Satin was found the most positively-evaluated item in all evaluation fields except in pattern preference and individuality. On the other hand, thick olive green Corduroy was evaluated most negatively in the fields of elegance, luxury, and feminine. 5. When compared with real ones, thin fabrics provide a different on-line fabric image. For example, Nylon Taffeta and Organdy were evaluated positively on-line because of luster and pastel tone color. However, lusterless uneven cotton Seersucker was evaluated negatively. 6. Real fabrics preference is more negative than on-line ones. In addition, patterned or unique fabrics display a high agreement between the two kinds of images.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2000

In this study, the five harness satins are weaved in rapier loom and air-jet loom each using the pure wool Nm 2/72, also the physical characteristics of fabrics that are produced in these weaving machinery in same condition are measured by using the KES-FB system. The results of analysis and comparison on each fabric are presented by classifying items, that is to say, the tensile, bending properties. The results we as follows ; The extensibility of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is larger than that by air-jet loom. The variation of bending property of grey fabric woven by rapier in the weft direction is more irregular than that by air-jet loom. However, these properties are similar both rapier and air jet fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.213-221
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• 2009

This study provides the optimum papain treatment method and its effect on wool/polyester blend fabrics. The enzymatic treatment condition is optimized depending on its pH level, temperature, concentration of enzyme, treatment time and concentration of activators. The characteristics of samples treated with the papain are measured using weight loss, tensile strength, whiteness, WCA, dyeing property and surface micrographs. The results are described as follows: According to measuring weight loss, tensile strength and whiteness, a pH level of 7.5, $70^{\circ}C$, 10% papain(o.w.f.) and 60minutes of treatment time are optimized for papain treatment. L-cysteine and sodium sulfite are able to activate the papain. The optimum concentrations of them are 10mM and 50mM respectively. The WCA of fabrics is decreased since papain treatment makes wool/polyester blend fabrics more hydrophilic. Scouring with papain treatment improves whiteness and dyeing property of fabrics. The dyeing property of papain-treated fabrics is enhanced simply by a single step dyeing process using a basic dye. The surface of wool treated with papain in the presence of L-cysteine shows to be descaled. The surface of wool fibers in the presence of sodium sulfite, however, shows it is hydrolyzed evenly instead of being descaled. The surface of papain treated polyester fibers shows cracks and voids.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.519-528
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• 2017

Mobile shoppers have encountered frequent color mismatch in the products that they have purchased, as they can only rely on their sense of sight. Therefore, fabric color and color difference recognized by smartphone display during mobile shopping were studied using instrument analysis method. It aimed to gather precise information on actual fabric color understanding of the mobile shoppers purchasing textile products. Three smartphones were selected from LG, Samsung, and Apple companies, and four colors were researched (red, yellow, green and blue) to both polyester and wool test fabrics for color analysis though color measuring instruments. The results from the spectrophotometer indicated that the color coordinate location of smartphone fabric color is similarly distributed regardless of the type of fabric. The Samsung smartphone displays a relatively high color chroma (especially on red-colored fabric) regardless of the type of fabric due to a high color reproduction range. In contrast, the LG smartphone, which has high color temperature, displays high color chroma on the blue colored fabric with a significant color mismatch between the actual fabric color and smartphone fabric color. From the results of this study, issues related to mobile shopping can be addressed through an analysis of the products sold, the smartphone's color representation, and user understanding.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.43-49
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• 1987

To study the visual evaluation on the effect of ruffle's gather, the aesthetic evaluation on the gather's measurements and the image evaluation were performed. Evaluated fabrics were cotton, wool ani synthetic fiber, and 3 kinds of thickness for each fabric were selected. In order to seek for aesthetic gather's measurements, we performed the sensory test by the Rank Method on 5 kinds of gather's measurements(I.5 times, 1. 8times, 2times, 2.5 times, 3 times). For the image evaluation on the effect of the gather, we performed the sensory test by the Semantic Differential Method on the gather's measurements were got high score in the sensory test of the gather's measurements and analyzed by means of a Factor Analysis. The results were as follows. 1. Except 2 times of fabric $A_1$(thin cotton), the aesthetic gather's measurements of the ruffle were evaluted 2.5 times in cotton and synthetic fiber, and 2 times in wool. Generally the aesthetic gather's measurements of the ruffle were 2$\~$2.5 times. 2. The image characteristics of the ruffle were established the characteristics of the fabrics as factor 1, the characteristics of the atomosphere as factor 2 and the characteristics of the drape as factor 3. Therefore, we must consider the characteristics of the fabric, the atomosphere and the drape of the ruffle in production of the ruffle.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권7호
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• pp.1030-1039
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• 1999

The effect of surfactant mixture 9on detergency and soil redeposition in a dry-cleaning system was investigated employing Aerosol OT as an anionic surfactant and Span 80 as a nonionic surfactant. The effect of charge system on soil deposition was also investigated in order to determine the optimum condition at which soil redeposition is minimum,. Soil deposition instead of soil redeposition on cotton, polyester and wool fabrics was measured employing petroleum solvent and perchloroethylene as organic solvents. The results were as follows. 1. Surface tension or interfacial tension was not changed by the addition of any surfactant or surfactant mixtures. In petroleum solvent however interfacial tension between solrent and water decreased when surfactants were added and increased when surfactants were mixed,. 2. The maximum amount of water solubilization increased as the mole fraction of Aerosol OT increased and more water was solubilized in petroleum solvent than in perchloroethylene. 3. The detergency of cotton was greater and the soil deposition rate was lower in Span 80 solution than in Aerosol OT solution. The soil deposition on cotton fabric decreased when water was solubilized in Aersol OT solution 4. The detergency and soil deposition rate of polyester fabric did not change by the surfactant type of the addition of surfactant mixture and soil deposition rate increased bywater solubilization. 5. Soil deposition on wool fabric was very high when Arosol OT was employed in perchloroethylene and the soil deposition did not change greatly by water solubilization.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.91-108
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• 2017

Interests in 3D virtual clothing technology and its application in online shopping malls are increasing with the advent of the Fourth Industrial Revolution. Most studies on 3D virtual clothing, however, are focused on observing drapes or ease of virtual clothing depending on fabric properties of representative clothing items. Therefore, the purpose of this study is: first, to determine if current input of typical material characteristics in 3D CLO are sufficient to formulate virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes; second, to determine if subjective appearance evaluation matched physical shape characteristics of those skirts. In this study, appearances of typical cotton, wool, silk, rayon, and polyester skirts with different front and back pattern were compared between actual and virtual clothing depending on fabric materials. Subjective appearance evaluation was conducted by 7 experts regarding similarity between actual and virtual clothing with a 5-point scale. For objective evaluation of the both types of skirt shape, degree of roundness at the cross section, displacement of side seam, position of back waistline, and the number of folds at the skirt back were observed. In the case of cotton and wool, not the subjective appearance evaluation as well as shape characteristics of virtual skirts were well matched to the actual shape of skirts with a few material inputs. However, current material inputs for silk, rayon and polyester were insufficient to cover material differences in formation of virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.84-100
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• 2013

Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.