• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.53-66
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• 1998

In the meantime, the study of traditional and contemporary house had been produced so many achievements in korea, but modern house is yet to be solved, Accordingly, It is necessary to develop and present the basic research data in order to build up an objective study for urban house in the modern age(1910-1945), Following to a study on the foreigner's house in grid-type settlement of Open Ports, in this research is to investigate and analyze modern houses of urban areas in korean inland, and then clarify types and changes of them. In the first year($1995{\sim}96$), the modern houses of Central Inland Districts(arrounding river Kumgang)-Kunsan kanggyong Puyo Kongju Pugang Chongju were investigated by the layout of room, the construction and materials, the design and style, etc. In the second year($1996{\sim}97$), the modern houses of Open Market(開市場)-Seoul Taegu Kwangju Taejon Chonju were conducted to investigate as above. The traditional house transformed by differentiation and addition of room(kan), the various types were respectively adopted for the korean reforming and western cultural house. In the layout of room, the types of plan were gradually concentrated from the single wings of korean traditional house. The korean traditional house was later improved through the introduction of entrance, corridor, and internal toilet/bathroom. But the korean under-floor heating system(andal) and a series of three rooms had been entirely maintained, composed of master bedroom/living room(daechung)/room. And the traditional town house with shop and storage, being built closely to each other and walled up both sides, it had taken gradually the extensive characteristics in itself. By the displacement of shop/dwelling/ storage. the various types were respectively adopted for the separated, multi-storied, and complex type. The type of them was gradually changed to the narrow and linear form. And so with the stockpile of fundamental datas about modern houses in korean urban areas, we expect these results contribute to the knowledge of the spatial characteristics of urban house at present which are required to the understanding of transition as well as types.

• 동아시아식생활학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.235-246
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• 2001

The survey on the practice of the memorial ceremonial food in Chuncheon area showed it varied according to social position of officiator, location(inland or seaside town) , and personal condition. The study included the foods prepared for the memorial services on the memorial day. New Year's Day and Chusok. 1. 40.4% of the subjects were in the thirties at their age, 46.6% were high school graduates, 57.3% were the first daughter-in-law, 40.4% had no religion, 30.9% were working at public administration and earned less than 1 to 1,5 million won monthly. 2. 71.7% of the subjects who replied that the ancestor worship service had to be kept were Buddhists. 55.4% of them were high school graduates, and 58.8% of them ran independent businesses. They learned how to practice the ancestor worship service from their mother before marriage or from their parents-in-law after marriage. 3. The older the officiators, the better they wanted to keep the traditional format of the service, but the Christians and Catholics wanted to change the format to western style in the future. 4. 92.7% of them served cooked milled rice. They prepared the soup in the order of beef soup, radish soup and dried Alaskan pollack soup. 5. Among cooked vegetable dishes, bracken was used the most and balloonflower root, mung bean sprout and spinach followed. Among jeon(pan-fried foods). frozen Alaskan pollack was used the most and buckwheat, mung bean and meatball followed. 6. They served san-juk(beef kebab) mostly on the ceremony. Among the grilled foods, tofu was the favorite, and croaker followed. 7. Among the fried foods. squid was the favorite, and sweet-potato and shrimp followed. Among the dried foods. they used in the order of dried Alaskan pollack, dried beef and squid. 8. Among the rice cake and traditional confectionery, they used in the order of Yak-sik(sweet rice cake), Gang-jeong(fried glutinous rice cookie), Jeol-pyun and In-jeol-mee. Among a beverage, they served Sik-hye(fermented rice drink) mostly. 9. Among fruits, apples. jujube, chestnut and dried persimmon were served. Aong a liquor, Cheongju was served mostly. 10. Soy sauce, salt and salted fermented fish were served, too.

• Journal of Nutrition and Health
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.547-558
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• 1996

A rapid increase in urbanization and industrialization brings about a change in economic status which results in considerable changes in lifestyle including food habits and disease and mortality patterns. The purpose of the present study was to investigate recent food habit changes if any, reasons for food habit change, current food consumption patterns, and breakfast practices among urban adults with middle and upper income levels. Three hundred men and women, aged 20-60 years, were randomly selected and interviewed individually by trained interviewers. Among the twenty food groups studied, subjects reported that, compared to two years ago, they are now eating more fast foods, meats, fish, vegetables and fruits, and less rice, noodles, pastries, and salt. The changes in fast foods, fruits, and rice consumption patterns varied significantly between age, sex, income level, and BMI groups. The two most primary reasons for food habit changes were 'for my own health' and 'for my family's health', which shows that health seems to be the major concern in changing food habits. Among meals, the breakfast meal was rated as the most important one, and was not affected by the sociodemographic variables. However, the average rate of skipping breakfast was found to be as high as 33% with a greater rate in younger age groups. The rats of breakfast skipping was found to vary between different income, education, and BMI groups. Among the subjects who eat breakfast meals daily, a traditional Korean breakfast of rice and soup was found to be still a predominant choice, although younger age groups, upper income groups, and people with more education choice, although younger age groups, upper income groups, and people with more education tended to eat a western-style breakfast more frequently. These findings are applicable at the planning and implementation stages of various nutritional improvement projects as a part of the National health Promotion Law.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.460-476
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was, accordingly, to examine male college student's general body consciousness and their actual condition of wearing clothing, as it's assumed that clothing, which everyone must always wear, might be effective in making up for the physical defect. The findings of this study were as follows : 1. Male College Students'Body Consciousness : They expressed some dissatisfaction with their own body, and they were most discontented with their height, among their bodies. They thought of the western-style shape as an ideal one, as what's considered by them to be ideal was thinner a little than them, being taller with wider shoulder, longer legs, smaller and white face. 2. Male College Students'Characteristics of Clothing Purchasing Behavior : In purchasing clothing, male college students were slightly sensitive about the physical part with which they wasn't satisfied. The clothing pattern preferred by them was an abstract one, and their favorite color was white or black. The greatest number of them put most emphasis on design in buying clothing, and they purchased clothing mainly at special fashion shop. On the whole, they showed an affirmative response toward wearing Korean costume, and they also had a positive opinion about the purchase of reformed Korean dress for everyday life. 3. Male College Students'Characteristics of Wearing Clothing : They appeared not to consider making up for physical weakness. Male college students favored aloha shirt and trousers when they went out. Male college students purchase clothing in consideration of individual, manly, classical, tender, or comfortable factors. 4. Relationship of Body Consciousness to Wearing Behavior : The degree to which they considered covering up physical weakness in wearing clothing was examined, by dividing them into two groups : one was a group that thought their own shape normal, and the other was a group that didn't think of their own shape as normal. As a result, both groups appeared not to consider covering up physical weakness.

• 한국융합학회논문지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.119-125
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• 2018

본 연구의 목적은 해방기(1945~1950)의 한국 영화에 대한 분석을 통하여 도시의 주거풍경을 고찰하는 것이다. 이는 문화적 산물인 영화가 당대의 인간 행위, 주거문화, 도시풍경 등을 반드시 투영한다는 점을 전제로 진행되었다. 고찰을 위해 1946년부터 1949년까지에 해당하는 7편의 작품들이 선정되었으며, 각 영화의 장면들과 등장인물의 대사, 관련 신문기사나 평론, 시나리오 등이 종합적으로 분석되었다. 영화 속에서 도시주거풍경은 크게 2가지로 나타났다. 첫째, 사회문화적 혼란 속에서도 아파트나 문화주택 등 서구적 주거공간들이 조명되었는데, 이는 일반 대중의 동경과 호기심을 반영한 결과였다. 둘째, 서울 도심의 구석구석이 의도적으로 비추어졌는데, 이는 해방 직후의 혼란 속에서 서서히 안정을 찾아가고 있는 장안의 모습이 그대로 담긴 것이며 서울의 풍경 자체가 관객들에게 전시물이었다.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2016

This study examined and analyzed the women's jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market and Busan Jin Market. They study explored the items to look into the current state of the Jeogori patterns, as well as investigate the flat pattern jeogoris, including its source and aspects of change. Korean women's body figure has become more westernized, and the purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of this change on the traditional jeogoris. We hope to gather valuable data, which can be used to propose a new direction for designing hanbok in the future. The study methods are as follows: First, the types of jeogori patterns were examined. Second, the current state of jeogori patterns in the Seoul Gwangjang market and Jin market in Busan were analyzed to look into how the patterns have transitioned. And lastly, the reason for the origination of the flat pattern jeogori and the type of changes will be examined. Current study results show that two pattern types are being used: the flat composition jeogori and the flat pattern jeogori. Surveys show that more than 90 percent of the jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market are of the flat composition pattern variety, while more than 90 percent of jeogoris in the Busan Jin Market are of the flat pattern variety. In 1998, western-style dress designers in Busan introduced the flat pattern jeogoris, which were used to get rid of the wrinkles caused by the extra space, into the market after the financial crisis period in Korea, as a way to revitalize the market. This new pattern was popular among tea aficionados and traditional Korean musicians. It was exposed to the public via different mediums, such as TV programs, magazines, and brochures. Busan was the first to be exposed, and then it spread to Seoul. It also seems that the reduction of production cost caused the increase of the flat pattern jeogori.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.30-45
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• 2015

This study summarizes the dissemination aspects of liturgical vestments in Korea, and organizes the value and meanings of these disseminations as it appeared in the history of costumes by carrying out an empirical analysis on the relics of liturgical vestments since the modern times. It also examines its design characteristics as well. Liturgical vestments have symbolic meaning for the purpose and solar term of ceremonial occasions and it also functions as a way to differentiate the position and duty of the clergy. Liturgical vestments developed on the basis of ancient Greek-Roman costumes and transformed each situation and social trend of the age. Korean liturgical vestments started with their traditional costumes, in 1887, it were changed into French(western) style with freedom of religious. After the secondary Vatican Council held in 1962, various regulations were changed to spread the Catholic doctrines and ideology. This study conducted an empirical analysis and design consideration on the 28 relics of modern liturgical vestments on the basis of the foregoing standard and concept. As a result of analysis, relics were investigated as research materials worn by Bishops after 1960s. And design elements are that the relics used materials and ornament of Hanbok with flower patterns and decoration such as letter patterns including 壽(life) 福(luck) 喜(pleasure) as well as Chrysanthemum and Mancaowen design. These transition reflected by amend regulation of Vatican Council II. Accordingly, this data has been confirmed to be important for the history of costumes as it informs what process of changes liturgical vestments spread in Korea went through before they are worn as current appearance.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.