• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 2001

Based on the linear potential theory with the side wall reflection. the directional spectrum waves are numerically simulated by a source distribution method and these together with long-crested irregular waves are also generated at the towing tank of Pusan National University by considering the transfer function of the wave maker obtained from the regular waves. In the numerical simulation, the characteristics of the directional spreading function are investigated by changing the breadth of the wave-maker unit. the width of the towing tank and the wave period. In the experimental generation, the statistical properties and the power spectrums of the long-crested irregular and directional waves are compared along the towing tank length. The directional spreading functions are also investigated at various positions in the tank.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.143-151
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• 1990

The sediment transport in shallow water regions has been studied in various ways and, accordingly, many formulas have been proposed. However, when these formulas are applied practically in the field, they are not sufficient to fully estimate the sediment transport rate yet. The primary reason is how to take into account the effect of irregularities of field waves : wave heights, periods and directions. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate stochastic and kinematic characteristics of waves in three dimensional random seas in order to more accurately estimate it. In particular, the asymmetrical properties of directional spectrum become significant and play an important role in various phenomena in a shallow water region. In this study, their effects of incident waves the joint distribution of wave heights, periods and directions are investigated through field measurements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.154-163
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• 2009

Incident wave angles are conventionally estimated by the directional spectrum analysis of wave data collected from in-situ sensors. The in-situ measurements are limited in monitoring incident wave angles in the wide surf zone, since the techniques are typically expensive, labor-intensive, and point-measuring. In this study, estimation of incident wave angles using wave crest features captured in digital video imagery is proposed to observe incident wave directions over the surf zone. Line signatures of wave crests having high image pixel intensities are extracted by moving an interrogation window to identify high intensity pixels in sequential video images. Wave angles are computed by taking the first derivative of the extracted crest signatures, i.e. local slope of the crest signatures in the two-dimensional physical plane. Compared to the wave angle estimates obtained by the directional spectrum analysis, video-based wave angle estimates show good agreements in general.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.645-651
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• 2009

In this study, a series of laboratory experiments were carried out to investigate the weak reflection of regular and random water waves over a train of protruded permeable shore structures. A cylindrical slit type breakwater and the alternatives are employed and compared for reflecting and transmitting capabilities of incident waves including wave forces. A series of random waves were generated by using the Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu frequency and directional spectrum. Measured spectrum of irregular waves without breakwaters is verified by comparing with those of the input waves generated. Weak reflection is occurred at the breakwater center of the peak frequency. If the row of breakwaters is fixed at three layers and the relative height of breakwater is fixed at 0.6, around 45% of incident wave energy is reflected to offshore. It is also found that the transmission of directional random waves increases as the maximum frequency parameter increases. A very good agreement is observed. Reflection coefficients of permeable submerged breakwaters are less than those of impermeable breakwaters. The upside-down L shape is recommended for a small fishery harbor mooring in terms of reflecting capability and of practical application. The final design was applied to the wharf of a small beach of Seolly, near Namhae at the southeast coast of Korea.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.62-67
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• 2010

Swells occurred on the coast of the East Sea on February 24, 2008 caused a loss of three lives and also damaged several west coasts of Japan. The recent increase of swell intensity with number of accidents demands more accurate forecasting of swells in terms of time and location. The swells occurred in February 2008 are hindcasted using SWAN model to examine the accuracy of the model for future forecasting. The model results are compared with ReWW3 data as well as measurement wave data and specially, wave spectrum is analysed by comparing with observed spectrum at two wave stations located in the east coast of Korea. The SWAN model shows similar results with observation data in terms of significant wave heights and swell arrival time but the shapes of wave spectrum are different between model and in-situ measurement data. For further improvement of swell forecasting, more comparison and analysis with observed wave spectrum is necessary and wave directional spectrum data are required to study on the characteristics of swells in the East Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.209-218
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• 1995

Nonlinear interaction between directional wave components is theoretically analyzed in deep water. The perturbed solution for an irregular wave is derived accurate up to the third order of the wave steepness and it is shown that the wave characteristics are modulated due to the nonlinear interaction. The convergence rate of the perturbed solution depends on not only wave steepness but also wavelength ratio between wave components. The long-wave component of the perturbed solution converges rapidly. while the short-wave solution converges slowly or diverges. The short wave properties in a broad-band wave spectrum cannot accurately be obtained by the conventional wave-mode method because it fails to properly describe the modulation of short-wave frequency caused by the nonlinear interaction with much longer wave.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.35-43
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• 2003

Methods for measuring wave height and direction varies throughout the world, depending on wave climate and local traditions. In Japan, bottom mounted systems have long been the standard fur coastal areas with water depth less than 50m, and extensive studies in the 1980s and 1990s refined the systems to a level where the full wave directional spectrum could be measured. (omitted)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2009.10a
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• pp.81-84
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• 2009

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 1991.07a
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• pp.220-220
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• 1991

불규칙 파랑장의 frequency spectrum 에 쇄파로 인한 영향을 도입할 수 있는 기법이 제시되었다. 제시된 기법을 심해에서 발달된 방향성불규칙 파랑장이 흐름이 존재하는 해역으로 전이해 갈때 흐름과의 상호작용, 굴절, 천수효과, 및 쇄파로 인해 겪게되는 변화양상을 예측하기위해 두가지 형태의 연안류 즉, shear current, upwelling current 가 존재하는 일정 경사면을 갖는 해역에 대해 각각 적용했다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.342-354
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• 2008

Some statistical characteristics of deepwater waves along the Korean coast have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relation between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The mean and standard deviation of the principal deepwater wave direction are presented at the 106 coastal grid points along the Korean coast. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter $s_{max}$ is expressed as a lognormal distribution. The most suitable frequency spectrum in the Korean coast is the TMA spectrum. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor $\gamma$ is also expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.94, which is close to the value in the North Sea.