• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.28-37
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• 2006

The purpose of this work is to present three-dimensional models of plain fabrics having various warp and filling yarn diameters. In order to simulate a woven fabric, a 3-dimensional CAD software with NURBS modeling capability was used. Final rendering was performed on the fabric model. It was demonstrated that the changes in yarn diameter could be three-dimensionally modeled through the use of fabric geometry and the 3D CAD. A short RhinoScript program was composed to implement the data importing and model building on the 3D CAD.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.101-105
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• 2005

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences between projectile and air-jet looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these loom characteristics using KES-FB system. The paper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yarn and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yarn by projectile(Sulzer) and air-jet looms(Picanol PAT and OMNI), respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.176-181
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• 2003

Theoretical weavability limit relationships of fabrics from regular warp yarns and fancy filling yams with thickness variation in shuttleless weaving are reviewed. The relationships correlate maximum warp and filling cover factors, warp and filling yarn characteristics, the distribution of thick and thin places of filling yarn over the fabric surface, and the warp and filling weave factor. The research considers single filling feeder and multiple feeders cases. Additionally, comparisons between the weavability limit of regular yarns and fancy yams in shuttle and shuttleless weaving are given.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.326-332
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• 2014

To develop cool touch feeling fabrics for summer clothing material, it was manufactured several compositions of woven fabrics, having rayon multi-filament yarn (non-twisted) as warp and various kinds of yarn, such as viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (twisted), tencel$^{(R)}$ spun yarn, PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn, and PET based rayon-like yarn, as weft. After preparing the fabrics, basic properties of the fabrics were investigated, such as air-permeability, tensile strength, absorption rate, drying rate, etc. Also, surface warm / cool sensations of the woven fabrics were assessed by Qmax Warm / Cool Touch Tester. It was observed that the fabrics composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn (weft) showed excellent surface cool touch sensation-the highest Qmax value. This is because the fabric having flat shaped PET high absorbance quick dry filament shows the largest contact area with Qmax measuring plate. And, the fabric also showed superior high absorbance and quick dry property as expected. In addition, we treated phase change material (PCM) on the surface of the fabric composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn(weft) to improve the cool touch feeling. However, the surface cool touch feeling was impaired by resin treated with PCM during the finishing process.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.173-179
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• 2010

In this study, we determine the stretch and shrinkage properties of conjugated yarns. The shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) were determined by applying twist conditions of 0, 350, 800, 1000, 1200, 1400, 1600, 2000 T/M (twisting per meter). It is found that the shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) gradually decreased with increasing T/M. Especially the elasticity(%) dramatically decreased over 1400 T/M condition. In contrast, it is showed that the handle and drapery properties decreased below 1000 T/M, which indicates that the optimal T/M condition could be 1000~1400. The effect of shrinkage(%) and elasticity(%) with different steam setting temperatures (60, 70, 80 and $90^{\circ}C$) was also determined. The shrinkage(%) decreased with increasing setting temperature, while the elasticity not changed. In this context, the optimal steam setting temperature could be $80^{\circ}C$ because it is not easy to weave with the yarns which was set below $80^{\circ}C$. The elasticity(%) decreased with increasing the density of warp and weft. To produce soft handle, excellent drapery and good stretch fabrics, the warp density needs to be reached by 90% of the ideal warp density. In the case of NaOH treatments to the fabrics, the elasticity(%) increased with increasing weight reduction. Therefore, this study have demonstrated that the conjugated yarns with core yarn and the SDY CD(cation dyeable spindraw yarn) as an effect yarn would be appropriate to produce excellent mixture-yarn, which displays clean appearance, good handle and excellent elasticity, The optimized conditions are as follows; 1000~1200 twist per meter, $80^{\circ}C$ steam setting temperature, 90% of ideal warp density and relaxation condition treated with 5g/l NaOH concentration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1024-1031
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• 2012

The thermal bonding PET fabrics were produced through high temperature steaming (HTS) of low melting PET yarn as warp and composite fancy yarn containing low melting PET yarn as weft. The low melting PET yarn of sheath-core structure consisted of a regular PET in core portion and low melting PET in sheath portion. The composite fancy yarn consisted of regular PET yarn as inner part and effect part and low melting PET yarn as binding part. This study was carried out to investigate the melting behavior of thermal bonded PET fabric, the effect of HTS on the thermal bonding, mechanical properties, and dyeing properties. The melting peak of low melting PET yarn showed two melting peaks caused by sheath-core structure. Almost the entire thermal bonding of the fancy PET fabrics containing low melting PET yarn has formed at $200^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS. The tensile strength in warp and weft direction of the fancy PET fabrics slightly decreased as temperature of HTS increased. The total K/S value of the fancy PET fabrics decreased slightly to $180^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS, while increased slightly above $200^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS. The changes in the hue angle ($H^{\circ}$) of the thermal bonded fancy PET fabrics dyed with disperse dyes hardly ever happened.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.462-475
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• 2015

This paper investigated the characteristics of the physical properties of woven fabrics according to the yarn structure and fibre property. It was found that wicking property of woven fabrics made of sheath/core hybrid yarn were better than those of siro spun and siro-fil hybrid yarns, which was caused by platform for transport of moisture vapor by filaments on the core part of sheath core hybrid yarns. In drying property, the fabric specimen woven by PP/Tencel sheath core hybrid yarns as a warp and Coolmax/Tencel spun yarn as a weft showed quick drying property, which was caused by the sheath core hybrid yarn structure as drainage of water moisture and coolmax fibre characteristics as quick dry material. Concerning to breathability and thermal conductivity as heat transport phenomena, it was observed that breathability of fabrics woven with hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp and hi-multi filaments in the weft showed the lowest water vapor resistance, which was explained as due to for air gap in the fibres of the spun yarns to restrict the wet heat transport from perspiration vapor. Thermal conductivities of the fabrics woven with PET/Tencel siro-fil yarns in the weft and hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp revealed the highest values, which was observed as due to higher thermal conductivity of PET than PP and more contact point between fibres in the siro-fil and sheath core hybrid yarns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.765-771
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• 2004

This study surveys the warp and weft tension differences among 3 types of rapier looms and analyses the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment with relation of these looms characteristics using KES-FB system. Raper is divided by two parts. In the 1st paper, the worsted fabric is woven as 5 harness satin weave using 1/40 Nm sirofil worsted warp yam and 1/30 Nm worsted weft yam by rapier looms such as FAST-R, THEMA-11-E and PICANOL-GTX respectively. The weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position and weft tension of 3 kinds of looms. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.