The purpose of this thesis is to find out how the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and est had been influenced with each other. Analytical studies conclude the fellowing findings: 1) Upper garment styles in the feat Asia and the Egypt already highly developed in 28th century B.C. and show us the original style of the wrap-over to the left and that of the round neckline(曲領). Upper garment of the open in the center front shown in Babylonia in 18th century B.C. had been inherited to the caftan of the Hebrew and later succeeded to the Persia. 2) The tunic styles of the round neckline, the wrap-over to the left and the open in the cotter front, which were the basic styles of the upper garment, had teen widely accepted to the central Asia and the East Asia, as well as the Northern Europe, from the West Asia. 3) The styles of the wrap-over to the right originated from China since it had begun to show in the Shang Dynasty(商代, 殷代). 4) The East and the West costumes had been very much intermixed in 4th century B.C. Alexander the Great of Macedoria in 4th century B.C. expanded his territory to the central Asia and built up the Bacteria, when the most western civilization had been greatly transmitted to the Orient. Meanwhile the tunic being clad in the West and Central Asia began to be worn by soldiers in the period of the Warring States in China (326-299 B.C.) and afterwards worn even by civil officials since the age of the T'ang Dynasty of China. 5) The Upper garments of the open in the center front, the wrap-over to the right, the wrap-over to the left and the round neckline were found in Korea, which mean that the upper garment styles in the Ancient Korea were intermixed of the factors from the West Asia, the central Asia and the East Asia. 6) The styles of costume in the East Asia were influenced by the West Asia through the central Asia. The upper garment styles Europe were also influenced by the West Asia. Thus the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and West had been mutually affected with each other.
Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.
Haptic systems have been widely used for both virtual reality and augmented reality application including game, entertainment, education and medical sectors. Clothing designers and retailers initiated using AR and VR technologies to help the consumers find style with the perfect fit. Most of the developed augmented reality shopping is implemented by overlapping the image of the clothes on the customer so that he/she can find the fit. However, those are only visual information and the customer cannot experience the real size and the stiffness of the clothes. In this paper, we present the haptic upper garment which provides the haptic feedback to the user using cables. By controlling the length of the cable, the size of the clothes is set and by stiffness control, the compliance of the fabric is implemented. The haptic garment is modeled for precise control and the distributed controller architecture is described. With the haptic upper garment, the user's experience of the virtual clothes is greatly enhanced.
The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school summer uniform focused on middle and high school students. In order to collect the data, a questionnaire was administered to middle and high school students, and 1,153 data were analyzed. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical differences in mean of gender in the design(upper garment) and design & activity(lower garment). On the other hand, students' evaluation of summer school uniform was significantly different in the upper garment(textile, design, activity), and lower garment(design, activity) by school age. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the length and width of the summer upper garment(blouse/shirts) and the length and width of the summer garments( pants/skirts) were statistical differences in mean of gender or sexuality whereas there were significant differences in the summer upper garment(length, width, the length of sleeve, the width of sleeve, armhole) and the summer lower garment(length, width) by school age.
The purpose of this study was to trace and to identify costumes described in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). Conclusions and summary of the research can be summarized as follows. Pyo ui was an outer robe. It was worn by man and woman from all classes. Nai ui is considered as a kind of long inner garment worn under the outer garment. Ban bi is a short-sleeved garment worn over a jacket. Both sexes wore this garment but it was restricted to the upper class. Dan ui, a short garment, is a kind of jacket. Although records on this garment appear only in the items of woman's garments, it si considered that all people wore this garment since it was basic garment for the people of Silla. Bai was the bai ja. It was a kind of woman's over-cat with wide sleeves. Dang is considered as a kind of woman's outer robe originally made of ra. The upper class women entitled to wear the bai and the dang. Women wore skirts. They had tow kinds of skirts an outer skirt and an inner skirt. However, women of four du pum did not have an inner skirt. Trousers were worn by all people. Names of ban bi, bai, and dang were derived from T'ang China. These garments with their origins in T'ang China were used by the upper class people of Silla. They used those garments as a means of differentiating their social status from the lower class.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.32
no.10
/
pp.1651-1658
/
2008
This study was to decided the proper garment pressure level on the human body parts. Six volunteers (female: 30-40years) put on the same types of bands, a brief, and a non-woven gown. Garment pressure was measured in regular order with the elastic band on the human body parts such as the upper arm, the waist, the thigh, and the calf. At the same time, physiological responses such as the skin blood flow rate on 2 fingers, 7 different skin temperatures, rectal temperature, heat rates, and subjective responses about the pressure sensation, thermal sensation, and humidity sensation were measured and inquired. The results were as follows; 1. The thicker subcutaneous fat thickness, the higher the mean garment pressure on pressurizing the upper arm(p<.001). Also the thicker subcutaneous fat thickness. the thicker the upper arm circumference. 2. Heart rates increased pressured the upper arm and decreased pressured the waist, the thigh, and the calf. The higher the garment pressure, the higher heart rates on all body parts were pressured. Especially lean subjects showed higher physiological load than others. 3. On pressurizing the upper arm, heart rates, rectal temperature, and mean skin temperature were higher than without pressured state and pressured other body parts.4. The proper garment pressure levels were decided 30gf/$cm^2$ for fat people, 20gf/$cm^2$ for others on the upper arms and 24gf/$cm^2$ on the calf.
With considerable development of comfortable and functional clothing in recent years, we need to evaluate the effects of garment pressure in daily wear on each parts of human body because the garment pressure is important to design the clothing. This study was designed to examine the effects of body postures on garment pressure on each parts of human body in the actual clothing conditions. All the data were collected from 50 volunteered subjects. The Garment pressure was measured in lune and December with 8 points CPMS clothing pressure system from scapular, upper am, elbow, under arm, front waist line, side waist line, abdomen, crista ilica, upper hip, middle hip, front thigh, back thigh, front knee and back knee. The postures of subjects were controlled with 3 positions such as standing (posture 1), sitting on the chair (posture 2), and sitting on the floor (posture 3) during measurement of clothing pressure. Clothing weights were more in men than in woman. It showed that clothing weights had no effects on the garment pressure. In this study, however, just the garment pressures on scapular and top of the hip increased significantly by clothing weight (p<. 05). Clothing horizontally pressed on scapular and top of hip but not on other parts. When subjects stood up, the garment pressure was the highest on the side waist. Especially, clothing pressure on the front waist point was lower than that of the left side waist. On the upper parts of the human body, the garment pressure of left side waist was the highest, and followed by front waist, crista ilica, and abdomen in order. When subjects were sitting on the chair, the garment pressure on the lower parts of the human body was the highest on the top of hip. When the subjects were sitting on the chair or on the floor, the surface area on their skin of hip and waist parts increased by postures. In addition, it showed that men felt more comfortable than women on higher clothing pressure level.
The Purpose of the study was to examine the formative characteristics of silver fashion design by analyzing the silhouettes, colors, patterns, textures, and details in the brands for silver generation in Korea. Photographs of silver generation women's brands were collected to be analyzed with a focus on formative characteristics using SPSS packages. The result revealed the common formative characteristics of madam-brands and designer boutique brands-they both use semi-fitted silhouette with lighter colors for upper garment, and darker shades for lower garment. When it come to textile, upper garment was mainly made with hard and soft textile. In patterns, plain, flower print, and asymmetrical patterns were used for upper garment, and plain patterns for lower garment. Despite the gap in price, there were few differences in madam-brands and designer boutique brands with partial differences in the kinds of patterns, the proportion of patterns, the details such as zip-ups and buttons, beads, laces, and ruffles, and the use of different textiles for each brand. In conclusion, it is important to develop design that helps cover the body shapes of silver generation customers while highlighting the unique design of each brand for the development of the silver fashion.
This research is aimed at analyzing the image and preference of the school uniform of a girls' high school located in Ulsan. The analysis of 396 data were measured by the frequency, the t-test through SPSS 12.0. The results show that first, in the image, they associated a cold color, short v zone, necktie with mannish image, a coordination between boxy jacket and flared skirt or silhouette mixture of mannish image and feminie image with unfashionable. Second, sensibility images that they prefers differed significantly in mature, soft, and practical images between different academic spheres, and in terms of refined image between different grades. Third, in preference of school uniform wearing, photo 9 showed the significance by groups and photo 6 showed it by grade. As a result of uniform design preference analysis, significant differences were by academic shown on photo 2 in total harmony and color combination, on photo 3 in details, on photo 7 in lower garment design, on photo 8 in upper garment design, on photo 9 in total harmony, upper garment design, lower garment design, color combination and details. Meanwhile, photo 1 showed the significance by grade in color combination, photo 4 in total harmony and upper garment design, photo 7 in upper garment design, respectively. Through this study, we could assume schoolgirls' attitude toward school uniform currently worn by them and it is considered to be used for resolving diverse problems which have been raised when school uniform design is being planned to satisfy students' desires.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.35
no.9
/
pp.1049-1059
/
2011
This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.
본 웹사이트에 게시된 이메일 주소가 전자우편 수집 프로그램이나
그 밖의 기술적 장치를 이용하여 무단으로 수집되는 것을 거부하며,
이를 위반시 정보통신망법에 의해 형사 처벌됨을 유념하시기 바랍니다.
[게시일 2004년 10월 1일]
이용약관
제 1 장 총칙
제 1 조 (목적)
이 이용약관은 KoreaScience 홈페이지(이하 “당 사이트”)에서 제공하는 인터넷 서비스(이하 '서비스')의 가입조건 및 이용에 관한 제반 사항과 기타 필요한 사항을 구체적으로 규정함을 목적으로 합니다.
제 2 조 (용어의 정의)
① "이용자"라 함은 당 사이트에 접속하여 이 약관에 따라 당 사이트가 제공하는 서비스를 받는 회원 및 비회원을
말합니다.
② "회원"이라 함은 서비스를 이용하기 위하여 당 사이트에 개인정보를 제공하여 아이디(ID)와 비밀번호를 부여
받은 자를 말합니다.
③ "회원 아이디(ID)"라 함은 회원의 식별 및 서비스 이용을 위하여 자신이 선정한 문자 및 숫자의 조합을
말합니다.
④ "비밀번호(패스워드)"라 함은 회원이 자신의 비밀보호를 위하여 선정한 문자 및 숫자의 조합을 말합니다.
제 3 조 (이용약관의 효력 및 변경)
① 이 약관은 당 사이트에 게시하거나 기타의 방법으로 회원에게 공지함으로써 효력이 발생합니다.
② 당 사이트는 이 약관을 개정할 경우에 적용일자 및 개정사유를 명시하여 현행 약관과 함께 당 사이트의
초기화면에 그 적용일자 7일 이전부터 적용일자 전일까지 공지합니다. 다만, 회원에게 불리하게 약관내용을
변경하는 경우에는 최소한 30일 이상의 사전 유예기간을 두고 공지합니다. 이 경우 당 사이트는 개정 전
내용과 개정 후 내용을 명확하게 비교하여 이용자가 알기 쉽도록 표시합니다.
제 4 조(약관 외 준칙)
① 이 약관은 당 사이트가 제공하는 서비스에 관한 이용안내와 함께 적용됩니다.
② 이 약관에 명시되지 아니한 사항은 관계법령의 규정이 적용됩니다.
제 2 장 이용계약의 체결
제 5 조 (이용계약의 성립 등)
① 이용계약은 이용고객이 당 사이트가 정한 약관에 「동의합니다」를 선택하고, 당 사이트가 정한
온라인신청양식을 작성하여 서비스 이용을 신청한 후, 당 사이트가 이를 승낙함으로써 성립합니다.
② 제1항의 승낙은 당 사이트가 제공하는 과학기술정보검색, 맞춤정보, 서지정보 등 다른 서비스의 이용승낙을
포함합니다.
제 6 조 (회원가입)
서비스를 이용하고자 하는 고객은 당 사이트에서 정한 회원가입양식에 개인정보를 기재하여 가입을 하여야 합니다.
제 7 조 (개인정보의 보호 및 사용)
당 사이트는 관계법령이 정하는 바에 따라 회원 등록정보를 포함한 회원의 개인정보를 보호하기 위해 노력합니다. 회원 개인정보의 보호 및 사용에 대해서는 관련법령 및 당 사이트의 개인정보 보호정책이 적용됩니다.
제 8 조 (이용 신청의 승낙과 제한)
① 당 사이트는 제6조의 규정에 의한 이용신청고객에 대하여 서비스 이용을 승낙합니다.
② 당 사이트는 아래사항에 해당하는 경우에 대해서 승낙하지 아니 합니다.
- 이용계약 신청서의 내용을 허위로 기재한 경우
- 기타 규정한 제반사항을 위반하며 신청하는 경우
제 9 조 (회원 ID 부여 및 변경 등)
① 당 사이트는 이용고객에 대하여 약관에 정하는 바에 따라 자신이 선정한 회원 ID를 부여합니다.
② 회원 ID는 원칙적으로 변경이 불가하며 부득이한 사유로 인하여 변경 하고자 하는 경우에는 해당 ID를
해지하고 재가입해야 합니다.
③ 기타 회원 개인정보 관리 및 변경 등에 관한 사항은 서비스별 안내에 정하는 바에 의합니다.
제 3 장 계약 당사자의 의무
제 10 조 (KISTI의 의무)
① 당 사이트는 이용고객이 희망한 서비스 제공 개시일에 특별한 사정이 없는 한 서비스를 이용할 수 있도록
하여야 합니다.
② 당 사이트는 개인정보 보호를 위해 보안시스템을 구축하며 개인정보 보호정책을 공시하고 준수합니다.
③ 당 사이트는 회원으로부터 제기되는 의견이나 불만이 정당하다고 객관적으로 인정될 경우에는 적절한 절차를
거쳐 즉시 처리하여야 합니다. 다만, 즉시 처리가 곤란한 경우는 회원에게 그 사유와 처리일정을 통보하여야
합니다.
제 11 조 (회원의 의무)
① 이용자는 회원가입 신청 또는 회원정보 변경 시 실명으로 모든 사항을 사실에 근거하여 작성하여야 하며,
허위 또는 타인의 정보를 등록할 경우 일체의 권리를 주장할 수 없습니다.
② 당 사이트가 관계법령 및 개인정보 보호정책에 의거하여 그 책임을 지는 경우를 제외하고 회원에게 부여된
ID의 비밀번호 관리소홀, 부정사용에 의하여 발생하는 모든 결과에 대한 책임은 회원에게 있습니다.
③ 회원은 당 사이트 및 제 3자의 지적 재산권을 침해해서는 안 됩니다.
제 4 장 서비스의 이용
제 12 조 (서비스 이용 시간)
① 서비스 이용은 당 사이트의 업무상 또는 기술상 특별한 지장이 없는 한 연중무휴, 1일 24시간 운영을
원칙으로 합니다. 단, 당 사이트는 시스템 정기점검, 증설 및 교체를 위해 당 사이트가 정한 날이나 시간에
서비스를 일시 중단할 수 있으며, 예정되어 있는 작업으로 인한 서비스 일시중단은 당 사이트 홈페이지를
통해 사전에 공지합니다.
② 당 사이트는 서비스를 특정범위로 분할하여 각 범위별로 이용가능시간을 별도로 지정할 수 있습니다. 다만
이 경우 그 내용을 공지합니다.
제 13 조 (홈페이지 저작권)
① NDSL에서 제공하는 모든 저작물의 저작권은 원저작자에게 있으며, KISTI는 복제/배포/전송권을 확보하고
있습니다.
② NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 상업적 및 기타 영리목적으로 복제/배포/전송할 경우 사전에 KISTI의 허락을
받아야 합니다.
③ NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 보도, 비평, 교육, 연구 등을 위하여 정당한 범위 안에서 공정한 관행에
합치되게 인용할 수 있습니다.
④ NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 무단 복제, 전송, 배포 기타 저작권법에 위반되는 방법으로 이용할 경우
저작권법 제136조에 따라 5년 이하의 징역 또는 5천만 원 이하의 벌금에 처해질 수 있습니다.
제 14 조 (유료서비스)
① 당 사이트 및 협력기관이 정한 유료서비스(원문복사 등)는 별도로 정해진 바에 따르며, 변경사항은 시행 전에
당 사이트 홈페이지를 통하여 회원에게 공지합니다.
② 유료서비스를 이용하려는 회원은 정해진 요금체계에 따라 요금을 납부해야 합니다.
제 5 장 계약 해지 및 이용 제한
제 15 조 (계약 해지)
회원이 이용계약을 해지하고자 하는 때에는 [가입해지] 메뉴를 이용해 직접 해지해야 합니다.
제 16 조 (서비스 이용제한)
① 당 사이트는 회원이 서비스 이용내용에 있어서 본 약관 제 11조 내용을 위반하거나, 다음 각 호에 해당하는
경우 서비스 이용을 제한할 수 있습니다.
- 2년 이상 서비스를 이용한 적이 없는 경우
- 기타 정상적인 서비스 운영에 방해가 될 경우
② 상기 이용제한 규정에 따라 서비스를 이용하는 회원에게 서비스 이용에 대하여 별도 공지 없이 서비스 이용의
일시정지, 이용계약 해지 할 수 있습니다.
제 17 조 (전자우편주소 수집 금지)
회원은 전자우편주소 추출기 등을 이용하여 전자우편주소를 수집 또는 제3자에게 제공할 수 없습니다.
제 6 장 손해배상 및 기타사항
제 18 조 (손해배상)
당 사이트는 무료로 제공되는 서비스와 관련하여 회원에게 어떠한 손해가 발생하더라도 당 사이트가 고의 또는 과실로 인한 손해발생을 제외하고는 이에 대하여 책임을 부담하지 아니합니다.
제 19 조 (관할 법원)
서비스 이용으로 발생한 분쟁에 대해 소송이 제기되는 경우 민사 소송법상의 관할 법원에 제기합니다.
[부 칙]
1. (시행일) 이 약관은 2016년 9월 5일부터 적용되며, 종전 약관은 본 약관으로 대체되며, 개정된 약관의 적용일 이전 가입자도 개정된 약관의 적용을 받습니다.