• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.109-123
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the expression techniques and methods of Upcycling fashion brands and designers who have focused on Upcycling, and have found success. The study used collected literatures, press releases, and Internet searches using the word, 'Upcycling' in order to investigate the design characteristics and to set up criteria to classify the material expression techniques found in Upcycling fashion design. The results are as follows: Firstly, according to the result of analyzing the product images of Upcycling fashion design, the most frequently used expression methods are deconstruction and reorganization, $d{\acute{e}}paysement$, and assemblage/collage. Deconstruction and reorganization is used to make most of the Upcycling fashion design products using recycled materials. It is one of the ways to create new value that transcends the value of the previous item. Secondly, Upcycling fashion design's expression techniques generally attempt to use recycling material diversely to complement the recycling material that is limited in some way to the purpose of clothing. In this process, we can find expression techniques used to bring out) the characteristics of Upcycling fashion design. Patching, adding, cutting, folding, or weaving is the technique mainly employed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.1-15
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• 2024

Christopher Nemeth is a designer who combines characteristics of a pioneering upcycle design and deconstructionist design with fabrics, waste clothing, and pieces of fabric recycled in the 1980s. By hommaging his work from the Louis Vuitton 2015 F/W collection, Kim Jones is once again becoming a source of design inspiration in an era where upcycling fashion is attracting attention. Accordingly, an upcycling design approach might appeal to the MZ generation. Christopher Nemes' design presented in this study as a representative fashion designer of dismantling upcycling is basically based on dismantling. It can also be interpreted as dismantling upcycling design because it uses used clothing, waste clothing, and discarded fabrics as materials. This study examined main techniques of upcycling fashion design and derived characteristics of Nemes design as "deconstructive techniques using free lines of construction," "recycling upcycling vintage materials and clothing accessories," and "using handcrafted techniques of artistic sensibility." By applying Nemes' dismantling upcycling technique, four designs were developed for men's top and bottom sets for targets in their 20s and 30s to suggest the commercialization possibility. This study is meaningful in that it proposes a methodical alternative to the new deconstructionist upcycling design that can show Nemes' aesthetic characteristics, creative perspective, and personality by modernly reinterpreting the deconstructionist upcycling technique extracted through analysis of fashion designer Christopher Nemes' design. In particular, by actually producing the work and confirming whether the design technique can be implemented, the value as a fashion product that can be sold is realized.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.108-120
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• 2023

Recently, interest in eco-friendliness and sustainability has been increasing due to the rapid progress of fast fashion and the crisis of sudden environmental changes after COVID-19. This study aims to develop upcycling textiles and express product design using digital 3D to realize a sustainable fashion industry and present environmental aspects, diversity, creativity, and new directions in fashion industry design. The research method is to develop and pattern upcycling textile designs by applying weaving techniques with waste materials. It uses the developed upcycling textile design in digital 3D to incorporate it into clothing fashion and shows the utility and practicality of upcycling textile design. As a result of the study, the appearance is realistic when outputting DTP of upcycling textile design. It endures without loosening or tearing, making it a durable and creatively expressive fashion item. Texpro 3D mapping reduces the time and cost of making actual sample fabric. Upcycling textile design and 3D CLO virtual clothing are combined to produce actual clothing samples, resulting in zero waste reduction due to cutting and sewing. This study anticipates actively and continuously advancing the development of upcycling textile design and digital 3D in terms of ethics and the environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.984-1003
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• 2020

The global fashion industry produces significant carbon emission and micro-plastics in oceans. Studies on sustainable design methods as such environmental issues in fashion are becoming intensely problematic. This study conducted a case study on 100 upcycle fashion brands to propose strategical upcycle fashion designs to compete in a sustainable fashion market. A literature review indicated that 3 types of textile wastes are generated as upcycling materials: post-producer, pre-consumer and post-consumer. Wastes are categorized together with 3 types of techniques: redesigning, reconstruction and handcrafting. This research derived 7 types of upcycle fashion designs that have the following features: to make luxury upcycle fashion products, to make sustainable grunge looks, to re-evaluate deadstocks, to recover vintage clothes, to convert waste into craft-arts, to offer solutions for damaged products, and to make zero-waste small fabric waste. The study results show that key drivers in the upcycle fashion design are the redesignability of materials and technique-related costs. This study implies that adopting appropriate design features can be a useful strategy for designers. New technologies will solve current problems and encourage them to design products in a new circular value system.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 2019

The mass production after the industrialisation and the fast changing fashion cycles in today's world resulted in buying clothes and home textiles more than we need and discarding them before they complete their life cycles. This causes vast amounts of textile waste that creates environmental issues. Upcycling is the creative process of transforming clothing and textile waste by reusing deadstock or used fabric to create new garments and products. It holds importance in terms of sustainability, reducing waste and environmental pollution. During the process of upcycling, certainly the creativity and innovation are the key words because to reuse a product to a better value needs a creative mind, aesthetic consciousness, innovative look and knowledge and it is quite different from a normal design procedure. There is a delicate level of aesthetics which carries the reused materials to a higher value. The handling of the materials, knowing how to manipulate the waste material, the techniques available to apply to surfaces, the concept of two and three dimension on textiles and clothing, contributions of other branches of art such as sculpture and painting all help the designer to reach a higher aesthetic value in the upcycled product in this process. In the study; it was aimed to raise awareness, to attract attention to sustainable fashion and also to contribute to sustainable development as an upcycling design project realized with students in textile and fashion design education taken as an example.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.890-911
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• 2020

This study proposed a base framework for creating sustainable designs with textile production waste and unused neckties with the "design thinking" approach, which is an iterative process. It aimed to set an example of how fashion designers can plan and manage their clothing design processes in a more sustainable way by recycling textile production scraps and unused neckties into unique clothing pieces with the upcycling method. Unused neckties and upholstery scraps were turned into skirts, blouses, and dresses by using creative techniques in line with current fashion trends. In addition, the five-stage iterative design process followed was explained, and the way in which the waste textile materials gained value by being converted into unique garments was discussed in terms of the user and the designer. Through the study, it was observed that the smallest amount of textile waste can be transformed into upcycled clothing via the iterative process, and original, value-added products enjoyed by consumers can be created. In addition, it was observed that the design thinking approach improves the understanding of the context of the problem, creativity in the generation of insights and solutions, skills to materialize those solutions through iterative prototyping, and the ability to combine these factors. Promising ideas to help designers develop recycling strategies were also provided.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.568-577
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• 2023

This study examined how middle-aged female consumers' environmental consciousness influences their attitudes and ethical purchasing behavior toward RUR (recycling, upcycling, and reuse) knit products. The research employs a survey method, targeting 30-40 year old women residing in Seoul and Gyeonggi-do Province. On-line and off-line data collection were conducted. The following conclusions emerged through statistical analyses, including factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, and regression analysis. Firstly, respondents' environmental consciousness variables were classified into two factors, delineating high and low environmental consciousness clusters, demonstrating significant differences between them. Secondly, the high environmental consciousness cluster exhibited more positive consumer attitudes and ethical purchasing behavior towards RUR knit products. Moreover, it was established that environmental pollution consciousness and eco-friendly product purchase consciousness influenced environmental consciousness on consumer attitudes and ethical purchasing behavior. Lastly, the study confirmed that consumer attitudes mediated environmental consciousness and ethical purchasing behavior. In conclusion, this research establishes a meaningful link between environmental consciousness, consumer attitudes, and ethical purchasing behavior in 30-40 year old women. Environmentally conscious groups positively influence attitudes toward RUR knitted fashion and promote ethical purchasing behavior. Consequently, it is recommended that knit fashion companies prioritize environmental consciousness and eco-friendly products in their marketing strategies. Furthermore, diversifying the application of RUR knit products, coupled with eco-friendly production techniques, can amplify their appeal and utility, ensuring a positive impact on consumer behavior.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.138-154
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to propose up-cycling fashion designs, based on guidelines derived from up-cycling fashion brand products and their required elements of the design. The study thus categorized required elements into environment, significance, economy, function, design, and material, then extracted a set of design guidelines. The guidelines for waste resource-based up-cycling fashion design include the followings: First, authenticity, taking mutual environmental relations into account. Second, rarity of products beyond the domain of standardized ready-made goods thanks to manual operation. Third, storytelling, reflecting the consumer history. Fourth, sustainability to signify the circulation of matters. Fifth, experimental characteristic to fulfill creative innovation. Sixth, changeability through interactions with wearers. The investigator decided design concepts based on them and created up-cycling design works with waste plastic bags, shirts, stockings, neckties, outdoor mats, and backpacks in a variety of formative expressive techniques.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.83-91
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• 2017

This study was conducted by the awareness that although interior spaces using the techniques and characteristics of assemblage are excellent means to reveal distinctiveness and identity with preeminent originality which are different from other spaces, there are few domestic studies and literatures on them. The results analyzed by preceding studies and cases on the characteristics of expression of assemblage which appear in the interior spaces of commercial areas can be summarized as follows; First, assemblage expresses identity of spaces with symbols capable of multiple interpretations through the method of integration and repetition of the materials used. Second, it strongly reminds visitors of memories on spaces by producing odd and unfamiliar scenes with such designs as installation art. Third, when it uses ordinary materials, it adds combination, integration, transformation or colors to the materials for extraordinary traits. Fourth, it pursues sustainability through recycling or upcycling by using wastes or natural materials. Fifth, in order to express materials to fit the purposes of spaces, it formulates outcomes with intentional plans. To sum up above analysis results, expressions of assemblage which appear in modern commercial spaces are characterized by expression of symbols with multiple meanings, purse formativeness which fit the purposes and meanings of spaces, play the role of reminding memories on places by producing extraordinary spaces with strangeness and unfamiliarity such as installation art and sometimes show sustainability by using recyclable materials. The results of this study are expected to be utilized as reference materials which suggest directions of approach to interior spaces through assemblage techniques and materials which can be used in various design terms by domestic designers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.134-151
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• 2021

The aim of this research is to develop a clothing and textiles studio course for preservice home economics teachers applying principles of Project-Based Learning (PBL) and maker education to equip future teachers with the ability to nurture creativity among adolescents. The studio course was developed in the following stages: analysis, design, development, implementation, and evaluation. We concluded that the resulting course met the following objectives extracted from the 2015 revised curriculum of home economics subjects: to promote creative and environmentally-friendly fashion design and styling abilities, gain the ability to use makerspace tools, understand flat pattern making and sewing processes, and develop creative thinking, aesthetic sense, and communication skills. Furthermore, the educational effects of PBL and maker education were confirmed through student comments on the course. Students mentioned the practicality of the material in their actual lives along with their enhanced integration of the subject material, self-directedness, aesthetic sense, ability to learn through trial and error, collaboration and communication, and sharing. Based on results from the implementation and evaluation stages, a clothing and textiles studio course should include the following modules: introduction of terms and tools, submission and sharing of clothing reformation and upcycling techniques, introduction to hand sewing, pouch making, heat-transfer printing, 3D printing, mask making, hat making, vest making, and the final team project on fashion styling. It is important for instructors to provide detailed guidelines on selecting personas for styling, looking for available materials, and selecting materials online.