DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on Upcycle Fashion Design Based on the Characteristics of Materials and Techniques

재료 및 기법의 특성에 기반하는 업사이클 패션 디자인 연구

  • Yu, Haemin (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University) ;
  • Chun, Jaehoon (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University)
  • Received : 2020.07.31
  • Accepted : 2020.09.18
  • Published : 2020.10.31

Abstract

The global fashion industry produces significant carbon emission and micro-plastics in oceans. Studies on sustainable design methods as such environmental issues in fashion are becoming intensely problematic. This study conducted a case study on 100 upcycle fashion brands to propose strategical upcycle fashion designs to compete in a sustainable fashion market. A literature review indicated that 3 types of textile wastes are generated as upcycling materials: post-producer, pre-consumer and post-consumer. Wastes are categorized together with 3 types of techniques: redesigning, reconstruction and handcrafting. This research derived 7 types of upcycle fashion designs that have the following features: to make luxury upcycle fashion products, to make sustainable grunge looks, to re-evaluate deadstocks, to recover vintage clothes, to convert waste into craft-arts, to offer solutions for damaged products, and to make zero-waste small fabric waste. The study results show that key drivers in the upcycle fashion design are the redesignability of materials and technique-related costs. This study implies that adopting appropriate design features can be a useful strategy for designers. New technologies will solve current problems and encourage them to design products in a new circular value system.

Keywords

References

  1. Aakko, M., & Koskennurmi-Sivonen, R. (2013). Designing sustainable fashion: Possibilities and challenges. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 17(1), 13-22. doi:10.1108/RJTA17-01-2013-B002
  2. Adhesif Clothing Company. (n.d.). Bing Bolero. Adhesif Clothing Company. Retrieved from https://adhesifclothing.com/products/bing-bolero?_pos=1&_sid=583a8eebf&_ss=r
  3. Ahmed, O. (2016, May 27). The beauty of Geoffrey B. Small's handcrafted slowness. AnOther. Retrieved from https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8730/the-beauty-of-geoffrey-b-smalls-handcrafted-slowness
  4. Amed, I., Balchandani, A., Berg, A., Hedrich, S., Poojara, S., & Rolkens, F. (2019, November 20). The State of Fashion 2020: Navigating uncertainty. McKinsey & Company. Retrieved from https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-state-of-fashion-2020-navigating-uncertainty
  5. Art Market Art & Craft Sale. (2017, September 20). Adhesif Clothing - Melissa Ferreira - Art Market Artisan. Youtube. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=13&v=kw7gpGONIcc&feature=emb_logo
  6. Atelier & Repairs. (n.d.). The Camo Cargo Pant On LSD. Atelier & Repairs. Retrieved from https://atelierandrepairs.com/col lections/bottoms/products/camo-on-lsd
  7. Bae, S., & Jung, K. (2018). Up-cycling fashion design for sustainable development. Gwangju: Chonnam National University Press.
  8. Bae, S., & Kang, K. Y. (2019). A study on fabric swatch up-cycling fashion accessories using quilting technique. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 20(2), 131-142. https://doi.org/10.47294/KSBDA.20.2.11
  9. Berlinger, M. (2019, November 26). Atelier & Repairs Is Maurizio Donadi's Response to the "Broken" Fashion System. GQ. Retrieved from https://www.gq.com/story/atelier-repairs-ladispatch
  10. Binotto, C., & Payne, A. (2017). The poetic of waste: Contemporary fashion practice in the context of wastefulness. Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry, 9(1), 5-29. doi:10.1080/17569370.2016.1226604
  11. Cernansky, R. (2020a, January 6). Fashion has a waste problem. These companies want to fix it. Vogue Business. Retrieved from https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/fashion-waste-problem-fabrics-deadstock-pashko-burberry-reformation
  12. Cernansky, R. (2020b, April 7). Retailers tell suppliers they won't cancel orders. The reality is more complicated. Vogue Business. Retrieved from https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/retailers-tell-suppliers-they-wont-cancel-orders-reality-more-complicated
  13. CINI, C. A. (2019). An upcycling project in textile and fashion design. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 27(1), 11-19. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2019.27.1.011
  14. Domina, T., & Koch, K. (1997). The textile waste lifecycle. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 15(2), 96-102. doi:10.1177/0887302X9701500204
  15. Eco Fashion Talk. (2012a, March 25). Eva Zingoni. Eco Fashion Talk. Retrieved from http://www.ecofashiontalk.com/2012/03/eva-zingoni/
  16. Eco Fashion Talk. (2012b, May 13). Victim Fashion Street. Eco Fashion Talk. Retrieved from http://www.ecofashiontalk.com/2012/05/victim-fashion-street/
  17. FADE OUT Label. (2020, June 20). "KOTTI" Kapsule Kollection. Facebook. Retrieved from https://www.facebook.com/fadeoutlabel/photos/a.718233311705572/1387576104771286/
  18. Fletcher, K., & Grose, L. (2012). Fashion & sustainability: Design for change. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd.
  19. GreenStitched. (2017, January 11). Meet Patrycja Guzik: Winner of the EcoChic Design Award 2016. GreenStitched. Retrieved from https://greenstitched.com/2017/01/11/meet-patrycja-guzik-winner-of-the-ecochic-design-award-2016/
  20. Gwilt, A. (2014). A practical guide to sustainable fashion. London and New York: Bloomsbury.
  21. Han, S. L. C., Chan, P. Y. L., Venkatraman, P., Apeagyei, P., Cassidy, T., & Tyler, D. J. (2017). Standard vs. upcycled fashion design and production. Fashion Practice; The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry, 9(1), 69-94. doi:10.1080/17569370.2016.1227146
  22. Hawley, J. M. (2006). Digging for diamonds: A conceptual framework for understanding reclaimed textile products. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(3), 262-275. doi:10.1177/0887302X06294626
  23. Hermes. (n.d.). Silk Shrug. Hermes. Retrieved from https://www.hermes.com/us/en/product/silk-shrug-H1028038v92/
  24. H&M Group. (2019). Circular & Climate Positive. H&M Group. Retrieved from https://sustainabilityreport.hmgroup.com/circular-climate-positive/#
  25. House of Switzerland. (2020, May 6). Eco-couturier Kevin Germanier. House of Switzerland. Retrieved from https://houseofswitzerland.org/swissstories/society/eco-couturier-kevingermanier
  26. Hyun, S. E. (2019, June 28). '봉제 . 염색 불량' 의류 분쟁, 소비자 과실은 10건 중 2건 [Only two out of ten cases of 'defective clothing products on sewing and dyeing' causes from consumer negligence]. The Hankyoreh. Retrived from http://www.hani.co.kr/arti/economy/consumer/899715.html#csidx87b4953bd8036eaa4a22bb3b28c523d
  27. I was a Sari. (n.d.-a). We are. I was a Sari. Retrieved from https://iwasasari.com/we-are/
  28. I was a Sari. (n.d.-b) EARRINGS. I was a Sari. Retrieved from https://iwasasari.com/jewelry/
  29. Janigo, K. A., Wu, J., & DeLong, M. (2017). Redesigning fashion: An analysis and categorization of women's clothing upcycling behavior. Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry, 9(2), 254-279. doi:10.1080/17569370.2017.1314114
  30. Kim, K. H. (2013, April 9). 원단조각 재활용하면 부가가치 300억 창출 [Generating 30 billion won of profic by recycling small pieces of fabric]. The SCOOP. Retrieved from https://www.thescoop.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=6688
  31. Koo, S., & Ma, Y. J. (2019). Environmentally responsible apparel consumption and convertible dresses. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 43(3), 327-348. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2019.43.3.327
  32. Kook, H.-S. (2014). A study of sustainable zero waste fashion design (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Ewha Womans University, Seoul.
  33. Leitch, L. (2017, June 11.). Raeburn: SPRING 2018 MENSWEAR. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/christopher-raeburn/slideshow/collection
  34. Luxiders. (n.d.). The future of Zero Waste: Redress Design Award 2019 Winners. Luxiders. Retrieved from https://luxiders.com/redress-design-award-2019-british-designer-maddiewilliams-wins/
  35. McFall-Johnsen, M. (2019, October 22). The fashion industry emits more carbon than international flights and maritime shipping combined. Here are the biggest ways it impacts the planet. Business Insider. Retrieved from https://www.businessinsider.com/fast-fashion-environmental-impact-pollutionemissions-waste-water-2019-10
  36. Mower, S. (2020a, January 27). Greg Lauren: FALL 2020 MENSWEAR. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/greg-lauren
  37. Mower, S. (2020b, January 27.). Greg Lauren: FALL 2020 MENSWEAR. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/greg-lauren/slideshow/collection#7
  38. Muthu, S. S. (Ed.). (2018). Sustainale innovations in recycled textiles. Hong Kong: Springer.
  39. Not Just a Label. (n.d.). Victim Fashionst. Not Just a Label. Retrieved from https://www.notjustalabel.com/victim-fashionst
  40. Outi Les Pyy. (n.d.). elina priha varsity. Outi Les Pyy. Retrieved from https://outilespyy.com/elina-priha-varsity/
  41. Park, Y. D. (2016, March 16). [래;코드] 옷이 다시 태어나는 곳, 래;코드 아뜰리에를 가다 [[RE;CODE] The place where clothes reborn, visiting the atelier of RE;CODE]. The Funtastic. Retrieved from https://blog.kolon.com/807
  42. Patagonia. (n.d.). How We Turn Scraps into New Gear. Patagonia. Retrieved from https://www.patagonia.com/stories/second-stories/story-74520.html
  43. Raeburn, C. (n.d.). Remade, Reduced, Recycled and Raeburn. Design for longevity. Retrieved from https://designforlongevity.com/videos/remade-reduced-recycled-and-raeburn
  44. Rakestraw, A. (2019, November 13). Patagonia Launches ReCrafted Collection of Upcycled Old Gear. Field Mag. Retrieved from https://www.fieldmag.com/articles/patagonia-recrafted-worn-wear-upcycled-patchwork-apparel
  45. RE;CODE. (n.d.-a). 19SS LOOKBOOK. Kolon Mall. Retrieved from https://www.kolonmall.com/Brand/Collection/DEFAULT?no=1760&brand=6442
  46. RE;CODE. (n.d.-b). [RE;CODE] 백 패치 티셔츠 (티셔츠+에코백 SET) [[RE;CODE] Back patched T-shirts (T-shirts+Ecobag SET)]. Kolon Mall. Retrieved from https://www.kolonmall.com/Product/RJTCM20501WHX?brand=6442
  47. Redress Design Award. (2015, June 10 ). Reconstruction is the process of making new clothes from previously worn garments or performed finished products. Facebook. Retrieved from https://www.facebook.com/RedressDesignAward/photos/reconstruction-is-the-process-of-making-new-clothes-from-previously-worn-garment/991983297503291/
  48. Redress Design Award. (2019, August 15). The Redress Design Award 2019 finalists showcase signature looks at 'break through' photoshoot. Redress Design Award. Retrieved from https://www.redressdesignaward.com/news/2019/8/15/theredress-design-award-2019-finalists-showcase-signature-lo oks-at-break-through-photoshoot
  49. Redress Design Award. (n.d.-a). Amandah Andersson: Redress Design Award 2014/15 Finalist. Redress Design Award. Retrieved from https://www.redressdesignaward.com/alumni/2014-15/amandah-andersson
  50. Redress Design Award. (n.d.-b). Carina Roca Portella: Redress Design Award 2019 Runner-up prize winner. Redress Design Award. Retrieved from https://www.redressdesignaward.com/2019/carina-roca-portella
  51. Redress Design Award. (n.d.-c). Kate Morris: Redress Design Award 2017 First prize winner. Redress Design Award. Retrieved from https://www.redressdesignaward.com/alumni/2017/kate-morris
  52. Redress Design Award. (n.d.-d). Maddie WIlliams: Redress Design Award 2019 First prize winner. Redress Design Award. Retrieved from https://www.redressdesignaward.com/2019/maddie-williams
  53. Redress Design Award. (n.d.-e). Patrycja Guzik: Redress Design Award 2015/16 1st prize & Special prize winner / 2019 Alumni prize winner & 2020 all star. Redress Design Award. Retrieved from https://www.redressdesignaward.com/alumni/2015-16/patrycja-guzik
  54. Sark, K. (2011, July 31). MILCH Eco Fashion from Vienna. Suites Culturelles. Retrieved from https://suitesculturelles.wordpress.com/2011/07/31/milch-eco-fashion-from-vienna/
  55. Shell, R. H. (2014). Shoddy heap: a material history between waste and manufacture. History and Technology: An International Journal, 30(4), 374-394. doi:10.1080/07341512.2014.1003165
  56. Shim, S., Kim, J., & Na, Y. (2018). An exploratory study on upcycling as the sustainable clothing life at home. Fashion and Textiles, 5:14. doi:10.1186/s40691-018-0129-1
  57. Small, G. B. (2016, May 1). continued from above: the new EVJ13special for Hotoveli. StyleZeitgeist. Retrieved from http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?7432-Geoffrey-B-Small&p=516375&viewfull=1#post516375
  58. Solmate Socks. (n.d.) Carnation Knee Socks. Solmate Socks. Retrieved from https://solmatesocks.com/products/adult-kneesocks-carnation?variant=7581138223170
  59. The fashion foot. (2014, February 25). Eco Spotlight: Karen Jessen from Benu Berlin. Fashion Foot. Retrieved from https://edanafashion.wordpress.com/2014/02/25/eco-spotlight-karen-jessen-from-benu-berlin/
  60. Thomas, K. (2020). Cultures of sustainability in the fashion industry. Fashion Theory, 24(5), 715-742. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2018.1532737
  61. Wang, K. H. (2014). A study on characteristics of materials types in upcycling bag design. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 20(2), 337-351.
  62. Wang, Y. (2010). Fiber and textile waste utilization. Waste and Biomass Valorization, 1(1), 135-143. doi:10.1007/s12649-009-9005-y
  63. Wiederhold, M., & Martinez, L. F. (2018). Ethical consumer behaviour in Germany: The attitude-behaviour gap in the green apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 42(4), 419-429. doi:10.1111/ijcs.12435
  64. Yoo, H. S. (2012). Ethical fashion in the fashion industry - Focusing on the actualization of sustainable fashion -. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 12(2), 39-57.
  65. Zero Waste Daniel. (n.d.). about. Zero Waste Daniel. Retrieved from http://zerowastedaniel.com/aboutzwd
  66. Zero Waste Daniel. (2020, April 21). My camera roll - which custom #denim is your favorite? Instagram. Retrieved from https://www.instagram.com/p/B_NcOm-gqTb/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link