This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.
The purpose of this study is to comprehend the color and the coloration of Han-bok on the oil-painting of modern Korea. Generally, the modern Korean art is from late 19th to early 1980s' for the lowest year. Through the introduction of oil painting and the painter's work which had been reflected painter's realism at these times, we might know that the phases of the times and we could see a Korean costume and color combination. In this study, Han-bok is divided to upper clothes, lower clothes and the other parts which was distinguished by the color. The color of Han-bok which is watched on the modern art oil-painting is mainly white. The primary color including red, yellow, blue and middle tone colors is in harmony. It means that the five colors of Yin-Yang Wu-hsing were preferred until the modern times. The coloration of Han-bok is classified to a one-colored arrangement, two-colored arrangement and three-colored arrangement. The one-colored arrangement by white and black is a peculiar coloration to the modern times. The two-colored arrangement is a traditional coloration of Han-bok. The color which is high value and chroma is arranged on jacket, Jeogori. A dimension rate that is related with the difference of value and chroma made a visual harmony. In many cases of the two-colored arrangement of neutral colors is not much different in Jeogori and Chima. So Han-bok which is two-colored arrangement of neutral colors is colored in a breast- tie, pigtail ribbon, cuff and waist band for getting visual focus. The represented three-colored arrangement is white Jeogori and navy blue Chima with red breast-tie. It is a perfect visual color combination. The color of Han-bok was inherited a traditional color and the combination of neutral color was balanced. It was a refinable coloration system according to a difference of value and chroma. It means that a color sensation and arrangement of Korean have been developed by our unique climate, nations and the culture which has been formed for a long times.
The purpose of this study was to closely examine the history of glasses and their cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty and identify inherent quality of our traditional glasses cases through color analyses of glasses cases' material and shape. While theoretical examination was conducted based on the literatures of glasses and their cases that firstly appeared in around Japanese Invasion (Imjin war) of Korea in 1592, practical analyses were demonstrated on photos of glasses cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty collected from both museum pieces and the internet which were grouped into wood, fabric, paper, sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn in accordance with their materials. 623 color samples were abstracted from collected 159 glasses cases and quantity analyses on each material were performed respectively. Abstracted representative colors based on the result of color analyses were classified into the main materials and accessories' color scheme. The result of this study are as follow: firstly, both Yellow and Yellow Red were mostly used in main materials. In Fabric case's colors were widely used in embroidery and in animal matter material cases such as sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn, which can be used as itself or dyed, Green Yellow shown in high frequency. Secondly, accessories were analyzed into similarity coloration with main materials. From this finding, it turns out that our traditional cases have characteristic of similarity coloration between main materials and accessories. Red Purple and Purple Blue in high frequency in accessories used as an accent color. Finally, based on the analysis of hue and tone, while the middle and low value colors shown in very high frequency, the high-chroma colors hardly shown.
This study was carried out to investigate K/S values, surface color, the fastness to washing, bacteria reduction rate of the silk and cotton fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract under the various dyeing conditions. The optimum dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing pH and repetition of the silk fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract were $l00^{\circ}C, 30min., pH 5, five times repetition respectively, but in the cotton fabrics, it were $60^{\circ}C . 30min., pH 7, one times repetition. It were colored orangish Yellow in the silk fabrics and colored bright yellow in the cotton fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extract. Surface color(munsell value) was not changed by the mordanting agents but those of the silk showed high tone when mordanting with stannous chloride, and it was decolored and darked when mordanting with ferric sulfate. The fastness to washing in the silk fabrics dyed with mordanting agents improved in 4~5 grade, but the cotton fabrics were 3~4 grade, so washing fastness of the silk and cotton fabrics were significantly improved when washing with the neutral detergent. The bacteria reduction rate of the silk fabrics increased drastically by dyeing of Rhus verniciflua extract.
Examined in this study were the effects of copper oxide (II) addition and sintering conditions on the chromatic characteristics of copper glaze. Oxidatively sintered samples exhibited the negative increase of $CIEa^*$ and the positive increase of $CIEb^*$ with the increase of CuO concentration, leading to Green and Green-Yellow coloration. On the other hand, $CIEa^*$ and $CIEb^*$ of reductively sintered samples were positively increased in direct proportion. The green color of oxidatively sintered samples was originated from the $Cu^{2+}$ ions formed by the dissolution of CuO. The reductively sintered samples resulted in dull tone red color with low chroma. Such behavior seems to be influenced by the interplay of metal Cu aggregation, metal Cu globule, and $Cu_2O$ formed in the glaze layer through the redox interaction of CuO during the sintering process.
This study were carried out to investigate the effects of mordants and mordanting methods under the various dyeing conditions such as temperature, time, pH, repetition of dyeing in the silk fabrics with Petasites japonicus leaf. It was the most high K/S values of the silk fabrics dyed with Petasites japonicus leaf according to co mordanting and used cupric sulfate, ferric sulfate as mordanting agents. K/S values of the silk fabrics dyed with Petasites japonicus leaf were increased gradually with dyeing temperature, dyeing time, repetition of dyeing was higher and the optimum pH was pH 7. Silk fabrics were colored yellowish orange and surface color(munsell value) was changed from 8.3YR to 2.0Y by using mordanting agents and those of the silk showed high tone when mordanting with cupric sulfate but decolored and darked when mordanting with ferric sulfate. Washing fastness of silk fabrics were good in 4 ~ 5 grade, so washing fastness of the silk fabrics was significantly improved when washed with the neutral detergent.
Many of the natural dyes used for natural dyeing are difficult to maintain colorfastness due to their complex structure and specific properties. Therefore, there is a need for developing of color sustainable ability for use as an advanced coloring agent for fabrics, which would eco benign or not. In this study, the natural dye extracted from the waste of grape fruits was used to dye cotton fabric. Thus, the present study aims at extraction of color from grape seeds, skin, and stem through fermentation and then employing the same in dyeing and mordanting of cotton. Dyeing experiments were done under different conditions of fermentation and protein type mordants which were treated before and after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were used with cotton after scouring. Color value of dyed fabrics and color fastness of cotton dyed fabrics to washing and light were measured. The fastness of dyed experimental fabrics was increased by mordanting of protein fermentation and the color of dyed cotton was light red purple. The color of dyed fabric found with the optimum mordant treatment when treated with pre milk-mordant at $40^{\circ}C$ for 30min and 3% grape seed extract. On the whole, reddish tone very slightly increased with the milk pre-mordant. The color fastness of dyed cotton fabrics to light and washing was increased after fermentation.
This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.
The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.
In order to clarify an availability of water treatment for persimmon extract dyeing, effect of color developing by water treatment process on cotton fabrics dyed with persimmon extract was investigated. Dyed fabrics were dipped still water and circulation water in various temperature. Concerning water color developing, still water color developing and circulation water color developing have been examined, and the temperature of water has been apprehended to prepare an effective basis of water color development. The surface color based on circulation water color development displays low values of $a^{\ast}$ and $b^{\ast}$, and the range of the c value(Munsell chroma) is narrow and has the value of 2 to 3, thus displays the coloration of a dark tone. The effect of temperature in water color development was insignificant, due to the small difference in temperature from $20^{\circ}C$ to $40^{\circ}C$. At $80^{\circ}C$, remarkable color development manifested, which is evidence of the high influence of temperature. The effects of circulation were clear at low temperatures, and the effects of temperature highly manifested at high temperatures. Circulation water color development display great color development at all temperatures to allow industrial color development with the absence of sunlight, thereby having an effect of energy reduction and developing color in dark tones, however this also is a strength of persimmon extract concerning color diversification, and is judged to have great value of industrial and practical application.
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