• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.108-116
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• 2009

The present study introduces a Legendre interpolation function which is capable of analyzing wave transformation effectively in a finite element method. A Lagrangian interpolation function has been mostly used for a finite element method with a higher-order interpolation function. Although this function has an advantage of giving an accurate result with less number of elements, simulation time increases. Calculation time can be reduced by mass lumping, whereas the accuracy of solution is lowered. In this study, we introduce a modified Lagrangian interpolation function, Legendre cardinal interpolation, which can reduce simulation time with keeping up favorable accuracy. Through various numerical simulations using a Boussinesq equations model, the superiority of the Legendre cardinal interpolation function to a Lagrangian interpolation function was shown.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.38-49
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• 2015

Past study of tsunami heavily relied on the numerical modelling using 2D Boussinesq Eq. and Solitary wave. Lately, based on the fact that numerically simulated run up heights based on solitary wave are somewhat smaller than the measured one, Leading Depression N (LDN) Wave has been elaborated, which can account the advancement of a shore line before tsunami strikes a shore. Thereafter it is reported that more accurate simulation can be possible once LDN is deployed. On the other hand, there were numerous reports indicating that stable LDN wave can't be sustained in the hydraulic model test. These conflicts between the hydraulic model tests and numerical results have their roots on the assumption made in the derivation of Boussinesq type wave model such as that wave nonlinearity is equally balanced with wave dispersiveness. Hence, in the numerical simulation based on the Boussinesq type wave model, wave dispersiveness is inevitably underestimated, especially in deep water. Based on this rationale, we developed the modified methodology for the generation of stable LDN wave in the 3D numerical wave flume, and proceeded to numerically analyze the depression effect of Hybrid Breaker on the run up height due to tsunami using the Navier Stoke Equation. The verification of newly proposed wave model in this study was carried out using the run up height from the hydraulic model test. It was shown that Hybrid Breaker consisting of three water chamber and slope at its front can reduce 13% of run up height for H = 5m, and 10% of run up height for H = 6m.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.61-72
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• 2016

In Korea, the aquifers at the coastal areas are mostly shallow alluvial unconfined aquifers. To simulate the flow and dispersion in unconfined aquifer, a FDM model has been developed to solve the nonlinear Boussinesq equation. Related analysis and verification have been executed. The iteration method is used to solve the nonlinearity, and the model shows 3-D shape because it is a 2-D y model that consider the undulation of water table and bottom. For the verification of the model, the output of flow module is compared to the 1-D analytic solution of Lee (1989) which have the drawdown or uplift boundary condition, and the two results show almost the same value. and the mass balance of dispersion module shows about 10% error. The developed model can be used for the analysis and design of the flow and dispersion in the unconfined aquifers. The model has been applied to the estuary area of Ssangcheon watershed, and the parameters have been deduced as a result : hydraulic conductivity is 90 m/day, and longitudinal dispersivity is 15 m. And the analysis with these parameters shows that the wells are situated in the influence circle of each others except for No. 7 well. Groundwater discharge to sea is $3700m^3/day$. And the chlorine ion ($cl^-$) concentration at the pumping wells increase at least 1000 mg/L if groundwater dam is not exist, so the groundwater dam plays an important role for the prevention of sea water intrusion.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.527-537
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• 2003

The characteristics of ship induced waves caused by navigation become widely different from both ship's speed and water depth condition. The ship induced waves specially generated in coastwise routes frequently give rise to call unforeseen danger for swimmers and small boats as well as shoreline erosion or sea wall destruction in coastal zones. The main concern of ship induced wave study until now is either how to reduce ship resistance or how to manoeuvre the ship safely under a constant water depth in the view point of shipbuilding engineers. Moreover, due to the trends for appearance of the high speed ships at the shallow coastal water, we are confronted with the danger of damages from those ship induced waves. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the development of ship induced waves and the influence of their deformation effects according to its propagation ray. In present study, in order to predict the development of the ship induced waves and their propagation under the conditions of complicate and variable shallow water depth with varying ship's speed, we constructed a computer model using Boussinesq equation with a fixed coordinate system and verified the model results by comparison with experimental results. Additionally, the model was applied under the variable water depth based on actual passage and we then confirmed the importance of the variable water depth consideration.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.593-618
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• 2011

This paper deals with the problem of the determination of the response of a viscoelastic Bernoulli-Navier beam, which is resting on an elastic medium. Assuming uniaxial bending, the displacement of the beam axis is governed by an integro-differential equation. The compatibility of the displacements between the beam and the elastic medium is imposed through an integral equation. In general and in particular in the case of a Boussinesq medium, the solution has to be pursued numerically. On the contrary, in the case of a Winkler's medium the compatibility equation becomes a linear finite relationship, which allows finding an original analytical solution of the problem for both hereditary and aging behavior of the beam. Some numerical examples complete the paper, in which a comparison is made between the hereditary and the aging model for the creep of the beam.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.61-78
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• 1995

In this study the method of analysis for three-dimensional plane crack problem by fractional linear mapping is given. Using this method we can obtain the exact solutions of significantly different configurations of the crack. In the example image crack configurations by mapping of elliptic crack are illustrated. And the stress intensity factors along the image crack tips are calculated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.125-130
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• 2006

Waves, which are the main source of ship motions in a seaway, considerably affect the performance of a ship. The study of waves and their impact on ship motions within harbors is an important aspect of the design and operation of harbors. The prediction of incoming groups of waves is particularly important for evaluating ship motion within a harbor. Such a prediction makes it possible to evaluate ship safety more accurately. The wave transformation model reported here is applied to actual ports based on Boussinesq wave equations both non-linear and dispersive wave processes be considered in order to capture physical effects such as wave shoaling, refractions, reflection and diffraction in variable depth environments. The prediction of incoming groups of waves is particularly important for evaluating ship motion within a harbor, Such a prediction makes it possible to evaluate ship safety more accurately and provide safe wave informations for navigation. Furthermore, a wave information support system is proposed for entering ships as one technique for improving the safety of ship operations. This system predicts the run of waves and reduces the danger by identifying the most dangerous point near the harbor entrance at the small wave groups.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.579-587
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• 2007

Samchunpo(Sin Hyang) Harbor is located in the bay of Sa Chun, the central south coast of Korean peninsula. The harbor and coastal boundaries have been protecting by natural coastal islands and shoals. Currently, The Sin Hyang harbor needs maintenance and renovation of the sheltered structures against the weather deterioration and typhoon damages. Consequently to support this, the calculation of accurate design wave through the typhoon wave attack is necessary. In this study, calculation of incident wave condition is simulated using steady state spectrum energy wave model(wide area wave model) from 50 years return wave condition. And this simulation results in wide offshore area were used for the input of the extended mild slope wave model at the narrow coastal area. Finally, the calculation of design wave at Sin Hyang harbor entrance was induced by Boussinesq wave model(detail area wave model) simulation. The numerical model system was able to simulate wave transformations from generation scale to shoreline or harbor impact. We hope these results will be helpful to the engineers doing placement, design, orientation, and evaluation of a wide range of potential solutions in this area.