• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

Fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier incorporated his own boundless and unique artistic Into his design of dance costumes, presenting an unobstructed imaginary world that was filled with freedom, which is no less than one would expect from the one-time enfant t${\'{e}}$rrible of Paris fashion. This creativity of Gaultier was made possible only through the fantastic partnership he formed with the French modern dancer, R${\'{e}}$gine Chopinot. Gaultier and Chopinot shared a deep-rooted sympathy that enabled their own artistic worlds to fully mingle and cross over, resulting in a doubled synergy of their talent and their fame. This study analyzed 11 dancing costumes created through the collaborated efforts of those two enfants t${\'{e}}$rribles, one from the fashion industry and the other from the world of dance. The following are the results of my analysis. Gaultier's dance costumes served as a artistic venue for experimenting with a number of creative inspirations lurking in his mind, which were sometimes expressed in pr${\^{e}}$t-${\`{a}}$-porter collections. Instead of the decorative and expressive features of conventional dance costumes, his was the revival of the dancer's persona as a human being, ablaze with individuality and uniqueness. He pointed out that there is no good in the distorted turturro's fixed point of view, and the great joy of an opposing way of thinking that overturned the established. Leotard material was used as a second skin by transforming it into various styles and delivering his message. In addition, obscene and sexual expressions were delivered in a direct narrative. His eccentric ideas provided entertainment while showing his oppositional way of thinking. In the dance, the effect of the costumes was doubled by the use of cumbersome and exaggerated accessories, which is generally forbidden in modern dance.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2010

An important change started in knitwear fashion in the 1980s. Advanced designers in Japan began to provide a new interpretation on knitwear, and seamless knitwear based on computerized machinery appeared. Knitwear fashion showed differences starting the 1980s due to this change. In this regard, the study aimed to analyze knitwear fashion after the 1980s where the contemporary knitwear experienced changes to define characteristics of modern knitwear fashion and examine its inherent formative nature. Designs for 30 years from 1980s up to date have been analyzed by 10 years in order to identify the characteristics of knitwear fashion over time. In particular, formative characteristics of modern knitwear fashion have been analyzed in more depth with a focus on the period from 2001 through 2010 by narrowing the whole period. Insufficient domestic literatures and visual materials led the study to mostly use foreign books and internet sites. Insights of 7 professionals who have engaged themselves in knitwear industry over 10 years have been incorporated into this study, which will enhance the reliability of the formative analysis. As a result, the data have been organized into three tools of analysis, including exposed bodies, transformed bodies and natural bodies from the perspectives of expression and silhouette of body, and the features of flexibility, industrial artistry, innovation and sensuality have been highlighted in terms of formativeness. In this regard, it has been confirmed that the formative nature found in the knitwear fashion exists in the scope of the formative nature in the embryonic period of the knitwear fashion. It means that the formative nature of knitwear fashion contains perpetuity that transcends an age.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.72-86
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• 2013

This research aims to analyze the expressive characteristics of the fashion illustration in various fashion products such as clothing, accessories, other fashion products, and magazine advertisements. Targeting 223 items of products that had adjoined fashion illustration from 2000 to 2008, which had been collected through from magazines and web sites using the fashion illustration expression categorization (expression technique drawing style, body expression, expression image, attaching method to product) based on the theoretical background and the general trends by products. In frequency analysis results, painting technique and graphic technique were of great importance in the expression technique, and shading drawing and contour drawing were of great importance over all product groups for the drawing style. In body expression, exaggerative expression was the highest; simple expression and realistic expression were of great importance over all product groups relatively. In particular, there was a very distinct difference by fashion products in expression image. Humor image has the most importance in fashion clothing and fashion accessories. Casual image is the most important in magazine advertisements, and feminine image is the most important for other fashion products. Lastly, in attaching method to products, finished goods printings made up the largest proportion over all products. In fashion clothing, textile printings was the highest in proportions. Stitch in fashion accessory, the original form of commodity in other fashion products. This study will become a very valuable source in fashion products development using fashion illustrations.

• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.116-130
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• 2017

Consumers who purchase products from foreign countries and deliver them back to Korea are increasing. According to the Korea Fashion & Textile News (2015), overseas direct shopping reported 39% increase compared to 2013. Furthermore, clothes accounted for 19% of product category. Therefore, the service quality of overseas purchase sites is becoming more important, but studies have been limited. this research focuses on investigating the effects of consumers' shopping orientation on service quality and the effects of service quality on trust, satisfaction, and consumer loyalty. The survey was administered to consumers who had experiences in purchasing through overseas direct purchase websites. The results showed that the perception of service quality differed depending on the respondent's shopping orientation. Among the four shopping orientation groups(shopping confidence, shopping enjoyment, trend pursuit, and shopping follower groups), the shopping confidence group showed the highest mean for all service quality factors. All the groups showed the highest scores on product and trust among the factors of service quality. Next, the results revealed that service quality positively influenced consumers' trust on websites that provide overseas direct purchase services, which further improved customer loyalty. Therefore, the study gives managerial suggestions to online retailers that provide oversea shopping service. They need to provide higher site efficiency, security, product reliability, and responsiveness to cultivate international customers' trust and satisfaction. In particular, it will be important for them to offer accurate, reliable product information and various languages for overseas customers.

• Elastomers and Composites
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.10-21
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• 2011

최근 자동차 산업의 발전과 더불어 수요자의 요구가 다양화, 고급화됨에 따라 차량의 흡/차음에 대한 관심이 크게 증가하고 있다. 일반적으로 차내의 소음과 진동을 줄일 수 있도록 하기 위하여 섬유재료(펠트, 유리섬유), 폴리우레탄 foam, PET 섬유재료 등과 같은 소음진동 흡수재료를 사용되고 있다. 이러한 소음 진동을 위한 흡/차음재료들은 자동차에 장착되어 다양한 부분에서 발생하는 소음 및 진동을 차단하여 쾌적한 승차감을 주는 주요한 부품으로 자리잡고 있다. 또한, 차량의 소음 진동 제거를 위한 자동차용 흡/차음재료의 요구는 최근들어 더욱 높아지고 있으며 소음 진동 저감 이외에 연비개선을 위한 경량화, 비용절감 등도 함께 고려되고 있다. 따라서 본고에서는 자동차 내장 흡/차음재료의 필요성과 더불어 관련기술에 대하여 중심으로 살펴보도록 하겠다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.85-100
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• 2011

The objective of this study was to analyze body measurements, BMI and body type according to age in the male and female groups based on 3D scan body measurement data of adult men and women in their 20's~30's and to provide basic information usable in the clothing and fashion industry. For this purpose, we analyzed 3D scan body measurement data of 848 adults measured in the 6th Size Korea project and the results were as follows. First, there were differences in 3D scan body measurements according to age in the male and female groups, and in general the measurements of the height items were larger in younger adults and the measurements of the circumference, breadth and depth items were larger in older ones. Second, there were differences in 3D scan body measurements according to BMI in the male and female groups, and in general body measurements were largest in the obesity group and lowest in the underweight group. Third, BMI was different according to gender and in general BMI was higher in men and obesity and overweight were more frequent in men than in women. Moreover, BMI was significantly different according to age and was higher in the 30's than in the 20's. Fourth, the mean difference in the drop and lower drop values according to age in the male and female groups was significant, and the drop and lower drop values were lower in the 30's than in the 20's. These results are considered meaningful as data for the development of clothing size systems, patterns and grading in the areas of clothing and fashion targeting consumers in their 20's~30's.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권12호
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• pp.1454-1465
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• 2011

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.