Browse > Article

A Study on the Formative Nature of Knitwear Fashion since the 1980s - Focusing on Expression and Silhouette of the Body -  

Choi, Gwang-Don (FCNK)
Geum, Gi-Suk (Dept. of Textile & Fashion Design, Hong-Ik University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume / v.60, no.9, 2010 , pp. 162-175 More about this Journal
Abstract
An important change started in knitwear fashion in the 1980s. Advanced designers in Japan began to provide a new interpretation on knitwear, and seamless knitwear based on computerized machinery appeared. Knitwear fashion showed differences starting the 1980s due to this change. In this regard, the study aimed to analyze knitwear fashion after the 1980s where the contemporary knitwear experienced changes to define characteristics of modern knitwear fashion and examine its inherent formative nature. Designs for 30 years from 1980s up to date have been analyzed by 10 years in order to identify the characteristics of knitwear fashion over time. In particular, formative characteristics of modern knitwear fashion have been analyzed in more depth with a focus on the period from 2001 through 2010 by narrowing the whole period. Insufficient domestic literatures and visual materials led the study to mostly use foreign books and internet sites. Insights of 7 professionals who have engaged themselves in knitwear industry over 10 years have been incorporated into this study, which will enhance the reliability of the formative analysis. As a result, the data have been organized into three tools of analysis, including exposed bodies, transformed bodies and natural bodies from the perspectives of expression and silhouette of body, and the features of flexibility, industrial artistry, innovation and sensuality have been highlighted in terms of formativeness. In this regard, it has been confirmed that the formative nature found in the knitwear fashion exists in the scope of the formative nature in the embryonic period of the knitwear fashion. It means that the formative nature of knitwear fashion contains perpetuity that transcends an age.
Keywords
expression of the body; flexibility; industrial artistry; innovation; sensuality;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Buxbaum, G. (1999). Icons of Fashion (The 20th century). New York, London: Prestel, p. 126.
2 남후남 (2005). 패션디자인에 표현된 브레스트의 조형성 연구. 홍익대학교 대학원 박사학위논문, p. 79.
3 Crail, J. (1993). The Face of Fashion. 정인회 외 역 (2001). 패션의 얼굴. 서울: 푸른솔, p. 122.
4 이미숙, 조규화 (1999). 샤넬 스타일의 변천과 조형적 특성에 관한 연구. 한국 패션비즈니스학회, 3(2), p. 13.
5 Spilker, K. D., Takeda, S. S. (2007). Breaking the Mode. Milano: Skira, p. 143.
6 Crail, J. (1993). The Face of Fashion. 정인회 외 역 (2001). 패션의 얼굴. 서울: 푸른솔, p. 35.
7 Schmid, B, & Loscheck, I. (2001). The Classic of Fashion. 황현숙 역 (2001). 패션의 클래식. 예경, p. 21.
8 자료검색일 2010. 5. 7, 자료출처 http://www.sandrabacklund.com
9 자료검색일 2010. 6. 15, 자료출처 http://www.firstviewkorea.com
10 Buxbaum, G. (1999). Icons of Fashion (The 20th century). New York, London: Prestel, p.85.
11 Gap Japan (2001). Gap Press. Tokyo, p. 141.
12 김민자 (2004). 복식미학강의1. 교문사, p. 52.
13 바자 편집국 (2009. 12). BAZZAR. 서울: 가야미디어, p. 256.
14 허정선 (2004). 패션 아트의 신체 공간에 관한 연구. 홍익대학교 대학원 박사학위논문.
15 柏木博. (1992). Design of the 20th century. 강현주. 최선녀 역 (2009). 20세기의 디자인. 서울: 서울하우스, p. 21.
16 京都服飾文化硏究財団(2002). ファツシヨソ(18世紀か ら現代まで). Tokyo: TASCHEN, p. 47.
17 남후남 (2005). 패션디자인에 표현된 브레스트의 조형성 연구. 홍익대학교 대학원 박사학위논문, p. 122.
18 Black, S. (2002). Knitwear in fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 60.
19 김영인 외 9人(2006). Look(패션을 보는 아홉 가지시선. 교문사, p. 28.
20 자료검색일 2010. 6. 26, 자료출처 http://www.firstview.com
21 Black, S. (2002). Knitwear in fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 127.
22 Spilker, K. D., Takeda, S. S. (2007). Breaking the Mode. Milano: Skira, p. 146.
23 강희명 (2004). 20세기 전반기 추상회화를 모티프로 한 니트 디자인 연구. 동덕여자대학교 대학원 박사학위논문.
24 권진 (2005). 현대 니트웨어의 니트기법 특성에 관한 연구. 세종대학교 대학원 박사학위논문.
25 Baudo, F. (1997). Yohji Yamamoto. Paris: SCHIR MER / MOSTEL, p. 18.
26 박문희 (2009). 현대 니트패션에 나타난 혼합현상. 한양대학교 대학원 박사학위논문.
27 Martin, R., Koda, H. (1996). Infra Apparel. 이선재 역 (1996). 인프라 의상. 경춘사, p. 100.
28 Wilcox, C. (2001). Radical Fashion. London: V&A, p. 31.
29 京都服飾文化硏究財団(2002). ファツシヨソ(18世紀か ら現代まで). Tokyo: TASCHEN, p. 645.
30 京都服飾文化硏究財団(1999). Vision of body. Kyoto: Kyoto Costume lustitude, p. 91.
31 Buxbaum, G. (1999). Icons of Fashion (The 20th century). New York, London: Prestel. p. 144.
32 京都服飾文化硏究財団(2002). ファツシヨソ(18世紀か ら現代まで). Tokyo: TASCHEN, p. 708.
33 Black, S. (2002). Knitwear in fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, p. 90.