• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.364-371
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• 2015

This study investigated and analyzed Sadanggut for General Namyi, Agisee Gutdang in Haengdang-dong, Dodanggut in Bonghwa Mountainto examine the type and characteristics of official hats for shaman's costumes based on Seoul village gutas a spiritualistic shaman revealing the divinity of music for gutthrough singing, dancing, divine material and official hats. Commonly worn official hats were Goggal(conical hats), Jeonlip(soldier's felt hats), and Heuklip(black hats) for Seoul village gut as the object of thisstudy. Each official hat had a close relationship with subjects for divinity and musical meaning for gut. Julip(Red hats), Jokduri(bride's headpiece), helmets, Iksubgwan(King's official hat), and Daesu(Queen's a big wig with various hairpins) were also worn. Official hats worn for Seoul village gutwere understood to symbolize divinity and raise authority and dignity to the public through aggressive appearance, exaggeration and splendor. Concretely, official hats at Seoul village gut first had roles to materialize the divinity of each music of gut. Second, recognized as a part of performance or traditional culture in present day, aggressive official hats were favored to supply splendid attraction and maximize scenes of divined heroic epic poem in gut. Third, for Seoul village gut, colors and silhouettes of modern traditional costumes were reflected pursuing partial change and focused on exaggeration and splendor to express the mirth and festival of gutwhile maintaining traditional costumes.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.261-265
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• 2002

To propose a basic material that can improve the crumples in the knee area and can be applied as an element of garment design, the present study examined the elongation rates of the samples by differentiating the number of cutting lines according to the direction of the fabric, and then determined the puckering phenomenon by judging the conditions of the seams based on the looks of seam lines after bi-axil elongation. After the subjective evaluation on the knee areas of both the standard and modified trousers, the following conclusion was drawn : The elongation rates of the samples are: warp (3.98%)cross-legged (-0.2)>squatting down (-0.4); those in the modified trousers feel more comfortable when sitting on a chair (0.2)>cross-legged (0)>squatting down (-0.6). In the cross-legged posture, the modified trousers (0) has higher scores in the subjective evaluation than the standard ones (-0.2). The evaluation on the looks of needleworks in the samples with cutting lines along the direction of the fabric: weft2 (5.0)

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.582-589
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate problems of design, fitness, suitability for movement, and comfort in current Korean military tank driver's clothing through analysis of actual wearing condition by questionnaire and field evaluation and. to provide basic data for developing a improved design of Korean military tank driver's clothing. The survey was done for 477 military tank driver and the field evaluation was also done for evaluation. The overall satisfaction for design of military tank driver's clothing(3.25) was higher than that for the easiness in wearing and taking off(2.76). The military tank drivers evaluated that current coverall type of clothing is more suitable than two-piece type of clothing. The overall satisfaction for fitness of clothing was as a whole low(2.82~3.09), Especially, the satisfaction for fitness of from front and back rise length was the lowest one. In the satisfaction for clothing materials, the satisfaction for the breathability of material was the lowest, followed by clothing insulation and air permeability. The satisfaction for movement was low in bending waist and raising forward and aside. The part which surveyors think most dissatisfactory was also front and back rise length. The frequency in use of pocket was the highest in chest pocket, followed by waist and pants pockets. The satisfaction for opening easiness of hips opening part was very low(2.64).

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.5
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• pp.430-436
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to obtain the basic data on the self-adjusting ability of the support panty stockings. Ten healthy women in the twenties were selected as subjects and clothing pressure of 9 support panty stockings made of single covered yarn (SCY) and double covered yarn (DCY) were measured under the standard environmental condition for the study. Data was analysed statistically according to body postures, sides, and parks. The results were as follows: Clothing pressure according to body posture was order of 'sitting-on-a-chair', 'stepping-up-a-stair', and 'standing'. High clothing pressure was obtained in the parts of calf ($9.4gf/cm^2$) in 'standing' and knee (9.7 and $16.5gf/cm^2$) in both 'stepping-up-a-stair' and 'sitting-on-a-chair', respectively. The order of clothing pressure with body sides was 'front', 'side', and 'back'. The highest clothing pressure was knee ($18.8gf/cm^2$) on the front, thigh ($8.8gf/cm^2$) on the side, and calf ($6.4gf/cm^2$) on the back. Clothing pressure of DCY at abdomen and knee was a little higher than those of SCY 3. In terms of material structure variation, clothing pressure of thigh, calf and ankle with SCY was a little higher than those with DCY, while clothing pressure of abdomen and knee with DCY was a little higher than those with SCY.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.229-235
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• 2014

This study conducted a research on burn-out printing convergence technology for cellulose blend knit fabrics. Printing technology, which forms color pattern on the fabric, can be generally classified into four according to printer or printing method, e.g. screen printing, roller printing, rotary printing, digital printing. However, these printing methods are flat in design or pattern, which have limitation to overcome monotonousness of fabric, so that recently burn-out process method, which expresses three-dimensional pattern effect by treating chemical on the surface of fabric as the method to appeal its esthetics to the customers. Particularly, in case of cellulose/polyester composite material, first, it is proceeded in 2 processes, by dyeing cellulose or polyester fabric and burning out cellulose fabric, in this process, due to pollution caused by disperse dye migration, color of polyester fabric part could be discolored, which has high falt risk. This research considered coloring burn-out technique, which simultaneously proceed dyeing and burn-out by reducing dyeing and burn-out process to 1 stage, which were proceeded in 2 stages previously. As the research result, it was confirmed that reasonable depth of roller was 0.04~0.06mm in roller printing process, heat treatment condition of burn-out far-infrared radiation was $185^{\circ}C{\times}30m/min$. Color fastness to washing was confirmed to be 4-5 grade, color fastness to rubbing, 3-4 grade, color fastness to light, 4 grade. Also, it was confirmed that energy reduction effect appeared 38.19%, in case of energy cost per yard compared to the existing production, also, 19.74%, in case of production cost.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.138-145
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• 2022

Today, graphene loaded textiles are being considered promising smart clothing due to their high conductivity. In this study, we reported reduced graphene oxide(r-GO) deposited pure cotton fabrics fabricated with a colloidal solution of graphene(GO), using a one-step aerosol spray pyrolysis(ASP) process and their potential application on smart textiles. The ASP process is advantageous in that it is easily implementable and can be applied for continuous processing. Moreover, this process has never been applied to deposit r-GO on pure cotton fabric. The field emission-scanning microscopy (FE-SEM) observation, Fourier transform-infrared(FT-IR) analysis, Raman spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction(XRD) analysis, and ultraviolet transmittance(UVT) were used to evaluate material properties of the r-GO colloids. The resistance was also measured to evaluate the electrical conductivity of the specimens. The results revealed that the r-GO was successfully deposed on specimens, and the specimen with the highest electrical conductivity demonstrated an electrical resistance value of 2.27 kΩ/sq. Taken together, the results revealed that the ASP method demonstrated a high potential for effective deposition of r-GO on cotton fabric specimens and is a prospect for the development of conductive cotton-based smart clothing. Therefore, this study is also meaningful in that the ASP process can be newly applied by depositing r-GO on the pure cotton fabric.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.694-706
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• 2022

This study focusses on the development of a motion-sensing smart leggings prototype with the help of a module that monitors motion using a fiber-type stretch sensor. Additionally, it acquires data on Electrocardiogram (ECG), respiration, and body temperature signals, for the development of smart clothing used in online exercise coaching and customized healthcare systems. The research process was conducted in the following order: 1) Fabrication of a fiber-type elastic strain sensor for motion monitoring, 2) Positioning and attaching the sensor, 3) Pattern development and three-dimensional (3D) design, 4) Prototyping 5) Wearability test, and 6) Expert evaluation. The 3D design method was used to develop an aesthetic design, and for sensing accurate signal acquisition functions, wearability tests, and expert evaluation. As a result, first, the selection or manufacturing of an appropriate sensor for the function is of utmost importance. Second, the selection and attachment method of a location that can maximize the function of the sensor without interfering with any activity should be studied. Third, the signal line selection and connection method should be considered, and fourth, the aesthetic design should be reflected along with functional verification. In addition, the selection of an appropriate material is important, and tests for washability and durability must be made. This study presented a manufacturing method to improve the functionality and design of smart clothing, through the process of developing a prototype of motion-sensing smart leggings.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.253-264
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to examine the thermal comfort characteristics of the garments for school, textile and bank worker's uniform. The garments selected for this study were frequently used in Taegu area in terms of design and material used for making garments by the survey for the study The human subject tests were performed to determine the thermal comfort characteristics of garments including thermal, humidity, and wearing sensation and the data were analysed statistically. The results of the study were as follows: 1. According to the result of the survey jacket was mostly used as a school uniform for both male and female high school students. The survey showed that 93% of male students wore 'neck T-shirts' and dimensional fitness for the school uniform got suitable at 2~3 grade high school students. In terms of human subject tests, most students rated 'uncomfortable' in wearing sensation of their school uniform. One of this reason was due to the humidity sensation and air velocity sensation. Level of significance of the thermal sensation for gender difference was higher in hands and feet of the subjects than in chest and thigh of them. 2. According to the result of the survey jacket with zipper was mostly used as a textile worker's uniform. The result of the survey indicated that some textile workers are wearing their inner wear (38.7% for upper and 46.6% for lower). In the human subject tests, about 50% of subjects rated 'comfortable to slightly comfortable' for wearing sensation of the textile worker's uniform. It showed that the female subjects of the humidity sensation was rated higher than the male subjects of the humidity sensation, while the male subjects of the thermal sensation was rated higher than the female subjects of the thermal sensation. There was a closer correlation with the subjective thermal sensation for textile worker's uniform in center parts of the subjects such as back and waist than exposed parts. 3. The result of the survey showed that 70% and 23% of the female banker uniform were blouse and jacket, respectively and 75% and 25% of the male banker uniform were jacket and T-shirt, respectively. All interviewee rated trousers and skirts that were used for their lower. 4. The result indicated that 50% male and 67.7% female subjects for the banker uniform rated 'slightly comfortable for the comfort' sensation. 50% male subjects rated 'neutral' and about 50% female subjects rated 'slightly warm to neutral' for the thermal sensation. In addition, The result showed that 75% male subjects for both upper and lower rated 'neutral' for the humidity sensation and also 75% female subjects rated 'neutral to slightly dry'. Thus, there was no significant different between gender. 5. In the thermal sensation of the subjects for the banker's uniform by parts, 50% subjects rated 'neutral' for their body parts, including head, neck, back, waist, hip, lower arm, and thigh. The extremely cold parts were hands and feet for both male and female subjects.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.237-246
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• 2005

In this study, researcher intended to extract the major factors of makeup design from Yangju-beolsandaenori-tal(masks) and Songpa-sandaenori-tal which have been handed down to the present among many kinds of the Korean folk masks, and to apply those factors to the modernization of traditional culture in terms of makeup design. The 17 Sandaenori-tals exhibited at 'The special exhibition of the Korean folk masks' in 1981 by the national folk museum of Korea were selected as the objects of this research. The formational analysis in terms of shape, color and material was conducted. The 5 factors of this analysis are as follows; face and hair, forehead, eye and eyebrows, mouth and nose. The beauty expressed in Sandaenori-tal includes naturalness, eccentricity and good-humor. The human feelings are expressed candidly and simply through naturalness. The eccentricity in Sandaenori-tal overemphasizes the shape of mask unsymmetrically. And it is expressed ghostliy in black, white and red colors. The good-humors in aesthetic viewpoint was expressed in surprised faces and innocent smile. Researcher applies the good humour to the art makeup in strong natural colors and shapes.