• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1376-1386
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate how one's visual evaluations are affected by variations in internal designs of tailored jackets. Major findings are: 1. Of the 35 pairs of adjectives, the factor analysis singled out the following five major factors (total variance of 55.62%): elegance, maturity, neatness, hard/softness, and evaluation. 2. The image of tailored jackets were found to be significantly affected by the length of its collar: jackets with long collar were perceived elegant, graceful, neat, mature and slim. 3. The number of buttons was also found to have significant impact on the image of tailored jackets: A one-button jacket, single or double, was perceived graceful, mature, formal, neat, natural, brisk, slim and so on. Its image deteriorated as the number of buttons increased. 4. Single jackets were found to be significantly different from Double jacket in their images. The former were perceived elegant, neat, and natural.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.211-217
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket focused on the variation of the length according to the body type and the degree of satisfaction with the body of middle-aged women. For this study, twenty seven different types of tailored jacket were designed with some variation of their silhouette, the length and the collar's figure on three hundred and twenty three middle-aged women ranging from 35 to 50 years old. There was a significant difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the body type of middle-aged women. The women of the body type I evaluated that tailored jackets of the long length were more attractive, graceful, and active, soft and preferred the style, and the women of the body type II and III, them of the middle length. The women of the body type I evaluated that tailored jackets of the short length were more attractive, graceful, active, soft and preferred the style. Also there was a meaningful difference in the image evaluation and the preference of tailored jacket according to the degree of satisfaction with their bodies. As satisfied with their face size, they thought tailored jackets of the long length were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style. As satisfied with the girth of the hip, they evaluated the short/long tailored jackets were more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style. As satisfied with their height they valued the long tailored jacket was more attractive, graceful and active, soft and they preferred the style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.952-959
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• 2012

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.4 s.206
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• pp.97-110
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• 2005

The need for children's formal wear is growing as parents take their children into formal occasions more often than before. Yet there are some problems to be solved in order to generalize about children's formal wear such as high price and the development of patterns for better fit and design. Mothers of boys were surveyed to find out the needs, complaints, and required improvements of boy's formal wear. Pattern designers of children's formal wear brands were interviewed to determine the size specifications, pattern drafting methods and design features of each brand. Based on these results, several pattern drafting methods were selected. Jackets and pants for 9-year-olds were made by each pattern drafting method using the us standard size. They were compared through wearing test to improve the fit. As a result, pattern drafting methods for children's tailored suits and two formal jackets were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.136-145
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• 2009

Growing needs of reducing energy consumption and enhancing creative thinking brought expanding of men's business wear market into more trendy and casual sector. As fashion trend of men's business wear has changes to casual jackets, there is need to study for the inner structure of casual jacket. The inner structure of casual jackets are different from conventional tailored jackets so that they can provide more comforts, functionality and characteristic style. The purpose of this study is to find out how the inner structure of casual jackets are made up by comparing jackets of various brands. In order to categorize the construction methods, where, how and what kind of lining, interlining, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are applied were studied. Although there are considerable varieties in making up methods, it could be concluded that casual jackets have lighter and less time and labour consuming inner structure, i.e. partial linings, fusible inter-linings, ready made sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.182-199
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• 2015

This research aims to design a new style jacket by developing patterns with dart manipulation, to achieve a tailored jacket which has been familiar to us, but with a more creative design. Tailored jackets has been widely worn both by women and men, and used to create various fashion styles. Generally the classic design with a basic lapel and collar is worn the most, and this shows demonstrates an importance of its design. Giacomo Manzu's work of relief art inspired for a creative design of tailored jackets. As a result of the analysis on the visual properties of the relief sculptures, it was found that an omissions of line for cubic effect and dramatized expression give an illusion effect. Based on the illusion effect shown in the case of a relief design, it was patterned and designed with dart manipulation. Through dart manipulation, the shape of a lapel was designed to meet the rear collar, which corresponds to a background plane, by making it like a sculpture at the front background pattern. Then it was found through dart manipulation could be extensively applied for various designs, as well as used to generate massing. Hopefully this creative pattern and design development would be helpful not only in diversification of consumer's needs, but also in the educational field for pattern and development of the fashion design industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.117-133
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• 2008

In this research, female adults in ages 25 to 34 that reside in Shanghai, China, have been polled from 29th of December, 2007 to 2nd of February, 2008 in accordance with simple random sampling method. 210 women have been selected and polled. Of these, 10 who responded in appropriately were excluded and the remaining 200 were used in the final analysis. The questionnaires used in this poll were made up of ones that are about how they wear tailored suits and how much they are satisfied with them, and questions about demographical characteristics. SPSSWIN 12.0 Program was used as the analysis method in getting statistics and descriptive statistical analysis, t-test, and $x^2$ analysis have been performed. The summary about the Chinese female adults is as follows: 1. They prefer jackets with design, style, and quality that better fit them to the ones with a name brand and a lower price. 2. They prefer shoulder princess style jackets with short lapel color lengths and slacks with a basic style in waistline. 3. When wearing jackets they feel uncomfortable in all regions and were not satisfied. 4. All responded that they have an experience of having the jackets mended after purchasing them and a high frequency of mending was shown along the waistline, hips, and leg lengths.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.37-44
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• 2009

As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.