• Korean Journal of Ichthyology
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.79-90
• /
• 1997

Monthly samples of surf zone fish at Taechon Beach were collected by a beach seine from June 1995 to May 1996, and analyzed for the species composition, abundance and community structure. Of 26 species identified, Favonigobius gymnauchen, Leiognathus nuchalis, Sillago japonica and Kareius bicoloratus predominated in abundance. In spring, the adults of resident species were dominated. A large number of juveniles of pelagic or demersal fish occupied the surf zone from summer to autumn. Fish numbers and biomass were low in winter. The species composition of the present study showed a similar seasonal trend to that obtained in 1984-85. However, demersal fish such as K. bicoloratus, Repomucenus lunatus, Johnius belengerii and Enedrias fangi, and L. nuchalis were increased, while pelagic fish such as Thrissa koreana, Sardinella zunasi and Konosirus punctatus were diminished. These changes seemed to be related to sedimentation of fine particles for demersal fish and subsequent increase in turbidity for pelagic fish after reclamation in the bay.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.455-463
• /
• 2003

Time series of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between suspended sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1)The relationship between suspended sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s where the nodal point of the first mode and the anti-nodal point of the second mode are located at the measurement point, respectively) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that suspended sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 1992.08a
• /
• pp.106-113
• /
• 1992

쇄파대에서 파고의 감쇠 및 내부유속장에 대한 이해는 표사문제 및 해안구조물의 설계 등에 있어서 중요하다(Nadaoka and Kondoh, 1982). 특히 해빈변형의 예측문제에 있어서 가장 중요한 문제의 하나는 쇄파대 내ㆍ외에서 저면마찰력과 표사량을 정도 높게 계산하는 것이다.(중략)

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2004.05b
• /
• pp.1429-1433
• /
• 2004

본 연구에서는 쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파에 대해 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험을 수행하였다. 수치해석 모형에서는 Reynolds 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 난류해석을 위해 $k-\varepsilon$모델을 적용하였으며, 자유수면변위를 추적하기 위해 VOF기법을 사용하져다. 사면 및 평탄지형상에서 발생하는 쇄파양상을 서로 다르게 설정하기 위해 수심과 입사파의 주기와 파고를 변화시킨다. 발생된 정현파의 파형은 해석해와 잘 일치하였으며, 입사파와 파고계가 설치된 위치에서 측정된 파고비 $H/H_0$는 관측값과 비교해 본 길과 놀은 정확도를 나타내었다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 1991.07a
• /
• pp.40-45
• /
• 1991

항만 건설, 매립, 임해 발전소의 걸선, 호안 축조 및 신공간 개발 등 연안역 개발시 설계 환경요소인 파랑을 정확히 예측함으로써 이러한 사업을 경제적으로 수행 할 수 있다. 특히 이들 구조물은 대부분 쇄파대내에 위치하므로 쇄파후의 파랑변형 및 Runup 등을 파악하여야 한다. 본 연구에서는 조파수조를 이용하여 쇄파후의 파고 및 Runup 등을 관측하여 경험식 및 해석해와 비교하였다.(중략)

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.33 no.6
• /
• pp.965-974
• /
• 2009

The current study reviews the formula used to calculate the stability of an artificial reef in the breaking wave zone of coastal waters. A comparison was carried out between the existing formula and a new formula that takes into account the water particle velocity in the breaking wave zone. Water particle velocity was analyzed using the Fluent (CADMAS-SURF) software program. The new formula took into various factors, including the difference in the drag coefficient due to the direction of the current and the ratio of distance between two reefs. The drag coefficient of the artificial reef due to the direction of the current was 0.84 when the distance ratio was 0.5. When the artificial reef was placed at 45 degree angle to the current, the product of the drag coefficient and the project area were 40 to 46 % greater than when the reef was placed at 90 degree angle. Our results regarding the stability of an artificial reef indicate that the new formula provides the designers of artificial reefs with a more rational and economic design rationale rather than the existing formula.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.369-383
• /
• 1993

An amended form of radiation stress is presented in the present model and the existence of the surface advection terms is verified through comparisons with wave energy equation. The model yields circulation patterns in both cross-shore and longshore directions on the plane beach slope. Comparison with laboratory experiments showed good agreements. Finally, a quasi-three dimensional model suitable for the entire nearshore zone is developed by linking the depth-integrated properties with vertical profiles.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.619-633
• /
• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.182-191
• /
• 2011

In the present study, the dynamically coupled POM-WAM of Chun et al.(2009) was applied to the numerical simulation of undertow, one of the nearshore currents. To improve the accuracy of the numerical model results in surf zone, the transport equation of the surface roller was solved, and its effects were incorporated into the present numerical model. The numerical model has been applied to two hydraulic experiments of Okayasu and Katayama(1992) and Cox and Kobayashi(1997). The numerical results were compared with the hydraulic experimental results to give a good concurrence. It is concluded that the present numerical model can be applied to the shallow water region including surf zone.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.193-206
• /
• 1993

An analytical model of undertow is presented in the surf zone. Each term of the derived governing equation is evaluated by the ordering methods. Then the turbulent normal stresses and the streaming velocity terms are neglected. The driving force of undertow is derived from the wave profile which is approximated by the 4th order Chebyshev polynomials. The three types of vertical distribution of eddy viscosity are assumed and the coefficient of eddy viscosity is decided from the new boundary condition. So the input parameters for the calculation of undertow become very simple. The theoretical solutions of the present model are compared with the various experimental results. This model shows a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of mild slope and linear type eddy viscosity.