• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.2
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• pp.173-177
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• 2006

From the viewpoint of coastal hydrodynamics, one of the most important effects of global warming is a sea-level rise in coastal areas. In the present study, impacts on port facilities against sea-level rise were investigated. The sea-level rise causes the increase of the water depth, and it generates variations on the wave height, buoyancy, tidal system and nearshore current system and so on. The increase of water depth gives rise to the decrease of crown height of the structure and it causes increase of wave overtopping quantity. It may flood the port zone and its facilities, and may decrease harbor tranquility. It also leads to difficulties on navigation, mooring and loading/unloading at the port. Increase in water depth also causes increase of wave height in surf zone. This high wave makes structures unstable and may cause them to collapse during storm. In addition, increase in buoyant force due to sea-level rise also makes the gravity type structures unstable. Consequently, theses variations due to sea-level rise will cause functional deterioration of port facilities. In order to protect port facilities from the functional deterioration, reinforcement plan is required such as raising the crown height and increase in block weight and so on. Hence proper estimation method for the protection cost is necessary in order to protect port facilities efficiently. Moreover response strategies and integrated coastal zone management plan is required to maintain the function of port facilities. A simple estimation of cost for breakwaters in Korea was performed in the present study.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.3B
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• pp.345-354
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• 2008

In this present study, we made a first attempt to investigate physical transformations of incident waves in surf and swash zone and hydrodynamic phenomena of detached and submerged breakwaters. For an accurate simulation of the complicated wave deformation, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation has been developed recently and expanded properly for the current applications, which is able to simulate an accurate and direct WAve Structure Sandy seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D). LES-WASS-3D has been validated through the comparison with experimental results for limited cases, and has been used for the simulation of wave run-up on sandy beach, mean fluid flows over and around submerged structures and swash zone (alongshore/rip current), and spatial distribution of wave height in wide fluid regions. In addition, a strategy of efficient deployment ($Y/L_i=1.50{\sim}1.75$, $W/L_r=0.50$) of the submerged breakwaters has been discussed.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.355-365
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• 1994

An analytical model of return flow is presented outside the surf zone. The governing equation is derived from the Navier-Stokes equation and the continuity. Each term of the governing equation is evaluated by the ordering analysis. Then the infinitesimal terms, i.e. the turbulent normal stress, the squared vertical velocity of water particle and the streaming velocity, are neglected. The driving forces of return flow are calculated using the linear wave theory for the shallow water approximation. Especially, the space derivative of local wave heights is described considering a shoaling coefficient. The vertical distribution of eddy viscosity is discussed to the customary types which are the constant, the linear function and the exponential function. Each coefficient of the eddy viscosities which sensitively affect the precision of solutions is uniquely decided from the additional boundary condition which the velocity becomes zero at the wave trough level. Also the boundary conditions at the bottom and the continuity relation are used in the integration of the governing equation. The theoretical solutions of present model are compared with the various experimental results. The solutions show a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of constant or exponential function type eddy viscosity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.179-188
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• 2012

Performance analyses of vertical breakwaters were conducted for fictitiously designed breakwaters for various water depths to analyze the influence of climate change on the structures. The performance-based design method considering sea level rise and wave height increase due to climate change was used for the performance analysis. One of the problems of the performance-based design method is the large calculation time of wave transformation. To overcome this problem, the SWAN model combined with artificial neural network was used. The significant wave height and principal wave direction at the breakwater site are quickly calculated by using a trained neural network with inputs of deepwater significant wave height and principal wave direction, and tidal level. In general, structural stability becomes low due to climate change impacts, but the trend of stability is different depending on water depth. Outside surf zone, the influence of wave height increase becomes more significant, while that of sea level rise becomes negligible, as water depth increases. Inside surf zone, the influence of both wave height increase and sea level rise diminishes as water depth decreases, but the influence of wave height increase is greater than that of sea level rise. Reinforcement and maintenance policies for vertical breakwaters should be established with consideration of these results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.591-598
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• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.182-197
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• 1993

Algal community on the subtidal rocky zone of the South Sea of Korea was divided into two or three sequencing zones. The upper subtidal zone was characterized by the wave exposure-tolerant surf wrack(Pachymeniopsis, Gigartina), which formed dense swirling carpet. Its vertical range was from the surface to $3{\sim}5$ meters in depth, and more deeply extended in turbid waters including Sorido, Yokchido, Pijindo, Manjedo. The mid subtidal zone ranging from 5 to 25 meters in depth was characterized by a large brown algal forest (Ecklenia, Sargassum). But it was generally unrecognizable in that turbid waters, in which the vertical limit of vegetation was at most $10{\sim}15$ meters in depth. The low subtidal zone was characterized by a general lack of algal species and was not easily distinguished from the mid or sometimes from the upper zone. There was a distinct difference in abundance of vegetation between turbid waters and clear waters including Munsom, Kwantaldo, Yosodo, Hongdo, Ch'ujado. In turbid waters the vegetation was much poorer because the tubidity caused from the muddy sediment inhibited an algae to settle down and to grow up. On the basis of the phytogeographical methods using UPGMA, the 10 studied islands were classified into two groups, Munsom and the others. This floristic discontinuity between the two groups might be caused from the difference of water temperature.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.661-669
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• 2000

The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport or dispersion in the surf zone, which often gives rises to serious environmental problems in the coastal region. Although many numerical models have been suggested up to now, it is not easy to properly simulate wave-induced currents, in particular, over a complex topography. In order to solve these problems, we have to understand the mechanism of wave transformation and wave-induced currents, to compare results numerical models with those of field measurements, and to find the validity and the applicability of them. And, also the validity of the model has been confirmed by the field investigation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-308
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• 2001

A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.03a
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• pp.119-125
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with each other. The marker-density method is better then the hybrid method. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.