• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.327-338
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• 1994

KES-F system is widely used in hand evaluation, however, it has encountered some challenges, such as the overlapping of primary hand value, lack of predictability in case of women's thin dress, difficulties in communication due to complexity of primary hand expression and cultural differences in subjective evaluation. Therefore, this study was intended 1) to find out the Korean primary hand expressions(factors) of the overall concept of fabric hand associated with women's spring- fall dress fabrics, 2) to develope the fabric hand attributes of those fabrics and 3) to show whether there are any differences between Korean textile experts and non-experts in terms of the concept of fabric hand descriptors of hand attributes. Data base of hand descriptors were collected by extensive interview 60 experts and 10 non - experts using 110 spring-fall dress fabrics. Finally, hand of selected fabrics was assessed by 205 experts and 265 non-experts using 7-point scale of 26 descriptors based on the data base. Subjective ratings were analyzed by common factor analysis with varimax rotation. It was found that Korean primary hand expression indicated rather simple property, hence, did not equate exactly with Japanese experssion(e.g. koshi, shinayakasa, etc.) which contains several material properties. There were differences in stretch IE resilience, especially liveliness, between the judgement of non- ex- pert than to experts. Surface- related category was more important to non-experts than to experts. Slight differences were found between both groups in terms of preferred descriptors. Important descriptors as a rating scale were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.6-11
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1362-1376
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the perceptions of textures and sensible images of consumers and present basic data for textile designing by analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements and preferences. A total of 12 kinds of knit fabrics were prepared and investigated in terms of the differences in the subjective, mechanical properties and objective hand measurements according to the structural properties of knit fabrics. The data were analyzed by t-test. The subjective hand attributes of wool knits through factor analysis are categorized into 6 factors. In particular, the 'active/comfort' factor is a meaningful result that reflects the unique characteristics of knit fabrics compared to woven fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective hand measurements have a greater effect on textures than on sensible images; in addition, the structural properties, 'gauge' was the most important factor to influence the subjective evaluation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of cotton fabrics by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and preference of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumers taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of enzymatic hydrolysis on the properties of cotton fabrics were also evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follow; As the weight loss increased, evaluators thought that fabrics become finer, smoother, softer, warmer and more refined, and the sense of durability is sleeker and weaker, and the sense of weight is more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner. They didnt catch the change of moisture related properties according to the rate of weight loss. They also thought fabrics became more elastic, and less wrinklier as the weight loss increased. As the weight loss increased, the fabric was more preferred. The limited weight loss which changes the preference from \"dislike\" to \"like\" was 12.87%. The most preferred fabric was that with 12.87% of weight loss. It is supposed that the preference of fabric was related to the terms such as \"sum-se-ha-da\"(섬세하다), \"mai-ku-rup-da\"(매끄럽다), \"yoo-yon-ha-da\"(유연하다), \"too-bak-ji-an-da\"(투박하지 않다), \"chom-chom-ha-da\"(촘촘하다), \"gil-ki-da\"(질기다), \"kun-juk-goe-ri-ji-an-da\"(끈적거리지 않다), \"ku-kim-i-ka-ji-an-nun-da\"(구김이 가지 않는다).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1611-1620
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• 2010

This research compares the difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities in order to analyze the correlations among preference, subjective hands, and sensibilities. Preference segments were classified into wool, acrylic, and long stitch length-preferred clusters in previous research. To evaluate the subjective hands and sensibilities of knit fabrics, the 20's and 30's women rated twelve knit fabrics by touching, using a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale. These twelve knit fabrics were differentiated by controlling the mixture ratio and stitch length using a computer-controlled automatic flat knit machine. The difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities was determined using the conjoint analysis. The clusters perceived the subjective hands and sensibilities differently according to preferred constituent characteristics. There was no correlation between surface unevenness and preference in wool-preferred cluster, while there were negative correlations in other clusters. The acrylic-preferred cluster had a preference in coolness compared to other clusters; in addition, the long stitch-preferred cluster preferred flexibility/bulkiness and extensibility than the others. All clusters preferred modem and natural sensibilities that were caused by different constituent characteristics of knit fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.235-242
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop a scale for the evaluation of the subjective fabric hand. In order to find out the appropriate method for the evaluation, bipolar adjectives were compared to unipolar adjectives. One hundred female university students we.e selected as judges. They assessed 9 fabrics using the 9 point scale system for both bipolar and unipolar adjectives. When using the bipola. scale, judges responded more consistently showing smaller deviation among their responses. The Judges seemed to understand the meanings of adjectives in the bipolar scale more clearly than in the unipolar scale. Unipolar scale has twice the number of questions than bipolar scale does. Therefore. judges often felt bored responding to the questions using unipolar adjectives. If the appropriate antonym can be found through verified method, bipolar scale seems to have more advantages than unipolar scale.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.10
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• pp.133-142
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• 2000

The subjective hand and preference of enzyme hydrolyzed denim fabrics were evaluated using the scale developed. The factors affecting consumer's taste for polyester fabrics were analyzed by the statistical technique. The effects of alkaline hydrolysis on the properties of polyester fabrics were evaluated by subjective and objective hand measurements. The lower the age of evaluators, the more sensitive their feeling. As the age decreased, evaluators felt fabrics become flossy and soft surface property is smooth, flexible, warm, refined. They didn't catch the sense of durability, moisture related property and sense of shape recovery. The lower the age, the fabric was more preferred. Women were more sensitive and consistent than men.