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Hand Evaluation and Favorable Image of Knit Fabrics -A Focus on Intarsia and Color Jacquard-

니트 소재의 질감 평가와 호감도 -인타샤와 칼라자카드를 중심으로-

  • Lim, Gee-Jung (Dept. of Clothing Science, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Lee, Mee-Sik (Dept. of Clothing Science, Seoul Women's University)
  • 임기정 (서울여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 이미식 (서울여자대학교 의류학과)
  • Received : 2012.04.23
  • Accepted : 2012.07.06
  • Published : 2012.08.31

Abstract

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

Keywords

References

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Cited by

  1. Development of a High Value Added Knit Structure for Middle-aged Women vol.18, pp.2, 2014, https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2014.18.2.148