• Title/Summary/Keyword: Stitch

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A Study of Seam Puckering in Thin Fabrics (박지직물의 Seam Puckering에 관한 연구)

  • Park Chung Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.81-88
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    • 1977
  • In order to investigate seam puckering in thin fabrics for summer clothing, this experiment was conducted. Eight different fabrics were sewn with ten different kinds of sewing thread, three different sizes of stitch, and three sewing directions and effects on puckering were examined. The results are as follows: 1. More seam puckering appears on thin fabrics than on thick ones. 2. Less seam puckering appears with the smaller sizes of stitch. 3. Slant direction of sewing gets less seam puckering. 4. Almost no puckering appears with slant direction even after washing.

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Physical Properties of 1×1 Rib Knitted Fabrics Using A/W (A/W사로 편성한 1×1 리브편의 물성 평가)

  • Yea, Su-Jeong;Kim, In-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.629-634
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    • 2012
  • Knitted fabric using acrylic/wool blended yarn (A/W) is increasingly used in the knit industry; subsequently, research on knitted fabric using A/W has increased. This study presents an scientific database from evaluating physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W. In this study,$1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were made at various knitting tensions (dial no. 2-6) and the number (4-6) of ply yarn. The physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were measured and analyzed. The density was in the range 5.5-6.4 wales/cm and 4.0-5.6 courses/cm, respectively. The density increased when less plying yarns and more knitting tension were added during knitting. The thickness was in the range of 1.592-2.362 mm and the tensile strength was in the range 32.75-53.63 Kgf/mm. The burst strength was in the range 107.8-139.2 $N/cm^2$. Thickness, tensile strength, and burst strength increased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The elongation and the recovery extension rate were in the range 102.29-112.13% and 96.4-97.7%, respectively. The heat retention rate was in the range 59.3-65.1%. There was no difference of the elongation and the recovery extension rate and the heat retention rate by the knitting tension and the number of the ply yarn. The permeability was in the range 170.5-396.3 $cm^3/cm^2/sec$. Air permeability decreased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The pilling properties were excellent for all $1{\times}1$ rib stitches.

Knitting Plan of Silver Knitted Fabrics for Providing Multi-Functional Properties (Part I) -Studies on the Mechanical Properties and Hand of Silver Knitted Fabrics for Summer- (복합기능성을 부여하기 위한 은 니트 소재의 설계 (제1보) -여름용 은 니트 소재의 역학적 특성 및 태에 관한 연구-)

  • Kwon Young-Ah;Park Jong-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.6 s.154
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    • pp.870-879
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    • 2006
  • In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

Use of Massive Cuff Stitch in Arthroscopic Repair of Rotator Cuff Tears (관절경 하 회전근 개 파열의 봉합에서 광범위 근개 봉합법의 이용)

  • Ko, Sang-Hun;Cho, Sung-Do;Gwak, Chang-Youl;Eo, Jin;Yoo, Chang-Hyun;Choe, Seung-Wan
    • Clinics in Shoulder and Elbow
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.181-188
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    • 2006
  • Purpose: To evaluate the integrity of repair & technical tip in use of Massive Cuff Stitch at arthroscopic repair of rotator cuff tear. Materials and Methods: Twenthy-nine cases of arthroscopically repaired full thickness tear of rotator cuffs which are medium sized were evaluated. Between December 2004 to September 2005 we have studied, the average age 53($42{\sim}69$) years old, mean follow-up was 15($12{\sim}21$) months. We analyzed the results statistically by paired t-test. The integrity of repair were verified by follow up MRI which were checked 11 cases and ultrasound which were checked 10 cases. Results: VAS of pain improved preoperative average 7.1 to postoperative 0.9, ADL improved 11.2 to 25.6 respectively, UCLA improved 13.7 to 32.9(all, P<0.05). 89.7% showed excellent & good results at the final follow-up. The satisfied rate was 93.1%(27 cases). There was re-rupture of the repaired rotator cuff in one case out of 11 cases which were checked by MRI, and in one case out of 10 cases which were checked by ultrasound, and there was one case of thinning of cuff which were checked by ultrasound. Conclusion: The use of Massive Cuff Stitch in arthroscopic repair of rotator cuff tear have been reduced technical failure. It will be good surgical technique which maintain the integrity of repairs.

Immediate Constituent and Technics of Lingerie in the late20C - Focused on Slip, Knickers, Cami-Knicker - (20세기 후기 란제리의 구성 및 제작기법 - 슬립, 니커, 캐미 니커를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim Jee-Yeon;Chun Hei-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.6 s.96
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    • pp.109-124
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    • 2005
  • The object of this study was to identify the production technique and immediate constituent of lingerie by examining the materials and the sewing techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of lingerie are analyzed based on photographical materials. From the late 20C century to the present time was the research time period. This paper concludes as follows: 1 Decorative method: Lace, Ribbons, piping, elastic bands were some of the decorative materials attached to the garments by zigzag stitch. 2. Flat pattern making: Lingerie patterns were drafted in smaller size than the patterns of outer garments. Bias cut would be applied for the noll-stretchable fabrics. 3. Draping: Bias grain would be applied for the non-stretch fabric. When draping stretch fabrics, follow the grain line of the fabrics and pull the fabric so that it could fit onto the body. 4. Production technique: Straight stitch would be applied for non-stretch fabrics. Zigzag stitch would be applied for stretch fabrics.

Attachment of Two-Way Shape Memory Alloy onto Fabric for Mass Production of Fire Fighters' Turnout Gear (지능형 소방복의 양산화를 위한 이방향 형상기억합금 부착 방법)

  • Park, Mi-Kyung;Lee, Ji-Yeon;Kim, Eun-Ae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.36 no.4
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    • pp.382-390
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    • 2012
  • This study shows the optimum attachment of Two-Way Shape Memory Alloy (TWSMA) springs onto thermal liner and its sewing method for the mass production of fire fighter's intelligent turnout gear. SMA springs were attached to the fabric by four different methods and stitched by two different shapes (square and wave). The durability of the attached springs was tested by laundering up to 50 cycles. Examined were whether the springs would remain attached to the fabric after repeated laundering, the shape memory effect and reaction of the springs, and the anti-corrosiveness of the springs. A Human-Clothing-Environment simulator evaluated thermal insulation according to attachment methods, air layer volume, and stitch types. The findings showed that silicon attached springs remained intact after repeated laundering; in addition, repeated laundering did not influence the responsiveness and anti-corrosiveness of SMAs. Air volume had positive relations with the insulation. Attachment methods or stitch methods had limited impact on the thermal insulation. As a result, a wave type stitch with silicone attachment was suggested as the optimum method to attach the SMA springs onto the intelligent turnout gear for fire fighters.

A Case Study of Dan-Ryung Construction in Early 16th Century -Based on the Shrouds from Excavated Tomb of Kim, Heum Jo- (16세기 전기 단령의 구성법 일례 -김흠보(1461-1528) 분묘 출토의 단령을 중심으로-)

  • 이은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.127-140
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    • 1998
  • A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.

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Subjective Hand and Sensibility of Knit Fabrics According to Preference Segmentation (니트 소재의 선호도 세분화에 따른 주관적 태와 감성 비교)

  • Ro, Eui-Kyung;Kim, Seong-Hung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.10
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    • pp.1611-1620
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    • 2010
  • This research compares the difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities in order to analyze the correlations among preference, subjective hands, and sensibilities. Preference segments were classified into wool, acrylic, and long stitch length-preferred clusters in previous research. To evaluate the subjective hands and sensibilities of knit fabrics, the 20's and 30's women rated twelve knit fabrics by touching, using a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale. These twelve knit fabrics were differentiated by controlling the mixture ratio and stitch length using a computer-controlled automatic flat knit machine. The difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities was determined using the conjoint analysis. The clusters perceived the subjective hands and sensibilities differently according to preferred constituent characteristics. There was no correlation between surface unevenness and preference in wool-preferred cluster, while there were negative correlations in other clusters. The acrylic-preferred cluster had a preference in coolness compared to other clusters; in addition, the long stitch-preferred cluster preferred flexibility/bulkiness and extensibility than the others. All clusters preferred modem and natural sensibilities that were caused by different constituent characteristics of knit fabrics.