• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.185-205
• /
• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.31-50
• /
• 2015

This study analyzes traditional form and figurative characteristics of Ottchil Painting based on objective relics about long lasted Ottchil Painting and related literature as our country's national culture. Study range is among Lolang (Nangnang), Three Kingdom Dynastys (Koguryo, Baekje and Shilla), Unified Shilla Dynasty, Koryo Dynasty, Joseon Dynasty, Modern times and Contemporary. The method of study is after theoretical consideration of Ottchil Painting through related literature, adduced figurative characteristics of related Ottchil Painting by time period with case-study methods such as excavated relics and historical basis. Ottchil Painting consists of color, which is derived from Ottchil mixed with a mineral pigment of powder and various patterns and drawings using different techniques. The methods of Ottchil Painting are Myohoi, Yanggam, Gakhoik, Younma, Balsoa and Toiso. The techniques of Ottchil Painting of our country is established by splendid and unique for about 1,600 years revolved around Myochilchaehoi technique and Myoyuchaehoi technique started at Unified Shill a Daynasty and through Koryo, Joseon Dynasty, Modern times and Contemporary. Also, such this Ottchil Painting form of red in the inside and black in the outside, which is wood based, the rest is bamboo sheath and framework from Geonchil based and the figurative characteristics presented the traditional Patterns of Lotus, Phoenix, arabesque, bird, animal, cloud, marble and letter with red Ottchil, yellow Ottchil, or five colors Ottchil.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.16 no.1 s.41
• /
• pp.111-122
• /
• 1992

Studying the dress style of the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy SU WOL KWAN EUM DO (Drawings on the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy who is watching the Moon reflected in the still water), it is composed of a splendid, jewel crown with five colors, a light and flimsy, non-colored veil with many kinds of gold·plated patterns. This gold·plated carapace figures on a scarlet ground are drawn on the veil and the oval-type flower figures mixed with a scarlet lotus blossom ard arranged. An arabesque pattern of BOSANGHWA (an imaginary, Buddhistic flower figure) is mainly used for both line decorations and necklace. Like this, various kinds and types of figures are in harmony in spite of many changes in figure design. The SU WOL KWAN EUM DO in Koryo dynasty is full of colorful, subtle, harmonious figures which are unique style, which cannot be found in japan, China, and so on. In other words, most of most of dress patterns which are shown in SU WOL KWAN EUM DO are China ink paintings with mountains and waters as its setting. In case of color painting, figure designs are seldom used. The dress pattern in SU WOL KWAN EUM DO of koryo dynasty is characteristic of its variety and magnificent colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.47
• /
• pp.125-142
• /
• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.235-248
• /
• 2008

This study is on the characteristics of gloves in the modern fashion and has the purpose to review the style and the feature of gloves coordinated with clothes variously. The study started firstly with reviewing the related literature for the information of the origin, the process of development and the sort of gloves and then verified the results with photographs in the fashion magazines and collections at home and abroad since 1990s. The first characteristic is utility. Lining and covered materials use the materials excellent for keeping warm as the original purpose of wearing gloves is to protect hands against cold weather. It is demonstrated in the fashion collections that coordinating sieves appeals more often in fall-winter season than in spring-summer season. The second is sense of fashion. Gloves are normally coordinated with same materials and colors of clothes. But, gloves could create infinite varieties, make sufficient images through stressing splendid colors on achromatic colored clothes, shaping unique styles, transforming with various materials and ornaments. The last is sense of deconstruction. Gloves are transformed as a sort of clothes beyond the original use. Gloves are coordinated transcending the conventional thoughts, which makes it possible that Stoves appear in summer season, not in winter. Coordinating gloves appears free and unique through atypical formation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.12
• /
• pp.9-23
• /
• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.13 no.6
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2009

Dong Tribe is a populous nationality with brilliant civilization, they created their unique culture of costumes and accessories throughout the long river of history. And the children's costumes could be the florid feature of the splendid fashion of Dong Tribe because they reflect the sentimental tastes and consciousness of the nation. The children's costumes of Dong Tribe are classified as infants' garments and children's garibaldis by different ages, the garments are much more in kinds, fresher in colors and much complicated in shapes while comparing with the adults' garments. Furthermore, the children's hats, bibs and baby carriers are also the outstanding features in children's costumes of Dong Tribe.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.578-590
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative characteristics appeared in modem Kitsch fashion which has been shown through the empirical data photogrphes from the 2000's to 2003 and the formative characteristics of Kitsch were divided into the material, ornament, color, pattern to understand the modem Kitsch fashion. The findings of this study could be summarized as follows: First, the modem Kitsch fashion in the material was used cheap, counterfeit materials like vinyl, artificial leather, immitation fur, beads and non-artistic materials like metal, plastic, paper and voluptuous material like seethrough to express eroticism and superficiality as the characteristic of Kitsch. Second, Kitsch fashion in the ornament was shown over-decoration by using the various accessories like bracelet, metal belt, gloves, etc to express as childish and coarse mixtures as the characteristic of Kitsch. Third, the modem Kitsch fashion was using splendid and bright, primary colors to express the image of complicated accumulation. Fourth, the modern Kitsch fashion mainly in the pattern was using ethnic, folklore and pop art pattern or print used hippies and pop art fashion to express the primitive purity as bounding of civilized society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.383-395
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide a formative charateristics by analyzing aesthetic charateristics of Egypt costume expressed in contemporary fashion. The result of this study obtained through this process were as follows. Aesthetic characteristics were expressed as a primative-retro characteristics, and a erotic-retro characteristics and a decorative-retro characteristics. Based on these trends, this study analyzed formative charateristics in an aspect of form, color, material, and decoration. In the modern fashion, unlike the H-line silhouette given by a natural fit in the primitive retro, the erotic retro was characterized in the shape by a tight H-line silhouette. For the color, peach, yellow green, gold, light blue, red, and black were used as the main color. For the material, see-through, gauze, mesh, organdy, and tight vinyl were utilized to emphasize an erotic image and expose a body secretly. For the decoration, the characteristic of erotic retro using the simple or same colors frequently was the use of similar accessories colors matched with material colors. The decorative retro was characterized in the shape by a H-line silhouette connected as a part of clothing which applied passium and a greatly modified silhouette from an Egyptian simple style which was well-matched with splendid accessories. For the color, the broadest range of color changes was found from light pastel such as white, yellow, light pink, burnt orange, blue, purple, silver, gold, and red to strong vivid tones. For the material, modern materials such as organdy, tulle, leather, and furs were often used. For the decoration, passium, an eagle pattern, scarab earrings, a crown, a sneak-shaped coronet, and pictograph printed on the fabric were frequently used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.4
• /
• pp.14-25
• /
• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.