• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2007

In order to identify tactile sensibility factors of traditional silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for the sensibility factors by mechanical properties, seventeen different traditional silk fabrics were evaluated in terms of both tactile sensation and sensibility by using a modified magnitude estimation line scale Gongdan and Newttong with lower values for surface roughness(SMD), bending rigidity(B), and compression resilience(RC) were rated as softer, smoother, fluffier, and more pliable in tactile sensation than any other traditional silk fabrics whereas Nobangju haying higher B, SMD, and tensile resilience(RT) was touched as crisper, more rustling, and springier. Three different tactile sensibility factors including 'Feminine', 'Natural', and 'Casual' were obtained significantly by grouping fifteen different tactile sensibility descriptors. In the prediction models sensibility 'Feminine' was explained positively by SMD, which was supported by the fact that both Gongdan and Newtton were perceived as more feminine. Sensibility 'Natural' that was felt stronger as for Myoungju and Sa was predicted negatively by both fabric thickness(T) and RT. Finally, RC, elongation at maximum load (EM), and T predicted sensibility 'Casual' negatively, which results in its higher factor scores for Myoungju and Shantung, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.95-106
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to research the design methods to express jacquard design using CAD. For this study, two design patterns were divided; in addition, each design pattern is applied to two different weaving types, single woven fabric and double well cloths. As a result, 16 samples were produced by applying 4 design methods (warp shrunk as half size design/weft shrunk as half size design - A, warp shrunk as half size design/weft original size design - B, warp original size design/weft shrunk as half size design - C, warp original size design/weft original size design - D) to the two design patterns with the two weaving types. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The most delicate design method was Method D. However, Method B which took half the time less than Method D was almost as delicate as the Method D on the surface. 2. Method B was judged as a considerably efficient method for time and cost. 3. Method D was considered as most suitable for elaborate parts and delicate lines. However, it was considered uneconomical since it took the longest time. 4. Mettled A took 2.5 times less time than Method D. Therefore, Method A was more applicable to producing high density design. 5. Method C is not considered as a useful method as it showed rough surface and took long time by applying high design zoom except intentional design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1160-1167
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• 2006

The most ideal textile conservation is to block oxygen and light from historical textiles. However it is not possible because historical textiles should be examined, cleaned, restored, and exhibited to find out its historical value. Most of excavated costumes were severely stained and soiled. They are dark yellowish brown in color. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color of gray fabrics, bleaching would be required. Conservation treatment was carried out on the 8 historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim(1567-1596). Two of them do not hold the fabrics. They hold only cotton wool and a little piece of fabrics. Even though these costumes underwent the conservation treatment in 1979, they were stained and needed re-treatment. This time, they were dual-bleached using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride followed by wet cleaning to reduce the soils and stains. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. Through the analysis of the trace of fabric, carbonized fabric fragment, and fabrics remained in other garments, we concluded the missing fabrics to be ramie or cotton. It is different result from the primary report concluded to be silk.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.244-251
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• 2016

Viscose rayon filament fabrics have been called 'artificial silk' and beloved as summer clothing materials for a long time in Korea. This is because the viscose rayon filament fabrics reveals glossy surface and cool touch feeling compared to other conventional fabrics composed of staple fibers. Therefore, we tried to prepare the higher value added viscose rayon filament fabrics for summer textile products. In this study, we applied gallnut extract to the viscose rayon filament fabric to develop summer fabrics with natural color and multi-functions such as antibacterial and antioxidant properties. This process also pursue eco-friendly and multi-functional fabric finishing from the natural material "gallnut". In addition, various pre-treatment with cationizer, chitosan, or chito-oligomer was applied to the finishing process to improve the finishing efficacy and durability. Consequently, it was found that the active component of gallnut extract was successfully incorporated to the viscose rayon filament fabric through a pad-dry-cure process. And, the treated viscose rayon filament fabrics showed excellent antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Therefore, it was expected that the rayon filament fabrics treated by gallnut extract could be used as effective summer fabrics preventing the growth of bacteria and skin ageing as well as providing cool touch feeling. However, the pre-treatments were not that meaningful on the functionalities but effective on coloring.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.341-351
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• 2017

This study evaluates a cleaning method to maintain and minimize the change of blood soil for the selective removal of stains from textiles with historical significance and special meaning. Cotton and silk fabrics were soiled with blood, aged artificially and then washed by wet cleaning or dry cleaning (water, nonionic surfactant; Triton, natural surfactant; saponin, organic solvent; n-Decane). The washed fabrics were stored at room temperature for four years. The change of the blood soil was evaluated by SEM, weight, thickness, and color differences. Subsequently, the shape and the amount of blood adsorption on the fabric varied depending on fiber type and fabric structure characteristics; in addition, long term storage affected changes to blood soil. It was difficult to remove artificially aged blood soil from fabrics by wet or dry cleaning. However, the changes of the blood soil by these cleanings can be explained by the changes on SEM, weight, thickness and fabric color. The changes (especially color) showed over time. Wet cleaning showed that the changes of those factors were slightly lower than those by dry cleaning.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.4
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• pp.166-177
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• 2022

The Shiveet Khairkhan is located on Tsengel Som in the middle of Bayan-ulgi Aimag in the Altai region. Various remains have been identified, and it has been found to be an important area of the Eurasian steppe. In this study, the characteristics of textile fibers and dyes excavated from the tombs of the 1st~3rd century Xianbei period in the sites of Shiveet Khairkhan, Mongolia were investigated. As a result of analysis using optical microscopic observation and attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) for fiber identification, green and yellow fabrics were identified as silk fabrics. To investigate the properties of the dye, the surface reflectance of the dyed fabric was measured using an fiber optic reflectance spectrophotometer for non-destructive analysis. The green fabric appeared similar to the reflection spectrum of indigo dye. In addition, as a result of component analysis using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, isatin and indigotine were detected. Isatin and indigotine are characteristic components of indigo dye, and it was found that the green fabric of the tombs of the Xianbei period was dyed using indigo dye. It was difficult to identify the type of dye in the yellow fabric as a result of reflectance spectrum and gas chromatography analysis. Indigo plants are a dye used for blue dyeing from thousands of years ago, and many species are distributed around the world. It was confirmed that the fabric was relatively well preserved and indigo dye was used for the green Jikryeongui (garment with a straight collar) in the ancient tomb of the Xianbei period about 1,800 years ago, even though it was buried for a long time. Scientific investigation of textile cultural heritage is an essential process for conservation treatment, restoration, exhibition, and the creation of a conservation environment. It is expected that related research will be activated in the future and will be helpful in interpreting the living culture at the time, preserving textiles, and a conservation environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.809-819
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• 1999

The scientific analysis of buried fabrics from the 16th century tomb of Kim HeumJo was conducted focusing on the conservation of fabrics, In order to find out the appropriate cleaning solvent and detergent for historical textiles physical chemical and biological analysis was conducted. The following results are obtained from this study : 1, The buried fabrics from the tomb of Kim HeumJo were composed of cotton silk and ramie. Most of fabrics had lost their original colors faded to brown. It was revealed variations in weaves and patterns were very developed at that times. 2. The chemical components of soils are hydrocarbons alkyl alcohols nitrogen compounds aromatic organic acid which is supposed to be from a human body microorganisms and their by-products. 3. Seven kinds of fungi Actinomycetes Corynebacterium spp Micrococcus luteus Bacillus Clostridium were isolated from the fabrics. The most common fungus was Bacillus.

• Korean journal of applied entomology
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• v.46 no.1 s.145
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• pp.5-11
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• 2007

The clothes moth, Tinea translucens Meyrick is reported for the first time from Korea, based on the specimens roaring the larvae. The larvae make silk-made case from the first instar and pupate in the case at mature stage. Photographs of adult genitalia, informations of occurrence and distribution in Korea are provided. Also a brief biological informations for the species are given.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2003.11a
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• pp.1341-1345
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• 2003

직물의 소리에 의해 유발되는 감성을 토대로 직물의 소리를 색채와 매치시키는 실험을 실시하여 직물의 소리를 색으로 변환해 봄으로써 시각과 생각에 의한 복합감성을 활용한 직물 디자인을 제안해 보고자 하였다. 의류소재 30개의 소리를 녹음하여 군집분석한 후 각 군집별로 섬유의 종류를 고려하여 총 6개의 소리를 선택하여 주관적 감성평가와 색 변환실험에 사용하였다. 직물의 소리는 섬유의 조성에 관계없이 주로 Blue, Purple Blue 그리고 무채색으로 표현되었다. 그런, wool은 Gr(grayish), silk는 Dk(dark), polyester는 Dl(dull), nylon은 Dk(dark)등의 차분하고, 안정되고, 점잖은 느낌의 색조로, cotton과 flax는 P(pale)와 Vp(very pale) 같은 부드럽고 가벼운 느낌의 색조로 표현되었다. 따라서 직물의 소리 감성을 설명하는 요소는 색상보다는 색조에 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.