• Acta Via Serica
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.119-135
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• 2016

The initial phase of the Mongol invasion resulted in the establishment of relative political stability in the vast expanses of Eurasia, which came under the control of a single political entity - the Mongol realm. This contributed to a fairly rapid restoration of the commercial links and trade routes between the East and the West. During this period, Chinese silk again became available in large quantities in the Western markets. At the same time, the beginning of silk production and manufacturing of silk fabrics in Italy and the fashion flash for these goods in Western countries affected trade between Europe and the Muslim world. The centers of silk production in the Ilkhanid Empire were some provinces of Azerbaijan and Persia, where from it was exported in large numbers along the trade routes of Anatolia and Syria to the Mediterranean ports and further to the west. There are numerous testimonies of European travelers, and Muslim authors related the international silk trade in 13th-15th centuries, ie in the era from the Mongol Ilkhanid Empire till the reign of the Turkman Aqqoyunlu dynasty. One of the most informative documentary sources on this issue are the legislative codes (kanuname) of sultan Uzun Hasan from the Aqqoyunlu dynasty regarding the eastern provinces of the Asia Minor. This article presents and analyzes the information from these documents concerning the whole range of goods related to silk and silk fabrics trade in the period under the consideration.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.12-20
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• 2007

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts)were obtained by extraction from sappan wood, black tea, peony, and clove using water as extracting solvent at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 min with liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness and deodorizing properties of fabrics (cotton, silk, and wool fabrics) dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The K/S value of dyed cotton fabric increased in the order of peony < sappan wood < clove < black tea, however, the values of dyed silk and wool fabrics were in the order of peony < sappan wood < black tea < clove. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 3 - 5 grade except for sappan wood. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorants extracts was in the range of 56 - 99%. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of peony < black tea < sappan wood < clove. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with clove was found to be the highest at 98-99%.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.64-73
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate dyeing characteristics of silk, cotton and rayon fabrics using dyeing solution extracted from different varieties of tea. Comparative results of CIE Lab values of 360 pieces of dyed fabrics were studied to quantify the effects of dye concentrations (100%, 150%, and 200%) and mordants (Fe, Cu, Sn, Al). In addition, the color difference values (${\Delta}E$) of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, among all of the 360 pieces of silk, cotton and rayon fabrics, the best dyeing effects was observed on silk fabrics. Second, the dyeing effect of the eight different types of tealeaves belonging to green tea, oolong tea, black tea, and dark tea tended to enhance as the degree of fermentation increased. Third, when the fabrics were mordanted with Fe, Cu, Sn, Al mordants, various colors such as brown, brownish red, brownish yellow, gray, and reddish brown were obtained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.364-372
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• 2003

In this study, the characteristics of catechol tannin and pyrogallol tannin contained in Pteridium aquilinum were analysed by It spectrum. Silk fabrics were dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts using various mordants, and their dyeing properties were discussed. Additionally the fastness the water digestion, perspiration liquid digestion and light irradiation were investigated. IR spectrum of catechol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3417cm^{-1}$, C-H at $2930cm^{-1}$, C=0 at $1722cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1644cm^{-1},\;CH_2\;at\;1402cm^{-1}$. And IR spectrum of pyrogallol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3409cm^{-1}$, C-H at $3003cm^{-1}\;and\;2933cm^{-11}$, C=0 at $1701cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1582cm^{-11},\;CH_2\;at\;1410cm^{-1}$, CO at carboxylic acid and carboxylic acid ester at $1287cm^{-1}\;and\;1135cm^{-1}$. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 270.0nm and 311.5nm. The optimum conditions for dyeing silk fabric with Pteridium aquilinum extracts were $80^{\circ}C$, 60min. Surface color of the silk fabric dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts was 2.7Y Surface color of the pre-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 4.3Y, 2.5Y and 4.7Y, respectively. And Surface color of the post-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 3.7Y, 2.8Y and 0.2GY. The water fastness and the alkaline perspiration fastness were improved in the Al-mordanted silk fabrics. By acidic and alkaline perspiration treatment, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than hat of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics. Also after 40hour irradiation, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.17-23
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• 2003

Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) was used to characterize the intermolecular ester crosslinkages in cotton cellulose. The FT-IR data show that the band of the ester carbonyl group can be separated from overlapping carboxyl/carbonyl band by converting carboxyl group to carboxylate. When esterification occurs between a polycarboxylic acid and cotton cellulose, the carbonyl groups retained in the cotton exist in three forms; ester, carboxyl, and carboxylate anion. The FT-IR data were also correlated to the durable press rating result obtained. The appearance of BTCA-finished durable press silk/cotton fabrics were improved.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.85-85
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• 2002

The interaction between berberine and tannin in aqueous solution was investigated spectrophotometerically. The dyeing mechanism of silk fabrics (control and tannin treated silk fabrics) with berberine was based on thermodynamic parameters obtained from equilibrium adsorption experiments. In adsorption spectra of aqueous solution of berberine and tannin mixture two isosbestic points (328nm, 357nm) were found and the mole fraction of reaction of components was 1:1. Initial dyeing rates were increased and the diffusion of dye was more effective by tannin treatment. Without regard to tannin treatment the adsorption isotherm of berberine was the langmuir type except high temperature, 80℃. By tannin treatment the saturation dye uptake was increased, the increase of dye uptake appeared to be a result of entropy change rather than enthalpy change. All these results can be interpreted by the hydrophobic interaction between berberine and silk treated with tannin and it is reasonable to conclude that not only the ionic force, but also the hydrophobic interaction contributes to the binding of berberine and tannin treated silk treated with tannin.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.9-17
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• 2002

The interaction between berberine and tannin in aqueous solution was investigated spectrophotometerically. The dyeing mechanism of silk fabrics (control and tannin treated silk fabrics) with berberine was based on thermodynamic parameters obtained from equilibrium adsorption experiments. In adsorption spectra of aqueous solution of berberine and tannin mixture two isosbestic points (328nm, 357nm) were found and the mole fraction of reaction of components was 1:1. Initial dyeing rates were increased and the diffusion of dye was more effective by tannin treatment. Without regard to tannin treatment the adsorption isotherm of berberine was the langmuir type except high temperature, $80^\circ{C}$. By tannin treatment the saturation dye uptake was increased, the increase of dye uptake appeared to be a result of entropy change rather than enthalpy change. All these results can be interpreted by the hydrophobic interaction between berberine and silk treated with tannin and it is reasonable to conclude that not only the ionic force, but also the hydrophobic interaction contributes to the binding of berberine and tannin treated silk treated with tannin.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.825-833
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• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.60-66
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• 2003

This study shows the colorfastness, antibacterial activity, and deodorizing effect about cotton and silk fabrics dyed with Lithospermi Radix Extract. In the case of colorfastness, the light colorfastness showed the lowest grade, the other colorfastness was relatively good. However there are some differences according to fabrics and mordants. In the case of antibacterial activity to Staphylococcus aureus, the cotton fabrics had the most antibacterial effect at the dyed fabrics that had been mordanted SnC1$_2$ㆍ2$H_2O$, and the silk fabrics had the most antibacterial effect at the dyed fabrics that had been mordanted A1($CH_3$COO)$_3$. In the case of deodorizing effect, the cotton fabrics showed the most deodorizing effect at the dyed fabrics that had been mordanted SnC1$_2$ㆍ2$H_2O$, and the silk fabrics showed the comparatively high antibacterial effect at the dyed fabrics that had been mordanted both SnCl$_2$ㆍ2$H_2O$ and Al($CH_3$COO)$_3$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.