• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.97-105
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• 2006

The dyeability and antibacterial activity of fabrics dyed with lavender extract were analyzed. The results obtained are as follows. The surface color of all the dyed fabrics was tinged with green or yellow of a slight red tint. In the test results of dyeing colorfastness, the colorfastness to sunlight of the dyed fabrics which is both not treated with a mordant and treated with a K2Cr2O7 mordant was excellent with 4th grade of colorfastness. The others showed below 2nd grade. The colorfastness to laundry showed, as most of dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade, relatively excellent results. The colorfastness to perspiration showed different results respectively according to the kind of both dyed fabrics and mordants. The colorfastness to crocking of the dyed both cotton and silk fabrics showed the excellent result of 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to dry cleaning of all the dyed fabrics was excellent with 4th-5th grade. In the test results of antibiosis, the dyed fabrics of both cotton and silk didn't show the significant decrease rate for the fungus called Klebsiella pneumoniae. For the fungus called Staphylococcus aureus, the dyed cotton fabric showed the decrease rate of $98\%$ and the dyed silk fabric showed the decrease rate of $50\%$. For the fungus called Chaetomium globosum, the dyed fabric of cotton didn't show the significant antibacterial efficacy, but the dyed fabric of silk showed the significant antibacterial efficacy for the mold fungus called Aspergillus niger.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.16-25
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• 2012

As the test results for surface color, dyeing durability, antibiosis of cotton fabrics and silk fabrics dyed with Agastache rugosa extract, the following conclusions were obtained. The surface color of all the dyed fabrics was confirmed mostly as a GY system. As the result of chrominance(${\Delta}E_{ab}$) measurement, in the case of cotton fabrics the dyed fabrics treated with $Al_2(SO_4)_3$ mordant showed the highest value and in the case of silk fabrics the non-mordant dyed fabrics showed the highest value. The dyeing durability of test fabrics dyed with Agastache rugosa extract are as follows. As the test results of colorfastness to laundry for cotton dyed fabrics, the discoloration degree showed 1st-2nd grade and the contamination degree showed 4th-5th grade. As the test result of colorfastness to dry cleaning for silk dyed fabrics, the contamination degree showed from 1st to 3rd-4th grade. As the test results of colorfastness to acid artificial perspiration, the discoloration degree showed from 1st to 3rd-4th grade and the contamination degree showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade. As the test results of colorfastness to alkaline artificial perspiration, the discoloration degree showed from 1st to 4th grade and the contamination degree showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to sunlight showed from 1st to 2nd grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade in dry process and from 2nd-3rd to 4th-5th grade in wet process. As the test results of antibiosis, the decrease rate of germs to virus Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus showed at least more than 99% after the wash of 10 times. As the test results of antifungal activity to mycete Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Aspergillus niger, the both cotton and silk dyed fabrics didn't gain the significant antifungal effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.51-59
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• 2009

Natural Artemisia extraction was extracted from Artemisia component using diethyl ether as a solvent, and we tested various pharmacetical and chemical characteristics of this extract. Characteristic experiments to use natural Artemisia extract tested antimicrobial experiment using microbe in pharmacetical material, and tested dye experiment using fiber in chemical material. From the result of characteristics experiment, some conclusions are obtained as follow. From the result of extraction experiment, it obtained about 10.4%-Artemisia extraction ratio as semi-solid state, and after dried in freezing from Artemisia extract of semi-solid state, it obtained about 10%-Artemisia extraction ratio as solid state of dark blue-green color. From result of antimicrobial experiment of Artemisia extract, number of staphylococcus aureus (ATCC-01) and aspergillus niger (ATCC-02) in microbe decreased more and more according to time passage. This phenomenon showed that Artemisia extract influences to antimicrobial effect. From the result of dye experiment of Artemisia extract, it appeared in direction of dark blue-green color after dyed to use cotton and silk with fiber to control in pH 7.5. Specially the result which confirmed dye of fiber with optical electron microscope (OEM), we could know that it appears darker silk than cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1146-1154
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the antimicrobial activity, antimutagenic and anticancer effects and dyeing properties of the fermented indigo extract. The methanol extract of fermented indigo showed a strong inhibition effect on Trich. mentagrophytes and antimutagenic activities against aflatoxin B$_1$(AFB$_1$) in the Ames test using Salmonella typhimurium TA 100. We also found in vitro anticancer effects of the methanol extract of fermented indigo and it was evaluated by using Clone M-3 mouse melanoma cells and A431 human epidermoid carcinoma cells and exerted little cytotoxity against 3T3-L1 embryo fibroblast cell. In the relationship between the K/S values of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with fermented indigo and dyeing repeating times, the K/S values became higher as the repeating times were increased. The K/S values were high when the fabrics were dyed at low temperture. The K/S values of cotton fabrics were higher than those of silk fabrics. Changes of surface color of silk fabrics were higher than those of cotton fabrics after water fastness test, laundering, irradiation and treatment of acidic and alkaline perspiration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 2001

The object of this study is to improve the adsorption of dye for gromwell. Dye was from gromwell first soaked in methylol and added the distilled water, using same amount of methylol. The fabrics used for the experiments were cotton, silk and acrylics(KS0905). These were used untreated and pretreated with chitosan, premordanted with Cu, Al and Fe. Dyeing conditions were controlled. 1. Deep color effect was shown silk. 2. Chitosan treated cotton and acrylics showed deep color effect and huge color difference before and after the experiment. 3. In chitosan treated acrylics, deep color effect were shown. It proved the good adsorption of gromwel under metal mordanting. 4. Cu showed high adsorption of gromwell and deep color effect. 5. Chitosan treated acrylics can be substitute for wool.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.341-349
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• 2009

Natural grape extraction was extracted from grape component using diethyl ether as a solvent, and we tested various pharmaceutical and chemical characteristics of this extract. Characteristic experiments to use natural grape extract tested antimicrobial experiment using microbe in pharmaceutical material, and tested dye experiment using fiber in chemical material. From the result of characteristics experiment, some conclusions are obtained as follow. From the result of characteristics experiment, it obtained about 7.5%-grape extraction ratio as semi-solid state, and after dried in freezing from grape extract of semi-solid state, it obtained about 10%-grape extraction ratio as solid state of dark purple color. From result of antimicrobial experiment of grape extract, number of staphylococcus aureus (KCMC-01) and aspergillus niger (KCMC-02) in microbe decreased more and more according to time passage. This phenomenon showed that grape extract influences to antimicrobial effect. From the result of dye experiment of grape extract, it appeared in direction of dark purple color after dyed to use cotton and silk with fiber to control in pH 7.5. Specially the result which confirmed dye of fiber with optical electron microscope(OEM), we could know that it appears darker silk than cotton.