• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제47권2호
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• pp.78-87
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• 2005

본 연구는 우리 야생화중 비교적 대량번식이 가능한 종인 물레나물의 줄기, 꽃, 잎을 채취하여 염액을 추출하고, 다양한 염색 조건에서 견과 면 소재를 염색하여 염색거동을 살펴보고 염색된 색상에 대하여 고찰하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색에서 견이 면보다 진하게 염색되었고 pH가 중성일때 물레나물은 견 일때 가장 진하게 염색되었다. 2. 염색온도에 따른 염착량은 견과 면 구분 없이 큰 차이가 없었으나 물레나물의 경우 온도가 높아질수록 견이 면보다 약간 진하게 염색되었다. 3. 염색시간이 1시간에서 2시간 사이에서 급격한 Y값의 감소를 보여 이 시간대에서 많은 염착이 이루어 졌다. 4. 면은 염 첨가 농도로 높을수록 Y값이 낮아져 염이 촉염효과 역할을 하는 것으로 보여 졌으나 견의 경우 염 첨가에 따른 Y의 값은 끈 변화가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 5. 물레나물의 염액 농도에 따른 염색성은 견, 면 모두 농도가 작아지면 염착량이 작아졌다. 6. 견의 경우 매염제의 대한 매염효과가 높게 나타나고 있으나 농도는 큰 영향을 미치지 않았다. 면에서 물레나물은 매염효과가 전혀 없는 것으로 나타났다.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.49-59
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• 2009

The bast fibers of paper mulberry were dyed by using sappan wood, gardenia, and gallnut extracted under various extraction conditions. The surface absorption rates, color, and sunlight fastness of the dyed fibers were compared to those of the dyed cotton and silk. The K/S values of silk showed the highest values, followed by gallnut, gardenia, and sappan wood. The optimum extraction conditions of the dye materials were 20 g/L (input amount of dye materials per liter), $90^{\circ}C$ (extraction temperature), and 30 minutes (extraction time). The values of saturation were observed to increase with the increase of the amount of dye materials, extraction time, and extration temperature. However, no effect were found on the values of hue and lightness. In all samples, the developed colors dyed by sappan wood and gardenia were the series of YR, and Y, respectively. The colors of dyed cotton and bast fibers of paper mulberry by gallnut were the series of Y and the dyed silk showed the series of YR. The values of saturation of the bast fibers of paper mulberry by sappan wood and gardenia showed the highest values of saturation, followed by cotton, and silk. In the case of gallnut, cotton showed the highest values of saturation, followed by the bast fibers of paper mulberry, and silk. The sunlight fastness were not improved in all dyeing conditions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.315-322
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• 1999

The acquistion and dyeability of the Gardenia jasminoides were examined to establish the optimum condition for extraction and storage in the process of obtaining the natural dye, Gardenia jasminoides colorant. Also the dyeability and colorfastness of Gardenia jasminoides were investigated. The results of this study are as follows. The optimum part-removed seed. In all experiments, the part of fat-removed seed and pericarp was used. The optimum condition for extraction of Gardenia jasminoides colorant was at 40℃ and for 90 min. in methanol. As storage temperature was higher, the absorbance of colorant extract decreased rapidly. The Gardenia jasminoides colorant exhibited dyeability to cotton, silk, wool, and nylon. The dyeability was the greatest in wool, and then nylon, silk, and cotton. Both wool and nylon had the greatest K/S value at pH3, however, nylon and cotton at pH 6 and pH 8 respectively. In addition, the increase in K/S value corresponded to temperature in wool and nylon, but the silk and cotton had the greatest K/S value at 60℃. Also, the K/S value increased in concomitant with the increased number of dyeing repetition. In the most cases, colorfastness of light was weak but colorfastness of laundry, sweat was relatively excellent.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.95-103
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• 2021

This study aims to examine the antibacterial effects of cotton and silk fabrics naturally dyed with Artemisia princeps extract on antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria. The concentrated natural dye of the Artemisia princeps extract was made at the liquor ratio of 1:10 at 40-60℃ for 60 minutes. The concentration of FeSO4·7H2O, Al2(SO4)3, and CuSO4 5H2O mordant was 3% (owf), and the liquor ratio was 1:20. In order to experiment on the antimicrobial activity of the naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by breeding it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) containing Oxacillin (2㎍/ml), Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml), and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA). As a result of examining the bacterial growth reduction rate on dyed cotton and silk fabrics against antibiotic-resistant strains, it was found that the copper mordant in cotton fabric shows the highest antibacterial activity with a bacterial growth reduction rate of 99.9%, and the non-mordant cotton fabric shows the lowest antibacterial activity with a reduction rate of 18.6%. In the case of the naturally dyed silk fabric, it indicates the highest reduction rate of strains in the Al mordanting (94.9%), and Cu mordanting (99.9%).

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.12-20
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• 2007

Four kinds of natural dying solutions (natural colorant extracts)were obtained by extraction from sappan wood, black tea, peony, and clove using water as extracting solvent at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 min with liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, colour fastness and deodorizing properties of fabrics (cotton, silk, and wool fabrics) dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. It was found that these properties were significantly dependent on the concentration of extracts, the structure of colorant, and the kind of fabrics. The K/S value of dyed cotton fabric increased in the order of peony < sappan wood < clove < black tea, however, the values of dyed silk and wool fabrics were in the order of peony < sappan wood < black tea < clove. Colour fastness (light, water, and perspiration fastness) was in the range of 3 - 5 grade except for sappan wood. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorants extracts was in the range of 56 - 99%. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of peony < black tea < sappan wood < clove. Especially, the deodorizing performance of all fabrics dyed with clove was found to be the highest at 98-99%.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.64-73
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate dyeing characteristics of silk, cotton and rayon fabrics using dyeing solution extracted from different varieties of tea. Comparative results of CIE Lab values of 360 pieces of dyed fabrics were studied to quantify the effects of dye concentrations (100%, 150%, and 200%) and mordants (Fe, Cu, Sn, Al). In addition, the color difference values (${\Delta}E$) of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, among all of the 360 pieces of silk, cotton and rayon fabrics, the best dyeing effects was observed on silk fabrics. Second, the dyeing effect of the eight different types of tealeaves belonging to green tea, oolong tea, black tea, and dark tea tended to enhance as the degree of fermentation increased. Third, when the fabrics were mordanted with Fe, Cu, Sn, Al mordants, various colors such as brown, brownish red, brownish yellow, gray, and reddish brown were obtained.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.161-182
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• 2000

The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제20권
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

문화재의 생물방제를 목적으로 개발되어 시판되고 있는 3종의 식물 추출 천연 살충 살균제에 대한 문화재의 재질에 미치는 영향을 평가하였다. 평가 대상 재질은 1) 견직물 : 염색하지 않은 견직물, 황벽, 오배자, 오배자(명반 후매염), 오배자(녹반 후매염), 치자, 울금, 도토리, 도토리(녹반 후매염), 자초, 천근, 천근(명반 후매염), 홍화(홍염색), 소목, 소목(명반 선매염, 후매염) 염색 및 쪽, 쪽과 황벽 복염, 쪽과 소목 복염 견직물 2) 면직물 : 염색하지 않은 면직물, 황벽, 오배자, 오배자(명반 후매염), 치자, 도토리, 도토리(녹반 후매염), 자초, 천근, 천근(명반 후매염), 홍화(홍염색), 소목, 소목(명반선매염, 후매염) 염색 및 쪽, 쪽과 소목 복염 면직물, 3) 염색하지 않은 저마직물 4) 한지 : 염색하지 않은 한지, 소목, 쪽, 치자, 홍화(홍염색), 황벽 염색 한지 5) 안료분말 :석청 석록, 연단, 석간주, 주사, 주, 패각호분, 밀타승,대자, 석황, 쪽, 백토, 연백 남전 5)채색편 : 석청, 석록, 연단, 석간주, 주사, 주, 패각호분, 밀타승, 대자, 석황, 쪽, 백토, 연백, 남전이다. 시험은 시료를 습도 $55{\pm}1%$. 온도 $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$의 환경에서 약제의 권장 농도의 10배에 9개월간 노출 시킨 후 기준 시료와의 색차와 인장강도를 비교 평가하였다. 약제 노출 후 염색을 하지 않은 견직물 면직물 저마직물 한지는 약제에 의한 색상 변화는 거의 일어나지 않았으나, 염색 견직물 면직물 한지는 도토리나 천근 염색 직물 등이나 치자 염색 한지를 제외하고는 대부분 일반인도 인식이 가능한 뚜렷한 색상차가 발생하였다. 특히 울금 염색 견직물은 가장 색상차가 뚜렷하였다. 그리고 안료분말이나 채색편은 납, 구리, 비소, 수은 함유 안료 및 식물성 안료 등에서 뚜렷한 색상차가 발생하였다. 인장강도는 염색하지 않은 견직물은 약제에 거의 변화가 없으며 면직물은 약간 감소하는 경향을 보이나, 염색을 한 견직물이나 면직물은 강도의 증가나 감소가 뚜렷하였다. 특히 천근 염색 견직물은 10% 이상의 강도 감소가, 쪽 염색 견직물은 10% 이상의 강도 증가가 일어났으며, 천근과 소목(명반 후매염) 염색 면직물은 10% 이상의 강도 감소 현상이 일어났다.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.37-50
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• 1998

The goal of this suudy is to investigate the production and distribution of silk fabrics of the CHO-SUN Era. My conclusions culture was advanced as a result of its promotion by government authorities. It proceeded from south to north, and spread all over the country. The north became the center of the silkworm culture since cotton was cultivated in the south. Second, the production of silk fabrics proceeded by government orders at the beginning. But it proceeded by private enterprise at a later period. Since government-managed textile handicrafts began falling off during the 16th century, privately managed handicrafts were accomplished slowly. Third, at the same time as the introduction of natural cotton fabrics, the production of various fabrics in the CHO-SUN Era proceeded all over the country, and special production localities-formed. PYUNGAN-DO(평안도), HAMKYOUN-DO(함경도), HOANG HAE-DO(황해도), and KYUNG SANG-DO (경상도) were the main region of silk fabric production. Fourth, the silk fabrics were distributed through the capital markets and the province markets. And superior silk fabrics were distri-buted through the capital markets. And all sorts of low quality silks JU were distributed through the province market. Fifth, thus an abundance of superior silk fabrics was distributed in the CHO-SUN Era. But thequantity of production was not enough. And most of it was used in the Royal Court. The quantity of shortage was supplied by imports.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.