• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.1-12
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• 1996

Hydrodynamic characteristics of shipping water on deck are investigated by using a simplified two-dimensional model. Formulation of the shipping water on deck leads to a nonlinear hyperbolic system of equations based on the shallow-water wave theory. Time-domain solution of these equations are obtained numerically using a finite difference method which adopts predictor-corrector method for time-marching and 2nd upwind differencing method for convection term calculation. To confirm the validity of the present numerical method, we calculated some shallow-water wave problems accompanying a bore and compared the obtained results with the analytic solutions. We found good agreements between them. Though the calculation results of shipping water on deck, we show that the shipping water flows into the deck as a rarefying wave arid grows into a bore after colliding with a deck structure. Also we examined the effects of acceleration and slope of deck and found that they have significant influences on the flow of shipping water.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.212-220
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• 1993

A numerical model for the transformation of irregular waves in a coastal area is developed, which takes account of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, bottom friction and wave breaking. The governing equations are the usual energy conservation equation and kinematic conservation equations, but to consider the diffraction effects additional terms are included in the usual kinematic conservation or wave number equations. A linear superposition technique is used to represent the spectral formation. and an explicit formula is developed for the estimation of friction factor of irregular waves. A breaking criterion of component waves, which is the modified form of the Kitaigorodskii saturation relation, is employed to restrict the growth of shoaling waves in very shallow waters. The model was applied to a laboratory test and satisfactory agreement was obtained between the computation and measurement.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.29 no.2B
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• pp.121-129
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• 2009

In this study, dam-break flows are simulated numerically by using an efficient and accurate Cartesian cut-cell mesh system. In the system, most of the computational domain is discretized by the Cartesian mesh, while peculiar grids are done by a cutcell mesh system. The governing equations are then solved by the finite volume method. An HLLC approximate Riemann solver and TVD-WAF method are employed to calculation of advection flux of the shallow-water equations. To validate the numerical model, the model is applied to some problems such as a steady flow convergence on an ideal bed, a steady flow over an irregular bathymetry, and a rectangular tank problem. The present model is finally applied to a simulation of dam-break flow on an experimental channel. The predicted water surface elevations are compared with available laboratory measurements. A very reasonable agreement is observed.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.21 no.B
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• pp.175-185
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• 2001

A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.02a
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• pp.431-434
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• 2008

Pratical dispersion-correction scheme is applicated to simulate the distant propagation of tsunami. This scheme is based on the leap-frog finite difference scheme for the linear shallow-water equations. The new scheme has the advantage of using the constant spatial grid size and time step size even in area of variable depths. And this new model constructed by using the 2nd upwind scheme, dynamic linking method, and staggered grid system. This model is simulated to near Sokcho harbor about The Central East Sea Tsunami in 1983. And this result is compared to tide gage and result of former model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.937-947
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• 2003

A shoreline, which has no the water depth, moves continuously as waves rise up and recede. Therefore, a special boundary treatment is required to track properly the movements of the shoreline in numerical modeling of the behavior of tsunamis or tides near a coastal zone. In this study, convective terms in nonlinear shallow-water equations are discretized explicitly by using a second-order upwind scheme to describe a moving shoreline more accurately. An oscillatory flow motion in a circular paraboloidal basin has been employed to validate the performance of the developed numerical model. Computed results of instantaneous free surface displacements are compared with those of analytical solutions and existing numerical solutions. The run-up heights in the vicinity of a circular island have also been calculated and obtained numerical results have been shown against available laboratory measurements. A good agreement has been observed.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.50 no.9
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• pp.647-652
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• 2017

Many islands are scattered around the southern area of the Korean Peninsula and they may be very vulnerable to unexpected tsunami attacks. During the East Japan Tsunami Event occurred on March 11, 2011, many islands located at the southern area were affected by tsunamis. In this study, maximum run-up heights of solitary waves on a circular island with asymmetrical crest lengths investigated by using a numerical model based on the shallow-water theory. The obtained results could be used by local authorities to establish a defense plan against unexpected tsunami invasion.

• Nuclear Engineering and Technology
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.211-218
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• 2010

An analysis model on debris transport in the containment floor of pressurized water reactors is developed in which the flow field is calculated by Eulerian conservation equations of mass and momentum and the debris particles are traced by Lagrange equations of motion using the pre-determined flow field data. For the flow field calculation, two-dimensional Shallow Water Equations derived from Navier Stokes equations are solved using the Finite Volume Method, and the Harten-Lax-van Leer scheme is used for accuracy to capture the dry-to-wet interface. For the debris tracing, a simplified two-dimensional Lagrangian particle tracking model including drag force is developed. Advanced schemes to find the positions of particles over the containment floor and to determine the position of particles reflected from the solid wall are implemented. The present model is applied to calculate the transport fraction to the Hold-up Volume Tank in Advanced Power Reactors 1400. By the present model, the debris transport fraction is predicted, and the effect of particle density and particle size on transport is investigated.