• Title/Summary/Keyword: Shallow water wave

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Shallow-water Design Waves at Gangreung Beach through the Analysis of Long-term Measured Wave Data and Numerical Simulation Using Deepwater Wave Conditions (장기 파랑관측자료 분석 및 천해파 수치실험에 의한 강릉 해역의 천해설계파)

  • Jeong, Weon Mu;Jun, Ki Cheon;Kim, Gunwoo;Oh, Sang-Ho;Ryu, Kyong-Ho
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.24 no.5
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    • pp.343-351
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    • 2012
  • In this study, shallow-water design waves are calculated for the return period of 10, 20, 30, and 50 years, based on the extreme value analysis of the wave measurement data at Gangneung beach. These values are compared with the results of SWAN simulation with the boundary condition of the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods at the Gangneung sea area provided by the Fisheries Agency (FA, 1988) and Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute (KORDI, 2005). It is found that the shallow-water wave heights at Gangneung beach calculated by the deep-water design waves were significantly less than the observation data. As the return period becomes higher, the significant wave heights obtained by the extreme value analysis becomes higher than those computed by SWAN with the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods. KORDI computed the hindcast wave data from January 2004 to August 2008 by WAM with a finer-grid mesh system than those of previous studies. Comparisons of the wave hindcast results with the wave observation show that the reproducibility of the winter-season storm wave was considerably improved compared to the hindcast data from 1979 to 2003. Hereafter, it is necessary to carry out hindcast wave data for the years before 2004 using WAM with the finer-grid mesh system and to supplement the deep-water design wave.

Hydrodynamic Forces on a Two-dimensional Cylinder in Shallow Water (천수역에 놓인 2차원 주상체에 수평방향으로 작용하는 동유체력에 관한 고찰)

  • Hang-S.,Choi
    • Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.23 no.2
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    • pp.21-26
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    • 1986
  • An analysis is made of hydrodynamic forces acting horizontally on a two-dimensional cylinder, when it is exposed to incident waves and consequently undergoes a swaying motion in shallow water. Applying the method of matched asymptotic expansions the added mass, wave damping and the wave exciting force are obtained in terms of the difference in potential across the cylinder in a simple manner. The potential jump is related to the so-called blockage coefficient which is determined purely from geometry. It is found that the wave damping coefficient can not exceed the blockage coefficient.

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On the Interaction of a Solitary Wave and a Wave-Packet (고립파와 파도패킷의 상호작용)

  • Jong Eon Kim;Taek Soo Jang
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.60 no.5
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    • pp.341-350
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    • 2023
  • In this paper, numerical experiments are performed to examine the collision between a solitary wave and a wave-packet (dispersive wave) in shallow water. We attempt to introduce the improved Boussinesq equation governing the experiments, which is solved by using a semi-analytical approach, called Pseudo-parameter Iteration method(PIM). Using various numerical experiments, we have observed that the wave-packet (propagating dispersive wave) experiences a phase shift after collision with a solitary wave. This phenomenon may be considered as a nonlinear wave-wave interaction in shallow water.

NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF THE FLOW AROUND THE HULL AND THE PROPELLER OF A SHIP ADVANCING IN SHALLOW WATER (천수에서 전진하는 선박의 선체 및 추진기 주위 유동 수치 해석)

  • Park, I.R.
    • Journal of computational fluids engineering
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    • v.20 no.4
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    • pp.93-101
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    • 2015
  • This paper provides numerical results of the simulation for the flow around the hull and the propeller of KCS model ship advancing in shallow water conditions. A finite volume method is used to solve the unsteady Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes(RANS) equations, where the wave-making problem is solved by using a volume-of-fluid(VOF) method. The wave formed near the hull surface in shallow water conditions shows a deep trough dominant pattern that causes the loss of buoyancy followed by hull squat. The flow past the hull increases as the depth of water decreases. However, the axial flow velocity around the stern shows a reduction in magnitude by the effect of shallow water accompanied by the hull-propeller interaction. As a results, the thrust and torque coefficient increase about 8.3% and 6.2%, respectively for a depth of h/T=3.0 corresponding to a depth Froude number of $F_h=0.693$. The resistance coefficient increases about 11.6% at this Froude number condition.

A Shallow Water Wave Prediction Model (천해파 추정모형)

  • 윤종태
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.83-90
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    • 1992
  • A wave prediction model of DP type with shallow water effects is presented. An intercom-parison study of the shallow water wave models has been made to verify applicability of this model which has source functions of Inoue, propagation scheme by Gadd and dissipation functions due to bottom friction. The energy distribution shows reasonable results and for the bottom friction JONS-WAP decay function seems to be more appropriate.

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A study on the optimal equation of the continuous wave spectrum

  • Cho, Hong-Yeon;Kweon, Hyuck-Min;Jeong, Weon-Mu;Kim, Sang-Ik
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.7 no.6
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    • pp.1056-1063
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    • 2015
  • Waves can be expressed in terms of a spectrum; that is, the energy density distribution of a representative wave can be determined using statistical analysis. The JONSWAP, PM and BM spectra have been widely used for the specific target wave data set during storms. In this case, the extracted wave data are usually discontinuous and independent and cover a very short period of the total data-recording period. Previous studies on the continuous wave spectrum have focused on wave deformation in shallow water conditions and cannot be generalized for deep water conditions. In this study, the Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) function is proposed as a more-optimal function for the fitting of the continuous wave spectral shape based on long-term monitored point wave data in deep waters. The GEV function was found to be able to accurately reproduce the wave spectral shape, except for discontinuous waves of greater than 4 m in height.

A Note on the Modified Scheme for Nonlinear Shallow-Water Equations (비선형 천수방정식의 보정차분기법)

  • 조용식
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.197-200
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    • 1999
  • An extension of the modified leap-frog scheme is made to solve the nonlinear shallow-water equations. In the extended model. the physical dispersion of the Boussinesq equations is replaced by the numerical dispersion resulted from the leap-frog finite difference scheme. The model is used to simulate propagations of a solitary wave over a constant water depth and a linearly varying water depth. Obtained numerical results are compared with available analytical and other numerical solutions. A reasonable agreement is observed.

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Study on Hydrodynamic Forces Acting on a Very Large Container Vessel at Lower Depths in Both Still Water and Waves (정수중 및 파랑중 저수심에서의 초대형 컨테이너선에 작용하는 유체력 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Sangmin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.613-619
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    • 2017
  • Recently, the size of container ships has been progressively increasing, and much attention is required for safe navigation in shallow areas such as coastal waters and ports due to increases in draft. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of ship motion not only in still waters but also with waves. Especially in shallow regions, squat due to the vertical movement of the ship can be an important evaluation factor for the safe navigation, and wave drift force acting in the horizontal direction can have a great influence on the maneuverability of a ship. In this study, a numerical simulation using computational fluid dynamics has been performed for the wave exciting force acting in the vertical direction and the wave drift force acting in the horizontal direction for a very large container vessel sailing in shallow zone. As a result, it was found that total resistance in still waters greatly increased in shallow water. Wave drift force was shown to decrease given longer wavelengths regardless of water depth. It was observed that the wave exciting force in shallow water was considerably larger than at other water depths. As wave height against the central part of the ship lowered, the aft side rose.

Runup and Reflection of Waves on Impermeable Slopes of Coastal Structures (불투수성 경사면에서 파의 처오름과 반사)

  • Lee, Cheol-Eung
    • Journal of Industrial Technology
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    • v.21 no.B
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    • pp.175-185
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    • 2001
  • A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.

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Comparison of the Shallow-Water Design Wave Height on the Korean East Coast Based on Wave Observation Data and Numerical Simulation (장기파랑관측자료와 수치실험에 의한 동해안 천해설계파고 검토)

  • Jeong, Weon-Mu;Choi, Hyukjin;Cho, Hong-Yeon;Oh, Sang-Ho
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.28 no.5
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    • pp.292-302
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    • 2016
  • In this study, shallow-water design waves are estimated for various return periods based on statistical analysis of extreme waves observed 13 years at four stations on the Korean east coast (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, Jinha). These values are compared with the results from SWAN simulation by using the deep water design waves conventionally used in Korea (KORDI, 2005). It was found that the simulated values of the shallow-water design waves are comparatively smaller than the values from the extreme value analysis, expecially below 30 years frequency, which implies possible under-estimation of the deep-water design waves on the Korean east coast.