• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권5호
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• pp.641-655
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• 2015

This study examined the ideal image and fashion of Korean women in the 1970s from a socio-cultural context. This study used information on the 1970s politics, economy, and culture provided by "Chosun Ilbo" and "Yosungjungang" as well as their presentation of the ideal image and fashion for Korean women in the 1970s. The ideal image and fashion of women were considered from the viewpoint of Hamilton's Meta-theory. The ideal image of women in the 1970s is divided into two aspects. The image from the traditional Confucian perspective was prevalent and restricted the lives of women to housekeeping chores. On the contrary, women have increasingly participated in society vis-$\grave{a}$-vis education and employment opportunities to present a progressive image of women. These aspects coexisted during the turmoil of social change. Progressive women had money to buy clothes because they were economically independent. These women embraced styles that included mini, midi, maxi, and bell-bottom pants. Further, pants were developed into different styles such as pant suits. T-shirts and blue jeans as casual wear were very popular among the youth. At the end of the 1970s, the tailored look and the big look (which copied men's clothing) were in fashion. Masculine styles such as wide shoulders with pads and neckties strengthened gender equality. Other fashions were dominated by feminine styles described as beautiful, sweet, and elegant that reflected Korean society's tendency to regard women as sex objects. Clothing that exposed the body highlights this sexual objectification aspect. Women wore miniskirts, hot pants, and bikinis because they wanted to enhance their sex appeal, propagating the view of women as sex objects. In conclusion, all aspects of society and culture were closely interrelated with a fashion style that reflected the values of those aspects.

• 복식
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• 제66권4호
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• pp.77-93
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the stage costumes of Michael Jackson, and how it was reflected in contemporary fashion. The study reviewed fashion related articles, book, journals, and online fashion sites in order to look at the stage costumes used by Michael Jackson from 1979 to 2001 from 'Off the wall' to 'Invincible'. The study examined the 2001 S/S~2016 S/S seasons of the world's 4 major $pr{\hat{e}}t$-${\acute{a}}$-porte collections to identify cases that used at least two fashion factors of Michael Jackson's style. The study result is as follows: First, Michael Jackson wore black tuxedoes with bow ties, ankle-length pants, white socks, black loafers, arm bands and other various accessories. Second, many of Jackson's fashion traits, such as military style golden embroidery detail and emblems, Brandenburgs, and also appeared in many collections. Third, Jackson's glitter style included spangle and cubic accessories, which were used along with hologram and metallic materials. Accessories, such as cubic gloves and socks, and fedoras were worn with the costume. Lastly, his diverse style, which included fencing shirts, letterman jacket and magic suits, can be found in different forms in modern fashion. Michael Jackson was one of the trendsetters in popular fashion in the 1970s~1990s, and continuously inspires fashion designers in the 21st century. In this aspect, the Michael Jackson style is deemed highly significant in the fashion history.

• 복식
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• 제50권8호
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• pp.177-198
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• 2000

The major purpose of this study is to obtain the evident and visual data about the changes of Korean dress with a socio-cultural context through dress depicted in the Korean films since the 1960s. For this purpose, after were Korean socio-cultural background including the history of Korean films and mass fashion trends reviewed, total fifteen Korean films by ten year were selected on the basis of contemporaneity popularity, and fashionability, and analyzed with the data reviewed before. And the results can be summarized as follows : Dress in the Korean films of the 1960s shows sporty casual took influenced by western style, with the popularity of young fashion and youth film. The typical styles are sac dress and mini skirt fur women, and suit with American silhouette for men. Unisex mode including slim T-shirts and blue jeans with European silhouette supt appears mainly in the Korean films of the 1970s, with the change of sex roles and mass fashion trend. Dress in the Korean films of the 1980s is characterized by bold silhouette and decorative details. with the boom of erotic metro-drama and luxurious fashion trend, such as padded jacket, X silhouette ensemble, brig look coat for women, and American style suit for men. Dress in the Korean films of the 1990s shows the rapid cycle of fashion with the increase of casual wear, reflecting the popularity of romantic comedy film and various socio-cultural circumstances. As a result, the current of dress depleted in the Korean films since the 1960s is summarized as the cycle of fashion accelerated, the similarity between men's and women's wear, and the increase of sporty casual wear. Also, dress in the films reflects effectively the socio-cultural context related to fashion except for especially emphasizing characters in films.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1427-1438
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• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.77-95
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• 2005

This study was for applying web based street fashion design analysis system(web-SFAS), which was designed in preceding research and realized, to a practical use. Web-SFAS was developed to analyze data fast, accurately, conveniently, and to provide them to related fields by using Information Technology (IT) in fashion design industry. By inputting, sorting and analyzing actual image data into this system, it purposes to check if it needs to be corrected and to verify its operation and application. This study was collected in 2004 s/s 177 points image data and survey results input to the system This system analyzed the results as follow ; First, in all four areas of S/S, many people wear soft materials and plain T-shirts on top and tough material and plain jeans on the bottom. Second, In the case of dresses, in many areas people wear tough fabric plain A-line, one-piece dresses but in Hapsung-dong, many people wear geometrical figures. Third, fashion image, most people wear a sportive casual style with semi casual in a close second. Therefore, web-SFAS can be useful system analyzing for the trendy apparel type, design, material, color, image and variable in demography through street fashion image data.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.954-960
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• 2014

This study surveyed high school girls in the Busan, Ulsan, and Gyeongnam areas to study how they wear school uniforms along with their satisfaction levels and demands in regards to functional school uniforms. This study presents data on the requirements for the development of winter school uniforms for high school girls with improved warmth functions. The findings are: First, high school girls purchased school uniforms of different brands and the purchase rates for three brands were 25% to 30% approximately. Most of them spent more than 300,000 KRW and less than 400,000 KRW on school uniforms purchases. Second, the greatest complaints by students about winter school uniforms were the ability to conduct routine activities and poor thermal insulation. The most popular bottom underwear for girls was underpants and leggings. The most popular top underwear was half-sleeved round neck t-shirts and running shirts. Third, a survey about uniform functionality showed that most students used and 'arm pit sweat absorbing pad', 'Waist size adjusting function, and 'inside pockets with zippers'. Satisfaction with functional uniforms was low: less than 3.5 in all questions. Fourth, students were favorable to develop functional uniforms to keep warm in the winter. The bottom needs to be warmer than the top and it is necessary to keep legs warm, especially the thighs and calves.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.177-190
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• 2016

On-line consumer reviews are good references for consumers to evaluate and buy apparel products. The objective of this study is to facilitate communication about performance textiles between consumers and merchandisers who buy and sell apparel products on online. The survey was based on standardizing words used in consumer reviews written after purchase of summer knit t-shirts at internet shopping mall and evaluating the performance textiles including cellulose fibers. We collected reviews of five sorts of the clothing products including cotton/modal, tencel/polyurethane, polyester/rayon, linen, cotton and selected 1000 reviews related to textiles. For classifying each word used in the reviews by the performance textiles, they were quantified applying same standards. The results were as follow: First, the standard for consumer to consider importantly was tactile sensation, appearance, pilling, thickness, dimensional stability in washing. Second, the important category of performance textiles was healthy-comfort and psychological-comfort. Third, there were difference performance textiles for consumer to recognize, e.g. cotton/modal was important to air-permeability, tencel/polyurethane was noticed about tactile sensation, polyester/rayon was perceived about pilling unlike other things, linen had a problem of clothing care-convenience, then cotton was familiar fiber to important for appearance. The last, consumers usually focused on writing the most positive or negative online reviews. Although not familiar with professional terminologies, consumers are sensitive to physical properties of textiles. Therefore, standardizing and evaluating performance textiles are expected to improve satisfaction as providing objective information to consumers considering in buying apparel products at online shopping mall and increase in revenue to manufacturer.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2020

This study analyzed the perceptions related to recycling clothing and the actual conditions of unused clothing based on demographic characteristics to help reduce environmental pollution. A total of 833 questionnaires were used in data analysis for this survey study. The subjects consisted of men and women in their 20s to 50s who resided in Gyeongnam and Ulsan, Korea. The data were analyzed by χ²-test using SPSS. The results obtained were as follows. The intention to recycle others' clothing was significantly different for all the demographic characteristics. Overall, the response "I have an intention to recycle others' clothing" was reported by a relatively high proportion of the respondents. The analysis of the motivation to others' clothing showed a significant difference in all demographic characteristics except gender. The main motivation for recycling clothing was because "I wanted to recycle the clothing". The factors hindering recycling others' clothing showed significant differences according to gender, marital status, and occupation. The main hindrance factor was reported as "feeling uncomfortable". The causes of occurrence of unused T-shirts significantly different for all demographic characteristics. The causes of occurrence of unused trousers and skirts was significantly different for all demographic characteristics except monthly income. The cause of undisposed, unused clothing was related to all demographic characteristics Overall, the response "reluctant to dispose of" was reported by a relatively high proportion of the respondents.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.756-762
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• 2005

The objective of this research is to examine psychological desires of college students who attempt to express themselves by wearing so called 'couple look' attire, which is a dressing habit that represents responses to various psychologies and the society. Moreover, the message that is trying to be conveyed to others by dressing as such and the question of whether that message is being conveyed, are subject to analysis by applying linguistic classification theory pertaining to this specific term. After a pre-examination based on a through interview conducted with 70 male and female college student, the main examination was based on question and answering methods on 450 male and female college students for data collection. The results were compared, reviewed and analyzed by applying Geoffrey Leech's meaning segmentation theory on linguistics, and was aimed at defining through research how meaning segmentation represented through languages can be applied in expressing one's self through clothing. The research results are as follows. 1. The psychological desires of wearing couple look attire are to express that they like and love each other, are dating, and to showcase their intimacy. 2. Clothing attire that are appropriate to express the couple look are T-shirts, jeans, pants, sweaters, mufflers, and accessories such as tennis shoes, hats, shoes, bags, rings, watches, ear-rings, etc. 3. Amongst people who have tried the couple look and those who have not, those who have said that they were willing to dress in couple look are mostly experienced in dressing so.