• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.550-558
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• 2010

Russian Constructivism, which took the lead in the Russian trend of art until the late 1920's, was influenced by European Cubism and Futurism. Breaking away from the previous realistic tendency, Russian Constructivism, to meet the ideology of the revolution, insisted the "Art into Street" and the "Art in Industry" with its abstract and geometric design. Russian Constructivism effected paintings of mid 1920's, as well as Industrial design and costume design. This operated remarkable changes in Russian form of costume and textile area. An unusual situation like revolution had provided the social justification to develop a new costume design not for the special class of people, but for the general public. In this atmosphere, the plan of clothing mass production began to progress. Although the Russian Constructivism costume of arts shows the similarity in the trend of fashion and the physical forms of those days, its fundamental idea in manufacturing costumes was 'to create costumes to be possible to mass-produce and to be wearable to anyone regardless of the social class'. Therefore, Constructivism costume of arts pursued dynamism and geometric form through non-objective design that has broken away from the handcrafted and traditional standards of the past. These distinct characteristics served as a momentum to seek costume design based on productivity and functionality.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.128-149
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• 2011

This study dealing with the Italian futurist and Russian constructivist costume designs which aimed for new fashion design freed from the conventional meanings of fashion and explore the artistic purpose reflected within the designs expressed differently according to cultural and regional differences in order examine the early 20th century Avant-grade costume designs. The scope of this study is limited to the 1910s to the 1930s when the Italian futurism and the Russian constructivism were originated and were most active. This monograph focused on the works of the Italian futurists, Giacomo Balla who declared the 'Manifesto delle moda minile futurista', Fortunato Depero, and Thayaht who suggested a new direction for the futurist, and on the works of the Russian constructivists Alexander Rodchenko, Varvara Stepanova and Liubov Popova. As an one method of investigated, this paper is used materials of various sources to examine their features. Futurists costume designs expressed a radical conception of progress and their source of aesthetics was dynamism. The concept of 'power' which was the basis of the futurists was incorporated in the costumes while non-symmetrical cut-outs and bright and vivid colors completed the futurist costume designs. Moreover the Russian constructivists brought advances in the field of fabric and textile designs. What was particularly interesting about the Russian constructivist costumes was that the artists worked at the textile mills themselves, directly involved in the designs and manufacturing of fabric, developing an advancement in textile and a new understanding of costume. Furthermore, many Russian artists settled in Paris, actively participating in the fashion industry, and therefore, they have greatly contributed to the development of the early 20th century Avant-garde costume designs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1083-1098
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• 2009

The purpose of the study is to revaluate the new artistic values of Suprematism that immensely influenced the Russian culture in the beginning of the 20th century. Also through studying the relationship between people and costume within works of Malevich, who wanted to portray humanity through his art works, this study will research on how Suprematism not just stood as Russian Avant-garde art but significantly contributed to art and costume expression. The study methods are as follows. First, consider the formative background of Suprematism style of arts. Second, study of the development of Suprematism art through both Suprematism art and Non-objective art. Third, study how Suprematism style of arts is portrayed in art costume through works of Malevich. The results of the study are as follows. The Russian Suprematism art costume strictly originated from the Russian Suprematism style of arts. Suprematism simplified any reproductive element of fine art with a creative energy, which reflects the statement of Malevich that said, "The object does not exist, it only stands as a symbol." In other words, Suprematism abolished ordinary response to basic environment, and created a much more serious reality than the innate reality of the environment. When applied to art costume, such style sought after geometrical simplicity in shape and Neo-Premitivism trait in color. This trend is also expressed in 21st century fashion in new forms of Minimalism or Futurism. In this respect, Suprematism still holds an artistic value in a novel form even after a century since the beginning of 20th century when Malevich first presented Suprematism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.398-418
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• 2024

This study aims to examine how the body and clothing of Jesus Christ are represented in the Russian Transfiguration of Christ icons of the 15th and 16th centuries and why it is considered to have established a distinct Russian iconography free from Byzantine influence. The study analyzes the Russian icons comparing them with their Byzantine prototypes to identify the distinctive 'Russianness' of the representation. The research methods comprise a qualitative analysis of the literature on Russian Orthodoxy, Russian icons, Christian theology, and Christ's clothing and an empirical analysis of the icons. The scope of the study is limited to Russian icons from the 15th and 16th centuries and Byzantine icons from the 9th century onwards. The study found that, compared to Byzantine icons, the Russian icons exhibit a more elongated body, darker facial features, and lighter clothing. A statistical analysis using the Mann-Whitney U test further revealed that the Russian icons feature a stiffer, simpler form, more opaque material, and more defined clothing boundaries. These stylistic differences suggest that the 'Russianness' in the expression of Christ's body and clothing in the Transfiguration of Christ icons derives from creativity, abstractness, and tradition. Rather than a simple recreation of the historical Christ or adherence to the Byzantine tradition, the Russian iconographic representation emphasizes Christ's transfiguration into a luminous form, as described in the Bible, accentuating his divine nature over his human aspects.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.425-448
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to compare fur clothing preferences of Korean and Russian women, and then to provide a beneficial data to Koran fur manufacturers who is working in Korea and advancing into Russia. 346 subjects were gather in Seoul and Moscow through convenience sampling method, and frequency, percentage, mean, x²-test, t-test were conducted for data analysis. The results were as follows: 1. Korean and Russian women's fur clothing buying motives, information sources, important factors on purchasing, purchasing, influences ere generally examined. 2. Russian women's fur clothing possession rate as well as fur clothing purchasing intention in the future were higher than Korean women's. 3. Fur clothing item, material, color, style, length which Korean and Russian women prefer were compared. 4. In case of shilhouette, Russia women showed high preference on swinger shilhouette, relatively Korean women preferred H-line. 5. In case of collar design, Russian women showed high preference on stand collar, relatively Korean women preferred notch collar or shawl collar. 6. In case of sleeve design, Russian women showed high preference on turn back cuffs sleeve, relatively Korean women preferred push-up sleeve.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2005년도 Fasion road:Korea to belarus
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• pp.19-20
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• 2005

• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today's fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2009

The superimposition of the Russian constructivist architectural design is one of the notable transforming techniques of conventional design principles. The main objective of this paper is to analyse the superimposed space in the modern fashion design based on the techniques and characteristics of superimposition appeared in Russian constructivism architectural space. The artistic characteristics of the superimposed design in the modern fashion design can be determined by codes of dynamics, sense of space, rhythmical sense, communications and tension of the dress. Through this study, it was found that superimposition of the Russian constructivist architectural design in the modern fashion design has influenced the modern fashion design space in the forms of dynamics with directive sense, vitality through transparency, uniformity with geometric interpenetrates, intensive visual attraction created by duplicity, communication between human body and clothes, creation of transformative beauty and enhancement of structural volume on clothes.