• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.95-105
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• 1998

SOO-BAL(Hair Style) is a method Which match hair style to face and clothes with using hair covering and protecting the head. Also SOO-BAL includes personal ornaments using to avoid one's hair be disheveled. In a standpoint of beauty and spirit, etiquette SOO-BAL is a very important thing as one being dressed up. Until now, since just a form of hair style have been studied, hair styling process is nothing to be known and studied. Time after time, our unique traditional SOO-BAL is forgotten with clothes and then this th-esis will be classified hair styling form follow-ing a form of hair style in royal palace of the C-hosun dynasty. According to the record of HAE DONG HISTORY, it shows the same of attire between Ko-rean and chinese style in ae of the chosun. The reason in that there were no any certain boundary border and the interaction of culture between two countries was happened spontaneously at ancient time like the GOCHO-SUN age. Until the period of the three states, the korean attire be changed had gone with chinese one s-imilarly. The chinese form gave to influence on the EONJIN MEURI·POON-GI-MYEONG MEURI·JJO-CJIN MEURI·MOOK-EUN GOONG-BAL MEURI·OL-LIN MEURI·SSANGSANG-TU ME-URI be drawn wall painting in the KOKUR-YU. And a gold chignon accesso-ry unearthed in a MOO-RYOUNG royal mausoleum is proof of the korean attrire be changed with chinese. In the shilla dynasty at three years after Cjin-Deuk(A.D. 649) reign. It was recorded that the dynasty let women wear the form of chinese attire. Also in the koryo dyn-asty, a rod-like hairpin (BIN-YEU) and DANG-GI employing EON-JIN MEURI was used. The SOO-BAL based on the Confucianism had lots of regulations which limited to use ornaments with classes of society in the CHOSUN dynasty. Until YOUNG CHO and CHUNG CHO period. EONJIN MEURI be decorated GACHAE was announced by dynasty as ind-ulging in luxury. Women of yangban used a rod-like hairpin and a chignon accessory made by jewerly. And 1-owly women weared a rod-like hairpin made of born and wood to perfom EONJIN MEURI with PUNCHAE. Most unmarried women decorated with DDA-AH-NEULIN MEURI, GUI-MIT MEURI, specially in palace with SAE-ANG MEURI. At palace, one put on a full dress with KEUN MEURI, and a simple dress with ER-YEO MEURI be decorated DDERL-JAM The CHOP-JI MEURI manifested social rank, class. Kids at CHO-SUN age had BA-DUK-PANMEURI and JONG-JONG MEURI. The ornament things are GACHE, DDERL JAM with EON-JIN M-EURI, and all kinds of rod-like hairpin and chignon accessory used in JJOK MEURI. IN DANGGE, JE-BI-BURI DANGGI used by ummarried women. DO-TOO-RAK DANGGI and AP DANGGI on a dress suit, and BE-SSI DANGGI used by 3∼4 years ungrown kids etc. were used. And at palace, kinds of CHUPJI used with JJOK MEURI showed social rank. In CHOSUN age, women want to keep shiny hair washed at TA-NO festival day, a treatment of bald hair used a forked remedy. In CHOSUN age, woman Soo-Bal hair style has DAE-SOO·DDEU-KOO-JI MEURI·CHO-P-GI MEURI·EON-JIN MEURI·SAE-ANG MEURI· and so on. We could find out Soo-Bal was developed very well by these variety hair styles. I attatched all of the hair style pictures step by step, and also explained detail my research foll owing these pictures.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.1-21
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• 2016

This article examined the different types of Jeonuhwa as recorded in 16 royal palace studies from the Joseon dynasty (1392-1909). The ingredients used in Jeonuhwa during the Joseon dynasty were categorized as follows: 16.0% for gray mullet(秀魚) and fish(生鮮), 14.2% each for liver and cow stomach, 12.3% for sea cucumber(海蔘), 4.7% each for crab(蟹), clam(生蛤), and chunyup(千葉), 3.9% each for pork meat(豬肉), octopus, 2.8% each for oyster(石花), pheasant(生雉), and chicken(鷄), 2.0% each for croaker(民魚), and brain (骨), 0.9% each for duck(鴨子), pigeon(山鳩), dobi(都飛), snapper, white fish(白魚), mussel(紅蛤), haeran(蟹卵), quail(鶉鳥), egg(鷄卵), and sesame(實荏子). This observation may be associated with commercial industrial development that prevailed during the late Joseon dynasty. Further studies will be conducted on recipes and ingredients recorded in Euigwe in order to develop a standardized recipe for Jeonuhwa.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.137-150
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• 2009

Performance costumes are an important element in the stages which set the tones and embody characters in the performances. This study focuses on Gisaeng's costumes in folk dance performances when Korea experienced modernization from Joseon Dynasty, and aims to examine the features of the costumes as well as how the costumes both influenced, and got influenced by, the rapidly changing society. Gisaeng had been legal entertainment performers of the government in the Joseon Dynasty and, despite careful training and talents, had inferior social status in Joseon's social hierarchy system. In the modern society, a new system of Gisaeng emerged and the first public theater opened. The advent of theaters changed performance stages and the ways performances are conducted. This study investigated Gisaeng's performance costumes by the type of folk dances, such as monk dance, palace dance, Salfuri dance, Jangu dance, and Ip dance. The study brings light to three conclusions. First, as folk dances which had been performed by civil dancers were spread to Gisaeng, Gisaeng's costumes absorbed the costumes of civil dancers. Also, royal costumes appeared in folk dance performances. This can be viewed as mixture of royal and folk dance costumes, resulted from interactions between Gisaeng and civil art performers associated with the modernizing society and the weakening of the old hierarchical class system. Second, as performing arts on stages were modernizing, performance costumes changed accordingly. Thirdly, Giseang's costumes in folk dances also adapted the introduction of the western culture, which largely influenced the fashion trends of people in the early modern society in Korea.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.61-72
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• 2023

Korean architecture classifies Banja (the decorated flat of the ceiling visible from the inside) of Royal Palaces into two types: Woomul(water-well, 井) banja, which inserts rectangular wooden board into lattice frame, and paper banja, which applies paper to the flat ceiling. Such classification was established in the 19th century. Before that, Banja was classified according to what was inserted into the lattice frame, either wooden or paper board. At first, the banja that used paper board was widely installed regardless of the purpose or nobility of the building. However, since the 17th century, the use of paper board banja became mostly restricted to Ondol (Korean floor heating system) rooms which are characterized by private usage and the importance of heating, and it was considered inferior to wooden board banja in terms of rank or grace. The contemporary paper banja was mainly installed in low-rank ondol rooms until the late 19th century to early 20th century, when roll-type wallpaper was introduced from the West and the paper banja came to decorate the King's and Queen's bedrooms. The traditional paper board banja benefits heat reservation, reduces the weight of the ceiling, and allows the adjustment of the lattice frame size. Furthermore, it can feature unique artistry if covered with blue, white, or red Neung-hwa-ji (traditional flower pattered paper).

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.4-21
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• 2018

This paper reviewed the legitimacy of the name of those sixteen pieces of hat artifacts known in Korean as pyeongjeongmo and currently housed by the National Palace Museum. This was undertaken in order to rectify the error of calling them pyeongjeongmo. Also, the paper suggested pyeongjeongmo's production method to apply representation of the artifacts or production of Joseon officials' hats as representation of ritual costumes in the royal court. The name pyeongjeongmo originated from pyeongjeonggeon. Gyeongguk Daejeon recorded that noksas wore yugak-pyeongjeonggeon and seoris wore mugak-pyeongjeonggeon, but the pyeongjeongmo artifacts housed in the National Palace Museum have been found irrelevant to those pyeongjeonggeons put on by both noksas and seoris. Rather, they has been confirmed as corresponding to dugeon or jogeon worn by byeolgams or suboks who served at the palace of the crown prince or princess. Through the investigation of the artifacts, the researchers could find out the tailoring and sewing methods, the finished look, and the folding manner of pyeongjeonggeon. Although the structure of pyeongjeonggeon was generally consistent, the frontal look was slightly different depending on the folding manner, resulting in three distinguished types of pyeongjeonggeon. Regardless, the pyeongjeongmo was made with one piece of fabric by a flat tailoring and folding method to create a three-dimensional hat. The finished shape appeared low in the front and high in the back side structure. The head girth was 55~59 cm, and the height was 19.4~21.5 cm. To make it with one piece of fabric, the head girth part was tailored in the same direction as the strands. Based on the artifact Changdeok 23820, this paper has also suggested a finished reproduction through the processes of preparing the materials, mounting, making the center ornaments, sewing and folding. The tailoring was completed with black silk fabric which was cut in a unique shape designed in advance, and hemp fabric which was mounted to the former. The top part of the head was finished with black threads, and the center line at the back was fixed with decolored cotton threads by blanket stitches with 3.5~4 cm intervals. Bamboo strands were inserted in the inside of the front-folded part, which then was fixed by patterned stitches with white cotton thread. At the back, a small bamboo clasp was attached so that one can lock it to the headband and prevent it from falling off.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.15-31
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• 2022

This study interpreted the logical validity of the landscape restoration and maintenance patterns of Changgyeonggung Palace, where modern landscapes coexist. The results of the study are as follows; First, the changes in the landscape restoration and maintenance attitude concerning the Changgyeonggung management organization were identified. With the establishment of the Office of the Imperial Garden, an imperial property was nationalized. The Cultural Heritage Managing Department was opened in 1961, and Changgyeonggung Palace were preserved as designated as historical sites in 1963. An environmental purification was implemented by the Changgyeonggung Office as a follow-up measure for restoration in 1983. As the Cultural Heritage Administration promoted in 1999 and the Royal Palaces and Tombs Center was established in 2019, the palace has been managed professionally as a palace landscape to provide a viewing environment. Second, In the 'Purification Period of Changgyeongwon(1954~1977)', environmental purification was carried out to restore amusement facilities, install facilities for cherry blossom viewing, and develop the place into a national zoo. In the 'Reconstruction Period of Changgyeonggung(1983~1986)', restoring function as an urban park, reserving green areas, the outside space was recreated in the traditional feel, and the forest area was generally maintained. In the 'Supplementation Period of Traditional Landscape Architecture Space(1987~2009)', a uniform green landscape was created with pine trees and various vegetation landscapes centered on the flower beds. In the 'Improvement and Maintenance Period of Viewing Environment(2010~2022), a master plan was reestablished on the premise of utilization, but maintenance has been carried out in a small scale centering on unit space. Third, regarding the validity of the landscape restoration and maintenance, It was found in terms of 'originality' that the recovery of the palace system has not been expanded for over 40 years in existing areas. The 'characteristics of the times', which shows whether multi-layered history was taken into account, Changgyeongwon was excluded from the discussion in the process of setting the base year twice. In terms of 'integrity,' the area of the Grand Greenhouse where the historic states coexists needs a maintenance policy that binds the greenhouse, carpet flower bed, and Chundangji Pond. The 'utility' identified as the utilization of spaces suggests the establishment of a sense of place in the Grand Greenhouse area, which is concentrated with programs different from other areas.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.3
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• pp.102-118
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• 2022

Gyeongju, the capital of Silla, is the very essence of the culture and technology of the thousand-year-reign of Silla. However, few studies have been conducted on the landscape sites of the capital of Silla other than Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, due to the lack of related data. Therefore, this study examined the construction characteristics and nature of the garden pond in Guhwang-dong, whose complete appearance was identified through excavation following Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond. Since the excavation of the garden pond in Guhwang-dong, Gyeongju, there have been disagreements in academia as to whether it is a palace pond or a temple pond of Bunhwangsa Temple. Considering the unique characteristic of the garden pond that it is divided into two periods, it was interpreted that it would have functioned as a ritual facility related to Ryong (oriental dragon) belief in the 6th to 7th centuries, the first period, and as a garden pond with enhanced landscaping functions in the 8th to 9th centuries, the second period. In addition, it is highly probable that it was the site of Cheongyeongung Palace (青淵宮) and Jochujeong Pavilion (造秋亭) mentioned in the literature records. The "ㄹ"- shaped waterway, a characteristic facility of the first period, was found; however, considering its width and depth, it is insufficient to conclude that it was a simple drainage facility. Rather, it is more likely that it functioned as a passageway for the conceptual entry of Ryong during Ryong rituals. Furthermore, some have suggested that it may have been a ceremony-related Yusang-goksu (流觴曲水) facility. These facilities related to Ryong rituals were reorganized in the second period. Specifically, the nature of the garden pond was changed centered on the landscaping function in connection with the addition of a curved revetment, garden stone, and pavilion buildings, and the dismantlement of the "ㄹ"-shaped waterway and hexagonal building. As for nature, it can be regarded as a royal facility in terms of decorative elements including the ritual function of the first period and the gwimyeonwa (ghost face tiles) of the second period. Judging from the fact that the upper part of the embankment adjacent to the west side of the site was removed, it is very apparent that the main building was located on the upper part of the embankment. There would not have been a large-scale building site because it served the functions of ritual and recreation, rather than being the residence of the king.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.87-97
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• 2013

This study was carried out to find the prototype of the rear garden in Changdeok Palace during King Jungjo's reign through Gang Sehwang's "Record of Strolling with King in the Forbidden Garden", and the site of this study included the whole areas of Ongnyucheon(玉流川), Mansongjeong(萬松亭), Mangchunjeong(望春亭), Jondeokjeong(尊德亭), Pyemwoosa and Taichungmun(太淸門). The characteristics of the area of Ongnyucheon described in Record of Strolling with King in the Forbidden Garden was the shape of Wiyiam expressed three-dimensional mountain such as the fence surrounding Soyojeong(逍遙亭) and the painting techniques of Fu Pi' ts'un and pond in front of Taegeukjeong(太極亭). The pond in front of Taegeukjeong(which was described by Gang Sewhang) is also identified in Donggwoldo(東闕圖) and this study judged that the pond was removed during the maintenance process of Ongnyucheon, where was scheduled as the place of entertainment when Chinggyong-Yesik(稱慶禮式: Royal court rites) was held to celebrate the 40th anniversary of King Gojong's reign. The characteristics of the whole area of Mangchunjeong where was the attraction point for flower viewing in the forbidden garden was surrounded by the sculptured fence, and Mangchunjeong which was hexagonal structure was located in the inside of the structure on both sides of the main building. The cornerstone was carved with white jade. Also a corridor assumed as Chunhyanggak(天香閣) was adjacent to Mangchunjeong. Gang Sehwang confirmed the space organization appeared in Donggwoldo by describing the attached building of Pyemwoosa, Taichungmun, and surrounding fence in detail.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.368-382
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• 2012

This paper investigated the system that is relevant to Jang(fermented soybean paste or solution), the relief of hunger-stricken people by Jang, 33 kinds of Jang, and its consumption in the documents, such as the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, Ihlseong-document, Seungjeongwon daily, Uigwe(record of national ceremony), official documents on the basis of Kyujanggak institute for the Korean studies and data base of Korean classics. There are lots of Jang named after the place of particular soybean's production from the ancient times. Jang, soybean, salt and Meju(source of Jang), during the Dynasty, were collected as taxation or tribute. In the 5th year of Hyeonjong(1664), the storage amount of soybean in Hojo(ministry of finance) was 16,200 $k{\ell}$, and its consumption was 7,694 $k{\ell}$ a year. In the 32nd year of Yongjo(1756), the 1,800 $k{\ell}$ of soybean was distributed to the people at the time of disaster, and in his 36th year(1756), the 15,426 $k{\ell}$ of soybean was reduced from the soybean taxation nationwide. The offices managing Jang are Naejashi, Saseonseo, Sadoshi, Yebinshi and Bongsangshi. Chongyoongcheong(Gyeonggi military headquarters) stored the 175.14 $k{\ell}$ of Jang, and the 198 $k{\ell}$ of Jang in Yebinshi. There are such posts managing Jang as Jangsaek, Jangdoo, and Saseonsikjang. In the year of Jeongjong(1777~1800), the royal family distributed the 3.6 $k{\ell}$ of Meju to Gasoon-court, Hygyeong-court, queen's mother-court, queen's court, royal palace. The 13.41 $k{\ell}$ of Gamjang(fermented soybean solution) was distributed to the Gasoon-court, 17.23 $k{\ell}$ to Hegyeong-court, 17.09 $k{\ell}$ to the queen's mother-court, and the 17.17 $k{\ell}$ to the queen's court each. There are 112 Jang-storing pots in the royal storages, and the 690 are in Namhan-hill, where the 2.7 $k{\ell}$ of fermented Jang was made and brought back by them each year. At the time of starvation, Jang relieved the starving people. There are 20 occasions of big reliefs, according to the annals of the Chosun Dynasty. In the 5th year of Sejong(1423), the 360 $k{\ell}$ of Jang was given to the hunger-stricken people. In his 6th year(1424), the 8,512.92 $k{\ell}$ of rice, bean, and Jang was provided and in the 28th year(1446), the 8,322.68 $k{\ell}$ of Jang was also provided to them. In the Dynasty, Jang was given as a salary. In case that when they were bereaved, they didn't eat Jang patiently for its preservation. They were awarded for their filial piety. In the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, there are 19 kinds of Jang. They are listed in the order of Jang(108), Yeomjang(90), Maljang(11), Yookjang(5), Gamjang(4), and etc.,. In Seungjeongwon daily, there are 11 kinds of Jang. Jang(6), Cheongjang (5), Maljang(5), and Tojang(3) are listed in order. In the Ihlseong-document, there are 5 kinds of Jang. They are listed in Jang(15), Maljang(2), Gamjang(2), and etc.,. There are 13 kinds of Jang in Uigwe, and the official documents, in the order of Gamjang(59), Ganjang(37), Jang(28), Yeomjang(7), Maljang(6), and Cheongjang(5). In addition, shi are Jeonshi(7), and Dooshi(4). All these are made of only soybean except, for Yookjang. The most-frequently recorded Jang among anthology, cookbook, the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, Ihlseong-document, Seoungjeongwon daily, Uigwe, or official document is Jang(372), and then Yeomjang(194), Gamjang(73), Cheongjang(46), Ganjang(46), Soojang(33), and Maljang(26), which were made of soybean. Jang from China in cookbook is not in anthology and royal palace documents. Thus, traditional Jang made of soybean was used in the daily food life in the royal court, and in the public during the Chosun period.

• Korean Security Journal
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• no.36
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• pp.139-176
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• 2013

It is believed that the Koryo dynasty era is the period which has very special meaning with regard to the history of the VIP guard system. The guard system in the early Koryo dynasty time focused on the official protection for kings and their families with absolute royal authority. On the contrary, the guard system in the late Koryo dynasty time, especially military regime period, conducted providing private protection for military rulers and increasing their power. The official guard troops named 2Gun6Wii became just perfunctory organizations at that time. That is the reason why this study develops the discussion only about the guard system of the early Koryo time. The official VIP guard organizations under the government structure of the early Koryo period were Naegoonbu, Byeongbu and Joongchoowon. This study particularly reviewed the Joongchoowon with thorough research. In the meantime, the guard organizations under the military chart of the early Koryo period were 2Gun6Wii, Gonghakgoon, Geonryonggun and so on. 2Gun consisted of ungyanggun and yonghogun. They were the royal bodyguards. This study especially tried to review the substance of the Gonghakgoon, Geonryonggun with different point of view from other theories. The Gumowwii, one of 6 Wii, conducted many official duties such as royal palace protection, capital city Gaesung defence, area patrols, criminal apprehension and disturbance prevention. It also accomplished crowd control and convoy mission at the streets to respond emergency cases while carrying out VIP protection roles for kings and Chinese diplomats. Many bibliographies verified that the Chunwoowii was the royal bodyguards which helped kings during state ceremonies and grand meetings held by kings. Consequentially, it is true that this study discovered, analyzed and evaluated various references and research materials related with the guard system. It is meaningful that this study newly reviewed the organizations and functions of the guard system as one structure.