• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.94-103
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• 2004

This study is to explore the '60s 'Retro' trend appeared in the 2003/2004 Fall ＆ Winter Pret-a-porter Collections which was held in the 4 major cities, Paris, Milan, London, New York on the February and March of the last year. It is often said that the '60s Retro trend is one of the most powerful fashion trends in the 2003/2004 season, and it really affects the modem fashion market nowadays. From this study, we can find that the '60s fashion mode certainly contains the 5 formative characteristics such as Minimal Look, Pop Art Fashion, Op Art Fashion, Space-Age Look, Femme-Enfant Style, and following these 5 characteristics of the '60s fashion mode the retrospective trend can be developed to finally create the '60s Retro Look presented in the 2003/2004 F/W Pret-a-porter Collections.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.19-20
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.147-159
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• 2013

This study aims at developing and producing the creative design of a lingerie look after reviewing the aesthetic value about lingerie look featured in John Galliano's works. As for the research method, the selection process from the works was followed together with literature review for empirical analysis over lingerie looks, where 2,764 pieces in total were reviewed from Galliano's Pret-a-Porter collections covering from 2001S/S until 2010F/W and Christian Dior's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter collections that he is in charge of as head designer and 291 pieces were finally singled out that show the lingerie look image well. Then, the formative expression was examined about those looks and the characteristics were induced from them. Formativeness expressed in Galliano's lingerie look, in term of lingerie style, was categorized as erotic, retro, and deconstructive. The glittering and smooth material like silk and satin, and the visible material like lace and chiffon were mainly used for material rather than foreign material. By doing so, the romantic and erotic image was highlighted. In the production method, it was grouped into transposition of wear, direct and indirect exposition, and deconstructive way. These aesthetic characteristics introduced by formative expression appeared in the form of eroticism, play, and deconstructiveness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.164-179
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• 2008

The Purposes of this study are to analyze the couture-like design characteristics expressed in modern fashion and to grasp its sociocultural meaning. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. Fashion writings and visual sources in Gap Pret-a-porter Collection, www.style.com, www.firstviewkorea.com are used. The results are as follows. First, couture ran be featured as a luxurious made-to-order design for individual clients with high quality fabrics, hand-craftsmanship, painstakingly perfect details and finishing. It is valued on authentic originality, uniqueness, aestheticism, and luxury. As the relationship between couture and mass fashion has changed, there appeared not only traditional couture for few privileged people, but also demi-couture which bridges the gap between luxurious couture and pret-a-porter. Second, couture-like designs in modern fashion are classified as (1)the adaption of house archive (2)retro with couture-like silhouette (3)hand-craftsmanship in details and finishing (4)individualization for only one client. They have sociocultural meanings, which are the reaction to the crisis of originality, new luxury for differentiation, the pursuit of new individualism thinking. Ultimately, it ran be thought that couture-like design in modern fashion results from the mutual needs between elitism fashion designer struggling in the hegemony of originality and reproduction, and modern consumer seeking for luxury, individualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1487-1496
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide guidance to plan bag design with an analysis of design properties of bags of famous overseas brands in a pret-a-porter fashion collection. For this purpose, the pret-a-porter fashion collection from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W is divided into the following sectors: brands, years, and seasons, focusing on the design elements. The reference for the actual study was 773 pictures of bags that were collected of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Christian Dior, Prada, Fendi and Etro collections. The results of this study are as follows. With regard to the character of the bag design classified by brand, the design property was embossed with all design elements. Therefore, we can use design elements to express design property, like bag design of famous overseas brands. With regard to the changes of bag design year by year, it was changed with almost all of the design elements. Therefore, it is noted that bag design do well to reflect the fashion trends of the year with almost all design elements. With regard to design properties of seasonal bags, bag design properties which are popular in the S/S season are circle form, small size, lively colors and so on. On the other hand, bag design properties which are popular in the F/W season are common form, large size, quiet colors and so on. Therefore, it is noted that bag design do well to reflect the seasonal trends.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.121-133
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• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate the way how the image of Korean costume could be introduced into the world fashion market, and appreciated by foreigners. For this purpose. 1 focus on analyzing the works of Lee, Yong-Hee presented in Pret-a-Porter Paris Collection and interpreting the image of Korean costume in her works. I propose some imperative factors essential to promote the participating of Korean costume into the world fashion market. Firstly. the Korean costume should be reevaluated and moderated in a degree, to be acceptable or accessible to foreigners. Secondly, the commerciality is to be stressed in the light of fashion industry dealing with the practical function of the costume. Thirdly, Our open-mindness to other culture would also make our costume to be more prevalent in world fashion market paradoxically. The Seoul Collection in 2000 fall was opened by Korean government on the recognition that the fashion industry is highly productive and helpful not only in cultural basis but in economics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.217-231
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• 1990

The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.97-111
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• 2000

The term Japonism was coined in France where the predilection for Japanese art forms was immediately apparent, influencing Impressionism, Symbolism, Post-Impressionism, and later the Art Nouveau movement, all of which reflect aspects of Japanese art adapted to Western style. The 1968 May Revolution in Paris changed traditional thinking and shifted the center of fashion of the 1970's from haute couture to pret-a porter. At about the same time, having recovered from the destruction of war, Japan started to emerge as a leading economic force. The Japanese clothing designers, who were inspired by their own traditions, began to present their collections in the West. Hanae Mori's dresses with Japanese floral motifs were the first to appear. The West was captivated by the colorfully layered clothing of Kenzo Takada inspired by peasant and working class kimonos. And Issey Miyake was acclaimed for his innovative concepts of ‘one piece of cloth'. In the 1980s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto achieved recognition with their deconstructivist and minimalist approaches to fashion. The clothing proposed by these Japanese designers has transcended not only national and sexual boundaries, but also those of accepted materials in which to work. These designs suggest new possibilities and are unrestricted by preconceived ideas of kimono or of Western clothing. The emergence of Japanese designers as a powerful creative force in the late twentieth century has created a new dimension to the term Japonism in fashion. By integrating the clothing traditions of the West and Japan, while at the same time departing from them, a new international genre of clothing has been created.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.489-500
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• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.1-12
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• 2004

This Study has examined characteristics of the popular culture of the contemporary fashion show by each element as follows The fashion show place expanded its area when It moved its center because of not only the use of ordinary and public friendly place but also adjacent places post-modernism thought. The installation stage was produced by organic combination with the stage using object: The technology for the stage has produced dynamic variability and variety enough to expand the stage. The dramatic element of production technique was introduced to the fashion show to shorten gap with ordinary life and transfer a theme by facial expressions, gesture and pose. etc of a model In addition. its performance element combines other genre freely to be one time and viewers' participating type technique. At the minimalism element, clothing functions moderately as main factor of the fashion show: Technical elements are added to emphasize future Images. At sound tracks and sound effects, the show's overall atmosphere has been revived to remake various genre of music and improve images. At the fashion model, objective appearance boundary is collapsed to expand model concept and make tools of their own. The fashion show has external values of active movement of associated industry as well as economic boost enough to produce jobs, and internal values to provide aesthetic rest and satisfactions to let the ones. who are isolated from recreation values and the society, establish friendly relations with the society