• 복식
• /
• 제61권8호
• /
• pp.100-113
• /
• 2011

The earlier notion of feminism regarding gender equality was changed into that of Postfeminism because of gender differences. The idea of Postfeminism has been present since the 1980s but has been influenced by modern culture theories such as Postmodernism, Poststructuralism, Theory of Power and Discourse and Psychoanalysis. Various features of Postfeminism are found in the medieval warrior images of contemporary fashion. Warrior costumes were men's exclusive property in the medieval ages, but as it is introduced as women's wear in the 21st century, it shows us new fashion images which are constructed by gender deconstruction, differences and pastiche. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to examine a key characteristic of Postfeminism fashion. An article described the historical costumes of medieval warriors and refocused on the development processes of feminism and then conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and Postfeminism tendencies in contemporary women's wear from 2000 to 2011. The results were that materials such as metallic and flexible materials, monotonic and red colors and detailed patterns of armor were used to display forms of exaggeration and restraint. These elements fully and correctly expressed the image of a medieval warrior woman in contemporary fashion. Postfeminism fashion is constructed with feminine power, gendered identity, sensual elegance and a postmodern body. Postfeminism is the contemporary cultural icon and is continuously influencing modern fashion design in the 21st century in a positive and powerful way.

• 복식
• /
• 제50권
• /
• pp.69-84
• /
• 2000

Th purpose of this study is three folds: to analyze postmodern fashion through the notion of pastiche to enhance an understanding of uncertain and confused situation in the late 1990s and to suggest a way of approach to creativity and originality in recent fashion design. The results can be summarized as follows: 1. Pastiche is an art work that borrows some parts of other artists authentic works and recombines them thus imitating their style technique or motifs selfconciously. 2. Pastiche is based onthe Deconstruction theory: the end of art as a result of deconstruction of the subject the collapse of the meaning the loss of history: the late Capitalism in which reality becomes chage into images or simulacre. 3. Pastiche represented by the death of author which means the exhaustion of creativity is shown in the fashion borrowing subculture styles and art works or religious images. Pastiche fashion which is equal to the play of signifiers floated as image is shown as graffiti and objects Time and space pastiche fashion can be explained by historical eclectism and ethnic looks, Finally pastiche means not the fixed aspect but the open concept of indeterminate condition which includes " anything goes" through the coesistence of various style in pastiche fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권7호
• /
• pp.1061-1073
• /
• 2009

Present expression methods have close relations with popular culture in the active acceptance of various kinds of genre. Fashion illustration is no longer limited to sketching garments or technically explaining construction, it is accepted as an art that is expressed by the desire and consciousness of the artist. This study examines the expressional characteristics and effects of photo-image appropriation as an expression method in fashion illustration. The word 'appropriation' (to steal something) is used as euphemism and not meant to be derogatory. The methods of appropriation in art indicate that paintings are not inventions but are self-satisfactory creations that show that the idea of originality is false and that paintings should be uninhibited from the greed of the authority of the genius of artists. In postmodern paintings, the photo-image of appropriation are expressed through the methods of re-photography, photo collage, and photo painting. Photo-image appropriation methods in fashion illustration are re-photography, photo collage, image mixing of photography, drawing, and graphic expression of photography. Fashion illustrators are able to develop expression techniques for expanding a field of expression and enhance the ability of communication through the photo-image appropriation methods.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권5호
• /
• pp.166-182
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion since the latter half of the 19th century in a contextual view, on the basis of Foucauldian idea of post-structural sexuality. As for research methodology, literary research was undertaken from the conception of sexuality to a historical review of the culture and dress. Foucault maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. In contextual approach sexual ideology codified in fashion since the latter 19C shows the following aspects: First, the traditional sexual ideology in the latter 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the dichotomized fashion of the period. Next, the former half of the $20^{th}$ C is regarded as the period of conformity rather than opposition with various alternatives appropriated to the mainstream, so the traditional sexual ideology in fashion of this period is still preserved. Finally, in post-capitalism period of the latter 20C a variety of anti-fashion visualized plural sexuality from the enormous oppositional discourses. Although it doesn't all mean deconstruction of sexuality in fashion by the anti-fashion re-appropriated without oppositional meanings, pluralization of sexuality implies dynamics of sexual discourses in the next historical period. As a result, fashion since the latter 19C has been changed as a means for expressing age and sexual desire out of gender and class. And mainstream fashion in even postmodern period keeps the modern value on the center of the hegemonic heterosexual masculinity though the increase of Androgynous Femininity in women's fashion may connote the meaning of femininity. The plural sexuality represented in fashion has a contextual flexibility, thus sexuality floats with a specific socio-cultural context and fashion represents a masquerade as an identity vehicle.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제16권1호
• /
• pp.1-21
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to typify femininity and masculinity represented in mainstream women's and men's fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and infer sexual ideology appearing in contemporary Korean society by content analysis with the view of plural sexuality. For the content analysis total 259 editorial fashion photography was analyzed. As the result, 5 femininities and 5 masculinities were typified, and then sexual discourse was inferred out of the frequency of each type and texts with the images. On the basis of previous studies and historical considerations of this topic, the types of sexuality represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 were classified as follow.: in women's fashion magazines Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity were almost similarily dominant sexuality, and Glamor Femininity, Babydoll Femininity, and Genderless sexuality were alternative. Meanwhile, in men's fashion magazines Traditional Masculinity formed clear dominant sexuality, and Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity, and Genderless sexuality were alternatives. In addition, Androgynous Masculinity in women's fashion magazines occupied the highest frequency, while Glamor Femininity in men's fashion magazines did so. From this sexual discourses represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 are as follow.: First, mainstream fashion in Korea sticks to the modern values preserving traditional sexual ideology even in this postmodern period of the former 21C. Second, Androgynous Femininity as another dominant femininity with Traditional Femininity connotes the change of conception of femininity in Korean society. Third, Androgynous Masculinity to females is preferred, while femininity to males is still regarded as fetish or adorned object. Fourth, the appearance of various alternative sexualities leads to pluralization of sexuality, and then fashion gradually codifies youthfulness and feminine values, such as body and sexual desire more than before.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제14권3호
• /
• pp.217-233
• /
• 2012

Placeness forms the traits unique to certain areas inducing people to visit there and purchase goods related to the place. The purpose of this study is to survey fashion images linked with placeness, by examining on-line and off-line fashion goods which claim the placeness. Hong-dae area in Seoul is selected for the case study, and the fashion goods claiming Hong-dae style or Hong-dae fashion are selected in order to analyze the fashion images. Hong-dae area, which was known for its art scenes and small restaurants in the 1980s, has been flourished its postmodern style cafes formed as yuppies-style consumer space in the 1990s. Foreign influenced subcultures were adopted, mimicked and mixed. Afterwards, dance clubs and live clubs gathered around this area. Recently, various local events to enhance the place identity such as "freemarket" and festivals are hosted by the local community. Based on the historical and regional background, the placeness of Hong-dae area is characterized with its artistry, counter-culturalism, and commercialism. The fashion images related of Hong-dae area fashion can be characterized as avant-garde image, art & craft image, kitsch image, vintage image, sexy casual image, and pop art image. The avant-garde image and the art & craft image are related with altistry and counter-culturalism. Kitsch image is related with the artistry, counter-culturalism, and the commercialism. Vintage image is related with artistry, counter-culturalism and commercialism. Sexy casual image is known to have commercialism of Hong-dae area, while Pop art image has its artistry and commercialism.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권1호
• /
• pp.109-123
• /
• 2004

In this study, the fashion trend after the 1990s and the characteristics of fashion in the postmodernistic viewpoint that mainly effected fashion were observed, and the characteristics of fashion illustration expression was observed in the viewpoint of its link. It can be seen that mutually close characteristics are mutually linked. As the result of this study, the characteristics of fashion illustration can be categorized into three areas. and the sub-concepts are as following. The first category is the pursuit of feminine beauty of individual multi-dimension. This includes- 1) retro feminine beauty; 2) fetishistic and ecstatic feminine beauty; 3) mixed composition genderless (mixed composition style. ageless style and raceless style): and 4) beauty of body deconstruction and reconstruction (deformation due to partial transformation, change into animalization, mechanization and spirituelization. and beautification of crudeness). The second is the intentional deviation of expression and production technique. This includes-1) deviation from traditional perspective; 2) deviation from composition concept: and 3) breaking away from the existing material and expression technique of material. The third is the pursuit of authority-rejection form of expression. This is an area that should be noticed in the fashion illustration expression of the 1990s, as it shows the most diverse phenomenon. The sub-concepts of this category include- 1) separation of art 2) minimalism (minimalism in structure and production method); 3) flatness; 4) completion of incompletion; 5) accidentalism; 6) sportive;7) absence of figure; 8) intentional childishness 9) story development; 10) techno mechanism and cyber character; and 11) animation style.

• 복식
• /
• 제50권4호
• /
• pp.5-20
• /
• 2000

Through his geometric design, the Cyprus born fashion designer Hussein Chalayan raises intriguing questions about the very fact of wearing clothes. By purposefully displacing the function of each part of the clothing, such as neck line, hem line, seam, sleeve, etc., Chalayan transforms the meaning of the body that wears clothes. of the human subject as a sovereign possessor of the clothing and the visibility related to fashion. This transformation is achieved by distorting the spaces of his clothing in an unorthodox way. This thesis argues that the significance of such a practice can not be properly understood without relation to the current debate on deconstructionism under way in humanities. Instead of immediately negating the modern frame of Ideas and practices, deconstructionism asks what the assumptions for the modern regime of truth is. In this process, things that lead human beings to sovereign master of knowledge and truth such as reason, subject, body and vision are questioned. In the same context, Chalayan's design not only forces us to rethink the very function of dividing inside and outside by the clothing but also the meaning of boundary operating in numerous sites of modern life. As the human subject is not something pre-given but constructed according to the cultural representation, to which the clothing belongs, fashion can be evaluated to be an active ingredient of constructing the subject. Therefore, Hussein Chalayan's design is at the cross road between the modern and the postmodern regime of fashion.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제16권2호
• /
• pp.249-262
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to contemplate evening dress in contemporary fashion, thereby to analyze aesthetic characteristics of evening dress. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey of evening dresses, and to conduct a case study of survey of fashion photographs covering $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}t$-porter design products from 2000 to 2007 presented by Valentine. Based upon the historical survey, there are five representative styles in evening dress. Flapper chic looks could be characterized by frequent usage of sleeveless straight silhouette with long or mini hemlines, expressing sensuality, luxury, and ethnicity. Satin Siren looks were characterized by bias-cut, slim, long silhouette, expressing sensuality and luxury. Feminine Ideal looks were characterized by hourglass silhouette and decolltage with feminine details such as bow, pleats and frills, expressing historicism, luxury and sensuality. Freedom and fantasy looks were characterized by ethnic details or modern silhouette with transparent, printed materials, expressing ethnicity, sensuality, and luxury. Finally, postmodern glamourous looks were characterized by body-conscious silhouette with transparent, shiny, or stretch materials, expressing sensuality, experimentalism and luxury.

• 복식
• /
• 제50권3호
• /
• pp.13-30
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.