• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.190-201
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• 2007

The purpose of this study Is to reinterpret sexuality represented in modern fashion with the conception of plural sexuality from post-structuralism in socio-semiotic approach. It consists of two parts.: The first part provides the theoretical background and the methodological framework of this study. The second part ultimately accomplishes this study by empirical research, which is to infer plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and sexual ideology signified in modern fashion. In this part the theoretical background was focused on the conception of sexuality on the basis of Foucault's idea, and then the framework for this study was made up from socio-semiotic perspective. The conception of sexuality in Foucauldian post-structural idea maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. Socio-semiotics suggests a contextual methodology to analyze the phenomena of material culture by articulating the range of material objects with that of ideology. The socio-semiotic model applied to sexuality represented in fashion is the framework of classifying into the several versions of fashion images from fashion as a material object and then inferring sexual ideology codified in them. In addition, three stages of producer/object/user in socio-semiotics were revised into 'dominant sexuality' with mainstream fashion out of dominant discourses,'oppositional sexuality' to create anti-fashion from oppositional discourses of subculture, and 'alternative sexuality' to be appropriated to dominant discourses by the mix of mainstream fashion and anti-fashion.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.39-54
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• 2006

Focusing on the emergence of the basic course in American schools of architecture, in particular Gyorgy Kepes' courses at MIT, this paper studies the transformation of architectural pedagogy during the years after World War II. Kepes centered his architectural pedagogy on the picture plane, which was to function as the primary media for applying the principles of Gestalt psychology, that is the identification of the whole and its parts and the reciprocity between the internal human organism and the outside world. Kepes hence introduced a set of unconventional visual practices that were not readily assimilated to architectural conventions. Paralleling the establishment of the basic course, MIT also formulated a functionalist and spatial pedagogy with its two initial design studios, courses 4.721 and 4.722. These studios shared the notion that architectural design evolved from the inside toward the outside, an idea that took hold not just in the pragmatic environment of MIT's studios but also in conservative academic programs as well as in popular magazines, picture books, and exhibitions for the consumer public. The architectural surface became inseparable from the objects of art, furniture, and design, all of which were to be the generators of space. Hence, during the 1950s, the architectural surface provided a specific locus of intersection between the visual fundamentals of the basic course and the working principles of architectural design. Kepes, however, had by this time become disillusioned with architecture's potential as the medium of unity. Though he maintained the Gestalt logic of identity, he expanded it toward the goal of grander synthesis of society and consciousness freeing himself from the constraints of disciplinary instruction. In the case of Kepes, the mediating role of the picture plane was foregone in a regressive turn toward a primal, innocent, and direct experience.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.75-87
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to find trends in new media fashion content by analyzing the fashion content of the official Instagram accounts of domestic fashion magazines that are being transformed by digital media. The framework for these analysis of fashion content type and methods of production is based on one used in an earlier research project. Empirical analysis is conducted on Vogue Korea's official Instagram accounts, using the highest number of major views as the secondary measure of interest. After screening for fashion content in posts on the Vogue Korea account for four months, 291 short video postings were extracted to analyze the number of views the postings received. The results were categorized as 'star', 'show/exhibition', 'product', 'shop', 'fashion film', 'designer', or 'event', included in the data are the number of postings by type and the number of views by post. Based on the characteristics of the creator and the editing, the posts were classified into 'professional production highlight', 'professional production private', 'UCC' or 'GIF' videos, the number of views per post were also collected. The research results show different levels of interest depending on the type of fashion content, and also on the way the videos were produced. The study also investigated how the combination of these two factors affects interest. When producing a new media fashion content, combining a 'star' type post with 'professional production private' video content was most popular. The selection of production method is therefore important even given the same type of content.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.67-74
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• 2000

The clothing behavior of male homosexuals were examined. Especially their clothing preference, clothing purchase behavior and clothing symbols as a group took were analysed. The subject was 49 male-homosexuals and the survey was done at the tray bars in Yi-Tae-Won in Seoul. The questionnaire and interview method were broth used to collect the data. The findings from the study were as follows : 1. The casual style was mostly preferred and lightly-fitted style was more preferred than loose style. Both straight type blue jeans and tight-fit style were widely worn by the subject. 2 Among design, price, color, fashion trend and sewing quality. design was the most important factor In clothing purchase. Besides design, color and fashion trend were counted more seriously than price or sowing quality. Blue and black were preferred as clothing colors. 3. Department stores were the most popular shopping place. and then traditional markets and shops near Universities were also preferred. Over 60% of the subjects answered that the decision of clothing purchase was made by himself and 20% of the subject used friend as personal information sources. The score stimuli was the most frequently used information for apparel shopping, and fashion magazines were also used as an important information source. 4. The clothing related symbols used to represent group look were lightly-fitted style. right ear-piercing, tight-fit plaid pants, leather look, rainbow flag, bandannas, reversed triangle. etc. And the subjects thought the symbols were not meaningful as group look because they were already adopted by the non-homosexual people. And they thought that their style of fashion has influenced on that of mass.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.87-98
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• 2007

The development of mass media in the $20^{th}$ century has resulted in the rapid growth of the fashion industry. Fashion magazines like are performing the function of spreading new styles in addition to simple provision of fashion trend information. Therefore, the present study tracked the trend of changes in the cover models of USA during the last 10 years $(1997{\sim}2006)$, and examined qualitative and quantitative changes in the contents of USA for the last 20 years. According to the results, $50{\sim}75%$ of cover models were super models during the period from 1997 to 2006, but the percentages of fashion models and celebrities became similar to each other in 2001, and from 2002 to 2006 celebrities occupied around $75{\sim}92%$ of cover models. When the contents of USA were analyzed by category, columns that showed strength in 1986 but decreased gradually until 2006 were style suggestions(p<.001), fashion shooting on the theme of TPO and items(p<.05). Fashion columns that showed weakness in 1986 but increased through the 1990s and until 2006 were celebrity style(p<.05), item introductions(p<.001), shopping information(p<.001), designer interviews(p<.05) and fashion shooting on the theme of mood and celebrity(p<.05). These results suggested that the function of USA as a fashion magazine was mainly the provision of information on how to wear the new styles in 1986, but nowadays the contents have changed to information on what to buy. In addition, the results show that contents using highly popular celebrity increased rapidly in the 2000s.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.763-776
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.126-142
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• 2007

The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.31-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's fashion from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. On the basis of the theoretical investigation, this study analyzed 932 pictorials from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and S.F.F.A's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The 932 samples are classified into apparel types, silhouette, pattern, color, type of breasts, shape of collar, number of button, type of inner wear. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. The two-piece style prevailed in men's wear during the 60s, 70s, and 90s, while separate style prevailed during the 80s. H silhouette was the most popular during the 60s, 70s and 90s, however, X silhouette dominated the 70s. For patterns, solids were most frequently used throughout the whole 4 decades. In colors, gray was most frequently used during the 60s, and multi color was most frequently used during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Throughout the whole decades, single breast, tailored collar, two buttons, and dress shirts were the most prevalent styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.87-99
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the successful modernization strategy, and the difference between original Burberry and Burberry Prosum design. This will help in providing the fundamental information to Korean luxury fashion brands. Burberry, in particular, is rated as the most popular luxury brand in Korean fashion market. This brand has also rated 5th in sale worldwide and 1st in Korea in 2002, and was continuously been rated in 10th for the last 5 years. Related articles, fashion magazines, fashion web-site were used in this analysis, and the method was theoretical and case study. The results are divided into two categories of internal and external factors and two design patterns of check pattern and trench coat were observed. First of all, internal factor in Burberry is that they have scouted a new CEO and quickly changed their image with famous British models for the purpose of marketing strategies. They have also moved their main shop in London to Bond street, and opened shops in every country's capital cities. They were successful in achieving this by using celebrity marketing strategies with many famous celebrities. Secondly, external factor was that they have hired a designer named Christoper Bailey and this highlighted and enhanced the check pattern and trench coat. As a results, more generalized and diverse design items were presented and accessory line was enhanced, creating a much more younger image. This in turn attracted more younger customers. To sum up, original Burberry focused on classic designs, however Burberry Prosum focused on transforming traditional Burberry design into avant-garde and young. In other words, the reason for the success of this brand is highly dependent on its marketing strategies in which its uniqueness of schizophrenic cloche has appropriately represented and used in design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.157-175
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to establish a theoretical concept of nudism from sociocultural context, to examine its formative characteristics, to analyze the cultural meaning of nudism style showing in the 2000's fashion world, and to analyze and examine its aesthetic qualities. The way of a study was based on analysis and review on philosophy, aesthetics, sociology, popular culture and various documents at home and abroad and previous study and research materials about art and clothes for theoretical study. Also, we carried out a case study by analyzing photo data from fashion books, magazines and internet websites, considering the body and dress as visual objects. The summary and conclusions of this study are as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into change of understanding of the body and liberation of the body; naturalism; resistant culture; psychoanalysis context. 2. The formative characteristics of nudism style in fashion are classified in Exposure, Transparency and Body Conscious. 3. The cultural meaning of nudism style expressed in the 2000's fashion are sexual opening, surfeit of mass media, pursuit of naturalism, lookism, and individualism. 4. Nudism style expressed in 2000's fashion is drawn as three aesthetic qualities: Eroticism, Primitivism and Futurism. First, Eroticism of nudism style fashion which seeks for sexual stimulus is classified in Sensualism, Provocation and Innocence. Second, Primitivism of nudism style fashion which tends towards naturalism objecting to mechanic and digital civilization and hoping for return to the origin is classified in Primitivism, Naturalism and Sensualism as per aesthetics qualities. Futurism which is the nudism style presenting futuristic expression through using a new material is analyzed as High Technology, Cyber Sexism and functional Future.