• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.249-262
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to contemplate evening dress in contemporary fashion, thereby to analyze aesthetic characteristics of evening dress. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey of evening dresses, and to conduct a case study of survey of fashion photographs covering $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}t$-porter design products from 2000 to 2007 presented by Valentine. Based upon the historical survey, there are five representative styles in evening dress. Flapper chic looks could be characterized by frequent usage of sleeveless straight silhouette with long or mini hemlines, expressing sensuality, luxury, and ethnicity. Satin Siren looks were characterized by bias-cut, slim, long silhouette, expressing sensuality and luxury. Feminine Ideal looks were characterized by hourglass silhouette and decolltage with feminine details such as bow, pleats and frills, expressing historicism, luxury and sensuality. Freedom and fantasy looks were characterized by ethnic details or modern silhouette with transparent, printed materials, expressing ethnicity, sensuality, and luxury. Finally, postmodern glamourous looks were characterized by body-conscious silhouette with transparent, shiny, or stretch materials, expressing sensuality, experimentalism and luxury.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.199-212
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• 2015

Environmentally-friendly whole-cut designs can minimize carbon dioxide emissions which are harmful to the earth, and reduce energy, labor force and time in cutting or sewing clothes. The design and way of wearing clothing will be investigated by classifying whole-cut clothing appearing in the history of costume and past traditional outfits such as Drapery, a Pancho, Tunic, or Loincloth. According to the results from the analysis of whole-cut methods applied in design, they were classified as follows: whole-cut, utilizing square-panels as is, pleats, smoking, lip band, origami, cutting way, and subtraction-cutting whole-cut design. The whole-cut design utilizing square panel as it is can minimize the waste of energy and material but can also maximize the possibility of circulation by recycling. In utilizing an all square panel, it broke away from the existing whole-cut in the western pattern, namely, the pattern of clothes clinging to the body, and was found to have new aesthetic value with a new approach. Due to the whole-cut method having a restriction in the use of dart and line cutting in its designing process, there were only designs that did not show the body line, such as designs clinging to the body. Therefore we developed a design similar to those that cling to the body by whole-cut, In addition, the work produced was with high efficiency and variability, which produces simple designs but can be worn in a variety of ways.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.191-206
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• 2013

Nowadays consumers have begun to have interest in eco-friendliness, and re-design is being highlighted as a fashion alternative for consumers with interest in ethical consumption. This study established the concept of re-design fashion as a way to practice eco-friendly design and analyzed various re-design fashions with four types. And it also analyzed decorative and structural details being often employed for re-design. This study intends to suggest new alternative fashion in order to develop re-design fashion design that can satisfy both eco-friendliness and practicality. The results of the research are as follows: First, according to the result of analyzing re-design fashion types, they can be divided into the types of developing new products through combination of decorative details, combination of structural details, development of new fabric through fabric reconstruction, and reconstruction to different products. Second, according to the result of examining the details that can be used to develop new re-design fashion products, pleats, shirring, tuck, peplum, or tab's decorative details and neck-line, collars, sleeves, cuffs, or pocket's structural details are utilized often. Third, total seven recycled clothes were used to design three works taking decorative and structural details. Through this, the study suggests re-design fashion products that can solve environmental pollution resulted from wastes of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.993-1004
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• 2002

This study was designed to examine the aesthetic characteristics of traditional wedding dress in Japan based on the internal$.$external aesthetics. They were extruded external and internal aesthetics based on pattern, color and fitting. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Decorative characteristics in external aesthetics extracted into three factors; fantasticism, movement, amusement. The fantasticism was based on the omitted pattern, painting gold. The movement was presented through irregular composition, fitting method, and silhouette. The amusement was expressed through the composition focus on a near view and pattern reminded of bring up the image. Fitting characteristics in external aesthetics extracted into four factors; grace, cubic effect, optical illusion, and tradition. The pace was expressed through the weight, formativeness, and layered look The cubic effect was presented through spacing of belt and H-line silhouette. The optical illusion was based on the straight line of seam, V-pleats and straight silhouette of fitting, and high-waisted belt. The tradition expressed through the unchanged form since Heian-dynasty. Internal aesthetics were characterized by the naturalism and the moderation. The naturalism was presented through the natural pattern which based on subjective feeling, indignity and position of wearing man, and color based on taste. The necessaries, or pressed artificial moderation, were expressed through the clothing silhouette by simplicity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.531-539
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• 2007

The purpose of this article was to determine how the current auto mechanic's coverall restricts movements, to develop prototype coverall, and finally, to improve working efficiency. To investigate the problem and complaint of current coveralls, 35 mechanics were interviewed. Video captured method was used to analyze the representative movement. Based on the previous investigation, the prototype coverall was developed. Pleats and band were inserted on each side of the back, under the armhole, and the back waist area for flexibility. To analyze the mobility of current and prototype coveralls objectively, range-of-motion of selected movements was measured by Leighton flexometer and goniometer. Also, wearer acceptability scale was tested to investigate subjective preference of current and prototype coveralls. As subjects, 10 auto mechanics were participated. Order of testing was randomized. ANOBA and LSD were used for statistical analysis. As a results, prototype coverall was significantly different from current coverall at all test movements. Also, prototype coverall was significantly different from current coverall at 13 scales among 23 subjective scales. The results identified that prototype coverall design improved auto mechanic's body movement and subjective acceptability.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.134-147
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to create smart wear that brings out the perspective person's individuality and creativity wearing these garments through various interactions. It is intended to build a prototype for a "Shape-folding Dress", which is length-adjustable skirt that responses with the environment of the wearer. In this process, four basic physical properties can be identified with fabric samples selected which are relatively stiff, including fusible interlining, organdy, silk, and ramie. In addition, two types of folding pattern specimens, "Basic Pattern" and "Diamond Pattern", and heat-steam were used to make the specimens so that the correlation could be calculated by recovery rate among flexing, stiffness and tensile properties. As a result, compared to other fabrics, the silk showed low stress to repeat folding and unfolding process, and its recovery rate of elongation deformation was stable without being affected by the different folding types and twice repeated process. In this study, forming a circuit using an Arduino, illuminance sensor, motors, and pulley, the prototype was created with a silk fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.13-29
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze eroticism shown in the fashion of Lady Gaga's music video. This study methods taken theoretical consideration and then was classified eroticism based on previous studies and was analyzed costumes from Lady Gaga's music video. The results of this study were as follows: Avant-garde style exaggerates shoulders, hips, a hat or uses metal and glossy material, tape, leather and it was expressed into emphasizing or baldly exposing breast. Primitive style was expressed in ethnic style and animal patterns, lingerie look with drastic, bald exposing fashion. Romantic style was expressed using rococo style costume, frill, pleats, decoration and was produces eroticism with see-through look or costume fitting to the body. Sportive style expresses a healthier and erotic image using tight costume in yellow, blue and black while exposing belly and legs. Janus-faced style was expressed by dressing up like a man or using the method of attachment and exposure in clergy's costume. Humorous style was expressed by emphasizing parts of body or costume itself. As examined in the above, Lady Gaga was expressed various eroticism images in her music video and is builds her own sexually appealing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.173-188
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the collaboration and artification of the Issey Miyake fashion brand and to suggest the best course of artification that can secure the brand's value. The research methods are as follows: i) identifying the companies' strategy and flow through collaboration concepts and examples from Issey Miyake; ii) selecting Issey Miyake fashion brands and carrying out a literature review through websites, articles, and books; and iii) examining prior studies on the relationship between fashion and art. Results are as follows. The exhibition is divided into spaces for brand intangible assets, artistic collaboration with partners, art co-creation, and the aesthetics and tradition of the brand. Using exhibitions to share the artistic work of collaboration partners is expected to positively affect the brand's likability. The exhibit shares art collaborations in display cases for clothes and photographs. Artists and brands appear as an extension of the creative space and convergence design area. The artist's improvisation forms the creative space that communicates with the audience, and the convergence design area is expanded through the unifying organic connection between the various media in the fashion brand. The photographers and brands section displays the nature images of Pleats Please, as well as human and prism garment images. In these images, the viewer can perceive a story in the interplay between the human body and nature.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.95-109
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze the formative characteristic and the aesthetic values of Romantic style. To attain the goal of this study, the selected objects are the Romantic styles that were prevalent from the 1830s to the 1880s. The methodology for this study consists of literary research, aesthetics, dress and case study based upon the analysis of the 19th century dress. Based upon the theoretical study, two results are derived from the analysis of Romantic style in $19^{th}$ century dress. First, the formative characteristics of Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The suppression of body is embodied by two ways. One is tightening body parts, such as the off-the-shoulder line and the corset, and the other is applying weights on body through the wearing of layers of petticoat, crinoline and bustle. The characteristic of the fixed form created the fixed silhouettes of women's dress, for example, an X-silhouette formed with wide shoulders created by big puffed sleeves, narrow waist by corset, and wide hemline of voluminous skirt and petticoats. In addition to the X-silhouette, the bustle style created fixed h-silhouette. Volume in the women's dress were visually expressed by big puffed sleeves, a huge skirt and petticoat made with gathers, pleats and flounces, crinolines and a bustle. Ornamentation was used to express an elegant and fantastic style not only by using luxurious materials in various colors and patterns, but also by applying sumptuous details and trimmings. Second, the aesthetic values of Romantic style dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. Women's dress of the 19th century not only restricted free movement and symbolized men's wealth and status, but also was used as an important tool for seducing men by exposing and accentuating the sexual body, thus becoming a symbol of fertility as a metaphor of pregnancy and uterus. These aesthetic values represented in dress incorporated the contemporary requirements of women of the time.