• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국전산유체공학회 2004년도 춘계 학술대회논문집
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• pp.119-125
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with each other. The marker-density method is better then the hybrid method. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.61-69
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• 산업기술연구
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• 제17권
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• pp.277-289
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• 1997

The numerical model for prediction of longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach is developed using the longshore component of the depth-integrated momentum balance equation. To predict the longshore current, the wave height model should first be formulated because the longshore current depends on the wave height directly. Two wave model, regular wave model and random wave model, are developed based on the energy flux balance equation. Also, the numerical model estimating the set-up inside the shoreline is developed using both the on-offshore momentum equation and the moving boundary technique. The numerical models are verified by the analytical solution, and compared with laboratory data. It is found from the comparison that developed models may be predicted accurately the longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2006년 창립20주년기념 정기학술대회 및 국제워크샵
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• pp.457-460
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the variation characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach due to the plane distribution of submerged breakwaters. In this study, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation, which is able to simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D) has been newly developed. A comparison between the numerical model and existing experimental results was made to verify accuracy of newly proposed LES-WASS-3D model, and showed fairly nice agreement. In addition, based on the LES-WASS-3D model, the variation characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach are discussed with relation to the offshore distance and opening width of submerged breakwaters.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.116-122
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to examine the effects of shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters on 3-D wave breaking characteristics over them. First, the numerical model, which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), has been validated by a comparison with Goda's equation for breaking wave heights. And then, using the numerical results, the wave breaking points over the crest of submerged breakwaters have been examined in relation to the shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the wave height distribution and upper flow around submerged breakwaters have been also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the beach.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.346-351
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• 2017

The aim of this paper is to apply the Crowhurst-Zhenquan scheme to one-dimensional Madsen-Sørensen extended Boussinesq equations. In order to verify the application of the aforementioned scheme, the propagation of solitary waves was simulated for two different cases of submarine topography; e.g., a plane beach and submerged breakwater. The simulated results are compared to the results of recent studies and show favorable agreement. The behavior of progressive waves is also investigated.

• 한국해양학회지:바다
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.228-233
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• 1998

본 연구는 비측량용 사진기를 이용한 근거리 사진측정법을 적용하여 해빈단면을 추정하는 방법을 제시한다. 수평면 위에 고정된 비디오로부터 획득한 경사비디오영상을 해석하는 방법을 기초로 다음 두 가지 관점을 고려하여 경사사진 해석에 적합한 방정식을 유도하였다. (1) 사진기가 광축에 대하여 회전되는 것을 허용하였다. (2) 정확도를 향상시키기 위하여 렌즈왜곡을 비롯한 사진 계통상의 오차를 보정하는 단순한 오차모형을 도입하였다. 수정된 방정식을 검증하기 위하여 1998년 2월에 동해시 해빈에서 사진촬영과 정밀한 수준측량을 수행하였다. 그 결과 근거리 사진측정을 통한 해빈단면 추정값과 실제 측량값 사이의 수직거리에 대한 RMS 오차는 10 cm 이내였다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.187-196
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• 1998

해안 구조물인 돌제(groins)의 축조로 인한 해안 지형 변화를 수치모델을 통하여 살펴보았다. 수치모델은 크게 파랑과 흐름을 계산하는 동수력학적 부분과 이로부터 구해진 외력을 이용하여 지형변화를 계산하는 퇴적물 이동부분으로 구성된다. 본 연구에서 일정한 경사를 갖는 해안에 축조된 한 개의 돌제 및 3개의 돌제 시스템에 수치모델을 적용하여 파랑 및 흐름 양상의 변화로 인한 퇴적물 이동 양상과 150일간에 걸친 해안지형 변화를 계산하였다. 또한 시간에 따른 돌제 통과 퇴적물 이동량 변화도 살펴보았다

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.59-62
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• 1992

경사가 일정한 해안에서 단조파의 쇄파조건을 다룬 Carrier-Greenspan 이논을 일반화시켜 복잡한 실제 지형에까지 적용시킬 수 있게 하였으며 따라서 종래 주로 경험에만 의존하던 쇄파대내의 파낭변형에 이논적 배경을 제공하였다. 포물선형태의 지형을 대상으로 계산하였으며 이들 결과로부터 비선형성이 강한 쳐오름(run-up) 문제를 선형화시킴으로 나타나는 영향에 대하여도 검토하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.34-39
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to investigate the inundation characteristics over coastal area due to the variation of sea level and plane arrangement of manholes using the 3D numerical model that is able to simulate directly interaction of WAve Structure Sandy beach(LES-WASS-3D). At first, The adopted model was validated through the comparison with an existing experimental data and showed fairly nice agreement. And then, the inundation characteristics over coastal area are discussed in relation to the variation of sea level and plane arrangement of manholes.