• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.03a
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• pp.119-125
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with each other. The marker-density method is better then the hybrid method. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-69
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.17
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• pp.277-289
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• 1997

The numerical model for prediction of longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach is developed using the longshore component of the depth-integrated momentum balance equation. To predict the longshore current, the wave height model should first be formulated because the longshore current depends on the wave height directly. Two wave model, regular wave model and random wave model, are developed based on the energy flux balance equation. Also, the numerical model estimating the set-up inside the shoreline is developed using both the on-offshore momentum equation and the moving boundary technique. The numerical models are verified by the analytical solution, and compared with laboratory data. It is found from the comparison that developed models may be predicted accurately the longshore current with set-up/down effect on a plane beach.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.457-460
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the variation characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach due to the plane distribution of submerged breakwaters. In this study, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation, which is able to simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D) has been newly developed. A comparison between the numerical model and existing experimental results was made to verify accuracy of newly proposed LES-WASS-3D model, and showed fairly nice agreement. In addition, based on the LES-WASS-3D model, the variation characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach are discussed with relation to the offshore distance and opening width of submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.116-122
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to examine the effects of shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters on 3-D wave breaking characteristics over them. First, the numerical model, which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), has been validated by a comparison with Goda's equation for breaking wave heights. And then, using the numerical results, the wave breaking points over the crest of submerged breakwaters have been examined in relation to the shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the wave height distribution and upper flow around submerged breakwaters have been also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the beach.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.346-351
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• 2017

The aim of this paper is to apply the Crowhurst-Zhenquan scheme to one-dimensional Madsen-Sørensen extended Boussinesq equations. In order to verify the application of the aforementioned scheme, the propagation of solitary waves was simulated for two different cases of submarine topography; e.g., a plane beach and submerged breakwater. The simulated results are compared to the results of recent studies and show favorable agreement. The behavior of progressive waves is also investigated.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.228-233
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• 1998

This study presents a close-range photogrammetry that is applicable to beach profile estimation using a non-metric camera. Based on the analysis of oblique video image in which the video camera was installed on a horizontal plane and the field of view was fixed, a new equation to analyze a photograph was developed considering the following aspects: (1) camera is allowed to be rotated about its optical axis and (2) a simple error model is adopted to correct lens distortion and other systematic errors associated with the non-metric camera, which improves accuracy of non-metric imageries. To test the modified technique, photographs of the beach were taken near the Donghae City in February, 1998. In addition, beach profiles were surveyed with conventional dumpy level and surveying staff. RMS error between the estimated and measured beach profiles is less than 10 cm in elevation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.187-196
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• 1998

Morphological changes around the groin system in the beach are examined using a numerical model. The model consists of two parts : the hydrodynamic model which calculates the transformation of waves and currents, and the sediment transport model which determines sediment transport rates and bottom topographic changes. The numerical model is applied to single-groin and three-groin systems on a typical plane beach. The changes to the beach system due to waves and currents during 150-day simulation near the groins are calculated using sediment transport rate patterns in the domain. The sand by-passing rate patterns around groins are also evaluated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.59-62
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• 1992

Empirical criteria for wave breaking on the coastal slope are substantiated theoretically for complex-shape basins. The theory developed here is a generalization of Carrier-Greenspan theory for a plane beach. The place and role of the linear theory for the description of run-up problem is discussed. The height of run-up on the beach of the basins with a “parabolic” profile is calculated for originally monochromatic wave.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.34-39
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to investigate the inundation characteristics over coastal area due to the variation of sea level and plane arrangement of manholes using the 3D numerical model that is able to simulate directly interaction of WAve Structure Sandy beach(LES-WASS-3D). At first, The adopted model was validated through the comparison with an existing experimental data and showed fairly nice agreement. And then, the inundation characteristics over coastal area are discussed in relation to the variation of sea level and plane arrangement of manholes.