• 복식
• /
• 제30권
• /
• pp.295-306
• /
• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제10권3호
• /
• pp.45-60
• /
• 2001

The Tongdo temple have been transformed continuously since its first establishment about 1300 years ago. Nevertheless three critical elements specified by 'Jajangyulsa', founder of the temple have not varied over the times but rather strengthened and strongly combined. All elements and doctrines of the religion coexist and form a harmony within the whole of the temple. This researcher examined what changes, or combinations, in spatial formation were sought for such unique structures of the Tongue temple by focusing mainly on the Sangrojun area of the temple to obtain the following findings. First. unlike a work by a Japanese researcher 'Sekino Tadashi', the east yard of the main building was found located on the section line which corresponded to the separation line of Yungkuncheokdo(營建尺度=measure running) from the edge of the Keumkangkyedan(金剛戒壇 =Buddhist platform) embankment to the corner column of the Kamrodang. This was confirmed as a result of the review of photos shown in [Chosun Kojukdobo]. Second, the number of stairs used for the Keumkangkyedan was thought to become three when the temple was firstly restored in 1379 as a result that this researcher reviewed Chinese literature 'DoSun' and [Kyedandokyung(戒壇圖經)], records by 'Lee saek' and 'Jung Shihan', studies of Yungkun measure and actual changes in the temple. Then the temple was forth restored in 1705 when the second of the stairs was changed in area and height and at the same time grounded hard for a space for a Buddhist service. Third, the roof of the main building was probably changed in shape during the Koryo period when the plane structure, furnish arrangement, emphasized front, stone lanterns of the building and political factors of that time were all considered. Fourth, the main building was Initially designed to provide a Buddhist sermon service which was assumedly followed by a similar service at a Keumkangkyedan. Thus the main building had a small window on the northern side which might be opened up to look out or otherwise go outside like a door. However, the window was probably locked up like a surrounding wall since the main building was entirely repaired after the end of Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권10호
• /
• pp.100-117
• /
• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• 복식
• /
• 제44권
• /
• pp.117-129
• /
• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• 복식
• /
• 제53권3호
• /
• pp.121-135
• /
• 2003

This paper is about the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty, just before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, through painting-Kiyeonghoido. In the Chosun period, dress styles played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The most remarkable signs of social standing are the hair ornaments. Officials in ranks, noksas, and seoris are wearing a same, a yugakpyeongjeongeon and a mugakpyeongjeongeon respectively. The head ornament for musicians in high ranks is a samo, and, for those in low ranks a hood or a heuklip. Accordingly, head ornaments were important articles among apparels, and especially ripja was an article that sensitively reflected the contemporary fashion. Such a trend also influenced the common people's styles of dress. Thus, the style of the heuklip worn by the chamberlain in Kiyeonghoido resembled of yangban's. Actual official uniforms also diverged from the specifications for them. Sangboks were red for both dangsanggwans and danghagwans, but their ranks were marked by the material of their dress rather than by the breast plates. Dress styles change over time as the society members influence and are influenced by each other. Therefore, owing to the social characteristics of a hierarchical society, dress styles are distinctive according to the wearers' social standings and roles, and various dress styles emerge that deviate from regulations. The significance of the present paper is to review the diversity of the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권7호
• /
• pp.98-107
• /
• 2007

This study examines the men's coats in the early $17^{th}$ century through the excavated costumes of Kim, Hwak($1572{\sim}1633$)'s tomb. Kim, Hwak was a literary man with a high government position. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, in the early $17^{th}$ century, there were many changes with the kinds and form of men's coats. From Kim, Hwak's tomb, there excavated 8 kinds of coats; Sim-ui, Dan-ryung, Jik-ryung, Cheol-rik, Do-po, Chang-ui, Joong-chi-mack, So-chang-ui, and they are 27 items. The characteristics of $17^{th}$ century costumes are well seen from these coats. Up to that period, Cheol-rik was worn as ordinary clothes, but from Kim, Hwak's tomb, there are 5 pieces of Do-po, and 15 pieces of Joong-chi-mack. This tells us that these items were widely worn after the $mid-17^{th}$ century.

• 한국한의학연구원논문집
• /
• 제18권3호
• /
• pp.1-20
• /
• 2012

Kim Deok-bang(金德邦)'s "Chimgu-kukbicho(鍼灸極秘抄)"(Secrets on acupuncture and moxibustion) hasn't been known throughout Korea yet, let alone its existence. Kim Deok-bang was the person who was taken to Japan as a prison during the Imjin war(Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592), and he is known to have initiated Japan's noted doctor Nagada Tokuhon(長田德本), who is comparable to Huh Jun in Korea, into the acupunctural method. Nagada Tokuhon healed many patients with the unusual blood-drawing method, which was one of the very unfamiliar scenes in Japan at that time. "Chimgu-kukbicho" shows that the very blood-drawing method was used for not a few medical treatments. This aspect can be said to be an unprecedented point of the acupunctural method in the first half of the Choseon Dynasty period as shown in "Chijong-jinam(治腫指南)" in our country, and from such a context, it is understood that the medical skills were widely distributed in Japan by Kim Deok-bang. This paper is going to lay a foundation for the argument hereafter related to this by including Provision 114 stating Kim, Deok-bang's acupunctural method like this.

• 한국전통조경학회지
• /
• 제38권3호
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2020

본 연구의 목적은 조선 시대 궁궐에서도 학을 길렀는가에 대한 확인과 함께 그 사례를 고찰하는 것이다. 본 연구의 시간적 범위는 조선 시대이며 공간적 범위는 외전, 내전, 궐내각사, 궐외각사 등 궁궐 전체를 대상으로 한다. 본 연구를 위한 문헌 자료는 일부 원문 자료를 발췌·번역하여 고찰하였으며, 이와 함께 한국고전번역원 데이터베이스(http://db.itkc.or.kr)에 탑재되어 있는 고전번역서를 활용하였다. 본 연구의 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 조선 시대 최고 관부인 의정부에서는 전기 때부터 학을 길렀다. 임진왜란 이후 위상 변화와 청사의 훼철로 인해 의정부에서의 양학은 중단된 것으로 보인다. 둘째, 조선 시대에 경연과 언론 기능을 담당하며 왕을 측근에서 보좌한 홍문관에서의 양학은 조선 전기 중종 대부터 임진왜란 이후 정조 대에까지 이어졌다. 셋째, 정조 대에는 왕권 강화를 위해 학문의 중추기관으로 새롭게 설치한 규장각에서도 학을 길렀다. 당시 규장각에는 여러 쌍의 학을 기르기도 했던 것으로 보인다. 넷째, 의정부, 홍문관, 규장각 등 조선의 핵심적 관부에서의 양학 행위는 그 기관의 위상이나 성격 등 정체성을 나타내는 표상으로서의 의미가 있었던 것으로 판단된다. 다섯째, 홍문관 등 궁궐에서 기르는 학은 관례적으로 황해도 배천군 등에서 충당했던 것으로 보인다. 이러한 관례는 영조 대에 이르러 중앙 관서와 지방 관아 간에 마찰을 일으키기도 했으나 이후 정조 연간에도 지속된 것으로 보인다. 본 연구에서는 대부분 국역 자료에 의존하여 연구를 진행했다는 한계가 있다. 추후 자료의 발굴과 번역 성과가 더욱 축적된다면 보다 풍부한 사례를 확인할 있을 것이다. 또 지방의 관아, 사찰 등에서의 양학 사례 등 보다 심화된 후속 연구도 필요하다.

• 인삼문화
• /
• 제5권
• /
• pp.32-51
• /
• 2023

홍삼이 19세기에 청나라로 대량 수출되면서 개성에 대규모로 홍삼 원료삼 재배 단지가 조성되었다. 개성 상인 간 특유의 민간주도형 대부 제도인 시변제(時邊制) 는 인삼 재배에 필요한 막대한 비용을 조달할 수 있게 하였다. 대한제국 황실은 1895년에 포삼규칙(包蔘規則)을 공포하였는데 이것이 홍삼 전매제의 효시이다. 1899년 일본인들에 의한 삼포 침탈이 심해지자 황실은 일본인들에 의한 인삼의 도난을 방지하기 위해 군대가 경비를 하고, 원료삼 수납대금의 50~90% 정도를 수확 전에 미리 지급하는 국가 주도형 배상금 선교제도(賠償金 先交制度)를 운영하였다. 1895년 종자 가격이 상승하자 일부 상인들이 중국과 일본의 저질 종자를 수입하고 판매하게 되었다. 이에 1920년 공포한 홍삼전매령에서는 정부 허가 없이 외국 종자 수입을 금지하게 되었다. 일제강점기 초기인 1906년~1910년의 인삼경작은 폐농 수준이 되어 1910년도 홍삼 원료 수삼 수납량은 불과 2,771근에 불과하였으나 1915~1919년과 1920~1934년까지 각 기간 중 연평균 수삼 수납량은 각각 약 11만 근, 15만 근 수준으로 크게 증가하였다. 이러한 홍삼 원료 수삼 생산량 증가는 1908년부터 실시된 수삼 배상가격 사전 공시, 신규면적 재배 비용 융자, 우수경작인 장려금 지급 등 다양한 삼업 육성정책에 기인한 것이다. 그러나 당시 일제의 궁극적 목표는 한인 삼포주의 육성이 아니라 홍삼 사업의 이익금으로 식민지 경영유지 비용을 마련하려 했던 것이다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제51권4호
• /
• pp.192-207
• /
• 2018

경복궁의 후원에 위치한 향원정과 취향교는 고종 연간의 관련 사료와 조선 후기에 작성된 것으로 추정되는 몇몇 도면에 의지하여 연구되고 있었다. 현재의 취향교는 한국전쟁을 거치며 전소된 것을 종전 후 임시적으로 재건한 것이기 때문에 형태를 비롯하여 재건 위치도 정확한 고증을 거친 것이 아니다. 구한말~일제강점기에 촬영된 사진과 이를 묘사한 그림엽서 따위가 일부 남아있지만 촬영 주체나 시기에 대한 정보가 부재하여 어떤 사진이 취향교의 원모습을 담은 것인지 판정하기 어려운 문제가 있었다. 2017년 취향교 복원에 필요한 기초자료 확보를 위해 발굴조사가 실시되었는데 조사를 통해 취향교의 원위치와 교각 주춧돌의 형태가 확인되었으며 이를 통해 취향교의 변화과정을 유추해 볼 수 있게 되었다. 최초의 취향교는 상판이 약한 아치를 그리는 3렬의 교각열을 가진 형태였으며 시간의 경과에 따라 교각열이 늘어난 평교형태로 변화한 것이 밝혀졌다. 또한 향원지 내 가도(假島)의 성토층에 대한 AMS연대측정을 통해 향원정이 임란 이후에 조성되었음이 판정되어 기존에 제기되던 '조선 전기 취로정 전신설'은 근거가 없음이 확인되었다. 발굴조사 및 사료검토 결과를 토대로 종합적으로 판단한다면 취향교와 향원정의 조성 시기는 조선 후기 건청궁의 건립연대와 평행할 가능성이 높다.