• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권12호
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• pp.1883-1896
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• 2009

이 논문은 조선후기 보자기에 적용된 다양한 장식 특성을 연구한 것이다. 보자기는 물건을 싸거나 음식을 덮는 등 일차적으로는 실생활에 활용하기 위한 실용적 목적으로 제작되었지만, 보자기 제작은 전래된 상징적 문양의 표현을 통한 현세적 기원의 행위이기도 했으며, 또한 조선의 엄격한 유교 윤리 하에서 여성의 창작 욕구가 자유롭게 발현된 생활 속 여흥의 일부이기도 했다. 한국의 보자기에는 조각 잇기, 자수, 회염, 인염, 오려내기 세공 등 다양한 장식 기법이 활용되었다. 조각 잇기 기법이 활용된 조각보에서는 조선 여인들의 절약습관이 돋보이는데 이는 특히 자원의 재활용을 중시하는 오늘날의 가치와도 일맥상통하는 바가 있다. 자수가 놓인 수보에서는 상징적 문양의 표현을 통한 여인들의 소박한 바램이 읽혀진다. 한국 보자기는 회염이나 인염으로 장식되기도 했는데, 이들은 한국 복식 유물에서는 보기 어려운 장식 기법들이다. 농담을 조절한 다양한 색채의 당채 기법이나 단일색의 먹물 채색, 여러 종류의 도안이 새겨진 목판을 이용한 인염 기법 등이 이용되었다. 음식물이 묻지 않게 하기 위해 때로는 기름 종이로 보자기를 만들기도 했는데, 이러한 식지보에는 오려내기 세공이 장식 기법으로 활용되었다. 오려내기 기법의 원리는 스텐실 염색과 비슷하여 이를 또한 섬유제품 디자인에 활용할 수도 있다.

• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.902-915
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• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.227-237
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environmentalism expressed in contemporary fashion. i.e. 'eco-look'. They can be categorized into naturalism symbolism primitiveness and concern about recycling. First naturalistic tendency can be found in through the method of some contemporary eco-looks which are using natural colors harmonisation of the colors in similarity and in controst and expressing in a realistic manner some natural entities or use some ornaments representing them. Such trends easily let people to feel the clothes unified with the nature and human beings. Secondly some contemporary eco-looks express environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in contemporary eco-looks, In can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature, Finally recycled materials are commonly used in eco-look. Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look: fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings Secondly some contemporary eco-looks ex-press environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature. Finally recycled materials are commonly used In eco-look Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look ; fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings has become a very efficient and significant tool to express the idea of ecology.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제19권8호
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• pp.25-31
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• 2018

본 연구에서는 카울 모듈의 성형 시 최적 설계 공정을 유한요소해석을 통해 도출하는 방안을 제시하였다. 소재 인장시험 및 성형성 평가와 같은 기계적 물성 평가를 통해 성형 해석의 주름 및 크랙 발생을 사전에 파악하고 이를 개선하기 위한 공정 설계 변경을 통해 최적 설계 방안을 도출하였다. 또한 제진성 향상이 필요한 카울 로워 패널에 패치워크를 적용을 통해 카울 모듈의 강성 증대 및 제진 특성 향상을 고유진동수 측정 시험과 해석을 통해 확인하였다. 해석 결과, 실러 패치워크 기술 적용에 따른 1차 고유진동수가 향상됨을 알 수 있었고, 이는 강성 및 제진특성 증대와 관련있다고 볼 수 있다. 실러 패치워크 적용 시 공정수 감소를 위해 성형 전 로워 패널 블랭크에 패치워크 블랭크를 점용접으로 접합시켜 성형하므로, 성형 후 패치워크 패널의 위치가 점용접 조건에 따라 달라진다. 이를 위해 점용접 위치에 따른 성형 해석을 실시하여 결과를 바탕으로 최적 공정 설계를 도출하였다. 스탬핑 공법을 이용한 타부품의 적용을 위해 성형 해석 기법을 구축하여 다양한 제품 설계에 도움이 될 것으로 판단된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2004

The objectives of this study were to investigate the perceptions of Korean female university students for clothing pattern tendency and structural element of clothing pattern image dimension and to find how individual personality type influence the preferred clothing pattern characteristics. For this study, a questionnaire was designed and sent to 600 female university students of Daejeon, Seoul and metropolitan area. The tool used in this study was MBTI(The Myers-Briggs Type Indicator) Form G Korean version and for the analysis of data SPSS 10.0 package were used. 10 representative patterns for this study were floral, dot, stripe, check, animal, abstract & artistic, geometric, vegetable & leaf, paisely, patchwork pattern. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, arithmetic mean, One-Way ANOVA, x²-test. The major findings were as follows: Clothing pattern image dimension perceived by Korean female university students for 10 representative patterns were basic form, deluxe, specialty, and cultural dimension. Among them, basic form and deluxe dimension were major dimensions. In basic form dimension, dot pattern score was high indicating female students perceive it as light, comfortable, clean, cool and simple pattern image. In deluxe dimension, floral pattern scored high and in specialty dimension, abstract and artistic pattern scored high among other pattern image. In cultural dimension, geometric pattern and check pattern scored high. Based on other detailed analysis results, It is concluded that the personality type greatly influence clothing pattern evaluation. For example, in case of color combination of patchwork pattern, there was a difference in color preference depend on a personality type such as sensing(S) or intuition(N). Therefore, sensing personality type preferred adjacent color combination than contrast color combination. Detailed marketing strategy is necessary in planning textile design of merchandise plan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to develop ICT utilization learning materials for a chapter titled 'Environment Friendly Clothing and Reform of Clothing' in technology and home economics textbooks for Year 2 students in middle school. The research methods were selected from ten types of junior high school technology textbooks, which were revised in 2009, and mainly focused on items such as jeans, shirts, shirts, cardigans, and skirts, Using selected textiles and basic design t-shirts, five works were made using structural and decorative details. The results of this study are as follows. First, textile products shown in the chapter 'Environment Friendly Clothing and Reform of Clothing' are most commonly worn and found in daily life. With regard to a reuse method, structural changes to clothing are proposed. For example, cases relating to the changing of a neckline or the use of a shirt or a sleeve are presented. There are some decoration methods adapted in reuse; using ornaments, such as spangles and emblems, patchwork, shirring and the constucting of collages. Second, following the plan, 5 items are designed with T-shirts, shirts, cardigans and skirts. For the T-shirt design, other fabrics including organza and neoplan are used from design point of view, in addition to reused textile products. Detailed structural changes of necklines, sleeves and collars and detailed and the ornamentation method including shirring, smoking, patchwork and collages are used. Third, this study proposes 6 categories (profile, design planning, diagram, reused textile product, production method and order and pictures of T-shirts developed) under the title of 'T-shirt Made Out of Disposed Clothing', selecting a blog as active teaching and learning material as a part of the ICT utilization in educational settings.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.39-49
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• 1998

When considering clothing of the North American Indians, it is important to understand historical background of the North American Indians. With the coming of he Europeans, the North American Indians adopted new materials of clothing and ornamentation and added European elements to their own dresses. New materials appeared in textiles, beadswork, and metalwork. The introduction of the "true" loom and steel needle by the Spanish led in the New World to the development of a weaving culture. Cotton cloth, in calico prints, gingham, or plain were made into dresses, and colorful applique, patchwork designs adapted from the white women. Cloth made an immediate impact, replacing skin that is so time-consuming in preparation. Glass beads, pony beads, seed beads and ribbons were used to create adornment Indian clothing. Brass, tin and silver were used among Indian metalworkers to make some ring, necklace, bracelet, etc.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.47-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meaning of retro-fashion, to research the formative feature characteristic and aesthetic values. Retro-fashion is one of the expression of spatiotemporal-eclecticism, The formative of modern Retro-fashion are as follows: First, Retro-fashion based on spatiotemporal-eclecticism have been come from 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s style of time, and the asia, africa, middle east, latin America in region. Second, the design inspiration and technique is used more primitive crafts and decoration like handcrafted material, handmade ornaments as dyeing and embroidery of bohemian, jacqwuard pattern, oriental beads, applique, new hippie touch, patchwork, smocking, primitive button, woods, ethnic motives. Third, modern Retro-fashion is reflection of human feelings as nostalgia from the past, it supplies the sense of fashion creativity and new ideas.