Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.45
no.3
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pp.477-494
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2021
This study examined four subjects with close to average body-size values in four stages based on the average BMI value of middle-aged women aged 45 to 59 years. The first experimental pants was developed with two kinds of educational materials pants pattern. After using a clothing-suitability evaluation to identify problems, a pants pattern suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women was developed by modifying and supplementing the initial design. The fit assessment revealed that pattern A had a problem with wrinkles in the hip and thigh areas due to the long crotch length, and pattern B had a short bottom length, which caused the bottom to curl in toward the groin or for the bottom to stick at the hips. The second experimental pants was developed to address these issues and overall satisfaction with the dimensions was higher than for the first educational pattern. The proper front and rear length extensions satisfied movement functionality and appearance requirements, and increasing the gradient of the back centerline-rather than expanding the width of the back crotch-improved the functionality.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.48
no.1
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pp.94-107
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2024
This study developed compression pants with excellent wearability and signal quality by approaching the design of wireless sEMG monitoring pants from the perspective of technical design, including the evaluation of wearability and the stable wireless transmission of signals through electrode and circuit design, and using e-textiles. An electrode, sewn with silver thread and a circuit stitched in a zigzag pattern using stainless steel wire, were applied. Additionally, polyurethane sealing tape was used to enhance adherence to the skin and reduce electrical resistance. Conductive snaps completed the design, allowing attachment and detachment to the bio-signal acquisition mainboard. Through the subjects' evaluation, it was determined that the final pants were applied with a pattern reduction rate of 25% to provide superior comfort according to different body parts while also minimizing skin irritation around the thigh circuit. The final pants for wireless sEMG monitoring, which demonstrated stable transmission of wireless measurements, was positively evaluated in terms of cognitive acceptability. This study is significant in that it achieved an optimal design by considering both technical aspects and the electrical characteristics of bio-signal monitoring garments, as well as the wearer's perception when designing smart wear.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.10
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pp.1541-1551
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2009
This study gives guidelines to pattern designing by supplying various images of the transformed shape of jeans with the location of the waistline and the pants silhouette. For this study, 9 kinds of sample cloths (100% cotton denim) were designed considering the laying measurement of the jeans with the location of the waistline and the pants silhouette. The images of each sample were evaluated after the measurement of the completed samples. Clothing and textiles specialists used a semantic differential scale as the evaluation method of the images. For the statistical analysis of the data, one way Anova and Duncan test were adopted using the SPSS 12.0 program. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The visual image by the location of waistline and the change of the pants silhouette is composed of 3 factors (attraction, fashion and comfort factors) of which the attraction factor is the most important factor. 2. The visual image is positive when the location of the waistline is in the low waist position. It is attractive, fashionable, and comfortable. The visual image is negative when the location of the waistline is in the position of the natural waist. 3. The visual image is attractive when the pants silhouette is a boot-cut and fashionable when the pants silhouette are skinny. The straight-cut is comfortable but the visual image is negative. 4. There is no correlation between visual image by the location of the waistline and the change of the pants silhouette.
This study shows the result of the survey conducted for male adults who had to use wheelchairs. The objectives of this study are to develop and improve the clothes for the disabled people and to make those garments put into practice. For this purpose, the survey was conducted at first so as to understand the situation of the disabled peoples wearing clothes and the garment demands. This survey is to suggest the suited form of the pants they want. The result of the study is as follows. 1) The average age of the subjects was 38.4 years old. They have used wheelchairs for 12 years on the average. Most subjects two limbs were paralyzed because of the acquired spinal paralysis. 60 percent of them were wearing the urine bags all the time. The average size of the pants they purchased was 39 inches, which means that their waist and abdominal circumstance were very big. 2) Regarding the situation of wearing habits, although the subjects usually purchased ready-to-wear, most of them are very dissatisfied with them. Especially, they considered the size as their main dissatisfaction. The main concern for buying garments was how comfortable and mobile they are while wearing them. They also needed outdoor garments. Lastly, they looked forward to the shop specialized in the garments for disabled people. 3) The functional pants for adult men using wheelchairs had the same zipper as that of general pants. The waist belt was made of rubber to reduce the pressure on waist and to cover 2 inches (5 cm) of waist circumference. Also it should be made to secure each button within the belt in accordance with size. Finally, it was designed as formal wrinkled pants that had pockets within the reach of hands when the disabled used wheelchairs.
This study aimed to develop basic pants patterns reflecting somatotype characteristics of the women in their 20s. In order to develop basic pants patterns for women in their 20s, wearing tests were conducted. With the results of wearing tests, drafting methods were applied by using regression equation for the parts that were found to improper. For the parts where regression equation was not applicable, the results of wearing tests were applied. The results and the conclusion of development of basic pants patterns for women in their 20s were as follows. The waist height was applied for the regression equations of waist to hip length, crotch length, and knee length, and the hip circumference was applied for the regression equations of front leg opening. Also, back leg opening, front knee width and back knee width were calculated based on the front leg opening. For the waistline the ease of 2cm was added, and for the hipline the ease of 4cm was added. H/16 - 1cm was applied for the drafting of front crotch width, and H/8 was applied for the drafting of back crotch width. Pants patterns for women in their 20s on the methods mentioned above were tested for the $2^{nd}$ research wearing tests, and they received good ratings on the items and demonstrated that the developed pants patterns had excellent body fit.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.16
no.1
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pp.15-25
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2014
The purpose of this study is to recognize the differences of visual evaluation by variations in width of hem line and waistline position of the bell buttom pants. The stimuli are 9 samples: One control group, 3 variations of the width of hem line and 3 variations of the waistline position. The data has been obtained from 56 fashion students. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows: The visual evaluation by the width of hem line and waistline position of bell buttom pants are composed of 5 factors : comfort, personality, physical characteristics, stiffness and modern. Among these factors, the comfort is evaluated to be the most important factor. As a visual evaluation result of changes in the width of hern line, 62cm in width (the narrowest width) was highly evaluated in comfort and stiffness factors, 78cm in width (the widest width) was highly evaluated in personality and physical characteristics factors. For the result of changes in the waistline position, high-waisted bell buttom pants were was highly evaluated in personality and stiffness factors, low-waisted bell buttom pants were was highly evaluated in comfort, physical characteristics and modern factors. The width of hem line and waistline position of the bell buttom pants interacted to the comfort factor. The width of hem line had more influence on visual evaluation in personality factors while physical characteristics, stiffness and modern factors were affected by the waistline position.
The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.
The purpose of this study was to recognize of the sizing system and analyze the fitting on formal pants of the on-line shopping mall for plus-sized women. To pursue this purpose, the investigation of the sizing system was focused on 22 online companies. The formal pants of 7 companies was selected among them. And actual sizes were compared with the guidance sizes of goods. For the assessment about the fitting on formal pants of 7 online companies, these came to make on to 16 obese women with 'A' body shaped and 'O' body shaped. A data analysis used the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, this study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. 1. All of 22 companies were using the symbol such as 88, 99, 100 and 110 in the present condition of sizing system. The information about products size was presenting the products size not to be the body size. the guidance sizes of products were different from actual sizes of 7 companies to be assorted. Therefore, the guidance sizes of goods could not accomplish the facility. 2. According to the fitting-tests by the sensory assessment, the obese women with 'A' body shaped, did the dissatisfaction at the items of the hip circumference, abdominal region, crotch deep and pants length. The obese women with 'O' body shaped, did the dissatisfaction at the the items of crotch deep and pants length.
This study examines the wearing conditions of tight-fit pants of men in their 30's in order to develop patterns for tight-fit pants. Tight-fits are loved by the young generation. This fashion has established a notable trend and demand in the casual clothing market as well as in the men's wear market. The study conducted a survey targeting Korean males in their thirties, and a total of 76 samples were used for the final analysis. The study survey showed that a growing number of men wear tight-fit pants in their daily life and prefer brands that feel more casual when it comes to expressing themselves with fashion. The men indicated a desire to look slim; however, they also wanted their clothes to be wearable and not interrupted them while moving. Sales of men's wear targeting the thirties age group have increased every year; consequently, this will study suggests that any relevant fields should first have a good understanding on men in the thirties and their needs before designing any clothes. Discussions that this study developed will be applied as a basic reference to design patterns for functionally-efficient tight-fit pants. Those pants will correspond to the physical characteristics of the thirties who transition with changes in every body part that would not occur when they are in their twenties while not disrupting.
This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.
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