• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are to review the Chinese traditional patterns and to apply one of them, the Peony Blossom pattern into modern textile designs for fashion For this purpose, first, the categories and symbolic meanings of the patterns existing in the Chinese traditional clothing from literature were reviewed. Second, the Peony Blossom patterns of Chinese traditional patterns from literature were reviewed and selected one of them, Third, authors applied the Peony Blossom pattern to creative textile design which would fit to appetite of people lived in modern society. The results were as follows: The patterns of Chinese traditional clothing could be classified as animal pattern, plant pattern, nature pattern, character pattern, lucky token pattern, geometric pattern and so on. All these patterns contained individual symbolic meaning, which varied according the different wearers. Moreover, it endows a peony blossom pattern of Chinese traditional patterns with modern style and purposes the textile design. The theme of the design is "Luxuriant Outing" with the concept of "Dream in Fantasy". The design target is the female born in the 1980's, that is, the target population between 20 and 30 years old. In addition, it is designed for the romantic one-piece. This paper perceives the national spirit revealed in the Chinese traditional patterns and designs with the combination of traditional culture and modernized technique of expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.65-81
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• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2020

Six ornamental metal quiver fittings were excavated from stone chamber No.1 of the ancient tombs of Jeongchon, Bokam-ri, Naju. The ornamental quiver fittings are metal, but the body of the quiver was made of organic material, so that it corroded and disappeared in the burial environment. The ornamental metal quiver fittings were made in pairs, and decorated one quiver according to the location they were found in and their forms. The ornamental metal quiver fitting can be divided into two types: A band style ornament (帶輪狀金具) which decorates the arrow pouch, and a board style ornament (板狀金具) which decorates the board connecting the waist belt. Two ornamental metal quiver fittings excavated from wooden coffin 2 of stone chamber No.1, were made in the band style, while the ornamental metal quiver fittings from southeast of stone chamber No.1 were identified as two boardstyle ornaments and two band-style ornaments for what was presumed to be belt loops. Material analysis of the ornamental metal quiver fittings shows that they are made of a gilt bronze plate attached to an iron plate, and the surface is marked with a speck of chisel to make lines and patterns. Chemical composition analysis (XRF) established that 24~40wt% Au and 50~93wt% Cu were detected on the gold surface, and it was confirmed that bronze corrosion had taken place on the gilt surface. SEM-EDS analysis of the gold plating layer identified a working line for glossing, and 7~9wt% Hg and an amalgam of gilt layers was detected, confirming the amalgam gilding. CT and FT-IR analysis established that the band style was double-layered with silk fabric under the iron plate, and there was also a lacquer piece underneath. The band-style ornaments have two layers of silk under the iron plate, along with lacquer pieces. Adding the fabric to the arrow pouch increases adhesion and decorative value. It is assumed that the lacquer pieces indicate that the surface of the lacquered arrow pouch had fallen together with the ornaments. On the other hand, the board-style ornaments have a thick layer of organic matter under the iron plate, but this is difficult to identify and appears to be a remnant of the quiver board. The characteristics of these ornamental metal quiver fittings were similar in Baekje, Silla, and Gaya cultures from the late 4th to the late 5th centuries, and enable us to identify the art of ancient gold craftwork at that time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the transitional aspects of the power shoulders with a comparative analysis of the patterns observed from the late 20th century to the present. The method of study was through review of papers as well as phenomenological approaches. Books, domestic and international journals, and dissertations were studied as part of the paper review. Phenomenological study was performed by analyzing the pictures from late 20th to present; and categorized by 10 year time span i. e., 1980-1990, and 2002-2012. Hundred representative fashion photos were selected, respectively. As a result, the power shoulder found in late 20 centuries was largely limited to horizontal and diagonal shape, addressed mainly to the jackets; while they were straight, and wide shouldered, with emphasis on masculine style. On the other hand, in early 21 century, the power shoulder was applied in various forms of straight, diagonal, circular and ornamental with objects, not only to the jackets, but also to feminine styles such as one-piece dress, vest, and blouse. This finding may be attributed to the fact that the modern people desire newer trends and women tend to show off their ability in transcending those of men. The findings of analysis of the transitional aspects of power shoulder in this thesis might contribute as basic resources for anticipating the trends that might be revived in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.49-69
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to develop the competitive swimming suit design with Korean traditional images. which excels in dimension of functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism. To accomplish this study, first. a theoretical examination about Korean image was added, on the basis of the practical research about professional swimmers' preferences as well as the theoretical research about the history of swimming suits and the qualifications of competitive swimming suits in the prior study. Next, practical designing was performed to achieve the creative designs according to Lamb & Kallal's design process. and the superiority of the newly designed swimming suits was evaluated by using Grant's alpha-beta model. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First. in the problem apprehension stage. the need for swimming suit designs with Korean traditional images for professional swimmers was acknowledged, and three major criteria. which are functionality, aesthetics. and symbolism has been verified. Second. in the preliminary brainstorming stage, considerable amounts of data for the design concept considering the criteria above have been gathered. The athletic one-piece for women and the brief for men in style and nylon/lycra in fabric were used in the aspect of functionality. And the S Korean traditional colors in color and Tae-guk motive and others in pattern were selected to apply Korean traditional images in the aspects of aesthetics and symbolism. Finally, the 13 series of creative designs with 4 themes( l17pieces in total) have been suggested. Third, in the design improvement stage. after the preference to each design was surveyed, reformation of the designs was arranged on the basis of the results. Fourth, in the prototyping stage. the 17 actual prototypes, including 13 pieces for women and 4 pieces for men were produced. Fifth. in the evaluation stage. the evaluation procedure using Grant's alpha-beta model was performed. As a result, the newly designed swimming suits were rated above other existing ones in all three aspects of functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.14-23
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the present condition of cold protective clothing for mailman, to improve its design in movement, fitness, and other functions, and supply basic data for its performance evaluation. The results are as follows : The 46.60% of those questioned did not satisfy current clod protective clothing fer mailman. Especially, they considered dissatisfactory in properties such as waterproof, comfort, activity, and sweat absorption. The newly developed cold protective clothing is two-piece style composed of jacket and pants. Both jacket and pants are composed of inner and outer clothing individually. In both jacket and pants, their outer clothing's material was waterproof, windproof, and breathable shell fabric on which PTFE film laminated and their inner clothing's material was 100% polyester Polar polis to have better insulation property. The jacket has attachable cap which can be used as rain gear and set-in sleeve with stand collar. It also had big outside patch pockets and side seam pockets to ensure enough storage space. The pants have knee pads to give free movement to knees and slant side pockets. Inner clothing of both jacket and pants can be worn during working inside without out clothing. Insulation of the newly developed cold protective clothing was not better than current one except right hand, left hand and left foo. It is considered that is because thickness of material is the most important factor to influence insulation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.77-95
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• 2005

This study was for applying web based street fashion design analysis system(web-SFAS), which was designed in preceding research and realized, to a practical use. Web-SFAS was developed to analyze data fast, accurately, conveniently, and to provide them to related fields by using Information Technology (IT) in fashion design industry. By inputting, sorting and analyzing actual image data into this system, it purposes to check if it needs to be corrected and to verify its operation and application. This study was collected in 2004 s/s 177 points image data and survey results input to the system This system analyzed the results as follow ; First, in all four areas of S/S, many people wear soft materials and plain T-shirts on top and tough material and plain jeans on the bottom. Second, In the case of dresses, in many areas people wear tough fabric plain A-line, one-piece dresses but in Hapsung-dong, many people wear geometrical figures. Third, fashion image, most people wear a sportive casual style with semi casual in a close second. Therefore, web-SFAS can be useful system analyzing for the trendy apparel type, design, material, color, image and variable in demography through street fashion image data.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.14
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• pp.82-89
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• 1998

During the boom of museum building in the 1970s-80s two museum wee erected in Germany. They are James Stirling's Neue Stattsgalerie Stuttgart and hans Hollein's Stadtisches Museum Abteiberg Monchengladbach, These two museums share the folowing point of similarity : Stirling's Neue Stattsgalerie Stuttgart and Hollein's Staditisches Museum Abetiberg Monchenbladbach both manifest the conditions of the times in light of their respective cities' local characters and historical contexts without being bound to traditional formality. Stirling and Hollein attempted to grasp the meaning of the 기nuseum as a city in miniature." Taking into account the t two museums’s territorial characteristics of being situated on a slope, both Stirling and Hollein made the walker to pass t through their building complex and introduced the concept of a public square within them. As a result, the museums are not j just two large buildings but are architecture composed of a collage of various structures. S Stirling’s architecture employs the method of attaching additional elements on top of basic constituents, which is suggestive '||'&'||'#61551; of the historical fragment from Shinkel's Altes Museum. On the other hand, Hollein applies a collage-style method as if he w were doing urban planning, maintaining the distinctiveness of each of the various forms and materials of buildings. T The object style buildings of the two museums actively demonstrate the contrast of double meaning to represent the a ambiguous and multifarious characteristics of the modern times. Stirling explores the theme of opposition and coexistence in h his Neue Stattsgalerie Stuttgart by placing a series of opposing concepts, such as the past and present and histor${\gamma}$ and t technology, in one space. Thereby, the contradiction and its appeal are manifested. Hollein made use of the visual illusion and c contradiction in alluding to the irony of the modern reality induced by nature and culture and history and technology. F For the above reasons and methods, James Stirling ’ s Neue Stattsgalerie Stuttgart allowed the penetration of art into daily l life and became the general public’s favored museum for its free and unrestrained environment. Likewise, Hans Hollein’s S Stadtisches Museum Abteiberg Moncbengladbach contribute to the development of museum function as it an expression of art i in the form of a complex piece of scupture on its own.ts own.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.96
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• pp.239-260
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• 2019

This paper examines the circulation and dissemination of painting during and after the nineteenth century through a case study on the One Hundred Fans paintings produced as decorative folding screens at the time. One Hundred Fans paintings refer to depictions of layers of fans in various shapes on which pictures of diverse themes are drawn. Fans and paintings on fans were depicted on paintings before the nineteenth century. However, it was in the nineteenth century that they began to be applied as subject matter for decorative paintings. Reflecting the trend of enjoying extravagant hobbies, fans and paintings on fans were mainly produced as folding screens. The folding screen of One Hundred Fans from the collection of the Museum am Rothenbaum Kulturen und Künste der Welt (hereafter Rothenbaum Museum) in Germany was first introduced to Korean in the exhibition The City in Art, Art in the City held at the National Museum of Korea in 2016. Each panel in this six-panel folding screen features more than five different fans painted with diverse topics. This folding screen is of particular significance since the National Museum of Korea holds the original drawings. In the nineteenth century, calligraphy and painting that had formerly been enjoyed by Joseon royal family members and the nobility in private spaces began to spread among common people and was distributed through markets. In accordance with the trend of adorning households, colorful decorative paintings were preferred, leading to the popularization of the production of One Hundred Fans folding screens with pictures in different shapes and themes. A majority of the Korean collection in the Rothenbaum Museum belonged to Heinrich Constantin Eduard Meyer(1841~1926), a German businessman who served as the Joseon consul general in Germany. From the late 1890s until 1905, Meyer traveled back and forth between Joseon and Germany and collected a wide range of Korean artifacts. After returning to Germany, he sequentially donated his collections, including One Hundred Fans, to the Rothenbaum Museum. Folding screens like One Hundred Fans with their fresh and decorative beauty may have attracted the attention of foreigners living in Joseon. The One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum is an intriguing work in that during its treatment, a piece of paper with the inscription of the place name "Donghyeon" was found pasted upside down on the back of the second panel. Donghyeon was situated in between Euljiro 1-ga and Euljiro 2-ga in present-day Seoul. During the Joseon Dynasty, a domestic handicraft industry boomed in the area based on licensed shops and government offices, including the Dohwaseo (Royal Bureau of Painting), Hyeminseo (Royal Bureau of Public Dispensary), and Jangagwon (Royal Bureau of Music). In fact, in the early 1900s, shops selling calligraphy and painting existed in Donghyeon. Thus, it is very likely that the shops where Meyer purchased his collection of calligraphy and painting were located in Donghyeon. The six-panel folding screen One Hundred Fans in the collection of the Rothenbaum Museum is thought to have acquired its present form during a process of restoring Korean artifacts works in the 1980s. The original drawings of One Hundred Fans currently housed in the National Museum of Korea was acquired by the National Folk Museum of Korea between 1945 and 1950. Among the seven drawings of the painting, six indicate the order of their panels in the margins, which relates that the painting was originally an eight-panel folding screen. Each drawing shows more than five different fans. The details of these fans, including small decorations and patterns on the ribs, are realistically depicted. The names of the colors to be applied, including 'red ocher', 'red', 'ink', and 'blue', are written on most of the fans, while some are left empty or 'oil' is indicated on them. Ten fans have sketches of flowers, plants, and insects or historical figures. A comparison between these drawings and the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum has revealed that their size and proportion are identical. This shows that the Rothenbaum Museum painting follows the directions set forth in the original drawings. The fans on the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum are painted with images on diverse themes, including landscapes, narrative figures, birds and flowers, birds and animals, plants and insects, and fish and crabs. In particular, flowers and butterflies and fish and crabs were popular themes favored by nineteenth century Joseon painters. It is noteworthy that the folding screen One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum includes several scenes recalling the typical painting style of Kim Hong-do, unlike other folding screens of One Hundred Fans or Various Paintings and Calligraphy. As a case in point, the theme of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" is depicted in the Rothenbaum folding screen even though it is not commonly included in folding screens of One Hundred Fans or One Hundred Paintings due to spatial limitations. The scene of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" in the Rothenbaum folding screen bears a resemblance to Kim Hong-do's folding screen of Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden at the National Museum of Korea in terms of its composition and style. Moreover, a few scenes on the Rothenbaum folding screen are similar to examples in the Painting Album of Byeongjin Year produced by Kim Hong-do in 1796. The painter who drew the fan paintings on the Rothenbaum folding screen is presumed to have been influenced by Kim Hong-do since the fan paintings of a landscape similar to Sainsam Rock, an Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden, and a Pair of Pheasants are all reminiscent of Kim's style. These paintings in the style of Kim Hong-do are reproduced on the fans left empty in the original drawings. The figure who produced both the original drawings and fan paintings appears to have been a professional painter influenced by Kim Hong-do. He might have appreciated Kim's Painting Album of Byeongjin Year or created duplicates of Painting Album of Byeongjin Year for circulation in the art market. We have so far identified about ten folding screens remaining with the One Hundred Fans. The composition of these folding screens are similar each other except for a slight difference in the number and proportion of the fans or reversed left and right sides of the fans. Such uniform composition can be also found in the paintings of scholar's accoutrements in the nineteenth century. This suggests that the increasing demand for calligraphy and painting in the nineteenth century led to the application of manuals for the mass production of decorative paintings. As the demand for colorful decorative folding screens with intricate designs increased from the nineteenth century, original drawings began to be used as models for producing various paintings. These were fully utilized when making large-scale folding screens with images such as Guo Ziyi's Enjoyment-of-Life Banquet, Banquet of the Queen Mother of the West, One Hundred Children, and the Sun, Cranes and Heavenly Peaches, all of which entailed complicated patterns. In fact, several designs repeatedly emerge in the extant folding screens, suggesting the use of original drawings as models. A tendency toward using original drawings as models for producing folding screens in large quantities in accordance with market demand is reflected in the production of the folding screens of One Hundred Fans filled with fans in different shapes and fan paintings on diverse themes. In the case of the folding screens of One Hundred Paintings, bordering frames are drawn first and then various paintings are executed inside the frames. In folding screens of One Hundred Fans, however, fans in diverse forms were drawn first. Accordingly, it must have been difficult to produce them in bulk. Existing examples are relatively fewer than other folding screens. As discussed above, the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum and its original drawings at the National Museum of Korea aptly demonstrate the late Joseon painting trend of embracing and employing new painting styles. Further in-depth research into the Rothenbaum painting is required in that it is a rare example exhibiting the influence of Kim Hong-do compared to other paintings on the theme of One Hundred Fans whose composition and painting style are more similar to those found in the work of Bak Gi-jun.