• Title/Summary/Keyword: Nonlinear shallow water equation

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Effect of Nonlinear Terms on the Generation of $M_2$ Tide Residual Elevation and $M_4$ Tide in the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea (황해ㆍ동중국해의 $M_2$ 조석 잔차위 및 $M_4$ 조석 생성에 대한 비선형항의 영향)

  • 이종찬;정경태;최병호
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.137-145
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    • 1996
  • Effects of nonlinear terms on the generation of M$_2$ tide residual elevation and M$_4$ tide in the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea are investigated using a depth-integrated two-dimensional nonlinear M$_2$tidal model. The model domain (117$^{\circ}$E-130$^{\circ}$E, 24$^{\circ}$N-41$^{\circ}$N) covers the whole region of the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea with grid resolution of 1/6$^{\circ}$ in longitude and 1/8$^{\circ}$in latitude. A radiational boundary condition is used along the open boundaries. Calculations show that advection terms yield negative residual elevation, while shallow-water terms in continuity equation yield positive residual elevation. The contribution of both advection terms and shallow-water terms to tile generation of the M$_4$ constituent is more than 90 percents, but that of quadratic bottom friction terms to the M$_4$ constituent is comparatively small.

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Investigation on the Variation of Ocean Waves passing through Shallow Waters (낮은 수심을 통과하는 해양파의 변화에 대한 연구)

  • Seok, Woochan;Won, Younsang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.28 no.1
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    • pp.161-167
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    • 2022
  • Ocean waves passing through the underwater bar at a shallow depth experience a shoaling effect caused by decreasing water depth, a nonlinear interaction therein owing to steepening wave slope, and a wave dispersion effect as the water depth increases again. Because this problem includes many complicated phenomena, it is used as a good example of validating a theoretical development or a CFD method for ocean wave applications. Validation is performed mainly for regular waves by comparing the wave elevation patterns in the time domain with the experimental results. In this study, the spectral evolution of wave spectrum is investigated in the frequency domain when a CFD method such as OpenFOAM is applied for this problem. In particular, the effects of initial phase conditions as well as the nonlinear interaction among harmonic waves are studied.

Applicability of the Korteweg-de Vries Equation for Description of the Statistics of Freak Waves (최극해파통계분석을 위한 Korteweg-de Vries식의 적용성 검토)

  • Anna Kokorina;Efim Pelinovsky
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.308-318
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    • 2002
  • The requirements to the numerical model of wind-generated waves in shallow water are discussed in the framework of the Korteweg-de Vries equation. The weakness of nonlinearity and dispersion required for the Korteweg-de Vries equation applicability is considered for fully developed sea, non-stationary wind waves and swell, including some experimental data. We note for sufficient evaluation of the freak wave statistics it is necessary to consider more than about 10,000 waves in the wave record, and this leads to the limitation of the numerical domain and number of realizations. The numerical modelling of irregular water waves is made to demonstrate the possibility of effective evaluation of the statistical properties of freak waves with heights equal to 2-2.3 significant wave height.

Numerical Analysis of Nonlinear Effect of Wave on Refraction and Diffraction (파의 굴절 및 회절에 미치는 비선형 효과에 대한 수치해석)

  • 이정규;이종인
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.51-57
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    • 1990
  • Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

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Finite Element Numerical Analysis on Tidal Characteristic Changes due to Seadike Construction

  • Kwun, Soon-Kuk;Na, Jeong-Woo;Chang, Hyun-Jin
    • Magazine of the Korean Society of Agricultural Engineers
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    • v.39 no.2
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    • pp.19-25
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    • 1997
  • Abstract [] The prediction of changes in the tidal regime due to the sea dike closure in the Saemankum area was performed using the nonlinear finite element model, TIDE. Based upon an overall comparison of calibrated model results with available field data, the TIDE model behaves well and is good representation of the hydrodynamic of the Saemankum tidal project area. It is shown that the TIDE model does an excellent job of computing the changes of tidal characteristics resulting in sea dike closure in an estuary area.

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An Implicit Numerical Method for Two-Dimensional Tidal Computation (음해법에 의한 2차원 조류유동 계산법)

  • Sun-Young Kim;Mu-Seok Song
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.35 no.1
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 1998
  • A two-dimensional numerical model for tidal currents based on the depth averaged equation is developed. The mode1 employs a rectangular grid system for its simplicity in the application of complicate coastal shore lines. To raise computing efficiency, implicit approximate factorization scheme is implemented in solving governing equations. An upwind-differencing is used to discretize convective terms, which provides a numerical dissipation automatically and suppresses any oscillations caused by nonlinear instabilities. Some numerical tests are made against the analytic solutions of a linearized shallow water equation to validate the developed numerical scheme, and comparisons of the model prediction with the analytic solution are satisfactory. As a real application, the tidal currents are computed on the Inchon area where the tidal currents are important for the design of new canal which is under construction.

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Numerical Prediction of Ship Induced Wave and its Propagation Using Nonlinear Dispersive Wave Model (비선형분산파랑모형을 이용한 항주파의 발생과 전파에 관한 수치예측모형 개발)

  • Shin, Seung-Ho;Jeong, Dae-Deug
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.527-537
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    • 2003
  • The characteristics of ship induced waves caused by navigation become widely different from both ship's speed and water depth condition. The ship induced waves specially generated in coastwise routes frequently give rise to call unforeseen danger for swimmers and small boats as well as shoreline erosion or sea wall destruction in coastal zones. The main concern of ship induced wave study until now is either how to reduce ship resistance or how to manoeuvre the ship safely under a constant water depth in the view point of shipbuilding engineers. Moreover, due to the trends for appearance of the high speed ships at the shallow coastal water, we are confronted with the danger of damages from those ship induced waves. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the development of ship induced waves and the influence of their deformation effects according to its propagation ray. In present study, in order to predict the development of the ship induced waves and their propagation under the conditions of complicate and variable shallow water depth with varying ship's speed, we constructed a computer model using Boussinesq equation with a fixed coordinate system and verified the model results by comparison with experimental results. Additionally, the model was applied under the variable water depth based on actual passage and we then confirmed the importance of the variable water depth consideration.

Development and Application of Two-Dimensional Numerical Tank using Desingularized Indirect Boundary Integral Equation Method (비특이화 간접경계적분방정식방법을 이용한 2차원 수치수조 개발 및 적용)

  • Oh, Seunghoon;Cho, Seok-kyu;Jung, Dongho;Sung, Hong Gun
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.447-457
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    • 2018
  • In this study, a two-dimensional fully nonlinear transient wave numerical tank was developed using a desingularized indirect boundary integral equation method. The desingularized indirect boundary integral equation method is simpler and faster than the conventional boundary element method because special treatment is not required to compute the boundary integral. Numerical simulations were carried out in the time domain using the fourth order Runge-Kutta method. A mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian approach was adapted to reconstruct the free surface at each time step. A numerical damping zone was used to minimize the reflective wave in the downstream region. The interpolating method of a Gaussian radial basis function-type artificial neural network was used to calculate the gradient of the free surface elevation without element connectivity. The desingularized indirect boundary integral equation using an isolated point source and radial basis function has no need for information about the element connectivity and is a meshless method that is numerically more flexible. In order to validate the accuracy of the numerical wave tank based on the desingularized indirect boundary integral equation method and meshless technique, several numerical simulations were carried out. First, a comparison with numerical results according to the type of desingularized source was carried out and confirmed that continuous line sources can be replaced by simply isolated sources. In addition, a propagation simulation of a $2^{nd}$-order Stokes wave was carried out and compared with an analytical solution. Finally, simulations of propagating waves in shallow water and propagating waves over a submerged bar were also carried and compared with published data.

Estimation of Harbor Responses due to Construction of a New Port in Ulsan Bay

  • Lee, Joong-Woo;Lee, Hoon;Lee, Hak-Seung;Jeon, Min-Su
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.28 no.7
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    • pp.619-627
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    • 2004
  • Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. We also considered the increase of water depth at the entrance channel by dredging work up to 15 meters depth in order to see the dredging effect. Among several model analyses, the nonlinear and breaking wave conditions are showed the most applicable results. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

Numerical analysis of dam breaking problem using SPH (제체의 갑작스런 붕괴로 인한 충격파 수치해석 - SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics)를 중심으로)

  • Cho, Yong Jun;Kim, Gweon Su
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.28 no.3B
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    • pp.261-270
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    • 2008
  • Even though there is a great deal of progress in a numerical method of high caliber like SPH, it is very rarely deployed in a water resources community. Despite the great stride in computing environment, depth averaged approach like a nonlinear shallow equation is still efficient tool for flood routing in large watershed, but it can give some misleading information like the inundation height of flood. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the flow into the dry channel, dry channel with an obstacle triggered by the collapse of a two dimensional water column using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics) in order to boost the application of numerical method of high caliber like SPH in a water resources community. As a most severe test of the robustness of SPH, we also carry out the simulation of the flow through a clearance into the wet channel driven by the rapid removal of a water gate. As a hydrodynamic model, we used the Navier-Stokes equation, a numerical integration of which was carried out using SPH. To verify the validity of newly proposed numerical model, we compare the numerically simulated flow with the others in the literature mainly from VOF and MAC, and hydraulic experiments by Martin and Moyce (1952), Koshizuka et al. (1995) and Janosi et al. (2004). It was shown that agreements between the numerical results in this study and hydraulic experiments are remarkable.