• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.72-82
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• 1992

To accurately estimate nearshore current in shallow water regions. it is necessary to investigate the irregular wave transformation characteristics and radiation stress produced by random sea waves. This research is to investigate the application or the individual wave Analysis Method. the Component Wave Analysis Method and Representative Wave Analysis Method in the shallow water region. These methods were estimated by wave shallowing transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region b)r generating regular waves, two component waves and irregular waves (Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu type). That is, the Indivisual Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the viewpoint of shallow water transformation of wave statistical characteristics and their zero-down-crossing waves (wave height period and wave celerity). And the component Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the view point of shallow water transformation of basic frequency component wave and their interference frequency component wave. In addition, this research is to compare the measured mean water level elevation with the calculated one from radiation stress of irreguar waves that is assumed in the three methods above.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.11-19
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• 1986

This study aims at the elucidation of the distribution of longshore currents after wave breaking. Longshore currents have relations to the beach process and dispersion of contaminants in the nearshore region, thus the understanding of its. mechanism is very important. In the present study, using the electromagnetic current meter, the water particle velocity is measured in the 3-dimensional wave field and Eulerian mean velocity is obtained. At the same time, from the dispersion of tracer, the Lagrangian mean velocity is also obtained. It is observed that the longshore currents were confined within the surf zone and the maximum value of them exists in the surf zone. The longshore currents were considered to be constant toward the depth and we obtained the similar distribution of longshore currents between the measured value and the theoretical ones by Longuet-Higgins model.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.55 no.9
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• pp.669-678
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• 2022

The Haeundae beach and coast suffered synthetical dramatic changes especially in the nearshore topography by the beach nourishment project (i.e., 2013-2015). A previous study showed the rip current characteristics were changed according to the topographical change in terms of their magnitudes and likelihoods through numerical simulations using the FUNWAVE model. The magnitude and likelihood of rip currents decreased because the surfzone width decreased just after the beach nourishment. In this study, however, numerical simulations of the Haeundae rip currents were performed by using the 2017- and 2020-surveyed topographies changed for several years after the beach nourishment. From the simulation results using the topographies surveyed before and after the beach nourishment, it was found that the magnitude and likelihood of rip currents increased due to its increasing surfzone width in 2017 and 2020 and they might be increasing larger than those before the beach nourishment.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.234-265
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• 2013

Oceanic current maps in the secondary school science and earth science textbooks have played an important role in piquing students's inquisitiveness and interests in the ocean. Such maps can provide students with important opportunities to learn about oceanic currents relevant to abrupt climate change and global energy balance issues. Nevertheless, serious and diverse errors in these secondary school oceanic current maps have been discovered upon comparison with up-to-date scientific knowledge concerning oceanic currents. This study presents the fundamental methods and strategies for constructing such maps error-free, through the unification of the diverse current maps currently in the textbooks. In order to do so, we analyzed the maps found in 27 different textbooks and compared them with other up-to-date maps found in scientific journals, and developed a mapping technique for extracting digitalized quantitative information on warm and cold currents in the East Sea. We devised analysis items for the current visualization in relation to the branching features of the Tsushima Warm Current (TWC) in the Korea Strait. These analysis items include: its nearshore and offshore branches, the northern limit and distance from the coast of the East Korea Warm Current, outflow features of the TWC near the Tsugaru and Soya Straits and their returning currents, and flow patterns of the Liman Cold Current and the North Korea Cold Current. The first draft of the current map was constructed based upon the scientific knowledge and input of oceanographers based on oceanic in-situ measurements, and was corrected with the help of a questionnaire survey to the members of an oceanographic society. In addition, diverse comments have been collected from a special session of the 2013 spring meeting of the Korean Oceanographic Society to assist in the construction of an accurate current map of the East Sea which has been corrected repeatedly through in-depth discussions with oceanographers. Finally, we have obtained constructive comments and evaluations of the interim version of the current map from several well-known ocean current experts and incorporated their input to complete the map's final version. To avoid errors in the production of oceanic current maps in future textbooks, we provide the geolocation information (latitude and longitude) of the currents by digitalizing the map. This study is expected to be the first step towards the completion of an oceanographic current map suitable for secondary school textbooks, and to encourage oceanographers to take more interest in oceanic education.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.305-311
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• 1999

This study aims to decipher surface water mass interaction in summer in the South China Sea and East China Sea by radium isotope distribution pattern. Salinity and activity ratio of radium ($^{228}Ra/^{226}Ra$) showed gradual changes, which were adequate to apply simple two end-member mixing between Kuroshio surface water and Changjiang Dilute Water for the East China Sea and the former and Nearshore Diluted Watermass (NDW) for the South China Sea. Two tracer methods, salinity and Ra isotope ratio, were compared for East China Sea. Results showed remarkable consistency for waters near Kuroshio, however, discrepancy were noticeable after Tsushima Warm Current branching. Mixing with subsurface waters may cause the discrepancy. When mixed with subsurface waters, salts and radium isotope ratio are expected to be biased in opposite direction, i. e. prone to underestimate the fraction of less saline water in the case of salts and vice versa for Ra isotope ratio. Taking the mean values of two different results seems more realistic to estimate fraction of end-members.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.15-26
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• 1990

Narrow (10-20 km wide) and steep (0.3-$2.4^{\circ}$) continental shelf off the eastern coast of Korea is covered with terrigenous clastic sediments reflecting the Holocene fluctuation of sea level. Surface sediments on the inner shelf consist of muddy sand and sandy mud with some gravels near the coast. However, sand or muddy sand, shell fragments and well rounded gravels occur near the edge of continental shelf at the depth of about 130-l50m. The coarse sediments near the shelf edge seem to be the relict or palimpsest sediments deposited under the nearshore environment during the low-stand or sea level due to so-called the Wisconsinan glaciation. Distribution of recent sediments near the coast and the inner shelf may reflect the affect of waves and currents precluding the deposition of fine sediment near the coast and on the shallow portion of shelf. Eastern Korean Warm Current also nay have played an important role to the transport and distribution of fine sediments from the south.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.96-102
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• 2014

A three-dimensional beach evolution model was presented to predict morphodynamics around a river mouth. The presented model was based on the depth-averaged (2DH) and quasi three-dimensional (Q-3D) nearshore current modules, and the model took into account shoreline changes, the effect of advection diffusion of suspended load and discharged sediments from the river. First, the 3D beach evolution model was applied to the formation of sand spits and terrace at the river mouth in order to investigate the performance of the model. Secondly, the model was applied to the river mouth at the Ara River, facing the Sea of Japan. The formation of sand spit at the Ara River in winter season was reproduced. The computed result showed qualitatively agreement with field site observation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.350-360
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• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-20
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• 2018

The target area of the proposed study, Mamaia beach, is a narrow stretch of sand barrier island that sits between the Siutghiol Lake and the Black Sea. In the northern part of the bay, is located the Midia Port, where between 1966 and 1971 a long extension of 5 km of the offshore was built. Because of this extension, the natural flow of sediments has been significantly changed. Thus, the southern part of the Mamaia Bay had less sand nourishment which meant that the coast was eroding and to prevent it a protection of six dikes was built. After approximately forty years of coastal erosion, the south of the Mamaia Bay had in 2016 a new protection scheme, which includes first of all the beach nourishment and a new dike structure (groins scheme for protection) to protect it. From this perspective, the objective of the proposed study is to evaluate the effectiveness of the old Master plan against the new one by modeling the outcome of the two scenarios and to perform a comparison with a third one, in which the protection dikes do not exist and only the artificial nourishment has been done. In order to assess the wave processes and the current patterns along the shoreline, a complex computational framework has been applied in the target area. This joins the SWAN spectral phase averaged model with the 1D surf model. Furthermore, new UAV technology was also used to map out, chart and validate the numerical model outputs within the target zone for a better evaluation of the trends expected in the shoreline dynamics.