• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.403-412
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• 2010

This study was aimed to consider the influence of hue-tone, dyes, and mordants of naturally dyed silk fabric on color sensibility image factors and to establish color sensibility image scales of naturally dyed silk fabric by color and image descriptors. By single or sequential dyeing with various natural dyes commercially available in domestic and foreign market on the same silk fabric, a total of 66 colored fabric stimuli were prepared and they were used to evaluate subjective color sensibility image by 40 participants. As results, four different color sensibility image factors for naturally dyed silk fabric, 'delight', 'natural', 'modern' and 'attractive' were extracted. All of factors were significantly influenced by hue-tone, dyes, and mordants. Furthermore, by using color sensibility image adjectives and colors, multidimensional image scales were established, which leads to the conclusions that the results of this study help to design color sensibility-oriented naturally dyed fabric and apparel products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.69-81
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• 2014

Fabric made of 100% silk was dyed with Undaria pinnatifida extracts under different conditions such as varing colorant concentration, temperature, time and dyebath pH. The dye uptake (K/S, value), CIE L*,a*,b* and Munsell values of the dyed samples and mordanted samples were measured. Colorfastness, antibacterial property and UV protection property were also evaluated. As colorants concentration increased, the dye uptake increased progressively and maximum color strength was obtained at 100% V/V. Dye uptake also increased with increasing temperature and time, and the maximum color strength was obtained at $80^{\circ}C$ and 60min. With pre-mordanting, the color of the Al and Fe mordanted silk fabrics was yellow on the Munsell color system, while the Cu mordanted fabric was a greenish color. Al and Fe post-mordanted fabrics had a yellow tone, and the Cu post-mordanted fabric had a yellow greenish tone. The light fastness property of the Cu mordanted silk fabric was relatively good, The effect of Al and Fe mordanting on fastness was insignificant. The antibacterial activity of dyed and unmordanted silk fabric was excellent, whereas fabric dyed and mordanted with Undaria pinnatifida extract demonstrated superior ultraviolet protection.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.219-234
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• 2014

Fabrics, natural dyed fabrics, papers, natural dyed papers and paints were examined effects of colors and mechanical properties for materials of museum collections under anoxic treatment. Anoxic conditions using nitrogen and argon were oxygen concentration 0.01%, temperature($20^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $30^{\circ}C$), 50% RH and exposure time 30 days. Examined fabrics were raw silk fabric, UV irradiated raw silk fabric, degummed silk fabric, UV irradiated degummed silk fabric, cotton fabric, and UV irradiated cotton fabric. Natural dyed silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with fresh indigo, indigo, safflower, gromwell, madder sappanwood, amur cork tree, turmeric, gardenia, barberry root, pagoda tree flower, cochineal, lac, alnus japonica, gallnut, chestnut shell, and combination(indigo and safflower, indigo and amur cork tree, indigo and pagoda tree flower, indigo and sappanwood). Papers were Korean papers(mulberry paper, mulberry(70%) and rice straw(30%) mixed paper), Japanese paper(gampi paper), cotton paper, refined linen paper, cotton, linen & manila mixed fibre furnish, copy paper, news print, and alum sized mulberry paper. Natural dyed papers were dyed with indigo, sappanwood, madder, safflower, gardenia, amur cork tree, and pagoda tree flower. Paints were painted on alum-sized papers and silk fabrics using glue and pigments(azurite, malachite, cinnabar, vermilion, orpiment, gamboge, red lead, haematite, iron oxide red, indigo(lake), lac, cochineal, safflower, madder root lake, celadonite, smalt, ultramarine blue, lapis lazuli, prussian blue, kaolin, lead white, oyster-shell white, and clam-shell white). The color differences(${\Delta}E^*$) of all examined materials were below 1.5 or lowered than control samples after anoxic treatment. The variations of tenacity of yarns of fabrics and natural dyed fabrics after anoxic treatment were within that of standard silk and cotton fabrics. Gases(nitrogen and argon) and temperatures of anoxic treatment did not also affected color differences and variations of tenacity of materials.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.23-29
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to improve the dyeability and the color fastness to light of cotton fabric dyed with extraction of cinnamon cassia. Cotton fabric was pretreated with chito-colla to enhance the dyeability, and K/S values were compared chito-colla pretreated fabric and untreated fabric. In addition, to improve of color fastness to light of dyed fabric, it was used FFC compound as mordant. Also, it was measured SOD-liked activity of FFC compound and lifht fastness of dyed fabrics. The results are as follow; K/S value of cotton fabric pretreated with chito-colla(5%) was much more increased than untreated fabric. SOD-liked activity of FFC compound was observed over 70%. Light fastness of cotton fabric treated with FFC compound was 3～4 grades.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.866-877
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of hanji cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics in pre-mordanting. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. In the processing of hanji cotton fabrics, K/S value was high when hanji cotton fabric was treated with soybean milk at $90^{\circ}C$. Similar K/S value of dyeing was shown when fabrics were processed with chitosan, regardless of dyeing temperature. High K/S value of dyeing was seen when fabrics processed with gallnut tannin at 40. Fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed yellowish color. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color, and fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed greenish yellow color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness level was between 3 to 4, and other dyed fabrics showed low fastness. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness of the fabrics was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. Hanji cotton fabric maintained certain deodorization in the state of raw fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher UV protection rate than control fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.768-777
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• 2015

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.8
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• pp.99-105
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• 2002

This study was to investigate the natural dyeing materials in domestic, trials to detect new Inula Britannica. An appropriate dyeing condition ;was bath ratio 1:20, 50% (o.w.f.)conc., $80^{\circ}C$, 50min. The K/S values of silk fabric was the most efficient for the pre-mordanting method. The value of dyed fabric was mostly dark, for the mordanting, the chroma was best clear when using the Cr-mordant, color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The antimicrobiality of Inula Britannica itself appeared as a 6mm halo zone, dyed fabric was excellent with result of over 90% in mordant. In the case of dye fastness, the drycleaning and wet cleaning fastness was excellent, rubbing and perspiration fastness was improved, and light fastness was over level 2.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.95-103
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• 2021

This study aims to examine the antibacterial effects of cotton and silk fabrics naturally dyed with Artemisia princeps extract on antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria. The concentrated natural dye of the Artemisia princeps extract was made at the liquor ratio of 1:10 at 40-60℃ for 60 minutes. The concentration of FeSO4·7H2O, Al2(SO4)3, and CuSO4 5H2O mordant was 3% (owf), and the liquor ratio was 1:20. In order to experiment on the antimicrobial activity of the naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by breeding it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) containing Oxacillin (2㎍/ml), Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml), and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA). As a result of examining the bacterial growth reduction rate on dyed cotton and silk fabrics against antibiotic-resistant strains, it was found that the copper mordant in cotton fabric shows the highest antibacterial activity with a bacterial growth reduction rate of 99.9%, and the non-mordant cotton fabric shows the lowest antibacterial activity with a reduction rate of 18.6%. In the case of the naturally dyed silk fabric, it indicates the highest reduction rate of strains in the Al mordanting (94.9%), and Cu mordanting (99.9%).

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.202-209
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• 2015

Many of the natural dyes used for natural dyeing are difficult to maintain colorfastness due to their complex structure and specific properties. Therefore, there is a need for developing of color sustainable ability for use as an advanced coloring agent for fabrics, which would eco benign or not. In this study, the natural dye extracted from the waste of grape fruits was used to dye cotton fabric. Thus, the present study aims at extraction of color from grape seeds, skin, and stem through fermentation and then employing the same in dyeing and mordanting of cotton. Dyeing experiments were done under different conditions of fermentation and protein type mordants which were treated before and after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were used with cotton after scouring. Color value of dyed fabrics and color fastness of cotton dyed fabrics to washing and light were measured. The fastness of dyed experimental fabrics was increased by mordanting of protein fermentation and the color of dyed cotton was light red purple. The color of dyed fabric found with the optimum mordant treatment when treated with pre milk-mordant at $40^{\circ}C$ for 30min and 3% grape seed extract. On the whole, reddish tone very slightly increased with the milk pre-mordant. The color fastness of dyed cotton fabrics to light and washing was increased after fermentation.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.199-206
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• 2000

Silk fabric was dyed using methanol extract of Chrysanthemum boreale at $60^\circ{C}$ for 40min. The K/S value of the silk fabric was highest in the premordanting method, while the amount of absorbed mordant was largest in the Cu-mordanting. The surface colors of the dyed fabric highly depended upon mordants or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was dark. The chroma was high by using the Cr-mordant and the color difference was distinct by using the Fe-mordant. Cu-mordanted silk showed highest fastness to light. Dyed silk fabrics by mordanting method showed good antimicrobial activity ad deodorization property.