• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.544-551
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• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1408-1419
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion trends of last three years and how the trends were imaged by the structural characteristics of the fabrics. The characteristics for 897 fabrics were analyzed from four kinds. eleven volumes of fashion trend magazines. From these magazines, three panels categorized by their frequencies as nine images such as natural, innocent, ethnic, childish, casual, classic, modern and technical, Sub-images of each image such as rustic, irregular, decorative, etc were also categorized. For the each image, fiber contents and structural characteristics of weave type, weight, density, yarn size, twist and fabric finishes were investigated in terms of frequency, range and mean, Results showed that chiffon and organza seemed to have very specific images and used to represent specifically the romantic or ethnic images; whereas voile and jersey was used to represent various images. For S/S seasons, most popular fiber type was cotton. The weave type was not the important factor to give variations in images; plan weave exclusively used irrespective of image. For the romantic, ethnic and innocent images, rather light fabrics were used. For the childish and natural, medium weights, and for the technical, modern and classic images heavy weight fabrics were used. Vaious finishes were employed to represent specific images.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.979-993
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• 2016

Mongolian cashmere sliver, yarn, and fabric were dyed and bleached with a solution of ascorbic acid and iron sulfate at $70^{\circ}C$, and then dyed using natural indigo powder at the dyeing temperature of $25^{\circ}C$ to $90^{\circ}C$ for 15-90 minutes using the IR dyeing machine. K/S values of bleached samples decreased significantly when dyed above $70^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature for a longer dyeing time. Bleached cashmere fabric showed a greater loss of tensile strength than unbleached cashmere fabric, even when the samples were dyed at $40^{\circ}C$. With a higher dyeing temperature, yarns lost fullness, became thinner, and the pores between the yarns were enlarged. The x-ray diffraction pattern exhibited a prominent increase in crystallinity and the protein assay indicated a loss of protein in the bleached sample dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. Thinning of scales, fractured or raised tip of scales, and roughness on the entire surface of the fiber were also observed. The results indicate that bleaching and high temperature dyeing cause a serious damage to cashmere fibers. In addition, bleaching and high temperature dyeing cause significant fiber damage. Natural indigo dyeing using low temperature dyeing is recommended to produce blue color cashmere.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.95-103
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• 2021

This study aims to examine the antibacterial effects of cotton and silk fabrics naturally dyed with Artemisia princeps extract on antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria. The concentrated natural dye of the Artemisia princeps extract was made at the liquor ratio of 1:10 at 40-60℃ for 60 minutes. The concentration of FeSO4·7H2O, Al2(SO4)3, and CuSO4 5H2O mordant was 3% (owf), and the liquor ratio was 1:20. In order to experiment on the antimicrobial activity of the naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by breeding it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) containing Oxacillin (2㎍/ml), Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml), and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA). As a result of examining the bacterial growth reduction rate on dyed cotton and silk fabrics against antibiotic-resistant strains, it was found that the copper mordant in cotton fabric shows the highest antibacterial activity with a bacterial growth reduction rate of 99.9%, and the non-mordant cotton fabric shows the lowest antibacterial activity with a reduction rate of 18.6%. In the case of the naturally dyed silk fabric, it indicates the highest reduction rate of strains in the Al mordanting (94.9%), and Cu mordanting (99.9%).

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.430-437
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• 2012

This study analyzed the sensibility of eco-friendly fabrics for college students and investigated their attitude on environmental problems, trust reliability onto eco-apparel products, and their purchase state. We tested 6 eco-friendly fabrics (recycled polyester, organic cotton, green tea, charcoal, bamboo, and nettle) through a survey using the Likert scale of 12 polar sensibility words. Most fabrics showed feelings that were smooth, natural, female, and country these were followed by fashion, cheap, functional, sustainable, warm, and vintage. In addition, nettle fabric showed 'rough' feeling, and recycled polyester fabric showed an 'artificial' feeling. Correspondence analysis showed the distance and direction between fabric types and sensibility words with a 2D diagram where the X axis was named with 'Soft <-> Hard' and Y axis was with 'Environmental <-> Manmade' to represent the relationship between fabric types and the sensibility words. According to the results of the multiple regression analysis, the cognition level of the consumer for environmental problems was found to be the most influential variable on the loyalty purchase of eco-friendly products; however, the trust reliability level of consumer onto eco-friendly apparel products was found to be the most influential variable on the conditional purchase of eco-friendly apparel products.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.202-209
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• 2015

Many of the natural dyes used for natural dyeing are difficult to maintain colorfastness due to their complex structure and specific properties. Therefore, there is a need for developing of color sustainable ability for use as an advanced coloring agent for fabrics, which would eco benign or not. In this study, the natural dye extracted from the waste of grape fruits was used to dye cotton fabric. Thus, the present study aims at extraction of color from grape seeds, skin, and stem through fermentation and then employing the same in dyeing and mordanting of cotton. Dyeing experiments were done under different conditions of fermentation and protein type mordants which were treated before and after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were used with cotton after scouring. Color value of dyed fabrics and color fastness of cotton dyed fabrics to washing and light were measured. The fastness of dyed experimental fabrics was increased by mordanting of protein fermentation and the color of dyed cotton was light red purple. The color of dyed fabric found with the optimum mordant treatment when treated with pre milk-mordant at $40^{\circ}C$ for 30min and 3% grape seed extract. On the whole, reddish tone very slightly increased with the milk pre-mordant. The color fastness of dyed cotton fabrics to light and washing was increased after fermentation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1484-1492
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• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.202-209
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• 2021

Natural dyes are more expensive than synthetic dyes and the dyeing process, which is mainly immersion of dye, is complicated. For this reason, relatively small-scale production methods were predominant. However, awareness and interest in environmental sustainability is rising globally, and the use of synthetic dyes causes various environmental problems such as wastewater and CO₂ emission, so the consumption of natural dyes is increasing. In addition, interest in digital textile printing, an eco-friendly dyeing method that can produce products of various designs and uses less water, is growing. In this study, natural indigo dye (Indigofera tinctoria) was used as a raw material for Digital Textile Printing ink, and ¹⁴C (Biocarbon) present in it was measured to confirm whether it was derived from natural ingredients. The performance was confirmed by testing the pH, viscosity, electrical conductivity, surface tension, and particle size analysis of natural indigo ink. In addition, the performance of natural indigo DTP ink and printing fabric was evaluated by inspecting the change in color fastness and corresponding index substances before and after digital printing with natural indigo DTP ink on textiles. Through this, the possibility of commercialization of DTP ink and printing fabric using natural indigo was confirmed.

• 보존과학연구
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• 통권32호
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• pp.25-35
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• 2011

천연물로부터 항균 및 방충작용에 효과적인 물질을 검색한 결과, 목초액과 세신추출물이 강한 생물활성을 나타내는 후보물질로 선발되었다. 천연 항균 및 살충제로서 선발된 목초액과 세신추출물은 자체에 색을 지니고 있어 이들을 이용하여 문화재 보존 처리제로 사용하였을 경우 유기질 문화재 재질에 나쁜 영향을 줄 수 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 섬유 재질에 대한 영향을 평가하기 위하여 무염색 섬유 시편과 염색 섬유 시편을 대상으로 두 종의 천연 살충소재를 $28^{\circ}C$ 온도와 70% 습도 조건에서 노출 실험을 실시하였으며, 천연 살충소재 처리 후 6개월 동안 이들 섬유의 색변화를 2주 간격으로 측정하였다. 그 결과 세신추출물의 경우 무염색 섬유뿐만 아니라 천연 염색한 붉은색과 푸른색의 섬유에서 또한 색변화가 크게 나타나지 않았으며, FT-IR spectrum 분석 결과에서도 초기 시편과 비교 시 큰 변화가 관찰되지 않았다. 그러나 목초액의 경우 무염색 면섬유에 있어서 3주차부터 뚜렷한 색변화가 관찰되었으며, FT-IR spectrum 분석 결과에서도 초기 시편과 비교했을 때 특정 파장대의 피크가 없어지는 것으로 나타났다. 그러므로 목초액의 경우 유기질 문화재 보존처리제로 적용할 경우 섬유 재질에 영향을 미칠 수 있어 사용에 제한을 두어야 한다.