• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권11호
• /
• pp.1786-1797
• /
• 2010

This study investigates the historical formation and characteristics of modern Korean consumption culture by reviewing previous literature about consumption spaces and conspicuous consumption in modern Korea. This study examined the historical formation and characteristics of three different periods of time: from 1876 to 1919, from 1920 to 1936, and from 1937 to 1945. In addition, the current study reviews previous literature related to advertising, poems, novels, historical events, and Orientalism. Based on this, the historical characteristics were also analyzed. The overall results were as follows: The first period from 1876 to 1919 was the beginning of modern Korean consumption culture, in which exotic goods such as foreign fabrics were preferred and consumed. In addition, clothing was simplified and westernized through modern reform. The second period of time, 1920 to 1936, was the development stage of modern Korean consumption culture that formed the foundation of modern consuming spaces where the recognition of the human form became more modern, and 'modern girls' styles appeared. The final period, 1937 to 1945, was the regression stage of Korean modern consumption culture, in which consumption decreased during the Sino-Japanese War and World War II. The results of this study' conclude that the leading-consumer items hold symbolic value as well as became signifiers within modern consumption spaces such as modern Korean department stores and that women were recognized as modern leading-consumers as shown by the dramatic increase in the number of products that targeted women.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권9_10호
• /
• pp.1476-1484
• /
• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Tuxedo-Look in the modern women fashion from 1990s to the present. It could contribute to understand the aspects and the sense of beauty of the modern fashion. This study is performed by reviewing the precedent studies, related literature and deploying fashion portfolios, domestic and international fashion magazines for the exploratory study. The results of the study are the following. First, Tuxedo-Look expresses the androgenous image which weakens the superficial message of masculinity or femininity and produces the unified image of men and women. Tuxedo-Look, a symbolic male dress item, is brought in the women clothes and it is recreated by design modification, new wearing style, and producing effects. Second, Tuxedo-Look emphasizes femininity by using a exposure and body line stressed design and matching the women dress items with various materials and colors or tuxedo. Third, Tuxedo-Look suggests a dismantling point of view such as exaggeration, distortion, secession, and breaking from the convention. Tuxedo-Look expresses uncertain value by breaking up the symbolic valueby coordinating with casual items and denies formal construct of tuxedo such as perfect balance, symmetrical silhouette, formality, totality.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제24권4호
• /
• pp.117-133
• /
• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권7호
• /
• pp.38-50
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is first, to see through the aesthetic essence of the clothing as art, through theoretical consideration of cultural feature and body style in Postmodern Feminism. Also, this study will examine the aesthetic value in artistic meaning regarding a Deformational body image in visual an. Second, this study will analysis the formative character of Modern Art to wear which expressed unfixed body style, followed by the change of Postmodern Feminity, as a Deformation image. This character will be categorized by Expansion, Grotesque, Pleasure, and Virtuality. The following is the result of this study. Expansion expressed in modern Art to wear created intentional structure of the form, and intentionally presented refusal of body existence through disembodied. Grotesque expressed refusal and deviation of women's ideal body style, which is defined by mannish discourse, very grotesquely. Pleasure pleasantly presented free emotion through an intentional transformation like distortion or imbalance of the body By paradoxically reproducing women's virtual body as other unfixed female identity was expressed visually through virtuality to embody post-gender.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제10권2호
• /
• pp.39-56
• /
• 2008

It is a remarkable phenomenon that tattoos has been rapidly spreading among women of modern years. The extremism of feminine ornaments, and pricking and piercing of the skin seem to have deep connection with women's consciousness changing to being independent, active and aggressive. The objective of this study is to analyze the potential quality of today's women, who appears emblematically through tattoo, and to search out the whole aspect and keynote of female tattoos. The methods of research are by examining the general characteristics including concept and history, considering the type and significance of ethnic female tattoos, and then comparing with the symbolism of today's female tattoos. The sphere is limited to women's tattoos from ancient times to today's modern lift, examined from large portions of Africa, Asia, Australasia, the Americas, and Arctic regions. As a result, the following had been reflected in female tattoos in the past. First, incantation, tribe, adult age, adornment, marital status, domestic ability and sex distinction, where among others, the incantatory, ornamental symbol, and domestic sign were representatives. Second, the most popular body parts for having a tattoo were around the lips, hands and abdominal region. Third, the more harsh the environment becomes such as tropical forests, isolated islands, and polar regions, the more number of females have tatoos. Fourth, women's tattoos were much less glamorous and smaller compared to those of men, distinguishing one's sex. On the other hand, today's female tattoos can be classified as five symbols: masculinity, independence, voluptuousness, affection, and purity. These symbols contain women's mentality to pass the limit, and to overcome social inferiority. In modern society, where women must compete with met it has become necessary for women to educe their potential masculine qualities. Being violent accessories for them, tattoos became a mark of such potential. Therefore, in the future, women's interest and demand for tattoos are expected to rise in proportion to the social demand of women's force.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제19권2호
• /
• pp.118-135
• /
• 2015

This study probed into the fashion of modern girls between the 1920's and the 1930's who led the mentality and fashion of women as the progenitor of the alpha girl in Korea. For this, the fashion of actual people who received attention as modern girls in various occupations and that of modern girl heroines reinterpreted in films were examined. Methods included the theoretical study based on fashion related newspaper articles at the time, specialized publications, advance researches, and internet data and the empirical study that involved contents analysis centering on visual data. The Western women's fashion between the 1920's-1930's was dominated by the garçonne look to promote women's entry into society and competition against men and the practical and mature long and slim look due to the influence of economic recess. Korean people also adapted Western clothes following Western fashion while also modified the traditional clothes and wore modified Korean clothes. The fashion of 5 actual modern girls of Korea and that of 3 film heroines were examined. The fashion of actual people most well represented the fashion trends at the time and that they used fashion as the means to express their mentality and their artistic propensity and professionalism were expressed through fashion. On the other hand, the fashion of film heroines substantially expressed various occupations of the characters in the film and reflected trendy clothes and cosmetics, and it showed sexy and romantic fashion trend due to the influence of modern trends and reinterpretations.

• 미술이론과 현장
• /
• 제4호
• /
• pp.105-121
• /
• 2006

The term 'modern', in broader sense, refers to the concepts like modernity, modernization, modernism and the like, which came from Westernization impling the recognition of indigenous culture as being inferior to Western culture by comparison along with the expanded influences of the Empire of Japan. These concepts, however, rather than evolving from Western standards, came into being as a form of civilization led by Japan which had already tasted the fruits of modernization by 1920s. Since 1920s, the policy of, so-called, reconstructing Asian countries by Japan came to create eastern way of modernism, as a new East Asian trend mainly revealed in China which was against colonization after Japan's invasion and conquest of Manchuria. Therefore, Eastern' modern' unlike Western one could be understood in the widespread terminology, 'Modern(摩登)' in Shanghai, reflecting consciousness like 'Fashion' or 'Trend' in female images on a variety of visual media. By 1930s it was the most notable that 'modern' was accepted as something similar with 'Fashion', or 'Trend' in sociocultural contexts. These atmosphere had led commercial arts to enable to communicate with the public in a great deal of supports and success in Shanghai which was widely regarded as the citadel for the inflow of Western culture, among which transformations in female images were remarkable as a representative form of culture. It is also remarkable that 'historical modernity' transforming from the feudal age to modern society was considered a synchronic modernity, and nationalism was regarded as a sort of being modern, while involved in the newly-changed female images as a fashion mode. Changes in fashion including hair style in Shanghai by 1930s, as a way of expressions showing what was modern through commercial artistic productions, were easily noticed in visual media as an outlet of modern women's inner desire revealing their pursuit for new mode of life in metropolitan cities. As a characteristic of the time creating a new code of visual female images, it is notable that there existed another form of 'modern' satisfying socio-cultural needs of the general public seeking for being 'modern'.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제17권3호
• /
• pp.431-446
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze the gender role changes of Korean women reflected on their costumes during 20th century. To analyze the diachronic gender role changes, social environments(education, job, economy, family systems, mass-media) of 20 th century were inquired by 10 years and comparatively analyzed with 680 images of representative costumes each periods. The results are as followed. 1) $1900s{\sim}1910s$: The most representative women's gender role was a wise mother and good wife. Therefore the adopted western costume, a symbol of civilization, were represented women as a passive and sexual object of man. 2) $1920s{\sim}1930s$: 'Shin Yeosung(Modern Girl)' was the representative gender role of that time. They were the symbol of enlightenment and new education. Their costumes influenced to the changes of traditional Hanbok in functional side. 3) $1940s{\sim}1950s$: In World War II. a strong and stubborn women were wanted to support their family. They threw feminity and changed their costumes into an active and functional 'Mombbe'. 4) $1960s{\sim}1970s$: Women asserted Gender equality and resisted the traditional women's gender role. Mini Skirts and Unisex costumes were symbolic costumes reflecting the changes. 5) 1980s: The self confidence of women's gender role affected the androgynous look and body-conscious look in modern fashion. 6) $1990s{\sim}2000s$: Now, the dichotomy of gender role is not no longer effective way to understand the social changes and fashion trend rather than personal characteristics and lifestyle trends.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제15권5호
• /
• pp.902-915
• /
• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제5권2호
• /
• pp.47-55
• /
• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing the woman costume presented in the korean modern novel by continuity, mixture, and discontinuity. For the costume analysis, the korean modern novel written from 1910 to 1945 were used. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Continuity: It doesn't mean discontinuity from the past but succession and development of the past, which explains about the costume culture for the period from 1910 to 1919. During this period, people tended to wear korean traditional costume in an effort to maintain their national identity. 2. Mixture: It means the effort to synthesize and develop past, present and future, which explains about the apparel for the period from 1920 to 1937. During this period, western culture was introduced much into korea to be established as part of our people's life. The new generation of women who studied abroad introduced the western costume throughout the cities, while the convenient western costume served to improve korean traditional costume. 3. Discontinuity: It means a conscious departure from the past as well as a critical reaction to the past, which explains about the costume culture for the period from 1938 to 1945. For this period, western costume was popular among new generation of women, while it was more diversified with increasing population wearing them. Many country men and women proceeded to wear the western costume.