• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.353-367
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• 2019

These days, costumes of Korean creative dancing performances have been changed to be modernized and to be out of traditional regulation, as the representation of the Korean styles were replaced by other props and art devices. In this article, we have applied the emotions expressed in Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos (Korean traditional poems), to Korean creative dancing costumes in modern style. chose three typical sijos from her six pieces, titled "Green mountain is like what I've meant", "To Byeokgyesoo in Cheongsan-ri" and "Dongjibam ginaginbam". In brief, Jin-Yi Hwang expressed her "everlasting love and emptiness", "temptative conciliation" and "eager waiting" these three sijos, respectively. The character of Jin-Yi Hwang was shown in many TV soap operas and films, and the costumes were either much modernized, and not accurately based on the sijos she had written. Thus, we designed, made flat sketched, and fabricated three Korean creative dancing costumes from the three sijos, listed. We tried to highlight the aesthetic impression and the activeness of the dancing costumes, using both traditional and modern Korean fabrics. Since Korean dance costumes had not yet been inspired from Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos, we discussed the importance of the fabric items, as well as the visual, auditory, and tactile characteristics of the costumes and dancers to emphasize Jin-Yi Hwang's expressed emotions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.124-139
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to determine the aesthetic identity of modern eroticism fashion in which the energy of desire is maximized through the 'jouissance' and 'gaze' of the unconscious theory of Jacques Lacan. The research method derived aesthetic identity after examining jouissance and gaze deeply related to eroticism in Lacan's theory of the unconscious by analyzing data of domestic and foreign monographs and prior research. Case analysis was limited to 2000 S/S to 2022 F/W. Based on prior research, it was analyzed mainly on clothing with eroticism characteristics of 'exposure, close contact, see-through, the conversion of underclothes into outer garments'. Results of the study are as follows. First, eroticism, which can be linked to Lacan's type of 'jouissance' with multiple meanings as the generating point of eroticism, has manifested itself in voyeuristic eroticism, fatale eroticism, masochistic eroticism, surplus eroticism, and sacred eroticism. Second, as eyes of unconscious desire, visual expression characteristics of 'gaze' appeared as anamorphosis, trompe l'oeil, and dépaysement. The identity of eroticism derived from Lacan's jouissance and the perspective of the desire gaze was divided into voyeuristic desire to gaze, fatal desire to gaze, masochistic desire to gaze, surplus desire to gaze, and sacred desire to gaze. Results of this study will expand theoretical horizons of eroticist fashion with a new interpretation of eroticism by combining Lacan's desire as a repressed and alienated subject within the human unconscious with the art that expands it.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.61-76
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is the development of an experimental design that aims to implement three-dimensional fashion design by observing the human body, extracting and combining geometric shapes and forms, and focusing on attempts to decompose the geometry of the human body in art history. Considering the characteristics of fashion design, which inevitably reflect human images visually, this study considered works by deriving geometric shapes and forms of the human body and focusing on decomposition and combination to apply them to fashion design. The results obtained through the development of fashion design through decomposition and combination based on geometric human body analysis are as follows. First, geometric analysis of the human body as an object of expression continues from the history of Cubism to modern fashion design. Second, the geometric shapes of the human body that appear in contemporary fashion design maximize visual effects through three-dimensional composition, emphasizing simplicity while showing originality through various expressions. Third, when exploring the geometric shapes of a moving human body, it was possible to extract a wide variety of shapes and forms through drawing and simplifying the human body's movements. Fourth, the formative method of fashion design was introduced and used for the aesthetic combination of objects for fashion design through decomposition and combination. This study was able to show unique and diverse combinations of visually concise and ordered geometric shapes in the expression of fashion design by decomposing and combining them. The significance of these geometric forms is that they can diversify formative informativeness in the expression of fashion design with modern compositional beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.109-123
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• 2011

Postmodernism has affected general culture and arts as a powerful cultural image that has governed the later 20th century, and it is still a main subject as Zeitgeist representing modern society. Accordingly, this study is to verify the role and importance of the stage costume according to change of the art trend in the present age by clarifying relations between the postmodernism and the stage costume, and analyzing the postmodernism trend shown in postmodern classes. The postmodernism trend in costume is summarized as the deconstructionism, eclecticism and the populism. Hereunder is the conclusion of applying Postmodernism characteristics and creation mechanism commonly existing in theater and costume to the costumes of Korean theaters since 1990's. First, a deconsructionism trend of the Korean theater was visualized by the expression method of disembodiment and decomposition of stage costumes. Second, expression phase of interculturalism was concretely visualized through the stage costume, and it was considered that the postmodernism creation method. Third, a populism trend since 1990's was reflected to the stage costume, and deduced consensus with the audience and subculture familiar with the public as well as appeared as a phenomenon that emphasized a recreational elements. It is analyzed that this trend is a result that a concept of sportiveness was directly transferred through strong visual expression function of the stage costume. As a result of analyzing a Korean theater of the postmodernism disposition since 1990s, the costume reflected creational will of the postmodernism of works and played an important role as visual arts, created with a similar method and form.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.39-54
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• 2006

Focusing on the emergence of the basic course in American schools of architecture, in particular Gyorgy Kepes' courses at MIT, this paper studies the transformation of architectural pedagogy during the years after World War II. Kepes centered his architectural pedagogy on the picture plane, which was to function as the primary media for applying the principles of Gestalt psychology, that is the identification of the whole and its parts and the reciprocity between the internal human organism and the outside world. Kepes hence introduced a set of unconventional visual practices that were not readily assimilated to architectural conventions. Paralleling the establishment of the basic course, MIT also formulated a functionalist and spatial pedagogy with its two initial design studios, courses 4.721 and 4.722. These studios shared the notion that architectural design evolved from the inside toward the outside, an idea that took hold not just in the pragmatic environment of MIT's studios but also in conservative academic programs as well as in popular magazines, picture books, and exhibitions for the consumer public. The architectural surface became inseparable from the objects of art, furniture, and design, all of which were to be the generators of space. Hence, during the 1950s, the architectural surface provided a specific locus of intersection between the visual fundamentals of the basic course and the working principles of architectural design. Kepes, however, had by this time become disillusioned with architecture's potential as the medium of unity. Though he maintained the Gestalt logic of identity, he expanded it toward the goal of grander synthesis of society and consciousness freeing himself from the constraints of disciplinary instruction. In the case of Kepes, the mediating role of the picture plane was foregone in a regressive turn toward a primal, innocent, and direct experience.

• Proceedings of the Korea Contents Association Conference
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• 2005.11a
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• pp.105-110
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• 2005

Painting and writing are exceedingly different in the way they are visually express. However, if one were to trace the roots of both painting and writing, one would discover the two have the same origins. At one time, both painting and writing fulfilled the function portraying mutual or reciprocal messages to the masses. On the other hand, after the time of medieval manuscript and typography, they were separated completely into image and text. Today, the images are interpreted into the text. Meanwhile, the text better communicates its ideas to the masses through additional support of the simultaneous image. The joint use of the shaping of mutual exchanges between literature and visual art is being enlivened between scholars through their tendency to converse or communicate through the media. Moreover, the visual configuration and characters that strike into the new media are one of the various uses and the significantly important methods of deliberative communication that are necessary for hypertext functioning. In the following text, I will expande and develope the historical communication scheme and the process of modification of painting and writing, lead the origination of modern new-pictograph.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.18 no.12
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• pp.549-563
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• 2020

Based on Deleuze's body aesthetics and from the perspective of 'deterritoraliazation', this study makes an in-depth discussion on the modern fashion design modeling by four visual characteristics: hysteria, visualization, body segmentation and becoming animals. First, hysteria embodies the strong visual effect brought by the deformation and exaggeration of clothing. Second, visualization in fashion shows the elimination or ambiguity of faces, representing the weakening of identity and the prominence of clothing and body. Third, body segmentation represents the deconstruction and reorganization of clothing, and a new way of thinking, as well. Fourth, becoming-animals are manifested in the physical mutation caused by the heterogeneous connection between humans and animals, which brings about the possibility of rethinking the body.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.6
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• pp.249-266
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• 2004

Nowadays more than 200 countries are living on the earth in international relation. Having their own culture and history, these countries constitute international society, creating their national image with their own identity based on the culture and history. Though each country has cultural goods in which it combines its culture and history to economic area, the global and cultural goods representing a country is not made in short term, but completed by the combination of its long tradition, cultural consciousness of the nation and artistic level. That is to say, the image developed by the country is naturally embodied in the goods and the world recognizes the image and confirms the goods. To embody such Korean and global goods, it is essential to put priority on the research of history and culture of our society. Needless to say, it is very important to find the value of our own differentiated beauty and apply it to each area of design industry. Recognizing the differentiated value of our own cultural originality, this research performs the design of scarf and necktie to exhibit Korean image in modern and fashionable ways for commercialization by developing design of fashion and cultural goods to which Korean image is applied. Through literature and various informations, the theme of design that can best convey Korean image is determined to be the national flag of Korea, Taegeukki and five cardinal colors and the researching method is as follows. First, though the area of developing designs of cultural goods is very wide and various including commerce, industry, products , fashion, handicraft and traditional handicraft, etc., this research sets the scope of developing design, focusing on the fashion accessories utilizing the textile design such as costume, scarf, necktie and so on. Second, the definition and scope of cultural goods and the present situation of domestic cultural goods will be examined. Third, the modelling property and symbolic meaning of the national flag of Korea (Taegeultki) and five cardinal colors, the theme of design will be studied. Fourth, on the basis of above research, scarf and necktie will be designed by modern and fashionable design to which Korean image is applied. Fifth, this is textured in textile printing and gradation for commercialization.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.10
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• pp.5-50
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• 2006

The terminology "human body" simply means a physical body but also more often, as an object in art works, carries symbolic concepts incorporating the whole history of human lives. Human body has been employed as an artistic object capturing physical body, delivering artist's idea expressing life indicators from different standpoints of times and places. This point of view about human body in art works has in fact rather short history since 1960's when modern thinking paradigm focusing upon rationality and reasoning has begun declining and on the contrary when the body used to be the servant of the mind and soul for a long time has begun attracting artist's attention as a real entity from the viewpoint of dichotomy. During the 1960's, frequent performances in Pop art and of Fluxus showed that the human body has been an important media for artistic communication after importance of body performances had been raised in Action painting in 1940's. The human body became a more determined media in body art works that had got into stride after Yves Kline's conceptual works applying body and its traces. These kinds of art works have continued and consolidated into the Feminism came into blossom in 1980's and into fragmentated and disembodied body art trend in 1990's. Through development of trends in body works, human body now might well be regarded as a clue provide from individual identity with implication over the world. This thesis is to analyse in semiotic way main works of Kiki Smith who is a representative artist devoting to Feminism and proposing extended significance of human body. In the analysis process of works done by two great artists with histrorical background of art trend in order to find and open an significance horizon of human body, semiotics and bodism are therefore perceived as pertinent and applied as basic tools. The first stage of analysis is to get the significances emerged in between expression part and contextual parts, which are separated structually from the most basic level. The study deals with body works furthermore in the way of structual cohesion of the expression and the context from the view of A J. Greimas' Structural Semantics and tried to build up a basic frame for the extended significances of human body. This thesis is, on the other hand, to attempt to contribute for extension of disembodied and fragmentated body discussed in the structural semantic frame earlier by Julia Kriesteva who delivers abjection concepts and phenomenology of Maurice Merleau-Ponty who enables to overview relationship between the body and the world from the viewpoint of Bodism, further into interpretation level. The other works are Kiki smith's that showed epics about death in mid-1980's, detailed humbleness of vulnerable human body exposed to dichotomy and fragmentation in 1990's and religion and mythology incorporating wouln healing in 2000's and henceforth. Through the analysis of Kiki Smith's representative work 'Pee body', it is verified and confirmed that fragmentated body showed beyond boundary gap of the human body and ultimately tends to imply human healing owing to divine maternity. Bodily symbols in Kiki Smith's are extended to the universal world to imply human life and death on the one hand and religion and mythology of human wound and divine healing one the other hand. This thesis through these process and results of analysis is in a broad context, to emphasize that human body as objectified text has a key indicator role to understand world as well as semiotic extension in art works in late 20th century so that we might confirm bodily symbol as a cultural context constitutes a section of contemporary visual arts.

• Archives of design research
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• no.18
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• pp.113-121
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• 1996

Persuasion is one of the attractive channels to enhance the relation between markerters and consumers and deliver the true communication on products to the consumers. This arctic tried to examine the symbolic meaning system as a way of maximizing the visual communicational effect of persuasion, the efforts of marketers who are trying to utilize the psychology of the mass that consume the symbol rather than products and the symbol system as a mean of propaganda were analyzed as well. People in modern age, in general, place more value on the emotional assoessibility than the efficiency of the product, As a result, the ways of expression of propaganda approaching the mass are in the process of gradual change, which was another theme this article tried to explore. Ames sied that the human preoeption has a tendency to perceive things in some organized pattern, which can be applied to even untransparable and meaningless image. Human beings don't perceive what there is but what, thery believe there to be, and his peroeption are channelized by the opportunity of the past, his peroeption are channelized by the opportunity of the past, his experience of the environment, and the history of learning. To say another word, people not only recognize the objective form but also accept the inside meaning of the visual object. Their reponse to the visual object, therefore, include personal cognition, judgment, and attitued. The communication in visual design reveals the culture, society, and art in a complex symbol, and make synthetic cultural interpretation possible. It's pretty attractive, effective, and reasonable method to use symbolic meaning system as a way of persuasion. It is because communication means whole process from receiving and delivering the information and message to making common meaning system, to measuring the effect of the behavior change.