• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.696-710
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• 2023

This study investigated the problems of Korean female combat uniforms and collected primary data for developing new combat uniforms with improved functionality. We analyzed fit and motion suitability by administering a questionnaire evaluating the current uniforms to 20 Korean female soldiers. The evaluation of fit suitability found that satisfaction with the combat uniforms was generally high. However, short sleeve length, large wrist circumference, small hip circumference, large ankle circumference, and low crotch height were discomfort factors. In the evaluation of motion suitability, dissatisfaction was found with the sleeve circumference, elbow circumference, armhole circumference, knee crease and crotch height, and back waist height during motion. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a more segmented size system that suits the physique of current female soldiers and to devise appropriate solutions for improving motion suitability. This study is meaningful for its evaluation of the current combat uniform of female soldiers, and it is expected to serve as a reference for the future development of military combat uniforms for this group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.131-142
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• 2006

This research has been done based on the Jeon Si Gwa(田柴科) regulation, the monumental inscription material and the former studies. The background of adapting the official uniform regulation in the early Goryeo Dynasty has been surveyed. Differentiating criterion in the official uniform color like purple(紫衫), red(丹衫), red(緋衫), and green(綠衫) has been studied. The official rank had been classified by the color of the official uniform in the early Goryeo uniform regulation. The lower class had worn purple(紫衫). The purple wearing class had not been the government post but the official rank. Those who worked for the Palace had worn purple color since purple color represented the Imperial Palace on which TAI-IL(太一), that is, the highest one of gods dwelt. Those who had worn red(丹色) in the monumental inscription had worked for the job associated with the military service or Hanlim savant(翰林學士) of Kwangmun Academy(光文院) and Hanlim Academy(翰林元). Dan Seo(丹書) which recorded King's commands also means the monumental inscription. In the Goryeosa(高麗史), the military class had been only in Dan Sam(丹衫). That means those class worn Dan Sam(丹衫) could have been as the strong supportive class for the Dynasty. In the early Goryeo Dynasty, the four colored uniform regulation had followed the enforcing policy of the royal authority. It has been assumed that the uniform regulation had been used as a way of enrolling the new supporting class into the existing official system. Dan Sam(丹衫) which had been worn only in the early Goryeo can be seen as the special class for strengthening the royal authority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.270-279
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to make a basic resource in developing a design satisfying male consumers＇ fashion inclination by examining the features of the men＇s fashion style shown in the fashion collections. Collected were 1,291 photos relating to the suit style through the analysis on the men＇s fashion collections for 8 years(1995-2002). Representative men＇s fashion images are extracted from these photos, then figurative features were analyzed and typified according to image, and finally representative fashion styles were presented and its meaning was analyzed. Representative men＇s fashion images are Sophisticated, Casual, Elegant, Active, Natural, Classic, Romantic, Ethnic, Military, Marine, Colonial, and Avant-garde. With the subcategories such as detailed shape of jacket and trousers, the relationship of color between upper and lower clothes, type and organizing method of material quality, type and arranging method of pattern, and coordination, the extracted fashion images were analyzed the figurative features. After finding out the common and different features, four men＇s fashion styles were suggested. Formal style maintains the typical suit style and has the feature expressing the men＇s authority, tradition, and honor. It includes Sophisticated, Elegant. and Classic image. Casual St Sporty style has the feature that there is a change in the volume of suit by adding activity to the typical suit style. It includes Casual, Active, and Natural image. Uniformed style is that political and social environment such as war has an influence on the suit design. It includes Military, Marine, and Colonial image. Deformed style has the feature that it suggests new type instead of adhering to the typical suit design. It includes Ethnic, Romantic, and Avant-garde image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.12-23
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• 2008

This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.795-803
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• 2005

This paper discusses the late nineteenth-century Korean intellectuals' understanding of Japanese customs on the basis of Ki-Su Kim(金綺秀)'s records. Ki-Su Kim was conservative on his inspection and observation trip to Japan Even though he was loyal to Chinese philosophy, he expressed his great interest when he was reluctant to see the Western technology flowered in Japan because it is not mentioned in Confucianism(朱子學). However, he, like mordern scholars in the later period of the Chosun dynasty, took an objective view of the military matters, such as the military training of soldiers, weapons, and others. On the one hand, he appreciated the western garment in that it, fitting the human body perfectly, makes people comfortable. In the later period of the Chosun dynasty, the Koreans had a sense of their superiority to the Japanese and held them in contempt, which had been rooted in the Japanese invasion of Chosun in the year of Imjin(AD 1592). Even around AD 1870, the Koreans regarded the Japanese as a barbarian or a savage, even though the Japanese had attempted to modernize their country with the introduction of the Western civilization since the renovation of Meizi(明治).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.177-183
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• 1978

Byul-Gam is a low-ranking official who takes charge of sundry services in Yi-Dynasty court, and escorts his king when he make a honored going. Uniforms of Byul-Gam are noted for their gaiety. This study aims at inquiring into uniforms of Byul-Gam through historical records. The resultant findings are as follows: 1) Uniforms of Byul-Gam are divided into full dress and ordinary clothes. 2) The full dress has two kinds of style. One is Dan-Ryung, a kind of robe, clad together with Gun as a headdress. This robe is blue, Gun for king's Byul-Gam violet, and Gun for the Crown Prince's Byul-Gam blue. The other is a combination of yellow Cho-Rip and red Chup-Ri. This is a military uniform. 3) Ordinary dresses for Byul-Gam are orange Cho-Rip and red Jik-Ryung. Underwear in this case is Hyup-Joo-Um and Chup-Ri. Hyup-Joo-Um is a kind of robe. Inside it Korean style of jacket and slacks are usually clad. 4) As time passed, the uniform of Byul-Gam had been changed from Cheong-Dan-Ryung to Hong-Dan-Ryung, and Jik-Ryung had been shifted to a full dress. 5) Only five remains of Jik-Ryung for Byul-Gam have been handed down to us. The analysis of those indicate that they gradually became similar to Duru-Magi, a kind of Korean robe. This fact is common in the other transfiguring process of dresses of robe kind.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 2001

The purpose of this study how 'Afro-American resistance' is showed up in the fashion trough the study of rapper's fashion present in singing rap music. Rap music produced by the influence of black music. It have been the tool of expression of pain and sorrow of their lives and included their resistant spirit. So rapper's fashion expressed resistance. at this point I categorized the resistant feature of rapper's fashion at two types in terms of the extent of expression. Their are active resistance fashion and passive resistance fashion. Also each fashion types was classified in terms of style, material, color, accessories and so forth. Active fashion is possible to classify these three styles as follows. The first one is Afrocentic style that was raised from longing for Africa. The second one is Military style which contains an ling-time enduring spirit of resistance against the society. The last one is Hiphop style that violated the typical rule of dressing under the hiphop style culture. these kinds of active resistance are also classified as material like blue Jean showing black workers' resistance, color like black showing off superiority of 'black' and red, gold and green color expressing black people's resistance, and other accessories like chains, cross and so on. Passive resistance fashion has several variations according to the style. There are Jazz style, Uniform style and Hiphop style. It is also categorized as high-tech materials, white color which is the expression of desire for white and luxurious accessories showing off wealth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.88-99
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to observe the significance and symbolic meaning of fashion design which is combined with machines, and to develop excellent designs in aesthetic aspects. The method of this study analyzed the related documents and journal, fashion magazines. The results is as follows. The cyborg discourse and virtual human body in virtual world predict the existence of new human. In present times, up-to-date equipments such as wearable computer have begun to be built-in clothing based on technology, and these dress and ornaments influence on human's life gradually in practicality and ability. These equipments are divided as military affairs, medical treatment equipment, leisure, information access and communication, guard, and business assistance. And according to the kind of item, they are divided by headwear, clothing and accessory. The significance of clothing combined with machine is practical viewpoint, economical viewpoint and aesthetic viewpoint. And the symbolic meaning of these fashion combined machine with technology is dis-identity in digital society, dis-borderness between human and machine and the uncertainty of human being. Like this, the clothing which is combined with high-technology shapes its own unique and individual system. But, this must escape from the limit of medium system itself that is technology to become a future clothing for human, suggest new agenda about human and society, and confirm the human being's existence and identity continually.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.771-781
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• 2017

The helmet is an imperative personal protective equipment. This protective device must be able to guard the human head against potential risks. Helmets are classified according into the purpose of use; therefore, the required performance and specifications depend on the type of products. Military helmets are intended to protect the wearer's head from bullets and shrapnel. Generally, lightweight super fibers and fiber reinforced composite materials are used as helmet shell materials, and NIJ STD of U.S. Department of Justice is most widely used as international standard related to bulletproof helmets. Safety helmets are widely used for industrial application and sports leisure. In general, the performance of shock absorption must be ensured, and various lining systems are applied in material, design, and combination methods. Evaluation standards have also been classified and strictly controlled for each purpose; therefore, it is difficult to certify with the existing standards such as the recently developed convergence helmets. However, it is possible to launch the product through a separate national integrated certification procedure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.592-604
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• 2019

This study examines the stealth function of sputtered fabric with an infrared thermal imaging camera in terms of the thermal and infrared (IR) transmittance characteristics. Various base fabrics were selected, infrared imaging was performed, and infrared transmittance was measured. By infrared camera experiment it was found that the sample was concealed because it had a similar color to the surroundings when the aluminum layer was directed toward the outside. In addition, a comparison of the infrared thermographic image of the untreated sample and the sputtered sample in the laboratory showed that the difference in ${\Delta}E$ value ranged from 31 to 90.4 and demonstrated effective concealment. However, concealment was not observed in the case of the 3-layer (Nylon-Al-Nylon) model when a sputtered aluminum layer existed between two nylon layers. The direction of the sputtering layer did not affect the infrared transmittance in the infrared transmittance experiment. Therefore, it seems better to interpret the concealing effect in the infrared thermographic images by using thermal transfer theory rather than infrared transmittance theory. We believe that the results of this study will be applicable to developing high performance smart clothing and military uniforms.