• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.6-10
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• 2001

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.68-74
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• 1999

The Green function method is widely used for the analysis of waves in a harbor with a constant depth. In extending this method to a wave field over arbitrary depth, a generalized and convenient method is needed to obtain unit solutions for waves emerging from a point source. For this purpose, a parabolic wave equation is derived to approximate the mild-slope equation written in terms of polar coordinates. Usefulness of the equation obtained is examined through trial computations.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.399-408
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• 1999

Copeland’s(1985) hyperbolic mild-slope equation including diffraction refraction and reflection in the wave field is used as a governing equation in this study. The result of Maruyama & Kajima(1985) is used to calculate wave direction and that of Watanabe & Maruyama(1986) is used as a energy dissipation formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by the Leap-Frog scheme and compared with Watanabe & Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. This wave model is applied to a detached breakwater and compared with Watanabe and Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic model results to check the characteristics of reflected wave field around a detached breakwater. The distribution of wave height and we phase in front of a detached breakwater is more accurate than the Watanabe and Maruyama’s numerical results. The results from our wave model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. This model is applied to the Gamcheon harbor of pusan. the field observations were carried out at Pusan harbor wave station in 1986-1995 and the results were accepted as a design wave condition in this study. The wave height and wave period was measured by Dong-A university at one station in the Gamcheon harbor in 1996-1997 and used as a calibration criterion. The measured data were used as input data for the numerical simulation and also compared with simulated results. The numerical simulation shows a fairly good results which considering the effect of topographic characteristics and effect of narrow entrance due to two separated breakwaters in Gamcheon harbor. The wave distribution characteristics inside Gamcheon harbor is quite different with the offshore wave direction and wave period.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.22-30
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• 1989

Wave propagation is changed by the effect of shoaling, current-depth refraction and shelter-ing etc. To solve these problems. numerous models have been developed. In the present study, a coordinate system is proposed based on the wave ray equation with the wave number equation including diffraction effects . The governing equation for the study was derived from the mild slope wave equation in non-steady state, including current effects (Kirby, 1986a) and trans-formed into an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system on the basis of the wave ray equation. To obtain a numerical solution, an explicit finite difference scheme was used, and solved by the relaxation method. This model was tested for various cases: Firstly a submersed circular shoal and a constant unit depth. Secondly a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope, and finally a breakwater harbour with obliquely incident waves on a slope. The model was found to simulate the experimental results and other theoretical results in wave height and wave angle fairy well, and the applicability of the model around an arbitrary shaped coastal structure was also verified. To demonstrate the general usefullness of the present approach , the model is to be applied to a field situation with a complex bed topography.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.421-428
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1995.10a
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• pp.75-80
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• 1995

The model for the combined refraction and diffraction of water waves, the so-called mild-slope equation, was first developed by Berkhoff (1972) and has been studied by many coastal engineers because the model is able to consider the combined effect of refraction and diffraction of water waves and eliminate the problem of ray crossing which may happen in the previously developed ray theory. (omitted)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.30-36
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• 2001

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.63-70
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• 2003

Berkhoff(1972)는 해저 경사가 완만한 지형에서의 파랑 변형을 계산하는 완경사 방정식을 제안하였다. 이 방정식은 수식이 매우 간단하면서도 비교적 정확하게 파랑을 예측할 수 있어 현재까지도 해안공학 전반에 걸쳐 많이 적용되고 있다. 그러나 Berkhoff(1972)의 완경사 방정식은 계산이 비교적 번거로워 현재는 계산하기 편리한 포물형 완경사 방정식(Radder,1979) 또는 쌍곡선형 완경사 방정식(Copeland,1985) 등의 근사 모델을 사용하고 있다. 하지만, 이러한 근사모델은 지배방정식을 유도할 때 생기는 가정들에 의해 실제현장 적용성과 해의 정확성에는 언제나 일정한 한계가 있다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.29-33
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• 1993

이제까지 천해역에서의 파랑변형을 계산하는 여러가지 수치모형이 제안되어 있다. 그 가운데 Berkhoff(1972)가 유도한 완경사방정식을 수치계산이 쉽고, 쇄파감쇠 및 반사의 고려가 용이한 형태로 개량한 환산·경도(1985)의 시간의존 쌍곡선형 완경사방정식은 널리 이용되고 있다. 계산대상영역에 파가 비스듬하게 입사하는 경우, 외해측 경계뿐만 아니라, 파가 입사하는 측의 측방경계도 입사경계가 될 수 있다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.26-28
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• 1993

해안구조물의 설치나 해안환경 문제를 다룰때 가장 필수적인 것이 그 지역에서의 정확한 파랑자료이다. 파랑은 천해로 전파해 옴에 따라 수심 및 지형변화로 인한 회절 및 굴절을 겪으면서 변하게 되므로 복잡한 지형을 가진 해안에서의 정확한 파랑계산은 용이한 일이 아니다. 이러한 파랑변형에 대한 연구는 Berkhoff(1972)가 완경사방정식을 발표한 후 큰 진전을 보이게되는데 이로 인해 종래 개별적으로 다루던 굴절과 회절을 함께 취급할 수 있게 되고 파향선이 교차할때 생기는 불합리한 에너지의 집중(caustics)을 해결할 수 있게 되었다. (중략)