• Title/Summary/Keyword: Mild slope equation

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An Analysis of Wave Height Distribution in the Vicinity of Samcheon New-Harbor (삼천포 신항의 파고분포 해석)

  • Jang, Dae-Jeong;Ham, Gye-Un
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.24 no.1
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    • pp.39-46
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    • 2010
  • The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of harbor structures. However, it is not easy to acquire accurate computational results because these are affected by many factors concerned with wave transformation. Recently, numerical model tests, which are quicker and more economical than hydraulic model experiments, were carried out for the purpose of analyzing wave height distributions in harbors. This paper presents a numerical model that is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor. It is based on a time-dependent mild slope involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect, and reflection. In particular, arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. The proposed numerical model is applied to Samcheon new-harbor in order to investigate harbor calmness.

A Numerical Study on the Effectiveness of a Floating Breakwater in Wonjeon Port (부방파제를 이용한 원전항의 정온효과 수치해석)

  • Lee Jeong-Lyul;Song Museok
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.23-30
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    • 2005
  • A numerical scheme is proposed which is applicable to the evaluation of wave field containing floating structures, and the method is utilized to estimate the effect of the floating breakwaters to be installed in Wonjeon port near Masan. The model is based on the mild-slope equation which is widely accepted for the calculation of wave modulation near shores and an additional term is introduced to consider the wave scattering associated with the thin floating structures such as floating breakwaters. The tranquility in Wonjeon port with the floating breakwater in the east side is calculated and compared with the one with a bottom-fixed breakwater. The present method is believed to provide an efficient way of quantitative measurement of the performance of floating breakwaters.

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Effects of Wave Dissipation with Circular Cylinders (원형파일군에 의한 파랑제어 특성)

  • Lee, Seong-Dae;Kim, Seong-Deuk
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.27-33
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    • 2008
  • One of the central problems in astudy of the coastal surface wave environment is predicting the transformation of waves as they propagate toward the shore. The transformation is mainly due to the existence of obstacles, such as breakwaters and vertical cylinders. In general, the types of wave transformation can be classified as follows: wave diffraction, reflection, transmission, scattering, radiation, et al. This research dealtwith wave transmission and dissipation problems for two dimensional irregular waves and vertical circular cylinders. Using the unsteady mild slope equation, a numerical model was developed to calculate the reflection and transmission of regular waves from a multiple-row circular breakwater and vertical cylinders. In addition, hydraulic model experiments were conducted with different values for the properties between tire piles and the opening ratio (distances) between the rows of the breakwater. It was found that the transmission coefficients decreased with a decrease in the opening ratio and an increase in the rows of vertical cylinders. A comparison between the results of hydraulic and numerical experiments showed reasonable agreement.

Numerical Model Experiments of Wave Transformation for the Marine Structure Design (해양구조물 설계를 위한 파랑변형 수치모형실험)

  • Jang, Ho-Sik
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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    • v.16 no.3
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    • pp.440-447
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    • 2012
  • Numerical model experiments of wave transformation due to the reclamation and the construction of breakwater in case of 50 years design wave were performed using time dependent mild slope equation included shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. As waves propagate to the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by the bottom friction and wave breaking etc.. After the reclamation and the construction of 75 m length breakwater, wave height distributions in the lee of breakwater have the range of 29~128 cm. To make better the harbor tranquility the length of breakwater needs to extend more than 100 m. After the construction of breakwater, wave height in the lee of the structure was deduced over 80%.

Treatment of Inclined Boundaries in a Finite Element Model for the Mild-Slope Equation (완경사 방정식을 이용한 유한요소모형에서 경사경계의 처리)

  • Jung, Tae-Hwa;Ryu, Yong-Uk
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.84-88
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    • 2012
  • A numerical skill for effective treatment of inclined boundaries in a finite element method is introduced. A finite element method has been frequently used to simulate hydraulic phenomena in a coastal zone since it can be applied to irregular and complex geometry. In case elliptic partial equations are governing equations for a finite element model, however, there is a difficulty in treating boundary conditions properly for cases in which boundaries are vertically inclined. In this study, a method to treat such inclined boundaries using Bessel functions for a finite element method is introduced and compared with analytical solutions.

Numerical Simulation of Surge - Wave Combined Inundation at Mokpo North Harbor (목포 북항에서 풍파에 의한 해수범람의 수치 모의)

  • Lee, Jung Lyul;Kang, Ju Whan;Yoon, Jong Tae
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.28 no.3B
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    • pp.307-313
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    • 2008
  • Tidal amplification by construction of sea-dike and sea-walls had been detected not only near Mokpo North Harbor but also at Chungkye Bay which is connected with Mokpo North Harbor by a narrow channel. This brings about increase of tidal flat area and in particular increase of runup height and inundation area during storms. In this study, a simulation process is composed of wind wave generation model for large area and wave inundation model for small coastal zone. The nonlinear version of mild-slope equation is modified for simulating wind-driven surge and wave inundation at a small area. The models are applied to Chungkye Bay, and possible inundation features at Mokpo North Harbor are investigated.

Calculation of Wave Deformation and Wave Induced Current around an Underwater Shoal by Boussinesq Equation (Boussinesq 방정식을 이용한 수중 천퇴에서의 파랑변형 및 파랑류 계산)

  • Chun Insik;Seong Sangbong;Kim Guidong;Sim Jaeseol
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.202-212
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    • 2005
  • In the design of an of offshore structure located near an underwater shoal, the same amount of attention given to the wave height may have to be put to the wave induced current as well since some of the wave energy translates to the current. In the present study, two numerical models each based on the nonlinear Boussinesq equation and the linear mild slope equation are applied to calculate the wave deformation and secondly induced current around a shoal. The underwater shoal in Vincent and briggs' experiment (1989) is used here, and all non-breaking wave conditions of the experiment with various monochromatic and unidirectional or multidirectional spectral wave incidences are concerned. Both numerical models clearly showed wave induced currents symmetrically farmed along the centerline over the shoal. The calculated wave heights along a preset line also generally showed very nice agreements with the experimental values.

Inhomogeneous Helmholtz equation for Water Waves on Variable Depth (비균질 Helmholtz 방정식을 이용한 변동 수심에서의 파랑변형)

  • Kim, Hyo-Seob;Jang, Chang-Hwan
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.174-180
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    • 2010
  • The inhomogeneous Helmholtz equation is introduced for variable water depth and potential function and separation of variables are introduced for the derivation. Only harmonic wave motions are considered. The governing equation composed of the potential function for irrotational flow is directly applied to the still water level, and the inhomogeneous Helmholtz equation for variable water depth is obtained. By introducing the wave amplitude and wave phase gradient the governing equation with complex potential function is transformed into two equations of real variables. The transformed equations are the first and second-order ordinary differential equations, respectively, and can be solved in a forward marching manner when proper boundary values are supplied, i.e. the wave amplitude, the wave amplitude gradient, and the wave phase gradient at a side boundary. Simple spatially-centered finite difference numerical schemes are adopted to solve the present set of equations. The equation set is applied to two test cases, Booij’ inclined plane slope profile, and Bragg’ wavy bed profile. The present equations set is satisfactorily verified against other theories including the full linear equation, Massel's modified mild-slope equation, and Berkhoff's mild-slope equation etc.

Comparison of Parabolic Mild-Slope Equations in View of Wave Diffraction (회절현상의 관점에서 본 포물선형 완경사방정식의 비교)

  • 이해균;이길성;이창훈
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 1998
  • Among the phenomena of water-wave transformation, the wave diffraction is prominent for waves insidc the harbor. It is important to study how accurately the diffraction can be resolved by the numerical model. Three parabolic mild-slope equations, i.e., simple, wide-ang1e, three-parameter parabolic equations, are compared in view of the diffraction of water-waves around a semi-infinite breakwater. To avoid reflections at lateral boundaries, we apply the perfect boundary condition of Dalrymple and Martin (1992) in case of simple parabolic equation. The numerical results for the case of a semi-infinite breakwater are compared with the analytical solution of Penney and Price (1952). All the results are very accurate when waves attack the breakwater normally. When waves attack the breakwater obliquely, however, the simple parabolic equation yields the worst solution and the three-parameter parabolic equation yields the most accurate solution.

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Transformation of Regular Waves on Currents in Water of Slowly Varying Depth-Theoretical Study (흐름이 존재하는 완경사 해역에서의 파랑변형-이론적 고찰)

  • 채장원;정신택;엄대기;안한수
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.1-7
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    • 1989
  • Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.

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