• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.21-36
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• 2000

History confirms that the eastern style was reflected in various parts of the western culture including clothing. In this paper we show some evidence that the influence of India on the French clothing during the neo-classical period(1789-1820) was substantial. Among others, the use of muslin, kashmir shawl and banyan during the period is greatly emphasized. The muslin imported from India was used as the textile for the chemise mown, a typical clothing during the period. Indian muslin was used, because it was of better quality compared to the muslin manufactured in England and France and it was not expensive. The kashmir shawl imported from kashmir in India was also a popular item in Europe not only because it matched well with simple color of chemise gown, but because it expressed the tone of Greek and Roman. Banyan which was most popular clothing worn by men in 18th century Europe originally came from India, which goes back to the Kaftan clothing in the Central Asia. Banyan was an informal home style clothing different from the conventional tight men's wear. It is true that the muslin, kashmir shawl, and banyan also became fashion items throughout the 19th and 20th century to the English and other European people. However, we limited our attention to the influence of India on France because we think the French Revolution and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt are far more important factors when considering the influence of Indian culture on Europe.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to review changes of gender identity of men as a sexual role changes and their cognition on fashion and to analyze changes and features of their fashion required in the diversified era and suggest implications for future men's fashion design. To understand a correlation between a change of men's gender styles and fashion and aesthetic features and differences by gender style, this study analyzed significant brands of the men's design market. The results of this study are as followings. First, metrosexual and uebersexual were mixed in the 1990's and the 2000's. The ratio of uebersexual in the 1990's was higher as three times as metrosexual. On the other hand, the ratio of metrosexual in the 2000's was higher than uebersexual by about 3.5%. It implicates that there were significant changes in design of men's clothes between the 1990's and the 2000's. Second, aesthetic properties and differences of metrosexual and uebersexual obtained from the survey. Metrosexual fashion uses almost all details and has no limit in using materials and accessories. The other side, uebersexual fashion rarely has details. In conclusion, this study showed that the relationship between male and fashion on the social and cultural phenomena. which have been recognized that there is a low correlation, is being newly established as a sexual role changes by gender.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.639-650
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate whether characteristics of the perceiver make differences in impressions of clothing types in the situation of first impression formation. Questionnaire was used as major method of gathering data. A poll of 650 men h women between the ages of 20∼39 living in Daegu was taken by the author for this study. Factor analysis, cluster analysis, frequency, ANOVA-test and t-test were implemented with the SPSS-package. The characteristics of clothing types used in our experiments include: sexy, masculine, feminine, dramatic, elegant-classic and casual. The results are as follows; 1 . Men favored sexy clothes more than women, whereas women tended to like masculine clothes more than men. 2. Positive, open-minded men were accepting of masculine, feminine, dramatic and elegant-classic clothes, but gave unfavorable responses toward casual clothes. In contrast, positive open-minded women continued to show unfavorable impressions of sexy clothes. Attitude towards clothing affected the outlook towards clothing by the perceiver 3. Clothing-dependent/vain men favored sexy, dramatic and elegant-classic clothes, while clothing-indifferent men tended toward casual clothes. Furthermore, clothing-dependent/vain women were interested in the feminine style, but women in general continued to show negative responses toward sexy and dramatic clothes.

• 복식
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• 제50권8호
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• pp.177-198
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• 2000

The major purpose of this study is to obtain the evident and visual data about the changes of Korean dress with a socio-cultural context through dress depicted in the Korean films since the 1960s. For this purpose, after were Korean socio-cultural background including the history of Korean films and mass fashion trends reviewed, total fifteen Korean films by ten year were selected on the basis of contemporaneity popularity, and fashionability, and analyzed with the data reviewed before. And the results can be summarized as follows : Dress in the Korean films of the 1960s shows sporty casual took influenced by western style, with the popularity of young fashion and youth film. The typical styles are sac dress and mini skirt fur women, and suit with American silhouette for men. Unisex mode including slim T-shirts and blue jeans with European silhouette supt appears mainly in the Korean films of the 1970s, with the change of sex roles and mass fashion trend. Dress in the Korean films of the 1980s is characterized by bold silhouette and decorative details. with the boom of erotic metro-drama and luxurious fashion trend, such as padded jacket, X silhouette ensemble, brig look coat for women, and American style suit for men. Dress in the Korean films of the 1990s shows the rapid cycle of fashion with the increase of casual wear, reflecting the popularity of romantic comedy film and various socio-cultural circumstances. As a result, the current of dress depleted in the Korean films since the 1960s is summarized as the cycle of fashion accelerated, the similarity between men's and women's wear, and the increase of sporty casual wear. Also, dress in the films reflects effectively the socio-cultural context related to fashion except for especially emphasizing characters in films.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.15-28
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• 2010

This study was intended to present basic materials for the direction of product planning and marketing strategy to increase the market share of men's underwear. For this purpose, it attempted to classify the groups according to the benefit of pursuing men's underwear and analyze the differences in purchase behavior among the segmented groups. The specific purposes of the study were to investigate the purchase behavior of men's underwear, to segment the consumers into groups according to underwear benefits sought, to investigate the differences in purchase behavior among the groups, and to investigate the differences in demographics among the groups. The questionnaire was distributed to men aged the 20s to the 40s living in Seoul. A total of 297 questionnaires were used for the final analysis. As a result, the following findings were obtained. It was found that 84.8% of the respondents showed there was no favorite underwear brand. They showed the favorite color of translucent color, the favorite style of trunk and brief, the favorite post-processing of silver nano, deo processing, and the favorite material of charcoal. In purchasing men's underwear, the respondents showed a preference for simple image, and the discount store as the place of purchase. The results also showed that there were four groups of underwear benefits sought: sex appeal/individuality, comfort, practicality, and fashion/brand groups. In regard to the group differences, there were significant differences in underwear purchase motives, underwear preferences, store selection criteria, and demographics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.99-113
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• 2007

This study aims to investigate the concepts and characteristics of Metrosexual and Ubersexual image which are the recent fashion phenomena representing the lifestyles of comtemporary men, and to analyze the design of contemporary men's fashion based on the represented characteristics of these sexual images. To accomplish these ends, various related publications, articles and papers, divers serial publications, and numerous internet articles are collectively reviewed for theoretical studies, and design analysis are conducted for content analysis(style, color, material, detail, etc) using photo data taken from the collections from 2001 through 2006. The results of this study shows that recent appearance of Metrosexual and Ubersexual fashion image represents the change of aesthetic standards in the contemporary society. With the influence of sociocultural phenomena which allow the pursuit of individual personality, the contemporary men, instead of expressing the socialized sexual identity, came to acquire the freedom of sexual identity which represents their personal desires. As an expression of hmnan will to pursue unrestricted sensibility and aesthetic sense, these sexual phenomena of Metrosexual and Ubersexual will be reinterpreted and reappear in various forms as the social atmosphere and aesthetic standards changes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2001

Chunghahk-dong is located in a retired spot, Jiri Mountain and has been built up its won religion and culture without any exchange outside world. People in Chunghahk-dong believe in a religion called Genjungyutaosim. Forming a trinity on which mind is Taoism, body is Buddhism, and behavior is confucianism. These are the principle elements to form a village. They made their own unique cultural factor such as longhaired boys and girls, wearing traditional cloths and hat, a monastic life, folk mores and family rituals, and private school system. This shows a great deal of affection on their life style and organization and is closely connected with community and culture. Grasping a culture and behavior on clothing, it has propose to understand Chunghahk-dong properly according to this study. A method of study has a purpose to understand culture and clothing behavior precisely in Chunghahk-dong. I inquire ito clothing behavior with investigation and study of picture script. The results are as followed; People in Chunghahk-dong show unique clothing and hair style behavior based on Genjungyutao. First, men and women wear a white cloth called HanBok(Korean costume) and footwear made of rubber. Only men wear a blue vest. A grown up men wear a long coat when they go out. They are dressed in tractional cloth for a ceremonial occasion. The reason why they put on the HanBok(Korean costume) is a belief on our traditional cloth becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea becomes a standard dress in the future. They believe Korea become a leading country in the world. This clothing behavior is symbol of Genjungyutao and has a role of delivery system for expressing their split. Second, In sign of being a Genjungyutao men, they let their grow hair. Cutting hair is not to be a Genjungyutao men any more. There is few reason that people in Chunghahk-dong let grow their hair : First, because of importance in TanGun's ideology, they believe Korea is a first nation in the world and can't cut their hair which has grown from TanGun (The founding father of the Koran nation) Chosun traditionally. Second, Cutting their hair runs counter to the principle of nature. Third, They value their body for confucianism. They don't want to damage their body because of body from their parents. Boys and girls braid and tie up their hair and adult tie a topknot and a chignon. Wearing a YouGun(A horsehair skullcap) at home and Kat(A Korean top hat) when going out, they express as a Genjungyutao. Hemp cloth and synthetic fibers are main clothes. Also, they wear an improved HanBok(Korean costume) these days on influence outside.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.63-75
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• 2004

The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.