• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2006

Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.87-96
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• 2001

The purposes of this study is to supply information on the most common and generalized purchasing conditions of suits in China by surveying male customers from Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian, Tianjin, Harbin and Guangzhou with ages from 20's to 40's. Statistic data from the questionnaire was analyzed by SPSS 10.0 for windows and the analyzing method was processed by descriptive statistics, cross analysis and dispersed analysis and for verifying similarities, t-test and $\chi^2$-test were used. The results could be summarized as follows; First, Purchasing places for suits were stores specializing in men's wear, department stores and reasons for purchasing suits were 'For business' and 'Change of season'. Two, for purchasing information provider, television worked as the key source of providing purchasing information and outdoor advertisement, for main influence of purchasing, the consumers answered that they are the key decision makers and replied their wife or girlfriend's opinion as the answer. Three, for number of suits in possession, answered three suits followed by more than five suits and for the purchasing period, the consumers chose one suit per year or every 6month. Four, according to the questionnaire on prices, colors, fabrics and styles of suits they buy, the consumers pay between 1,000 and 1,999RMB per suit and for the colors, black, dark gray and deep blue. For the choice of fabrics, said pure wool. For the styles of the suits, answered single three buttons. Five, the result from a question on the level of satisfaction shows 'satisfied', 'average' and 'very satisfied' with the purchase.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1454-1465
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• 2011

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.15-19
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to determine the thermal characteristics of men's suits ensembles and their fabrics. For the study, 100% wool fabrics were woven with various fabric structure, fabric density and yam count and With the use of these, 12 men's suits were made with the same design. Physical characteristics that affect thermal transport properties, including drapery, cover factor; bulk density, keeping warmth ratio, vapor permeability, air permeability and porosity of the fabrics were measured. In addition, thermal resistance of men's suit ensembles, including Y-shirts, inner wear and socks was measured on the thermal manikin in the environmental chamber. The result of the study was as follows: 1. In terms of fabric structure, keeping warmth ratio of plain woven fabrics was higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics and also, vapor and air permeability and porosity of plain woven fabrics were higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics. 2. The result showed that thermal resistance of 12 ensembles were in the range of 0.77clo~0.97clo. 3. There was little correlation between woven condition such as, including structure, fabric density and yam count and thermal resistance of ensembles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.150-163
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• 2015

Due to desire for more variation from male consumers within the men's fashion market in Korea, there has been an ongoing development of departmentalization of fashion styles. The Generation-X man, in particular, is the most active member of our current day society, and will be the principal agent in the senior market from here on forth. Thus, this study categorized their preferred fashion styles, and will seek to analyze the behaviors related to the pursuit of clothing of the Generation-X man. The qualitative investigations of the Q-method as well as the quantitative investigation of the SPSS 12.0 were used in conjunction as the method of study. Additionally, images and types resulting from the preceding first-year study entitled "The Type and Characteristics of the Modern Men's Fashion Images" were utilized as part of the surveys. As a result of the Q-method, which was used to derive the preferred fashion styles of the Generation-X man, they were classified into three categories: the classic suit preferring 'conservative class type', the polished, comfortable style preferring 'modern sophisticated type', and the adventure and variety seeking 'uninhibited individualistic style'. After analyzing the factors which influence clothing preference behaviors of these men, a total of seven causes were drawn from the results, including: conservative indifference to fashion, others conscious pursuit of fashion, the aim to show off brand name products, high involvement in the aspect of design, pursuit of TPO, pursuit of self-image, and conformity to fashion. The elements that revealed differences in the behaviors in pursuing clothing within the preferred fashion style types of the Generation-X man included the conservative indifference to fashion, and others conscious pursuit of fashion, which therefore shows that rather than enjoying the fashion lifestyle, these men possess a more conservative disposition instead.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.181-195
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• 1992

The purposes of this study were to investigate 1) the effect of body exposure and color of a woman's suit on the perception of modesty, and 2) the effect of perceiver's sex and age on impression formed by the function of clothing variables. The instrument of this study consisted of a response scale and stimuli. Thirteen items of 7-point semantic differential scales were developed to measure the perceiver's impression on wearer's modesty. Stimuli were color pictures of a model wearing one of 8 types of suit constructed by a 2 $\times$ 2 $\times$ 2 factorial design. The manipulation of each level of the clothing variables were: color of the suit by black and red, leg exposure by varying skirt lengths to a Chanel-line and mini skirt, and neck exposure by shirt collar blouse and scarf. Two models, representing typical female college students living in Seoul, were selected to eliminate model effect. The sample include 384 subjects, consisting of 4 groups of male and female college students and middle aged men and women. Eight experimental groups were randomly assigned to one of eight stimuli based on between-subject design. One half of each group responded to model 1 and the other half to model 2 of same stimulus. Responses to the semantic differential scales were factor analyzed (pc model, Varimax rotation) to identify factors constructing impression of modesty. Two factors emerged regard­less of subgroups; Elegance and Extroversion factor. The first factor was found to be dominant, accounting for 60 percent of the total variance. The other accounted for just 11 percent. Multidimensional ANOVA (5-way, 3-way) was conducted to test the effect of the clothing variables against two factors identified from the factor analysis. Leg exposure was the most powerful variable affecting the impression of Elegance and Extroversion factor for all per. ceiver subgroups. Neck exposure had primary effect on the impression of Elegance, whereas it partially influenced that of Extroversion. Color of suit had only partial effect on the impression of Extroversion. Hypothesis I was partially supported from the findings above. The effect of perceiver's age and sex on impression by the function of clothing variables was tested by comparing the result between four subgroups. In forming an impression of the wearer's modesty, male college students were least affected by the manipulation of clothing variables, while middle aged males were affected most. In the female groups, there was no age difference and they fell between the male groups in the degree to which they were affected. Hypothesis II was supported only by age difference in two male groups, and by sex difference in two student groups.

• Korean Journal of Biological Psychiatry
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.77-83
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• 2012

Objectives : Although there have been studies that examine sex differences of the brain structures using magnetic resonance imaging, studies that specifically investigate cerebellar structural differences between men and women are scarce. The purpose of current study was to examine sex differences in structures of the cerebellum using cerebellar template and cerebellum analysis methods. Methods : Sixteen men and twenty women were included in the study. A MATLAB based program (MathWorks, Natick, MA, USA), Statistical Parametric Mapping 5 (SPM5) using the spatially unbiased infra-tentorial atlas template (SUIT) as the cerebellum template, was used to analyze the brain imaging data. Results : There was no significant difference in age between men (mean age=28.1) and women (mean age=27.2). Men showed higher gray matter density than women in two left cerebellar areas including the clusters in the lobules IV and V (a cluster located across the lobules IV and V), and the lobule VIIIb (lobules IV and V, t=4.75, p<0.001 ; lobule VIIIb, t=3.08, p=0.004). Conclusions : The current study found differences in cerebellar gray matter density between men and women. The current study holds its significance for applying the template specifically developed for the analysis of cerebellum.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.18-29
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• 2014

Modern male has displayed an increased desire to express their social influence and image, and the male fashion market has had to provide various styles and images to fill these needs. The current domestic menswear market, however, is unable to satisfy the needs of male consumers who have a need for diversity in a rapidly changing society; more segmented fashion images and styles are needed. The purposes of this study are to classify fashion images and to establish character of the types. This study was done by performing a literature review and a survey. This study proposed 10 categories of fashion style images. Men's fashion style is classified into the classic image, sophisticated image, urban casual image, chic modern image, mods modern image, basic casual image, ethnic image, avant-garde image, active & outdoor image, and street-kitsch image. In the case of the classic images, common in formal setting, men's formal wear is the main focus with the classic suit. The sophisticated image is that of a colorful formal wear seasoned with elegance. Urban casual image is contemporary image, and therefore is meant for city life wear. Chic and modern image conveys an urban image by seeking a simple and chic feel. Mods modern image is retro yet dandy, giving off a sense of youthfulness compared to the other classic images. Ethnic image expresses the exotic quality of folklore as the main representatives of the character casual wear. Avant garde image portrays strong character casual wear with oversized silhouettes or exaggerated details. Active & Outdoor image is leisure life wear conveying active, functional images. Street Kitsch image is men's street casual wear with graphic patterns such as pop art and graffiti. This study's significance lies in its presentation of fashion style data, which can be utilized in the design and marketing of fashion targeted to males.

• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.51-58
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• 2003

The first impression of people plays a crucial role in deciding personal image. Except for the eyes, the V zone of a suit attracts people's attention most. Therefore, a necktie has an instant and strong influence in delivering the image of a man. This research divided images of men into several factors based on necktie that plays an important role in expressing men's images. Futhermore, this research inquired into characteristics of necktie designs that can express men's images. And this research presented visually through surveys. As a result, men's images were divided into six factors of uniqueness, sociality, generosity, notability, activeness & vitality and reliability with two axes of attractiveness and capability. Afterwards, the characteristic of necktie designs suitable for each image was presented. Furthermore, the characteristic of necktie designs suitable for jobs classification was presented by relating each image to six job classifications. Applying these facts into necktie sales, consumers will be able to choose their neckties that can express proper images according to their tastes, situations and jobs. Furthermore, consumers will be able to establish better image for themselves.