• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.38 no.1
• /
• pp.73-86
• /
• 2014

Persimmon juice dye-printed fabrics with printing were used for a Galot one-piece dress. The Galot dress was assessed in comparison to a white undyed one-piece dress of the same design through a wearing test conducted in a climatic chamber with an air temperature of $30{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $50{\pm}5%$ R.H, and 0.2m/sec air movement on 4 healthy female subjects in their 20s. The subjects went through a 30-min stable period, a 30-min exercise of walking on a $5^{\circ}$ slope treadmill at 70m/min period, and a 20-min recovery period. In addition, a physiological reaction and subjective sensation were estimated. The results showed that significant differences were mostly observed from a sweating period that occurred during the latter half of the exercise. More specific results are as follows. First, skin temperature on the chest and mean skin temperature were significantly higher (p<.01) in rayon dyed sample dresses. Second, micro-humidity on the back showed a significant difference (p<.01). Both cotton and rayon persimmon juice dyed sample dresses produced lower microhumidity than their counterparts and as for cotton the difference occurred over the entire experimental period; however, it occurred after the middle of the exercise period for rayon. Third, the sweating rate on the back decreased in both cotton and rayon with persimmon juice dye but no significant difference was observed. Fourth, subjective three sensations revealed significant differences between cotton and rayon (p<.01), indicating that the subjects felt more cool, dryer and more comfortable in a cotton Galot. As described above, the analysis of physiological responses and the subjective sensation of undyed and dyed clothing shows the effect of persimmon juice dyeing. Persimmon juice dyeing also seemly increased air permeability, moisture regain and permeability facilitating body heat ventilation, as micro-humidity and sweat rate were lowered. However, this was not shown consistently in subjective responses on comfort especially when wearing rayon dresses.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.2 s.67
• /
• pp.284-298
• /
• 2007

Due to consumers' preferences for seeking a quality life and having more leisure time, comfortableness became a major criteria for selecting clothes for all age groups. This is why consumers' interests in knitwear increased recently. The purpose of this study is to analyze the knitwear consumption patterns such as style preferences, and consumer satisfaction with knitwear. Particularly, differences in age groups of consumers were analyzed. Data from 463 men and women participated in the study. Results indicated that consumers wear knits once or twice a week in average. After two to three years of consumption, they discard the knitwear. Among various apparel product categories, Consumers selected Cardigan to be the preferable knitwear product category. They preferred 100% cotton and achromatic or gray/brown color with solid fabrics. In general, consumers were most satisfied with colors and least satisfied with laundering of knitwear. Older consumers preferred knitwear to woven products, preferred pull-over style and valued feelings of softness and comfortableness when wearing knitwear. There were more differences in dissatisfaction factors than satisfaction factors according to the consumer age groups.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.1013-1019
• /
• 2015

As the interest in leisure and health increases, the domestic outdoor wear industry becomes bigger. The waterproofness of fabrics does not ensure the waterproofness of garments because of the stitch holes during the sewing process even with the seam sealing tapes. Thus the water leakage often becomes a problem during the end use. Still companies use fabrics waterproofness data for garments marketing because they are simple to run the test, less expensive than the whole garment testing, and easy to achieve the quality control. In this study the rain tower system for evaluating the waterproofness of garments has been developed and the waterproofness of the selected waterproof and breathable garments in the market were tested. The rain tower was consisted of rain tower room, rainfall forming system and measurement system. Two different levels of rainfall can be simulated with this system(100l/m²/hr and 450l/m²/hr). Jackets in the market have been tested at two different rainfall conditions. The temperature and humidity data inside jackets didn't provide much information on the waterproofness at severe rainfall condition(450l/m²/hr, 1 hour). However, water leakage was detected on the cotton undershirt inside jacket. 5 out of 8 jackets passed the normal rainfall condition(100l/m²/hr, 30 minutes). The newly developed rain tower system was able to evaluate the waterproofness of the jacket seams. It is recommended the further study on the detailed test conditions for the end use of the waterproof and breathable garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.8
• /
• pp.28-44
• /
• 2012

The aim of this research is to examine the tendency of national tastes reflected in global SPA brands based on the theories of Gans' taste culture and Bourdieu's cultural capital. In this study, the leading global SPA brands such as H&M, ZARA, GAP and UNIQLO can be considered as a representative taste culture as well as an icon of popular culture in the $21^{st}$ century global fashion and also the aesthetic taste of each brand differentiated from their national aesthetic values based on socio-cultural backgrounds. H&M represents fashionableness, practicality and environmental friendliness based on naturalism, democratic humanism, and functional practicality of Sweden. ZARA emerges as the most trend oriented brand as well as customer centered on the basis of cultural diversity, passion and glamorous artistic sensibility of Spain. GAP shows American iconic style, which is the functional sports casual wear, originated from American leisure culture and mass production. Lastly, UNIQLO represents high-tech functionalism and practical simplicity based on Japanese delicate workmanship and simple, concise lifestyle while relatively does not much follow the fashion forward trends. Consequently, the national taste has been proved as a solid foundation to identify each global brand. This should be the key component also applied to Korean global brands for developing their concepts and strategies more successfully based on our own national aesthetic taste.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.612-625
• /
• 2010

People have more expectations for arts and design and accordingly, various artworks were combined with fashion to meet the consumer needs. As people live a decent life, the development of leisure activities and industry has a much effect on apparel. With this phenomenon, a free and active casual look is making progress centering around the practical apparel, pursuing diversified efficiency irrespective of a season and considering sensibility not formality. In this study, paintings of Henri Matisse were analyzed in every respect and were applied in apparel design with diverse color arrangement and a motif originating in the phenomenon of modern fashion design which leads to the integration of arts and design. Painting image and color of Henri Matisse were used. Sportive casual and cultural casual was used in design as well. Originality of its color in the paintings which were used an a motif is coming from Gauguin and Gogh. Henri had influenced to the next generation with pursuit of violent color. The following conclusions were drawn from this study. First, the color of Henri Matisse's paintings has a strong contrast effect. It combines notable violent color with a simple yet decorative motif. Therefore color from Matisse's paintings suit for apparel of marked individuality with its free color arrangement. Second, free and active image in Henri Matisse's paintings is easy to express efficiency and popularity. It accords with the feature of casual wear. Third, through adding a flowing curved line in Henri Matisse's paintings to materials and applying various colors putting into a curved line image to a rib section, a decorative effect which goes with the whole shape is obtained. This study presents possibility of emergence of unique design using free color arrangement and motif from the image of paintings and aims development of modern fashion design in accordance with modern fashion giving importance to the difference and sensibility by integration of modern garments and artworks.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.163-174
• /
• 2018

Consumer and property evaluation of wetsuit materials were conducted to obtain useful data for developing competitive products that meet consumer expectations and improving industrial competitiveness. Data were collected through online surveys of 213 domestic consumers who have experienced wearing wetsuit among marine leisure activities. Five types of commercial wet suit materials by brand and four types of commercial wet suit materials with the same quality by thickness were collected. Then, their physical properties, salt water resistance and thermal insulation rate were evaluated and compared. As a result, the most commonly used wetsuit material is 3 to 5 mm thick, and the basic jersey material is bonded on both sides. As a processing for imparting functionality, processing for improving warmth and reducing surface resistance are most frequently used. Consumers often feel uncomfortable when wearing a wetsuit, such as wearing comfort, weight, ease of movement, stretchability, and clothing pressure, which are different from those of casual wear. Also, mechanical strength and warmth were considered to be the most important criteria for selection of wetsuit material for purchase or rental. The mechanical properties of brand A and B were better than those of brand C, D, and E. Resilience and thermal shrinkage were better in brand C, D, and E. On the other hand, there was no significant difference in the physical properties due to the difference in thickness of the material at the same quality. Also, it was found that the thicker the material, the more stable it is in the heat. Brand A and B had superior salt water resistance than brand C, D, and E. In the thermal insulation test, brand A and B showed better insulation characteristics than brand C, D, and E, but the types of bonded fabric and surface finishing of materials were thought to have affected. In comparison of the thickness, the thicker the materials, the better the salt resistance and the thermal insulation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.37
• /
• pp.253-273
• /
• 1998

The culture reflects the ideology of a particular period in time and such values change according to the needs and requests of that time which eventually becomes an important factorin forming the exterior. The clothing is part of a way that composes and expresses the inherent substance of society and culture. Also, the clothing itself manifests the artistic values and behavior of mankind as an external structure maintaining its place as a big part in culture. The purpose of this study are to elucidat the concept of naturalism, which is discussed in many facets in the modern era; I studied the concept as well as the history of naturalism in order to manifest the meaning of clothing in the context of culture and I explained the concept in terms of the modern era. On such ground, I explained the naturalism expressed through clothing and characterized the exter-nal form of clothing. Also, in order to know the stream of naturalism in the modern context, I referred to the Vogue magazine of the 90s, using Delong's ABC method. Naturalism, in the context of modern fashion is a way to express the nostalgia of nature's vi-ability and purity of ecology apart from the artificial and structural appearance that resulted form scientific enhancement and hence, the ecological crisis. Naturalism pursues the soft- ness and comfort of the natural silhouette, color and material of the human body and it can be said that naturalism emphasizes the mix-ture of three substances : human, nature and clothing. The naturalism can be characterized by the factors expressed in clothing as follows. First, the naturalism shown in the form it-self draws the beauty of the bodyline without any reduction nor exaggeration. Without any distorttion of the human bodyline it shown the curve as one moves along, using the soft material. Second, the naturalism shown in color most-ly uses the natural tone with added white color and other color low in intensity and value like the receded colors of the earth that could be compared to the beauty of ecru. Third, the naturalism shown in the material is thin, light and soft in texture. In order to bring out the most natural curve of the human body, the natural fiber becomes the main material, sometimes, using crude materials. Due to the lindustrial improvement, softness and elasticity is added to the natural fibers giving them an important role as materials. Fourth, the naturalism shown in textile depicts the real natural objects in life. According to my study, the personality of naturalism in modern clothing was shown to be most strong in material and then in the order of form, texture and textile. The material com-posed of the natural silhouette and natural fibers were used to make soft color. In form, Paul Poiret made appearance expressing the natural beauty of the human body without the corset ; it continued with the inner lining making the clothing hard but in the 90s, lining-less, extremely exposed clothes and knit wear is used to emphasize the natural beauty of the body. In color and textile, the tendency spok-en above is not as strong but in color, instead of high intensity or value, the usage of neutral colors with added white color or ecru color, ear-th tone is increasing. In textile, the usage of flowers as natural material is seen frequently. As a whole, naturalistic trend in the 90s is increasing and the modern fashion is breaking out from the artificial and architectural form and conforming to a form that can realize the natural beauty of the human body. And the natural color and textile that conforms to such ideas are being used to pursue the human oriented trend that has appeared due to the increase in usage of soft natural fiber. Nowadays, the idea of returning to nature, defying the artificiality, desiring the leisure and psychological abundance that can be explained as naturalistic way of thinking is necessitated in this modern era as long as humans coexist with nature, this tendency will continue in clothing.